Bolivar Peninsula
Bolivar Peninsula is a narrow strip of sand, 28 mi (45 km) long, separating Galveston Bay from the Gulf of Mexico just east of Galveston, Texas. In places, the peninsula is as little as 1,000 meters in width. The peninsula is sparsely populated with three very small but not insignificant towns, Port Bolivar, Crystal Beach, and High Island. About 2,800 people (2020) live on the Bolivar Peninsula.
Understand
[edit]The Bolivar Peninsula is a fragile coastal landscape on which wise people do not settle. The point was hammered home to long-term Bolivar residents in 2008 when Hurricane Ike wiped most of the local communities off the map. Miles of flattened beach homes and RV communities were left as little more than rubble strewn across the sand. A few hardy souls have since re-built, while most migrated to safer, drier inland locations. Newcomers have snapped up empty beach properties, often building million-dollar "castles in the sand", proving that just because you're rich doesn't mean you're smart. Lightning may not strike the same place twice, but hurricanes often do.
Get in
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By boat
[edit]The Texas Department of Transportation operates a free ferry service between Galveston and the Bolivar Peninsula. Most people cross with their cars, though walk-on passengers are allowed. The Ferry Terminal in Galveston is at 1000 Ferry Road. Bolivar Ferry schedule The Bolivar ferry landing is the terminus of State Highway 87, which takes you from Port Bolivar across the peninsula to High Island. During winter months, you may wait up to a half hour for a ferry because only a couple ferries will be operating. During the summer vacation season, lines may be longer, but more ferries will be in service with departures as quick as cars can get unloaded and reloaded.
- 1 Bolivar Ferry, 1000 Ferry Rd. 24 hours, 365 days/year except in cases of public emergency. Docks where ferry between Galveston and Port Bolivar loads and unloads.
By car
[edit]From Houston, head east on Interstate 10 to Winnie, take exit 828 (Texas state highway 73), then turn right on Texas state highway 124 towards High Island / Bolivar Peninsula. High Island is the easternmost point on the Bolivar Peninsula and is about 10 miles south of I-10.
Get around
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You'll want your own car to get around the Bolivar Peninsula, either that or you're going to be stuck within a few blocks of the Port Bolivar ferry landing. Bikes could be a good way to get around, and Fort Travis is close enough to the ferry landing to make for a nice seaside ride.
See
[edit]- 1 Fort Travis Park, 900 TX SH 87. Seaside park with a long history as a military post to protect the channel into Galveston Bay. First built by the Mexican Army in 1816 as earthen ramparts, the modern Fort Travis was built in 1898-1899 with concrete bunkers and two batteries (Davis and Ernst) with disappearing gun emplacements. Battery Kimble was built following World War I and had 12-inch guns with a 17-mile range. During World War II 2500 troops were stationed at the fort and another shore battery (Battery 236) was built with 6-inch guns. The troops kept watch for the constant threat of German U-boats to American oil supplies shipping out of the ports of Galveston and Houston. Today, tourists can walk around the concrete bunkers and enjoy the grassy fields overlooking the Gulf shores.
Do
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- Fishing - you can do surf fishing along 28 miles of shoreline up and down the peninsula, marinas and fishing guide services are available in Port Bolivar and Crystal Beach if you'd like to charter a boat for some deep-sea offshore fishing. Consult the Texas Parks and Wildlife Department for information about licenses and regulations.
- Birdwatching - The Bolivar Peninsula lies directly on the path where two of North America's major flyways converge, making it an important conservation zone and an excellent place to observe migrating bird species. Major wildlife reserves adjacent to Bolivar Peninsula are the 1 Anahuac National Wildlife Refuge immediately to the north, and the 2 McFaddin National Wildlife Refuge immediately to the east. Additionally, the Audubon Society maintains several bird sanctuaries on 3 High Island, which are popular during the spring migration season because you can see a "fall out" as the birds arrive from crossing the open Gulf and because a number of marine birds nest on High Island (including the magnificent roseate spoonbill).
- Beaches - The entire peninsula is a beach and you are allowed to drive your car onto the beach (after purchasing a beach permit, available at several local convenience stores or bait shops). Popular beach access points include: - Bolivar Flats, - Bolivar Beach, - Port Bolivar, - Crystal Beach, - Ramada Beach, - Gilchrist, - Beach Coast, - High Island Beach
Buy
[edit]Eat
[edit]There's oddly little to eat at either end of the Bolivar Peninsula, but midway, around Crystal Beach are several restaurants.
- 1 La Playita, 703 Madison Ave, Port Bolivar, ☏ +1 409-684-1383. 7AM-9PM. Local Mexican restaurant with good food and friendly service. Doesn't look like much from the outside, but the food is good. $10.
- 2 Stingaree Restaurant and Marina, 1295 N Stingaree Dr, Crystal Beach, ☏ +1 409-684-2731. 11AM-9PM. Waterfront seafood restaurant facing the East Bay, variety of frozen margarita flavors, steaks available. Gets busy, especially on weekends.
- 3 Tia Juanita's Fish Camp, 2275 TX-87 #15, Crystal Beach, ☏ +1 409-684-5006. 11AM-9PM. Fresh seafood prepared as you like, but the house specialty is fresh oysters on the half shell.
- 4 Tiki Beach Bar & Grill, 1369 TX-87, Crystal Beach, ☏ +1 409-684-9594. 11AM-9PM. Friendly, casual place with burgers, steak sandwiches, fries, etc. Gets busy on weekends and service can get slow.
- 5 Jose's Cantina, 1021 TX-87, Crystal Beach, ☏ +1 409 684 1180. 7:30AM-10PM, closed W. Lively place with seafood and Mexican dishes. Seafood is usually fried and a bit greasy but otherwise good. Gumbo is recommended and kids like the alligator bites (hmm, tastes like chicken).
Drink
[edit]Sleep
[edit]There are few hotels on the Bolivar Peninsula but a large selection of hotels are available in nearby Galveston. Many people who want to stay on the Bolivar Peninsula rent a beach house for a week or weekend, some of these are available via Airbnb, but the best are often available only through local realty offices. RV camps are very popular, especially near Crystal Beach. Some are small affairs for only a handful of RVs, others serve a few dozen.
Lodging
[edit]- 1 Gulfway Motel, 1365 TX-124, High Island, ☏ +1 409-286-5217. Check-in: 3PM, check-out: 11AM. Vintage motor hotel with outdoor pool and modernized rooms. Clean and comfortable. $80.
- 2 Crystal Palace Resort, 1600 TX-87, Crystal Beach, ☏ +1 409-684-6554. Check-in: 3PM, check-out: 11AM. Comfortable, moderate hotel close to the beach and restaurants. $70.
RV Camps
[edit]- 3 High Island RV Park, 1921 4th St, High Island, ☏ +1 409-407-4500. Small RV park in quiet area, half mile from beach. Offers 6 pull through sites and 18 back-in sites. Tent sites and RV rentals available. Minimum stays required seasonally.
- 4 The Breeze Oceanview RV Park, 2661 TX-87, Gilchrist, ☏ +1 409-474-0815. Small RV park right next to the gulf. Limited amenities.
- 5 Hailey's Beach n Bay RV Resort, 1029 Joy, Gilchrist, ☏ +1 409-225-2020. Check-in: 3PM, check-out: 11AM. Rent a fully equipped RV near the beach, kayaks and bikes available to use. $145.
- 6 Palapa RV Beach Resort, 731 TX-87, Gilchrist, ☏ +1 409-974-0064. Clean, well-maintained RV camp with swimming pool and path to the beach.
- 7 My Happy Place RV Camp, 946 Boyt Rd, Crystal Beach, ☏ +1 409-655-7735. Modern RV camp with full hookups, fire pits, covered picnic table. Dog friendly and easy walk to beach.
- 8 Bay Palms RV Resort, 1816 Nelson Ave, Port Bolivar, ☏ +1 409-777-2227. Nice, quiet, well-maintained park with many long-term residents.
Beach camping
[edit]- 9 Boondocks Camping, High Island. Free camping is permitted on the beach.
Connect
[edit]Cell phone reception is generally good along state highway 87. 5G service is good in Port Bolivar (which is close to Galveston) but may drop to 4G (or lower) as you cross the peninsula and then head north.