Girona
Girona is the chief city of Província de Girona in Catalonia, northeast Spain. In Castilian Spanish it's called Gerona, but this page uses Catalan spellings. In 2023 the city had a population of 104,320, with about another 50,000 in the adjoining town of Salt.
The city is astride trade and pilgrimage routes from France into Spain, and pilgrimage traffic is as strong as ever: "But we're nowhere near Barcelona!" is the plaintive cry of sun-seekers who boarded a flight to a place that Ryanair called Barcelona-Girona. It's actually less than 100 km, the transfer bus will be along any minute, and for beach resorts along the Costa Brava, Girona is the closest airport. But it would be a mistake to rush away to those places and fail to explore this fascinating ancient city, with its cathedral, walls and higgledy-piggledy medieval streets ranged upon the hillside.
Understand
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Girona is at the confluence of the Ter, Onyar, Galligants and Güell rivers, so transport routes across Catalonia are focussed here. It was the Roman city of Gerunda, astride their cross-country road to Cádiz. It was captured by the Moors in 715 AD but reconquered by the Holy Roman Empire in 785, though it suffered a century of destructive further attacks. So like other northern towns, Girona doesn't have the Moorish heritage seen in Andalucia, which they held for another 700 years. It did however acquire a large Jewish population, until they were expelled from Spain in 1492. From the 17th to 19th centuries it was repeatedly assaulted from France, but this ended with the defeat of Napoleon. Its city walls were then taken down on the west side, but have been retained on the east side around Old Town (Barri Vell) and the university.
Town centre is along the Onyar river, with Old Town on the east bank; the Onyar then joins the larger Ter, swinging north towards the coast. C de Calderers is the main thoroughfare on this bank. New Town is west and south, a 19th-century grid with the majority of shops, hotels and restaurants, plus the railway and bus stations.
Girona is an all-year destination but in winter can suffer cold winds from the mountains, with temperatures sometimes below −5 °C (23 °F), and frequent rain. In summer temperatures often soar to 30–40 °C (86–104 °F), and citizens escape to the coast whenever they can.
Get in
[edit]By plane
[edit]1 Girona Airport (GRO IATA), ☏ +34 913 211000. Ryanair are the main operator, with year-round flights to/from some regional airports in the UK, France, Germany, Italy and Poland, as well as London Stansted and Marrakesh. It's a single terminal with the usual facilities, plenty big enough for its limited traffic. Ryanair, along with 6 other airlines also operate flights to more European destinations in the high season only. 
To town: Sagalés Bus 607 runs at irregular hours to meet the flights, taking 30 min to the bus station. Bus 602 from Barcelona Airport/Barcelona/Aeroport de Girona/Girona/Figures also stops here. It's the same ticket for either (€2.60 in 2024), buy from the kiosk by the bus stops.
By train
[edit]
Four high speed international trains per day run from Barcelona Sants (one starting from Madrid via Zaragoza), taking 40 min non-stop to Girona. They continue north to Figueres, Perpignan and Narbonne, then fan out to Paris, Lyon and Marseille. Reservations are compulsory.
AVE fast domestic trains run every 30 min from Barcelona Sants, taking 40 min non-stop to Girona and continuing to Figueres.
Rodalies are the regional trains. R11 runs hourly from Barcelona Sants taking 90 min, then continues north via Figueres and multiple other stops to Portbou and Cerbère across the border. Until the high speed line opened in 2010 this was the railway route from France (Salvador Dalí painted a typically surreal impression of the journey) and you can still come this way.
2 Girona railway station, Plaça Espanya. The main station hall is off C Barcelona beneath the elevated conventional tracks. This has a ticket office and machines, a cafe, newspaper shop and toilets but no luggage lockers, and taxi ranks both sides. The low anonymous building on its west flank has a cafe at ground level, the bus station one floor down and the high speed railway platforms three floors down. Only one ticket machine down here so buy in the main hall.
By bus
[edit]The bus station is underground within the high-speed part of the railway station. One overnight Flixbus runs from Barcelona to Girona, and continues to Béziers, Montpellier, Nîmes and Lyon - change there for Paris. Their buses from Madrid and further south don't stop in Girona.
Blablacar is a ride-share system from other cities.
Sagalés is the main bus line within Catalonia. Bus 602 runs three times a day from Barcelona El Prat Airport T1 and T2 to Barcelona bus station, Girona Airport and town (2 hr 30 min) and continues to Figueres.
Bus 601 runs from Blanes every hour or two, taking 70 minutes.
Bus e4 663 runs from Lloret de Mar every 30 min, taking 40 minutes.
By road
[edit]From France follow A9 / E15 south past Narbonne, Perpignan and Figueres.
From Barcelona follow E15 north.
Car hire is available at the airport and by the railway station.
Get around
[edit]
By foot
[edit]Walk both Old Town and New Town west of the river are compact and mostly pedestrianized. In Old Town, expect gradients, lumpy cobblestones and steep stairs.
Don't take a car into the old streets, you'll need a tin opener to get it out again.
By bus
[edit]Buses have nine local lines:
- L1 is north–south from Montjuïc to Devesa Park, railway & bus station, Migdia and Avellaneda.
- L2 is north–south from Josep Trueta Hospital to Devesa Park then as L1.
- L5 is north–south from Germans-Sabat to Devesa Park, Salt and Aiguaviva.
- L7 is east–west from Torre Gironella to Hospital Santa Caterina.
- L8 is from the railway & bus station, and L9 from Salt, and L11 from Güell, all heading south to the university Centre and Montilivi campuses.
- L10 is south from the railway & bus station to Fornells.
- L12 loops town from Josep Trueta Hospital to Av Ramon Folch and the cathedral to Sant Daniel.
By bicycle
[edit]There are many well-signed bicycle trails in and around the city. See "Buy" for the bike shop near Plaza de Catalunya.
Girocleta is the bike-share service, based at the bus station.
See
[edit]
- 1 Catedral de Girona (Cathedral of Saint Mary of Girona), Plaça de la Catedral, ☏ +34 972 427189. Nov-March M-Sa 10:00-16:30, Su 12:00-16:30; April–May & Sept Oct to 18:00, June-Aug to 19:00. The main entrance from C de la Força is up a long broad flight of stairs: approach from the side streets if you wish to avoid these. Construction began in the 11th century in Romanesque style, but most of the interior is Gothic from the 13th century, including the yawning 23m-wide nave. The west facade and approach stairs are 17th century Baroque. In the Treasury & Museum is the Tapestry of Creation from around 1100. Your ticket includes this and nearby Sant Feliu, and you can also include the art museum. 2 churches: Adult €7.50, student €5, child €1.50. Including the art museum: Adult €12, student €8, child €1.50.
- 2 Basílica de Sant Feliu, C Trasfigueres 4, ☏ +34 972 201407. M-Sa 10:00-18:00, Su 13:00-18:00. This was the city's principal church before the present cathedral. It was built from the 12th century until the 17th, so there's a mix of Romanesque, Gothic and Baroque. It has eight Roman and early Christian sarcophagi of the 3rd and 4th centuries, along with the Gothic tomb of Narcissus of Girona, an early bishop. Feliu himself is St Felix, born in Scillium (nowadays in Tunisia) and martyred in Girona in 304 AD. Same ticket as cathedral.
- 3 Museu d'Art, Pujada de la Catedral 12 (south flank of cathedral), ☏ +34 972 203834. Tu-Th 10:00-18:00, F-Su 10:00-14:00. Extensive art collection, mostly medieval / Renaissance, in the former episcopal palace next to the cathedral. Adult €6, conc €4, child free, or combi with cathedral.
- 4 Banys Arabs, C del Rei Ferran el Catòlic, ☏ +34 972 190969. M-Sa 10:00-18:00, Su 10:00-14:00. This bathhouse was built in Romanesque style in 1194, over 400 years after the Muslim rulers were ousted from the city; the "Arab" tag only stuck in the 19th century. They've been restored but you can't bathe. Adult €3, conc €2.
- Museu d'Història de Girona, C de la Força 27 (by foot of cathedral steps), ☏ +34 972 222229. Tu-Sa 10:30-17:30, Su 10:30-13:30. Large display of the city's history, housed in an 18th century convent.
- 5 Monestir de Sant Pere de Galligants (Archaeology Museum), C de Santa Llúcia 8, ☏ +34 972 202632. M-Sa 10:00-18:00, Su 10:00-14:00. 11th / 12th century Romanesque monastery with peaceful cloister. The small archaeology display is rather lost in this great space. Adult €7, conc €5.
- 6 Museu d'Història dels Jueus, C de la Força 8, ☏ +34 972 216761. Tu-Th 10:00-18:00, F-M 10:00-14:00. There was a large Jewish community in Girona for centuries until their persecution and ousting in 1492. This small but packed museum tells their story. Adult €4.
- Casa Masó, C de les Ballesteries 29 (riverbank west of Jewish Museum), ☏ +34 972 413989. Tu-Sa 11:30-17:30. Rafael Masó i Valentí (1880-1935) was an outstanding Catalan architect, part of the Noucentisme conservative reaction against Modernisme. He was born in this house (a knock-through of four riverfront properties) and redesigned it in 1912-19. Visit by pre-booked guided tour. Adult €10.
- 7 CaixaForum is an exhibition space at C dels Ciutadans 19.
- 8 Torre Gironella is referred to a "castle", but it's simply a watchtower at the highest point of the city walls, with a good view of town and gardens below.
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- City walls sweep round in an arc from the Faculty of Law to the south, Torre Gironella and Torre de Sant Domènec midway, and Monestir de Sant Pere de Galligants to the north. You can walk along them.
- 9 Pont de les Peixateries Velles spans the Onyar River, a metal lattice pedestrian bridge designed by Gustave Eiffel. It gives a good view of the houses huddled along it. In summer the river dries to a smelly trickle.
- 10 Plaça de la Independència is the focal point of New Town west of the river, lined by restaurants and bars.
- 11 Museu del Cinema, C de la Sèquia 1, ☏ +34 972 412777. Tu-Sa 10:00-18:00, Su 10:00-14:00. Tracing the history of cinema to the present day. Adult €7, conc €3.50, child free.
- Santa Susanna del Mercadal is a parish church on C de l'Obra opposite the Cinema Museum. It's Gothic from around 1600, but almost completely rebuilt in 1940.
- 12 Parc de la Devesa near the river confluence is wooded and crossed by cycle and walking paths.
Further out
[edit]- 13 Castell de Montjuïc is the crumbling remnants of a fortress, built from 1653 to keep the French at bay but no match for Napoleon, and abandoned after 1814. As in Barcelona, "Montjuïc" means "Hill of the Jews" and was their cemetery; their homes and businesses were on "The Call", C de la Força near the cathedral. After they were expelled in 1492 most of the tombstones were pilfered for masonry but several survive in museums. The cemetery was forgotten until the railway drilled through in 1862 and there's nothing to see of it now. The hill was declared a "green zone" in 1955 but became a squatters' shanty town, until 1971 when the squatters also were expelled and the area turned into residential suburbs. You'd only come up here for the view, take Bus L1.
- 14 Palau-Sacosta Castle
is a sturdy well-preserved fortress with two distinctive towers, mostly built from 1495. It's now a private mansion and you can't even see the exterior, as it's screened from the street by other buildings and woodland. - 15 Castell de Sant Miquel is a ruined bastion in the hills 5 km east of town, a pleasant hike.
- 16 Massís de les Gavarres is a broad eastern area of protected hill country, dotted with other ruins.
- 17 Gala Dalí Castle in Púbol was the quirky residence of Salvador Dalí and his wife Gala, a converted castle that's now a museum.
Do
[edit]
- Football: Girona FC. Play soccer in La Liga, Spain's top tier. Their Montilivi stadium, capacity 13,500, is 2 km south of the city centre.
- Golf: there are 3 pitch & putts around town. The nearest full courses are at Sant Feliu de Guíxols on the coast, as Golf Girona has closed down.
- Long distance bicycle routes crossing the city are the Pirinexus, Ruta del Carrilet d'Olot and Via Augusta.
- Catalan Way of St. James is one of several pilgrimage routes converging on Santiago de Compostela. The local sections are from Bàscara via Orriols, Viladasens, Cervià de Ter, Medinyà and Sarrià de Ter to Girona (33 km, 8 hours), then onward to Bescanó, St Julià Llor i Bonmatí, Anglès, La Cellera de Ter, El Pasteral and Amer (27 km, 8 hours).
- Semana Santa, Holy Week, is between Palm Sunday and Easter Sunday. There are many religious processions and ceremonies, and the city is booked up while it's on.
Buy
[edit]- Supermarkets are south of Old Town, where there's more chance of delivery vans getting in and out. Spar is at Ciutadans 15 near the Jewish Museum (open daily), and Novavende is at Hortes 18 near the Cinema Museum (M-Sa).
- Flea Market is on Saturday on the riverbank north side of Devesa Park.
- Eat Sleep Cycle, Carrer del Vern 3 (off Plaza de Catalunya), ☏ +34 972 649131. M-Th 09:00-14:00, 16:00-19:00, F 09:00-17:00. Friendly full-service bike & accessory sales, repairs and rental shop. They also organise cycling tours.
Eat
[edit]
- Plaça Independencia and Rambla de la Lliberitat by the cathedral are touristy, with bland overpriced food.
Budget
[edit]- König, C Calderers 16 (by Basilica de Sant Feliu), ☏ +34 972 225782. Daily 09:00-23:00. König is a fast-food chain, serving burger sandwiches and the like. This branch is the most central, with air-conditioned indoor tables on two floors and a courtyard. Other branches are at C Migdia 7 two blocks east of the railway station, Camí de la Font de l'Abat 23 in the north suburbs, and Plaça de la Independència west of the river.
- 1 Casal Independentista El Forn, Plaça de Sant Pere 5, ☏ +34 972 981607. W-F 18:00-02:00, Sa 12:00-00:00, Su 12:00-18:00. Original and delicious tapas or full meals.
- 8de7, C de les Hortes 10 (50 m west of "Eiffel" bridge), ☏ +34 972 104430. Tu-Sa 13:00-15:30, 21:00-23:00. Great variety of tapas. It has a small terrace outside and a small dining room within.
- Dolce Vita Girona, Plaça de la Independència 11, ☏ +34 872 081616. W-Su 12:30-16:00, 20:00-00:00. Italian restaurant, one of the more reliable places on main plaza.
- Rocambolesc, C Santa Clara 50 (west end of "Eiffel" bridge), ☏ +34 972 416667. Su-F 11:00-21:30. Ice cream parlour with other food.
- Llagurt, C Argenteria 3 (by east end of "Eiffel bridge"), ☏ +34 646 934537. M-F 15:00-21:00, Sa Su 11:00-21:00. Chain outlet for artisan and organic yogurts.
- 2 L'Antiga, Plaça del Vi 8, ☏ +34 972 216681. M 09:00-21:00, Tu-Sa 07:00-21:00. Trad cafe serving xocolata calenta (hot chocolate), coffee and meals.
- 3 Crepdequè, C Ballesteries 49, ☏ +34 972 217138. Daily 15:00-23:30. Serving traditional crêpes plus GF and lactose-free options.
- Cafetería 1900, C Obra 2 (by Cinema Museum and St Susanna), ☏ +34 972 487685. M-F 07:30-13:00, Sa 09:00-20:00. Coffees, teas, hot chocolates, pastries and waffles.
- Misky Wasi, C Figuerola 39 (block west of La Massana), ☏ +34 972 683236. M 13:00-16:00, W-Sa 13:00-16:00, 20:00-23:00, Su 13:00-17:00. Peruvian restaurant doing good ceviche and grilled chicken.
- La Rosaleda, Passeig de la Devesa 1 (in Devesa park), ☏ +34 972 177821. Tu-Su 09:00-18:00. Relaxing bistro in the southeast corner of Devesa park.
- 4 Bionbo, C del Carme 75, ☏ +34 972 299309, info@bionbo.com. Informal, fresh modern cuisine with Catalan overtones.
- 5 Cafeteria Canigó, C Francesc Ciurana 4, ☏ +34 972 205103. M-F 08:00-19:00, Sa 08:00-13:00. Generous portions of decent food and good wine.
- 6 B-12, Plaça del Vi, 11, ☏ +34 972013202, cafebar-b12@riseup.net. Bar/restaurant with veggie/vegan food and craft beer.
Mid-range
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- Mimolet, Carrer Pou Rodó 12 (on alley to Sant Feliu), ☏ +34 972 297973. Tu-Su 13:00-15:30, 20:00-22:30. Good food with a set menu and wines.
- 7 Vintages, C Cort-Reial 15, ☏ +34 972 206326. Daily 13:00-15:00, 20:00-22:00. Classic fare with seasonal dishes and a wide wine list.
- Zanpanzar, C Cort-Reial 10 (20 m east of Vintages), ☏ +34 972 212843. M Tu Th F 19:00-00:00, W 12:00-00:00, Sa Su 12:30-16:00, 19:00-00:00. Lively place for tapas and Basque cuisine.
- Taj Bangla is next door at Cort-Reial 6, open 12:00-16:00, 19:00-00:00.
- La Poma, C Cort-Reial 16 (30 m north of Vintages), ☏ +34 698 421131. Tu 20:00-22:30, W-Sa 13:00-15:00, 20:00-22:30, Su 13:00-15:30. Mixed reviews for this modern place.
- 8 Le Bistrot, Pujada de Sant Domenec 4, ☏ +34 972 218803. Daily 13:00-16:00, 19:30-00:00. Pleasant cafe with indoor and outdoor tables near the university, serving Catalan cuisine.
- Txalaka, C Bonastruc de Porta 4 (by park 100 m NE of Massana), ☏ +34 972 225975. Daily 13:00-16:00, 19:30-23:00. Popular Basque restaurant serving pintxos, similar to tapas.
Splurge
[edit]- 9 Divinum, C Albereda 7, ☏ +34 872 080218. High quality local cuisine. It's a small place, so you might need to book.
- Arròs i Peix, C Ciutadans 20 (next to CaixaForum), ☏ +34 972 606979. Daily 13:00-16:00, 20:00-23:00. Upmarket seafood chain. Mostly good reviews, a few found it overpriced theatre, picking out your fresh fish from the ice tray while juggling your glass of cava.
- 10 La Massana, C Bonastruc de Porta 10, ☏ +34 942 212820. Tu-Sa 13:00-14:30, 20:00-21:30. Wonderful modern Spanish food.
- 11 El Celler de Can Roca, Can Sunyer 48 (Bus L5), ☏ +34 972 222 157. Tu-Sa 12:30-21:30. Rave reviews for their modern Catalan cuisine. Reservations essential.
Drink
[edit]
1 La Garrina, 11 Carrer Bonaventura Carreras I Peralta, ☏ +34 648 199443. Bar specialising in natural / low intervention wine in a charming street. Indoor and outdoor seating.
- Cu-Cut! (Lapsus Cafe), Plaça Independència 10, ☏ +34 972 228525. Su-Th 19:00-02:00, F Sa 19:00-03:00. Good choice for late drinks on main plaza.
- River Cafè, C de la Barca 2 (by Sant Feliu), ☏ +34 972 228245. W Th 19:00-23:30, F Sa 12:00-02:00, Su 12:00-23:30. Cafe bar with decent food by the Basilica, sometimes has live music.
- Mckiernan's, Rambla de la Llibertat 32, ☏ +34 972 220141. Su, Tu-Th 17:00-00:00, F 17:00-02:00, Sa 13:00-02:00. Bustling friendly Irish chain pub with TV sport and decent food.
- Sunset Jazz Club, C Jaume Pons Martí 12, ☏ +34 872 080145. Daily 19:00-01:30. Live jazz and other music with strong cocktails.
- Lola Cafe, C Bonaventura Carreras i Peralta 7, ☏ +34 972 228824. W-Sa 23:00-03:00. Late spot for rumba and other live music, though it's often too crowded to dance.
- Wine: Girona is within Empordà DO (Denominación de Origen), which is subdivided into upper (Alt Empordà towards the French border) and lower (Baix Empordà towards the coast). Some two dozen grape varieties are cultivated, and the region also produces cava.
Sleep
[edit]Budget
[edit]- 1 Xanascat Alberg Cerverí, Carrer Dels Ciutadans 9, ☏ +34 972 218003, girona.xanascat@gencat.cat. Basic hostel with 4- and 10-bunk rooms.
Mid-range
[edit]
- 2 Bells Oficis, Germans Busquets 2, 2nd floor, ☏ +34 679 460457, info@bellsoficis.com. Small pension with friendly host. Double (room only) €60.
- 3 Pension Borràs, Travesía Auriga 6, ☏ +34 972 224008. Simple pension in a colourful alley. Double (room only) €55.
- 4 Ibis Girona Costa Brava, C Francesc Ferrer 16-18, ☏ +34 972 391538. Chain hotel, cleanliness erratic by Accor standards, and a 30 min walk to town. Double (room only) €60.
- 5 Pensió Viladomat, Ciutadans 5, ☏ +34 972 203176. Simple central guest house. B&B double €60.
Splurge
[edit]- 6 Hotel Bellavista, Pujada Polvorins 1, ☏ +34 872 080670. Pleasant spacious hotel on the hillside 1 km from town.
- 7 Hotel Carlemany, Plaça Miquel Santaló i Pavor 1, ☏ +34 972 211212. Modern value hotel near the station. B&B double €120.
- 8 Hotel Ciutat de Girona, Carrer Nord 2, ☏ +34 972 483038. Clean central hotel, some fittings in need of repair. B&B double $120.
- 9 Hotel Ultonia, Gran Via de Jaume I, 22, ☏ +34 972 203850. Smart central hotel. B&B double €110.
Stay safe
[edit]Take usual caution over traffic, care of valuables, and avoiding rowdy drunks.
Connect
[edit]As of Jan 2024, Girona and its approach highways have 5G from all Spanish carriers.
Go next
[edit]- Barcelona – An hour to the south by train and the capital of Catalonia with an endless list of things to see and do.
- Costa Brava – Rocky cliffs and a mix of pebble beaches and sandy beaches at Blanes, Cadaqués, and Tossa de Mar. Sant Feliu de Guíxols and L'Estartit are particularly easy to get to/from via bus from Girona's main bus station (under the train station).
- Girona Pyrenees – Monumental mountain towns, skiing resorts and la Garrotxa volcanoes.
| Routes through Girona |
| Olot ← | NE  SE |
→ Sant Feliu de Guíxols → Palamós |
| Sant Esteve d'en Bas-Olot ← Amer ← | W  E |
→ Bàscara → Figueres |