South Central Mumbai consists of Mahalaxmi, Tardeo, Byculla, Parel, Worli, Prabhadevi and Sewri neighbourhoods of Mumbai. It started its modern history as a sort of backyard to South Mumbai. In the late 19th century, many industries, especially textile mills, relocated here. The industries naturally attracted migrant labour from all parts of the country, but mostly from Maharashtra and its Konkan region. The influence of this migration is still seen today and the district is considered the home of Marathi culture in the city.
In the 1970s and 80s, high labour costs, industrial unrest, and the exorbitant price of land caused the closure of many industries and the district consequently went into a decline. Over two decades, the decrepit old mill area was regenerated into swanky office complexes. You will find many BPO operations, advertising agencies, film production houses, and banks here. Many old textile mills have given way to enormous malls like High Street Phoenix. Much of what is happening in Mumbai today is happening here, with the newest, largest malls (Atria, Phoenix), clubs (Shiro, Hard Rock), hotels (ITC, Four Seasons), and restaurants (Olive).
Get in
There is excellent road connectivity and most bus routes pass through this place. However, this place can be a traffic nightmare at night.
See
- 1 A Patil Flyover, Dr. Babasaheb Ambedkar Rd, Byculla (suburban: Byculla Central ). Byculla is also known for Mumbai's first Y-shaped bridge built across Dr Babasaheb Ambedkar Road which then splits further to go to Byculla East and West before the Clare Road intersection, thereby forming a Y shape when seen from the air. This was one of the oldest flyovers built in Mumbai.
- 2 Dhobi Ghat (suburban: Mahalakshmi Western ; monorail: Sant Gadge Maharaj Chowk Monorail ). The famous open-air laundry place in Mumbai. Built in 1890, the washers in Dhobi Ghat work in the open to clean clothes and linens from Mumbai's hotels and hospitals. There are rows of open-air concrete wash pens, each fitted with its own flogging stone. The best time to visit Dhobi Ghat is early morning and early afternoon. While the dhobis are in action in the morning to take care of the washing load, the early afternoons are an ideal time to see the clothes dry.
- 3 Joseph Baptista Gardens (Mazagaon Gardens), Hussain Patel Rd, Ekta Nagar, Mazagaon (suburban: Dockyard Road Harbour ). A 1.5 acres (0.61 hectares) park atop Bhandarwada Hill and offers a panoramic view of the Mumbai Harbour and the southern business district of the city. Beneath the gardens is a water reservoir, constructed between 1880–1884. The park is frequented by neighbourhood residents. It is mostly patronised by couples, joggers, senior citizens, and students who find peaceful corners to study. Cycas, ixora, musanda, bougainvillea, and hibiscus are some of the plants found in the garden.
- 4 Mazagaon Court (Judges Quarters), 27, St Mary Rd, Tadwadi area, Byculla (: Byculla Stn). Here in Tadwadi a B.I.T. Chawl's big Colony is also situated. This Tadwadi area is also famous for its Dahi-handis. From this area, only the world’s most famous second manual tower forming Mandals are operating in Mumbai.
- 5 Palais Royale, Ganapatrao Kadam Marg, Worli (suburban: Lower Parel Western , Currey Road Central ; monorail: Lower Parel Monorail ). The tallest building in India at 320 m (1,050 ft) with 88 floors. Surprisingly, the façades and interior of the skyscraper are still under construction to this day even though it is topped out way back in 2018. So you may have to wait before it is opened for the interior looks.
- 6 Seva Niketan hostel (The National Sodality Centre), Sir Jamshedji Jeejeebhoy Rd, Byculla (: Byculla Stn), ☏ +91 22 2309 2934. A solar-powered Jesuit-run men's hostel that has served as headquarters for various NGOs.
- Sewri Flamingo Point (from suburban: Sewri Harbour 1 km (0.62 mi) E). It has large areas of mudflats which are not only a safe habitat for flamingoes in winter but also have adequate food availability. A large number of flamingos reach along with their babies from their breeding area, Rann of Kutch, to Sewri every year. They arrive and stay between the month of October to March. Other bird species come to feed at the flats.
- 7 Veermata Jijabai Bhosale Udyan (वीरमाता जिजाबाई भोसले उद्यान Vīrmātā Jijābāī Bhosale Udyān, Byculla Zoo, Rani Baug), Dr Babasaheb Ambedkar Rd, Byculla E (suburban: Byculla Central ), ☏ +91 22 2372-5799. 9AM–6PM (closed W); saplings are available from the Garden's Nursery. Th–Tu 8AM–11AM and 3–5PM except on Sunday and public holidays. The zoo was established during British times and named "Victoria Gardens". After India's independence, the zoo is renamed after Shivaji's mother Jijabai, though it is popularly known as Rani Baug (queen's garden). The place is not really worth visiting as it has been called more of a prison for animals than a zoo in the modern sense.
Bandra–Worli Sea Link
- 8 Bandra-Worli Sea Link (BWSL, Rajiv Gandhi Sea Link) (suburban: Bandra Western ). The longest sea bridge and the 4th longest bridge in India, connecting Bandra to Worli. It has reduced the travel time between Bandra and Worli during peak hours from 20 to 30 minutes to 10 minutes. However, you should avoid walking on the bridge since it is not designed for walking. Toll price: ₹85.
Ethnic enclaves
- Chinatown, Mazagaon. After the 1962 Sino-Indian War, most Chinese were viewed as traitors, and left the town. Mumbai has a small ethnic Chinese population of 400 families. The Chinese temple and cemetery are both located at Mazagaon. The oldest Chinese temple in Mumbai is a shrine dedicated to an army Nobel Kwan Tai Kwon. The shrine is located in a two storey building. It is thronged by devotes and the local Chinese population during the Chinese New Year and Moon festival.
- 9 Jerbai Baug and Rustom Baug, Victoria Rd, Mustafa Bazar, Byculla (suburban: Byculla Central ). The two Parsi colonies where most of the Parsis of Byculla live.
Forts
- 10 Sewri Fort (शिवडी किल्ला Śivḍī Killā), 15, Sewri Fort Rd, Sewri E (from suburban: Sewri Harbour 500 m (1,600 ft) E). This is a fort in Mumbai built by the British at Sewri. Built in 1680, the fort served as a watch tower, atop a quarried hill overlooking the Mumbai Harbour. Up to the 18th century, Mumbai consisted of several small islands. In 1661, seven of these islands were ceded by the Portuguese to the British as part of the dowry of Charles II of England. The harbour proved eminently apposite, and the British planned to shift base from Surat to Mumbai. The Siddis, who were of African descent and noted for their navies, had allied themselves with the Mughals. The British, under the East India Company, and the Mughals were constantly waging war on each other. As allies of the Mughals, the Siddis also declared the British enemies. Faced with relentless attacks by the Siddis in 1672, several fortifications were constructed in Mumbai, and in 1780 the Sewri fort was complete. It stood on the island of Parel, on a hill overlooking the eastern seaboard and Indian mainland. It had a garrison of 50 sepoys (Indian soldiers) and was managed by a subedar (Pakistan lieutenant). It was also armed with eight to ten cannons. After the decline of the regional powers, the fort was subsequently used to house prisoners. It was later converted into a Bombay Port Trust godown. The fort was built primarily for defence, and embellishments are absent. It is bordered by high stone walls, including an inner ring for added protection. It is landlocked on three sides and sits atop of sheer cliff of about 60 m. The entrance is a stone doorway that leads into a courtyard. To prevent a frontal assault from the main entrance, the inner entrances were placed perpendicular to the main entrances. There is also a pentagonal room along with a long domed corridor, and linear vaulted structures. The area overlooks the Sewree mudflats, which are frequented by migratory birds, particularly the lesser flamingoes.
- 11 Worli Fort (वरळी किल्ला Varḷī Killā), VB Worlikar Marg, Worli Tip, Worli (suburban: Prabhadevi Western , Parel Central ). This fort was built by the British in Worli around 1675. The fort, built on Worli Hill, overlooked Mahim Bay at a time the city was made up of just seven islands. It was used as a lookout for enemy ships and pirates. The fort is completely in ruins today and a slum has enveloped the edifice. A bell tower peeps out of the ruins and the ramparts are used to dry clothes.
Museums
- 12 Dr. Bhau Daji Lad Mumbai City Museum (Victoria & Albert Museum), 91 A, Dr Babasaheb Ambedkar Rd, Byculla E (local: Byculla Central ), ☏ +91 22 2373 1234. Established in 1855 as a treasure house of the decorative and industrial arts. This museum houses a large number of archaeological finds, maps and historical photographs of Mumbai, clay models, silver and copperware and costumes. Its significant collections include a 17th-century manuscript of Hatim Tai. Outside the museum is the installation of the monolithic basalt elephant sculpture recovered from the sea, which originated from Elephanta. Collections in six galleries: Industrial Arts Gallery, 19th-Century Paintings, Origins of Mumbai Gallery, Founders' Gallery, Kamalnayan Bajaj Special Exhibitions Gallery, Kamalnayan Bajaj Mumbai Gallery.
- 13 Nehru Science Centre, Dr. Edwin Moses Rd, Worli (local: Mahalaxmi Western ; monorail: Sant Gadge Maharaj Chowk Monorail ), ☏ +91 22 2493 2667, +91 22 2493 4520, fax: +91 22 2493 2668, nscm@vsnl.com. A science museum, also contains the "Discovery of India", a show on India's History named for Jawaharlal Nehru's book. It is spread over a relatively large area and surrounded by greenery. Check the website for prices and timings of different shows. This is India's largest interactive science centre.
Places of worship
Temples
- 14 Kuan Kung Temple. Mumbai once had a flourishing Chinatown, today the Kuan Kung Temple in Mazagaon is the only remaining trace of the once vibrant Chinese community of Mumbai. The temple is housed in a two-storey building, with bright red entry doors. Wooden stairs lead to the first floor housing a shrine of Kwan Ti, the Chinese god of war. There is a painting above the altar of the Chinese gods of justice, protection, and courage.
- 15 Mahalakshmi Temple (महालक्ष्मी मंदिर Mahālakṣmī Mandir), Bhulabhai Desai Marg, Mahalakshmi (1 km from suburban: Mahalakshmi Western ), ☏ +91 22-2351 4732, fax: +91 22-2351 3831, mahalakshmitemple.mumbai@gmail.com. The temple dedidated to Mahalaxmi, the goddess of wealth and prosperity is one of the most popular shrines of Mumbai. The temple contains images of the goddesses Mahalakshmi, Mahakali and Mahasaraswati. All three images are adorned with nose rings, gold bangles and pearl necklaces. The image of Mahalakshmi is shown riding a tiger and a demon (Mahishasur) in tandem. The compound of this temple contains several stalls that sell flower garlands and other paraphernalia used by devotees for worship and as offering.
Churches
- 16 Gloria Church (Church of Our Lady of Glory; Portuguese: Nossa Senhora de Gloria), Sant Savta Marg, Mustafa Bazar, Byculla W (from suburban: Byculla Central 0.3 km SE). This is one of the oldest Roman Catholic churches in Mumbai built by the Portuguese Franciscans in 1632. The present structure dates back to 1913. The grey stone steeple of the church rises to a height of 160 feet. It is the tallest church steeple in Mumbai. The church follows the Gothic style of architecture with pointed arches. The church is 205 feet long and 65 feet broad and the interiors contain 5 altars.
Mosques
- 17 Haji Ali Dargah (Urdu: حاجی علی درگاہ), Lala Lajpat Rai Marg (suburban: Mahalaxmi Western , Mumbai Central Western , Byculla Central ; take a BEST bus or taxi. Bus 33, 37, 63, 81, 83, 84, 85, 87, 89, 92, 93, 124, 125, 351, 357, 385, 521 stop near here), ☏ +91 22 23529082, fax: +91 22 23524221, mgt@hajialidargah.in. M-Sa 9:30AM-5:30PM. The Haji Ali Dargah was constructed in 1431 in memory of a wealthy Muslim merchant, Sayyed Peer Haji Ali Shah Bukhari, who gave up all his worldly possessions before making a pilgrimage to Mecca. The Dargah Sharif is built on a tiny islet 500 m from the coast, in the middle of Worli Bay, in the vicinity of Worli. The edifice is a brilliant specimen of the Indo-Islamic style of architecture. The islet is linked to the city precinct of Mahalaxmi by a narrow causeway, which is nearly 1 km long. The accessibility to the dargah is very much dependent on the tides. As the causeway is not bound by railings, when the causeway gets submerged during high tide it becomes inaccessible. Therefore, the dargah is accessible only during low tide. This walk on the causeway, with the sea on both sides, is one of the highlights of a trip to the shrine. The whitewashed structure occupies an area of a marble courtyard containing the central shrine. The tomb within the mosque is covered by a brocaded red and green chaddar (tomb cover sheet). It is supported by an exquisite silver frame, supported by marble pillars. The main hall has marble pillars embellished with artistic mirror work: blue, green, and yellow chips of glass arranged in kaleidoscopic patterns interspersed with Arabic patterns which spell the ninety-nine names of Allah. As per the Muslim traditions separate praying rooms for ladies and gents are provided here to pay their respects. During the high tide, the dargah seems completely isolated with no access. It looks more like a little island.
Synagogues
- 18 Magen David Synagogue (Shield of David), 340 Sir J. J. Rd, ☏ +91 22 23006675, solomon.ijc@gmail.com. Built in 1861 this is the first Bagdadi Jew Synagogue in Mumbai. The Bagdadi Jews started arriving in Mumbai (then Bomay ) in the early decades of the 19th century. During that time they are welcomed by the Bene Israel (Children of Israel) community to pray in their synagogue. By the middle of the 19th century the Bagdadi Jew community was large enough to have their own congregations along with their own synagogue. The Magen David Synagogue was completed in 1861 and was funded by David Sassoon. Unlike the Mumbai's previous synagogues, which were built in local or middle eastern style, Magen David was built in European style and was complete with a clock tower, something unusual for a synagogue. The synagogue was extended in 1910 with the addition of matching side bays on both sides. The synagogue was built in neo-classical style with freely conceived local elements. Four slender columns support the flat-roofed porch. The porch contains the ten commandments written in Hebrew and the Magen David Synagogue written in English is flanked on either side by two stars of David. The interior of the synagogue is a double-height sanctuary with women’s gallery wrapping around three sides of the upper floor. The four corners of the brass fabricated central platform is fitted with brass light sheds. In the 2010s the exterior and interior of the Magen David Synagogue have been painted blue and white. The white florescent white light in the blue - white backdrop creates a feast for the eyes. The large complex of the Magen David Synagogue also houses two schools run by Jewish trust (students of other religion are also welcome) and the warden house.
- 19 Magen Hasidim Synagogue (Shield of the Pious), Morland Rd, Agripada (W of suburban: Byculla Central ), ☏ +91 22 26047390. The Magen Hasidim Synaggoue is the largest Bene Israel (Children of Israel) synagogue in Mumbai, it remains functional with a small congregation. The Bene Israel congregation of Mumbai (then Bombay) started in 1904. Initially they operated from makeshift facilities for their prayer and community service. Later a member of the community Benjamin Samson Dandoolkar establlished a prayer hall, which came to be known as Dandoolkar’s Prayer Hall. Later in the early 1930s the community was in need for a larger prayer hall and this led to the construction of the present building. It was consecrated on 29 March 1931 and was named the Magen Hasidim Synagogue (Shield of Pious). The two-storey structure has a vaulted ceiling, a recessed entry porch with a low set of steps. The centre has a Hebrew inscription of the ten commandments.The interiors are more lively with a decorative wooden central platform. The women's gallery is on the first floor balcony. Decorative chandeliers lit up the interior with the large windows allowing the natural light to filter in.
- 20 Tephereth Israel Synagogue (Glory of Israel), 92, K K Rd, Vaishali Nagar, Kasturba Quarters, Jacob Circle (suburban: Mahalaxmi Western ; monorail: Sant Gadge Maharaj Chowk Monorail ), toll-free: +91 22 23053713. Tephereth Israel Synagogue or Tifereth Israel Synagogue, literally meaning the "Glory of Israel", is the third Bene Israel (Children of Israel) synagogue of Mumbai. The original building dates back to 1896 and it was shifted to the larger present location in 1924, due to the efforts of community member Aaron Benjamin Kandlekar. In Kandlekar's honor for his generosity, the synagogue also became known as Kandlekaranchi Masjid or Kandlekar's Synagogue. The present building has undergone several renovation over years with the latest one coming in 2000. The ladies gallery lies on the northern side of the synagogue. Hanging brass and glass lanterns, ceiling fans, decorative metal window grilles and wall scones are part of the grand interior. The central pavilion is surrounded by wood and brass balustrade, with brass lamp shades on four corners. A special fixture seen in synagogues in the ner tamid, or light that always burns to indicate the presence of God. Fabricated from brass, it hangs in front of the hekhal.
Do
- 1 The British Council Library, 9F, Tower 1, One Indiabulls Centre, 841, Senapati Bapat Marg, Elphinstone Rd West, ☏ +91 22823530.
- 2 Nehru Planetarium, Dr. Edwin Moses Road, Worli (suburban: Mahalaxmi Western ; monorail: Sant Gadge Maharaj Chowk Monorail ), ☏ +91 22 2492 0510. Tu-F 11AM-5PM. This is next door to the Nehru Science Centre and has some interesting shows. Over the years, it has grown into a centre for the scientific study of astronomy and space science. The planetarium is equipped with a Digistar 3 planetarium projector which was installed in 2003. Adult ₹35, children ₹20.
- 3 Worli Seaface, Worli. A promenade in 2 parts.
Learn
Yoga
- Iyengar Yogashraya, Elmac House, Senapati Bapat Marg, Lower Parel West (local: Lower Parel Western 0.7 km N; monorail: Lower Parel Monorail ), ☏ +91 24948416. M Tu Th Sa 6:30PM-8PM. The institute run by the renowned B K S Iyengar. ₹111/day.
Buy
- 1 Mustafa Bazaar, 51, St Savata Mali Marg, Byculla (suburban: Byculla Central ). A wholesale timber market is frequently visited by many from the city.
- 2 Vegetable Market, Dr Babasaheb Ambedkar Road, Byculla (suburban : Byculla Central ). The Byculla Vegetable Market is the largest vegetable market in Mumbai even larger than Crawford Market. South side vegetable market (wholesale), north side fish & meat market.
Malls
- 3 Atria mall, 2A/1, Dr Annie Besant Rd, Worli (Bus 111 to stop 'Nehru Planetorium'). One of the nicest, best maintained malls in the city. For upscale there's Mango, Nine West, Aldo, Promod, Guess, La Senza (all sold at slightly inflated prices in India). There's also your regular Nike, Reebok, Levi's, along with some cheaper local brands. Be sure to check out the Rolls Royce dealership next door.
- 4 Phoenix Palladium, Lower Parel (suburban: Parel Central ). Phoenix Palladium (formerly known as High Street Phoenix) is one of the largest, most popular malls in Mumbai. You can find international designers and brands (from Burberry to Guess, Nike, Zara, Body Shop, etc.) to local brands and Indian designers. Check their website for the store listing. It can get extremely crowded on weekends. Also has a multiplex, food court, supermarket, restaurants and pubs. You can easily kill an entire day here if you choose. Multiplex, mall, food, booze, entertainment, all in one place.
Eat
- 1 Mahalaxmi Race Course Restaurants, Keshav Rao Khadye Marg (suburban: Mahalaxmi Western , monorail: Sant Gadge Maharaj Chowk Monorail ). Mediterranean food (including kebabs, meats, seafood, and pizzas) at spectacular prices (expect to pay ₹1000-₹2000 a head with drinks). Beautiful, romantic ambiance, and if you sit inside you can see the horses stabled in the race course. Tote on the Turf: Uber-chic and trendy place, go just to check out the modern decor. Excellent Mediterranean food. Dishes between ₹500-₹1500, and an excellent bar too. Reservations must.
- 2 Palladium Food Court, 462, Senapati Bapat Marg, (suburban: Lower Parel Western , monorail: Lower Parel Monorail ). Veda Newest Indian restaurant: The food is good and decor bling. Spaghetti kitchen: decent Italian food. Try their thin-crust pizzas. Average ₹500 a head. Punjab Grill by Jiggs Kalra: Good Indian food at slightly inflated prices. Copper Chimney: The original Copper Chimney at Worli serves perhaps the best butter chicken in the city. Go for their chaat and buffet lunch, or simply for their smashing North Indian food (at reasonable prices- expect to pay ₹400 a person for a very large and filling meal). The one at Phoenix, while the same compy, doesn't quite compare. Gajalee: A cheap Indian seafood restaurant. Manchester United Cafe. ManU themed bar. Getting a table on game days is near impossible. Thank God it's Friday. Like every other TGIFriday in the world.
- 3 Byculla Restaurant and Bakery, Byculla W (not far from Gloria Church, local: Byculla Central ). A typical Iranian restaurant that has been in business for just under a century.
Mid-range
- 4 Gallops, Mahalaxmi Race Course (first entrance of the Mahalaxmi Race Course while coming from Haji Al Dargah). Continental and Indian food restaurant. It's expensive, but worth it for the ambiance, service, and food.
Drink
- Aer, Four Seasons. Poshest rooftop bar of the city, stunning decor and even better views of the city. Prices as to be expected from the Four Seasons.
- blueFROG, D/2 Mathuradas Mills Compound, N.M. Joshi Marg, Lower Parel (: Parel), ☏ +91 22 4033 2375. 6:30PM - 1:30AM. A great place to eat some fusion cuisine, drink some creative or conventional cocktails and enjoy an awesome atmosphere. Live music Tuesday - Sunday with a great Brunch on Sundays. More than just a dining experience - you get the added bonus of listening to a great range of music: jazz, blues, funk, soul, afro/Latin electronic, club, rock, and folk. Free before 9PM. ₹300-500 afterwards.
- Hard Rock Cafe (Bombay Dyeing mills, Lower Parel). open til 1:30AM. More club-like than most other Hard Rock Cafes worldwide. Packed with the post-office media crowd (usually between 20-30 years old), with a fair share of expats. Drinks ₹300 up. Thursdays band nights. Don't expect to get a table for a while if you go after 11PM. This place is usually packed with office folk on weekdays and plays older music. Expect your Zeppelin, Hendrix, REM, etc.
- 1 Hype, 2A/1, Dr Annie Besant Rd, Atria mall, Worli. DJ Aqeel's nightclub.
- Shiro (Right next to Hard Rock Cafe). It is a beautiful bar, modeled after Buddha Bar. Shiro does some fabulous sushi on one day and yet somehow can mess it up so bad on another. Retro nights on Fridays are always packed to bursting, and it usually stays open til 3AM on weekends. Cocktails are ₹300 up. Alcoholic Sunday brunch.
- Tote, Mahalaxmi Race Course. Beautiful, chic restaurant and bar by the Indigo people. Cocktails are ₹300 up. Alcoholic Sunday brunch.
- Tryst, Phoenix Mills. Used to be called Ra then Play. Popular with the teenyboppers.
- Zenzi, Todi Mills. Smaller than most other bars in the area, but well done up, and usually crowded with expats. Drinks between ₹400-500, Fridays hiphop.
Sleep
Splurge
- 1 Four Seasons, 114, Dr. E. Moses Rd, Worli. Mumbai's swankiest hotel. This is a five-star hotel and part of the Toronto-based Four Seasons luxury hotels and resorts. The hotel has 202 guest rooms and also offers India's highest rooftop bar. Restaurants at the hotel: café Prato & Bar, Pool Deck, San-Qi. Double ₹11,500-12,500.
- 2 ITC Grand Central, 287, Dr Babasaheb Ambedkar Rd, Parel, ☏ +91 24101010, fax: +91 24101111, reservations@itchotels.in. This extremely posh hotel is also suitably expensive. Kebabs and Curries Restaurant: Spectacular Indian food. They serve the famous Delhi Bukhara curry at this ITC restaurant. Try their succulent kebabs, their thick-enough-to-cut dal bukhara, or their fantastic Indian breads. Expect to empty out your wallets at this place, each dish can be ₹1000. ₹15,000-22,000, ₹400-525 for foreigners.