Banff is a small fishing port in Aberdeenshire in northeast Scotland. It stands on the west bank of the mouth of the River Deveron, with the village of Macduff on the east bank; in 2020 each had a population of about 4000. The main reason to visit is the scenic coastline, dotted with little coves and harbours, and for Duff House which is nowadays a branch of the National Galleries of Scotland.

Sir George Steven (1829-1921), founder president of the Canadian Pacific Railway, was born in Dufftown in Aberdeenshire, and named Banff, Alberta and Banff National Park after this Scottish town. The name "Banff" means a stream, or a holy woman, or a piglet... they've no idea frankly.

Get in

Duff House

Stagecoach Bus 35 runs from Aberdeen to Macduff and Banff, taking two hours, and continues to west to Portsoy and Elgin. It runs M-Sa every 30 min as far as Banff, with an hourly onward service to Elgin.

Watermill Bus 273 runs every two hours M-Sa between Banff, Macduff and Gardenstown. Bus 271 runs once M-F early morning from Fraserburgh.

Banff lost its railway in 1964. The nearest stations are Huntly and Keith but these lack onward public transport; Elgin is a better option. These stations are all on the line between Aberdeen and Inverness, with trains each way every two hours.

By road the usual approach from the south is via Aberdeen, reached by M90 / A90. The direct route is then A947 cross-country. A scenic coastal route is to stay on A90 to Fraserburgh then take A98 west to Banff.

You can also approach via Inverness: follow A96 Aberdeen road to Fochabers roundabout then A98 east to Banff.

Get around

Buses 35 and 273 link Banff and Macduff.

Taxi firms are B&G (+44 7710 589626) and Glendeveron (+44 7388 868894).

See

• Banff town centre has many attractive 18th- and 19th-century buildings.
• St Mary's Church on High Shore was built in 1790. It's set in the medieval graveyard of its predecessor.
• 1 Duff House, Banff AB45 3SX, ☏ +44 1261 818181. Apr-Oct: Th-Su 9:30AM-1PM, 2-5PM; Nov-Mar: F-Su 11AM-noon, 1-4PM. A magnificent house designed by William Adam in 1735, and now housing artwork from the National Galleries of Scotland. Morning visits are by guided tour, afternoon is free-flow. Adult £10, child £6, concessions £8. (updated Mar 2023)
• 2 Museum of Banff, High St, Banff AB45 1AE. Local history museum founded in 1828, housed in the library which was built in 1902. Exhibits include the burgh cross dating from the 1400s and a claymore from the early 1300s. (updated Mar 2023)
• 3 Macduff Marine Aquarium, 11 High Shore, Macduff AB44 1SL, ☏ +44 1261 455775. Apr-Oct: M-F 10AM-5PM, Sa Su 11AM-5PM; Nov-Mar: Sa-W 11AM-4PM. Small but absorbing display of Scottish marine life. Adult £8.10, conc £6.70, child £4.90. (updated Mar 2023)
• 4 Whitehills is another small fishing village 3 miles west of Banff. The old harbour and centre is attractive, pity about the modern sprawl around it.

Do

• 1 Banff Castle. A mansion house designed by architect John Adam, built in 1750, now used as a community arts venue. Its 12th-century predecessor was demolished and only a few scraps remain. (updated Mar 2023)
• Beaches: the sandy beach is Inverboyndie a mile west of Banff. East from Macduff is a series of little rocky coves and groynes.
• Golf: Duff House Royal GC is in the grounds of Duff House; white tees 6043 yards, par 68. Royal Tarlair GC is east side of Macduff, white tees 5897 yards, par 71.
• Cornhill Highland Games are held in May or June on Cornhill playing fields, 8 miles southwest of Banff. The next are Sa 1 June 2024.

Buy

Banff market cross

• 1 Co-op Food, Bridge Rd, Banff AB45 1HE. Daily 7AM-10PM. Near the river bridge so it's also reasonably handy for Macduff. (updated Apr 2020)
• 2 Tesco Metro, Carmelite St, Banff AB45 1AF. M-Sa 7AM-10PM, Su 10AM-6PM. Small supermarket. (updated Apr 2020)
• There's also a Scotmid on Duff St (B9026) at the south edge of Macduff, open daily 7AM-9PM.
• The Farmers Market is held last Saturday of the month 9AM-12:30PM in the Fishmarket, Macduff.

Eat

• Macduff has a cluster of fish & chips shops, and Knowes Hotel restaurant.
• Banff has more choice, including Lemon Grass, Indian Garden, and Ali's Kitchen.
• Kelpie Cafe is a fun place on Castle St in Banff, open Tu-F 10AM-4PM.

Drink

• In Banff are Ship Inn, Castle Bar, Aul Fife, Market Arms, Central Bar and Railway Inn.
• In Macduff is The Old Moray.
• Macduff Distillery produces malt whisky. No tours.

Sleep

Banff Castle

• 1 Banff Links Caravan Park, Inverboyndie, Banff AB45 2JJ, ☏ +44 1261 812228. Clean peaceful site on beach, open Apr-Dec. Tent £14, Tourer pitch £27. (updated Jan 2021)
• County Hotel, 32 High St, Banff AB45 1AE, ☏ +44 1261 815353. Georgian townhouse showing its age but a pleasant stay. B&B double £95. (updated Jan 2021)
• Carmelite House is a friendly B&B at 30 Low St.
• Trinity Manse is a B&B at 21 Castle St, B&B double £70.
• 2 Banff Springs Hotel, Golden Knowes Road, Banff AB45 2JE, ☏ +44 1261 812881. Slick comfy modern hotel with 36 rooms and restaurant. B&B double £80. (updated Jan 2021)
• 3 Fife Lodge Hotel, Sandyhill Rd, Banff AB45 1BE, ☏ +44 1261 812436. Comfy friendly place, good value for money. B&B double £100. (updated Jan 2021)
• 4 Knowes Hotel, 43 Market St, Macduff AB44 1LL, ☏ +44 1261 458000. Bright place with good restaurant in an 1870s schoolhouse. B&B double £95. (updated Jan 2021)

Connect

As of March 2023, Banff, Macduff and their approach roads have 4G from EE, O2 and Vodafone but no signal from Three. 5G has not reached this area.

Go next

• West to Portsoy, Lossiemouth and Elgin.
• East to Gardenstown and Fraserburgh.
• South to Methlick and Huntly for a collection of historic and prehistoric sights.

Routes through Banff

Cairngorms ← Keith (junction ) ←

SW  NE

→ ENDS AT between Portsoy and Banff