Lomé is the capital and largest city of Togo. With a population of 837,000 (2011), the city is the economic and cultural center of the country. Around a quarter of the country's population lives here.

Understand

In 1897 Lomé became capital of the German colony Togo.

In 1975 the Lomé Convention was signed between the European Economic Community and 46 African, Caribbean and Pacific states.

Get in

The main border crossing from Ghana is Aflao, less than 2 km from the city centre. Visa on arrival is available at both airport and land border from Ghana for CFA 10,000 - 15,000 depending on your nationality and is good for one week. It can be extended for a month for no extra charge. As of January 2019, you can get a 3-month visa at the border for Ghana for 705 Ghana sedis (US$145).

By plane

Lomé-Tokoin Airport

• 1 Lomé–Tokoin International Airport (LFW  ^IATA also known as Gnassingbé Eyadéma International Airport). The international airport has nonstop flights from cities in Africa, Europe, and North America. For North American flights, Ethiopian Airlines has flights from Newark, New York (JFK), and Washington (Dulles). For European flights, Brussells Airlines flies from Brussels, and Air France has flights from Paris (de Gaulle). For African flights, Ethiopian Airlines flies from Addis Ababa; Royal Air Maroc has flights from Casablanca; Air Côte d'Ivoire has flights from Abidjan; Air Burkina flies from Cotonou and Ouagadougou; and Ceiba Intercontinental Airlines flies from Malabo. In addition, regional carrier ASKY Airlines connects Lomé with many West African and Central African cities, including Abidjan, Abuja, Accra, Bamako, Bangui, Banjul, Bissau, Brazzaville, Conakry, Cotonou, Dakar (Diass), Douala, Freetown, Kinshasa (N'Djili), Lagos, Libreville, Monrovia (Roberts), N'Djamena, Niamey, Ouagadougou, Pointe-Noire, Praia, São Tomé, and Yaoundé.  

Get around

Motos are plentiful throughout the capital, and a good distance on a moto will cost you CFA 300. Taxis can be rented from around CFA 500, with CFA 2000 getting you basically anywhere in town. There are route taxis, costing normally CFA 200-400, but if you are visiting they are difficult to figure out and only ever really used by local folks.

There are rental car agencies downtown, but if you are just coming for a few days motos are your best option.

The beach road runs directly beside the ocean from Ghana to Benin. The Boulevard Circulaire (le 13 Janvier) acts as a main artery through downtown Lomé, a hemisphere that encloses the Marche and Government buildings. It starts at the beach in Kodjoviakope and wraps around to the beach in Bea.

See

• 1 Independence Monument (Monument de L'independence) (across from the National Museum and Hotel 2 Fervier (tallest building in Lome)). Commemorates Togo's independence from France on 27 April 1960, with a human silhouette carved within it. (updated Dec 2020)
• 2 Sacred Heart Cathedral (Cathédrale du Sacré-Cœur de Lomé) (next to the Grand Marche), ☏ +228 22212273. The iconic cathedral of Lome that was built in 1902 and where Pope John Paul II celebrated mass in 1985. (updated Dec 2020)
• 3 Governor's Palace (Les Palais des Gouverneurs), ☏ +228 96278332. Tu-Su 10:00-17:00. This historic landmark built during German colonization in 1905 includes a botanic garden and art and cultural exhibits, along with great views of the Gulf of Guinea. (updated Dec 2020)

Museums

• 4 Togo National Museum (Musée national du Togo), ☏ +228 22217140. Housed in the Palais du Congrès (National Assembly) complex, this museum contains collections, jewellery, musical instruments, dolls, pottery, weapons and many other objects showing the arts and traditions of Togo. Entrance CFA 1500. (updated Dec 2020)
• 5 Musée International du Golfe de Guinée (African historical item museum), 1603 Boulevard du Mono (next to the Hotel KRIMAS east of the Grand Marche), ☏ +22893026080. M-Sa 08:00-17:00. A small museum housing a quite large collection of authentic mainly West African historical items, such as masks (even from the 14th century), wooden chairs, funeral ceremonial items such as stretchers and chests and similar. A bit off the city centre, on the beach but worth a detour if you have the time. May have been renamed Musee International Art d'Afrique. CFA 3000. 

Do

Afternoon near the harbour of Lomé in 2013

Enjoy beaches (but do take care for your safety), there are so many, such as:

• 1 Marcelo Beach (a few km east of Lome center), ☏ +22893686868. Bar and beach scene with palapas. Most likely an admission fee. (updated Jul 2020)
• 2 Royal Beach Lome, ☏ +22893239317. Another bar/beach type setting that may or may not have an admission fee. (updated Jul 2020)

Closer to the center of town are Lake East and Lake West which might be somewhat interesting for walking along.

• 3 Lac Est. (updated Jul 2020)

Buy

Lomé's biggest attractions are its markets.

The 1 Grand Market has a large 3-storey hall. It sells everything: red peppers, green lemons, dried fish, combs, travel bags, traditional medicinal remedies, and more. On the first floor is the Nana Benz, which is noted for its clothing.

The smaller and more specialized 2 Fetish Market (CFA 3000 entrance fee; CFA 2000 if taking photos) sells voodoo fetishes, gongons, and gris-gris.

There is also a souvenir market 3 Centre Artisinale. It sells wooden carvings, clay pots, authentic fabrics, local paintings, and African clothing. Most of them are made on spot and of great value. As always make sure to bargain.

Eat

Local street food is plentiful, and a large plate of rice or pate costs 200CFA.

Lebanese restaurants are peppered throughout Lomé, with the best being in Kodjoviakope and wrapping around with the Boulevard. Recommended are Al Mohatas by the Route de Kpalime and Al Sultan's in Kodjoviakope. Most plates cost CFA 1,000-2,000.

There are two Chinese restaurants, one in Kodjoviakope, the other in Asigame, down the street from the Togocel main offices.

• 1 Le Galion, Rue Camomille, ☏ +228 22 22 00 30. French-owned hotel near the beach in Kodjoviakope which has an excellent restaurant serving omelettes, steaks, spaghetti, salads, deserts, etc. Mains cost CFA 3,000-5,000 and they have a set three-course menu for CFA 6,500. 
• 2 Le Caliendi - Café Bar Restaurant, 1097 Ave de Calais, ☏ +228 91 48 48 41. Local flavors. 
• 3 Alt München, Boulevard Du Mono (near the roundabout at the freeport.), ☏ +228 22 276321. Munich cuisine, but a little bit expensive. 
• 4 7 Spice, intersection of Rue de I'OCAM and Ru Ahepe, ☏ +228 91 72 11 11. Hindustan cuisine. 
• 5 TBB Best Burger, Rue de l'Entente, ☏ +228 90 41 81 89. Burgers and milkshakes. 

For a classy experience, you could try the Akwaba Pool Bar and Grill at the Hotel 2 Fevrier.

• 6 Bar La Fierté Bar & Resto (Bar La Fierté) (in Agoe anomé across from the Hôtel Maison Blanche), ☏ +22896269191, barlafierteagoe@gmail.com. 09:00-23:00. 0. (updated Nov 2022)

Drink

Lomé really comes alive at night, the local Loméians dressing to the nines and going out to the numerous bars and discothèques. There are many western style dance clubs downtown. Two of the best (and most expensive) are Privilege, attached to the hotel Palm Beach and 7Clash, in Dekon on the Boulevard.

For a more relaxed time, check out the beach close to the border with Ghana - seating is plentiful and, if you're lucky, the Castle Milk Stouts are pretty cold. Be sure to get off of the beach soon after nightfall, as it is easily the most dangerous part of the city.

Local drinks can be found if you dig a little deeper. The local brew of choice is Tchouk, locally brewed millet beer. A calabash full at a tchouk-stand costs CFA 100 in the city. Other drinks are Deha - palm wine, and Sodabe - Togolese bathtub hooch - grain liquor that burns going down and coming back up. Be wary, it is only for the truly initiated.

Sleep

Decent hotels (as in there is a bed, sink, and shower) are in northern Lomé and cost about CFA 15,000 - 16,000. Hotels are common the closer you get to the beach, the most expensive being the 2 Fevrier and Hotel Sarakawa, on the beach road. Amenities are very accommodating, but they are incredibly expensive for Lomé starting at CFA 100,000 per night.

There are a few nice hotels with fan/air-com in Kodjoviakope and surrounding areas that will run you CFA 7,000-15,000. Check out My Diana's, and for the budget traveller, ask for Mammy's, down the road from the Angolan Embassy (CFA 3,500 per room, rooms fit 2-3).

Budget

• 1 Auberge Le Galion. Double rooms with ensuite bathroom. Walking distance to the Aflao border crossing. Safe neighbourhood, nice relaxed atmosphere with occational live music. Popular with expats. CFA 7000-15000 (fan/air-con). (updated Jan 2019)
• 2 Hôtel Napoléon Lagune / Restaurant / Bar, 01 rue 20 bkp, ☏ +22822270732. Relaxed garden-like setting with a pool and restaurant right next to Lac Est (Lake East). Has nice decor. Some have complained about mosquitoes and TV not working, etc. Seems affordable at around $28/night. (updated Jul 2020)
• 3 Hotel Aurore / Restaurant / Bar, Rue Dzidzedze (anciennement rue ALU) bp60178, ☏ +22822210517. Close to beach with restaurant hot tub, attractive patio/bar and garden setting. Rather basic rooms but very budget priced ~YS$18/night. (updated Jul 2020)

Mid-range

• 4 Hôtel Résidence Océane, 42-44, Rue de la Gare, ☏ +228 90 05 71 29. (updated Dec 2016)
• 5 Hotel Le Benin, Avenue du Général de Gaulle, ☏ +228 22 212485. French run and the food is excellent. (updated Jan 2019)
• 6 ONOMO Hotel Lomé, Boulevard Du Mono, ☏ +22822536300. Dependable contemporary hotel chain location with buffet breakfast, electronic door locks, pool, allows pets, and, best of all, directly across from the beach. (updated Jul 2020)

Splurge

• 7 Hotel 2 Fevrier, Place de L'indépendence, ☏ +228 22 23 86 00. Luxury hotel and the highest building in the country. (updated Dec 2020)

Stay safe

The beaches and surrounding areas are known for frequent muggings, especially at night. Don’t wander around on your own at night on the beach unless there are plenty of people around.

Connect

Lomé has Internet cafés, and they are cheap. You buy access by the hour (around a couple US dollars an hour), but most of the cafés feature very slow computers and Internet connection speeds.

If you are staying in Kodjoviakope you can use your Ghana cell card, it will work perfectly.

Cope

Embassies

• France, Rue de la Marina Quartier Administratif - BP 337. Lomé, ☏ +22822234640. 
• Germany, Boulevard de la République, ☏ +22822233232. M-F 09:00-12:00 
• British Honorary Consulate, Rue de Canaris, Be Château, Lomé, ☏ +22822222714, fax: +228274207. 
• United States, Boulevard Eyadema, ☏ +22822615470, fax: +2282615501. M-Th 07:30-17:00, F 07:30-12:30. 
• Egypt, ☏ +22822262443, fax: +2282261012.