A view of St. Mary Magdalene Church, the Dome of the Rock, and much of the Old City from the Mount of Olives

East Jerusalem represents the eastern half of the once divided city and became the focus of Palestinian settlement around the Old City of Jerusalem in the period after the Second World War and Israeli independence in 1948. Since East Jerusalem fell under Israeli control in the Six Day War of 1967, a large number of Jewish neighbourhoods have also been settled. East Jerusalem is also the location of the first campus of the Hebrew University on Mt Scopus, although the university area and the military base near it were always under Israeli control, even prior to 1967. The area remains a point of contention in Arab-Israeli relations, which has intensified since the outbreak of hostilities in the last few years, and in the current (as of 2015) upsurge of violence some are calling the "Intifada of the Knives", the city has seen attacks on civilians by both Arabs and Jews.

Between the negotiations at Camp David and Taba, various options were explored to give the Palestinians more of a presence in East Jerusalem, which they claim as their capital. The peripheral villages and neighborhoods to the north and south of the city might have been ceded, although the Palestinians might receive less than full sovereignty over them - "functional autonomy," "administrative control" or "limited sovereignty."

In Taba, Israel considered ceding some parts of the core areas as well: some of the "Holy Basin" between the Old City and the Mount of Olives, downtown East Jerusalem, the Sheikh Jarrah Quarter, and in the Old City the Muslim and Christian Quarters. The Temple Mount/Haram issue remained unresolved, with Israel prepared to cede "functional sovereignty" (though not official) to the "upper" area of the mosques, while retaining sole sovereignty over the "lower" Western Wall. However, none of these ideas have been considered by Israeli governments in recent years.

Eat

• Kan Zman Jerusalem Hotel, Nablus Road, telephone 6283282. Middle Eastern specialities plus pasta and salads. Main courses start at about 30 NIS, and there are 50 NIS buffets on Thursday and Saturday nights. 7AM-12AM. Not kosher.

• American Colony Hotel, One Louis Vincent St., telephone 6279777. French and Middle Eastern cuisine. Three course meals from $25; summer bar. 12PM–3PM and 7PM-11:45PM. Reservations advised. Not kosher.

• Shababeek Restaurant, 7 Shimon Hatsidik St (Sheek Jarah), ☏ +972 2 5322626. noon-11PM. Lovely old style restaurant serving selected mediterranean food. 

Drink

• Gossip. Great Palestinian beer, nice atmosphere, and their Gossip Special Argila (shisha) is amazing. 

Sleep

• 1 Jerusalem Hotel, Nablus Rd, ☏ +972 2 6283282, fax: +972 2 6283282, raed@jrshotel.com. 

• 2 Mount of Olives Hotel, 53 Mount of Olives Rd, fax: 626-4427NOCC, info@mtolives.com. Affordable family-run hotel situated at the summit of the Mount of Olives in Jerusalem, next door to the Chapel of Ascension. Surrounded by famous churches and holy sites including, among others, the Garden of Gethsemene, the Tomb of the Virgin Mary, the Church of all Nations, Dominus Flevit, and the Pater Noster. Commands a view of the Old City and the Dome of the Rock. 

• 3 The American Colony Hotel, 1 Louis Vincent St, ☏ +972 2 627 9777, reserv@amcol.co.il. Luxury, historic boutique hotel in Jerusalem, located within walking distance of all major sights and within ten minutes of the Damascus Gate in the Old City. Has 86 unique rooms and suites, outdoor pool, spa treatments, breakfast buffet, free internet access and complimentary parking. 

• Ramsis Hostel (Guest House), Haneviim st .20 East Jerusalem (outside Damascus Gate), ☏ +972 2-6271651, ramsis777@ymail.com. Check-in: 10am, check-out: 10AM. A historical house located on the front line between eastern and western Jerusalem. The Owner and manager is Mike Mushasha, a very friendly and experienced man who speaks fluent English, Hebrew, and Romanian. $15.