Begur
Begur is a town on the coastline of the Costa Brava in Catalonia. The town is popular for its proximity to beaches, hidden coves, camping and food, as well as the Cuban festival Fira d'Indians in early September.
Understand
Begur sits on a hilltop promontory looking out to the Mediterranean on the Costa Brava in the region of Catalonia. It has a modest population of around 3,900 people (2018), including a large expat community, which swells noticeably in peak tourist season from July–August.
The Fira d'Indians festival marks the historical links between Begur and Cuba; in the 19th century, locals from Begur emigrated to the island and returned bringing their fortunes and elements of the culture back with them. Traces of this wealth and history can be observed in the distinctive Cuban architecture scattered throughout the town.
Get in
By plane
Girona airport is a 45-minute drive away from the town. There are regular budget flights available from the UK with Ryanair and Jet2 and with Ryanair to other European destinations several airlines although these are highly seasonal, and there are hardly any flights between November and March. There are more regular flights into Barcelona airport, a 2-hour drive away.
By public transport
There is a €9 train from Barcelona to Girona, and from there buses run to Begur town centre. The bus company SARFA have a regular service to the village from Estació del Nord bus station in Barcelona though it takes a good 2½ hours.
Get around
The town is largely walkable, albeit hilly closer to the castle. There is a bus service from the centre of the town down to some of the most popular beaches, Sa Riera, Sa Tuna and Aiguafreda which runs from mid-June to mid-September. A one-way trip costs €1 and takes about 10 minutes (October 2018).
See
- 1 Castle of Begur (Castell de Begur). is a good example of medieval remains. The castle was constructed in the 16th and 17th centuries.
- 2 House of Carmen Amaya (Mas d'en Pinc), Passeig Carmen Amaya. A beautiful farmhouse in a traditional Spanish style which once belonged to the great flamenco dancer Carmen Amaya. Much of the building, which now belongs to the local council, has now been converted to offices for the environmental department, with one room remaining a small but informative exhibition to Carmen Amaya. The people who work there apparently don't see all that many tourists and are more than happy to give interested visitors a short tour of the place. Free entry.
- 3 Cala de l'Illa Roja (in the northern part of Begur). Illa Roja is a nudist beach that borders the Racó Beach to the north and sa Riera Beach to the south. It consists of two sandy coves at the foot of a red rock cliff in the shape of an inverted number 3, which causes the beach to be in the shade in the afternoon.
Do
- Visit some of the many beaches around Begur by foot or by bus
- Take a walk along the coast from Sa Tuna to Sa Riera beach for beautiful views of the coast. A popular walk for locals, expats and tourists alike. This is a moderately difficult walk and is not suitable for flip flops or people with mobility issues. Bring water and hiking shoes or sneakers with good tread.
- Visit the town centre with its historical architecture, old main square and myriad small shops and market-stalls.
- Fira d'Indians festival. A celebration of Begur's Cuban influence, the whole town is transformed into a street party for several days in early September every year with crowds, music, dancing and pop-up stalls.
- Take a walk up to the castle at night. It's free, it's a short walk (10 minutes from the base) and the whole town can be seen from the top.
Hiking
The GR 92 long-distance walking route crosses the city.
Eat
There are a number of restaurants around Begur, many of which have English language menus to cater to expats and tourists.
- El Tapas de Begur. A small, friendly tapas bar in the main square, charging by the plate.
Drink
- 1 Bar Musical la Bodeguita del Medio, La Bodeguita Del Medio C, Pi i Rallò 1 Bjs, Sot (on the left leaving the main square towards the castle), ☏ +34 972 62 46 80, info@bodeguitabegur.com. M-Th Su 23:00-03:00, F Sa 23:00-03:30. Fantastic underground bar just off the main square with walls covered in signatures and doodles from patrons. A nice mix of locals and tourists. Strong Cuban theme and great music, locals are known to break into spontaneous dancing. Can be a little stuffy in the summer months but they do have air-con which goes some way to offset this. Their Mojito Cubano is highly recommended. €6.50 for a mojito.
- 2 Bar Coscorrones, Plaça Forgas, 2 (On the corner just up from Can Marc), ☏ +34 972 62 34 54. Some of the cheapest drinks in town, mostly frequented by friendly locals.
- 3 El Jardí de Can Marc, C/ de la Creu 10 (large white-walled garden on the corner before the main square), ☏ +34 972 62 31 19, info@canmarc.cat. Open every night in summer from 19:00. An open, social bar and garden with a range of drinks and traditional local food
Sleep
Budget
- 1 Hostal Ondina, Carretera de Aiguablava, km. 3, ☏ +34 618228727. Hostel. from €80.
Splurge
- 2 Parador de Aiguablava, Platja D'Aiguablava, ☏ +34 972622162. Hotel starts at €250.
Connect
As of Jan 2024, Begur and its approach highways have 4G from Vodafone, and 5G from MasMovil, Movistar and Orange.