Colonial-era buildings at Esplanade Row East

Esplanade (এসপ্ল্যানেড Esplyāneḍ) or Dharmatala (ধর্মতলা Dharmatalā) is the heart of Kolkata, with the mix of some colonial-era buildings with newer ones. It is the new central business district (CBD) of Kolkata and the place of choice for many large business houses, especially at Chowringhee Road (Jawaharlal Nehru Road) and Park Street (Mother Teresa Sarani).

When the British started expanding their settlement outside B. B. D. Bagh in the mid-18th century, it was one of the first expansions. During the early British developments around the area, they built huge bungalows and houses all along the northern end of Chowringhee Rd. However, only a few of them still remains, including The Oberoi Grand, the Janbazar Building, the Chowringhee Mansions, the Asiatic Society and the majestic Indian Museum.

Understand

This district covers the central areas of Kolkata, east of B. B. D. Bagh and the Maidan, covering the area around AJC Bose Rd (Lower Circular Rd), Chowringhee Road (Jawaharlal Nehru Road), Esplanade Row East (Sido Kanhu Dahar), Mayo Road, and Park Street (Mother Teresa Sarani). The area consists of neighbourhoods like Bowbazar, Chowringhee, Entally, Esplanade, and Janbazar.

Roads

• Chowringhee Road (চৌরঙ্গী রোড Chauraṅgī Roḍ), officially Jawaharlal Nehru Road (জওহরলাল নেহেরু রোড Jaoharlāl Neheru Roḍ), runs north-south from the junction with Esplanade Row East and Central Avenue (Dorina Crossing) to the junction with AJC Bose Road and Ashutosh Mukherjee Road (Exide More). It is lined up with trees at one side and high-rise buildings at the other, and most of the buildings are major commercial establishments of Kolkata.
• Park Street (পার্ক স্ট্রিট Pārk Sṭriṭ), officially Mother Teresa Sarani (মাদার টেরিজা সরণি Mādār Ṭerijā Saraṇi), runs west-east from Chowringhee Road to AJC Bose Road, and eventually to Park Circus. It is Kolkata's foremost dining area with many restaurants and pubs, which also showcases fashionable clothes, books from all over the world and so on. Park Street has retained the British spirit and is so well decorated during Christmas and New Year as if it is still part of the British Empire.

Get in

By bus

1 Esplanade Bus Terminus also serves several city bus routes, not just the long-distance ones. It is the most obvious way to get here, though there are bus stops to alight at specific destinations within the district.

By metro

Esplanade is served by metrro lines  1  and  2 . Line  1  is useful to get here from northern and southern parts of the city, while Line  2  is useful to get here from Howrah. Line  2  is the fastest way to connect the twin cities of Kolkata and Howrah, avoiding the congestion at the Howrah Bridge and Vidyasagar Setu.

By tram

There are only two active routes from 2 Esplanade Tram Terminus, one from Shyambazar, and another from Gariahat. Despite being eco-friendly, this is not the most practical way to get here, especially in peak hours when the roads are congested.

See

The 42

Courtyard of the Indian Museum

Metropolitan Building

Shaheed Minar

• 1 The 42 (দ্য ফোরটি-টু Dya Phōrṭi-Ṭu), 42B, Chowringhee Rd. A 260 m (850 ft) high box-shaped apartment building, and the tallest building of the city. (updated Apr 2023)
• 2 Bow Barracks (বো ব্যারাক Bo Byārāk). A small hub of mainly Anglo-Indian population who have lived here for generations. According to a legend, Bow Barracks was a garrison's mess built for the army during World War I. When the soldiers left India, they handed over the flats to the Anglo-Indians who took them on rent. Bow Barracks is also famous for its Christmas celebration. (updated Dec 2022)
• 3 Currency Building, 1, Surendra Mohan Ghosh Sarani. A three-story Italianate structure, consisting of floors covered by marble and Chunar sandstone. During its use as a currency office, the central hall contained the exchange counters for banknotes, gold, silver, and small change. In 1994, authorities decided to raze the building due to structural deterioration. However, the building was saved from being completely demolished and was renovated between 2005 and 2019. On 11 January 2020, the building was formally dedicated as a public museum at its reopening ceremony. (updated Dec 2022)
• 4 Esplanade Mansions, 1, Esplanade Row East. One of the buildings previously owned by Jewish businessman David Elias Ezra. The residential building was built in the Art Nouveau architecture style. As of 2022, it is owned by the Life Insurance Corporation (LIC) and houses commercial, railways and other government offices. (updated Nov 2022)
• 5 House of Henry Louis Vivian Derozio, 155A, AJC Bose Rd. Derozio was a young social reformer and the founder of the Young Bengal group. (updated Nov 2022)
• 6 Metropolitan Building (Whiteways and Laidlaw Building), 140, Chowringhee Rd (metro: Esplanade  1 ). It was a famous department store in Kolkata during the British period. This neo-baroque emporium—with domes, a clock tower and arched recessed windows—exemplifies fashionable shopping during the British Raj. (updated Nov 2022)
• 7 Shaheed Minar (শহীদ মিনার Śahīd Minār, former name: Ochterlony Monument). Locally known as simply "Monument", the British colonial monument is 48 meters high. It is rededicated to the Indian freedom activists in 1969 and the monument was renamed Shaheed Minar. (updated Sep 2022)

Museums

• 8 Indian Museum, 27, Chowringhee Rd (metro: Park Street  1 ), ☏ +91 33 2249 5699, fax: +91 33 249 5696, indianmuseumkolkata@gmail.com. closed on Mondays. Established in 1814, this was the first such museum in Asia. Among its famous collection is the urn that held the ashes of the Buddha (though this is generally not on display), a Pillar of Ashoka (the three-lion symbol which became the official emblem of the Republic of India) and numerous rare antiques. A varied collection of exhibits include unique fossils, Buddhist Gandhara art and an Egyptian mummy. The Indian Museum has a library of excellent historical value, with a special focus on the British Raj and Kolkata. Admission: ₹10 (for Indian citizens) ₹150 (for foreign citizens). (updated Nov 2022)
• 9 Smaranika Tram Museum, 6, Esplanade Row E (metro: Esplanade  1  2 ; tram: Esplanade ). 3PM–8PM (closed Th). A museum housed inside a decommissioned tram, showcasing the 150-year-old heritage of the tram system in Kolkata. There's a cafeteria in the museum which serves basic tea and coffee. The cafeteria is considered a great place for adda... ₹5. (updated Mar 2024)

Religious attractions

Tipu Sultan Mosque

• 10 Bauddha Dharmankur Sabha, 1 Buddhist Temple St, ☏ +91 33 2211 7138. A Buddhist monastery established in 1892 and run by the Bengal Buddhist Association. The distinct red building mostly consists of a school and a guest house. There is a very small Buddhist shrine tucked away on the 1st floor.  
• 11 Beth-El Synagogue (বেথ এল সিনাগগ). (updated Apr 2023)
• 12 Carey Baptist Church, BB Ganguly St, Bowbazar, ☏ +91 33 2236 7254. (updated Nov 2022)
• 13 Church of the Lord Jesus (Prabhu Jisur Girja; প্রভু যীশুর গির্জা), Rafi Ahmed Kidwai Rd, Taltala. Formerly a Church of Scotland Presbyterian, the Catholic church is a unique one in the city with most of religious services are done in Bengali. (updated Dec 2022)
• 14 Firinghi Kalibari (ফিরিঙ্গি কালীবাড়ি Phiriṅgi Kālībāṛi), 244, BB Ganguly St, Bowbazar. An old Kali temple, said to be 500 years old. The temple is called "Firinghi Kalibari" since Portuguese-born folk singer Anthony Firingee used to come in the temple. Here Goddess Kali is worshipped as "Shri Shri Siddheshwari Kalimata Thakurani". (updated Dec 2022)
• 15 Mother Teresa’s tomb (Mother House), 54A, AJC Bose Rd, ☏ +91 33 2217 5267. The Missionaries of Charity is a new order formed in 1950 by Mother Teresa. Their vow to give wholehearted and free service to the poorest of the poor was put into action with the setting up of several homes. Visit Mother Teresa’s tomb at the Mother House, Nirmal Hriday (home for the dying), Shanti Nagar (for lepers) and Nirmala Shishu Bhavan (the children’s home). (updated Sep 2022)
• 16 South Park Street cemetery, Park St. The final resting place for early British traders and settlers. (updated Nov 2022)
• 17 Tipu Sultan Mosque (টিপু সুলতান মসজিদ Ṭipu Sultān Masjid), 185, Lenin Sarani. Built in 1832 by Prince Ghulam Mohammed, the youngest son of Tipu Sultan. People from all sections of society and religions are allowed to visit and take pictures of this historical premise.  

Do

• 1 Curzon Park (Surendranath Park), Rashmoni Ave (metro: Esplanade  1 ). (updated Nov 2022)
• 2 Indira Gandhi Sarani (Red Road). A road running from Raj Bhavan to Fort William West Gate, surrounded by greenery. The road is known for a large parade on Republic Day (26 January) and the Durga Puja Carnival. (updated Nov 2024)
• 3 Jyoti Cinema, 32/1, Lenin Sarani. One of the most popular and oldest single-screen movie theatres of Kolkata. Hindi films and English Hollywood films used to be screened regularly. The theatre had a steady audience for its comfortable seating, good screen quality and stereophonic sound. (updated Nov 2022)
• 4 Metro Cinema, 8, Chowringhee Rd. A uniplex cinema hall and a heritage building with Art Deco architecture. (updated Nov 2022)

Learn

• 1 Alliance Française du Bengale, Gate 3, Park Mansions, 57A Park St (upon arriving at Park Mansions, enter the gate facing Park St at Mirza Ghalib St-Park St crossing), ☏ +91 33 4006 4801. 10AM-6PM (closed Su). The French language school in Kolkata, promoting the study of French and encouraging international cultural exchange and relations. (updated Nov 2024)
• 2 The Asiatic Society, 1, Park St. (updated Nov 2022)
• 3 Max Mueller Bhavan Kolkata (Goethe-Institut), Gate 4, Park Mansions, 57A Park St (upon arriving at Park Mansions, take Mirza Ghalib St and enter the leftmost gate), ☏ +91 33 2264 6602. 9AM-6PM (closed Su). The German language school in Kolkata, promoting the study of German and encouraging international cultural exchange and relations. (updated Nov 2024)

Buy

Meat shops at New Market

The Esplanade area is the central marketplace for the people of Kolkata. There are shops ranging from computer peripherals to paint brushes and accessories, from cloth merchants to "foreign" (ফরেন pharen) goods. There are cinemas and restaurants. Major chain retailers include Pantaloons (22, Camac St).

• 1 Dr B. C. Roy Market (Maidan Market, Bidhan Market), Dufferin Rd (metro: Esplanade  1 ). It has garments, sports goods and other shops. (updated Dec 2022)
• 2 Eagle, 12/2 Lindsay St (in front on New Market), ☏ +91 33 98 023 6663. A good place to pick up Indian art films. 
• 3 Earthcare Books, 10 Middleton St (Maidan metro station), ☏ +91 33 2229-6551. A wonderful independent bookstore tucked away in an alley leading from Middleton St. As the name suggests, the bookstore specializes in environmental titles but also has a wide range of local subjects and poetry. 
• 4 Emami Shoppers' City, 3 Lord Sinha Rd, ☏ +91 33 2282 0675. Coffee shops, bookshop, designer wear, toy shops, boutiques, footwear stores, electronic stores, discotheque, beauty salons, gift shops, game parlours, multiplex 
• 5 Entally Market, 58, AJC Bose Rd. One of the old markets in Kolkata. Shops sell ready-made garments, vegetables, groceries, textiles, margarine, fish and fruits. This market was once famously known for its dairy product shops that provided high quality dairy items such as paneer, ghee, yogurt, condensed milk, cheese and butter. (updated Dec 2022)
• 6 Handicrafts (Between Sudder St and Surendranath Banerjee Road). It has several shops selling handicrafts. The largest is at the corner of Surendranath Banerjee Road. 
• 7 Metro Plaza, 1, Ho Chi Minh Sarani (beside Tata Centre, near to Maidan metro station), ☏ +91 33 30525473, +91 33 30525474, +91 33 22883802. Locally manufactured readymade clothes. Many shops deal only in imported garments, mostly from Bangkok. The latest footwear and lingerie. Good parking facility. 
• 8 Mirza Ghalib Street (Free School Street). It is famous for its second-hand bookshops and second-hand record stalls. Rummaging through the LPs for sale on the street, one may find real gems from the jazz age. 
• 9 New Market, Bertram St, Lenin Sarani (E of Lindsay Street ). M–F 10:30AM–7:30PM, S 10:30AM–2:30PM. One of the oldest surviving markets in the city. Opened in 1874, it was named Sir Stuart Hogg Market after the commissioner Sir Stuart Hogg and it is still locally known as such. Although the beautiful fountain and benches at the market no longer exist, its popularity has not waned and the beautiful Gothic clock tower recalls the British heritage of the market. New Market is a good place to sample Indian sweet delicacies and generally soak up the atmosphere of Kolkata. There are also a few handicraft stalls inside. The market is in a large red brick building on Lindsay Street (the road parallel Sudder Street to the north). It has got over 2,000 stalls and is a bargain hunter's delight. The shops are arranged merchandise-wise. It is supposed to be the ultimate marketing experience in Kolkata. (updated Jan 2023)
• 10 Oxford Book Store, 15 Park St, ☏ +91 33 2229 5455. A large and well-organised bookstore. Good selection of books on India and by Indian writers. Discount books and cafe (Cha Bar, see Drink section) on the second floor. 
• 11 Shree Ram Arcade, 15A, Chowringhee Rd. Open from 10:00-20:00 from Tuesday to Saturday and from 13:00 - 20:00. on Mondays. Sunday holiday.. Full of garment shops. 
• 12 Treasure Island. M 1PM-8PM, Tu-Sa 10AM-8PM. 
• 13 Vardaan Market, 25-A, Camac St, ☏ +91 33 22812724, +91 33 22874082. Forerunner of today's large shopping malls, it was the earliest air-conditioned market. Little shops and stalls line the walls of this mall selling shoes, handbags, toys, saris, salwar suits and western wear for ladies, shirts, tee shirts and trousers for men and children's clothes for all ages, chocolates and snacks. 
• 14 Westside, Block D22 Camac St, ☏ +91 33 22817312, mywestside@trent-tata.com. 11AM-9PM. The Westside stores have numerous departments to meet the varied shopping needs of customers. These include menswear, women’s wear, kid’s wear, footwear, cosmetics, perfumes and handbags, household accessories, lingerie, and gifts. Fashionable goods are priced a little on the higher side. 

Eat

• 1 Bhim Chandra Nag, 5, Nirmal Chandra St, ☏ +91 33 2212 0465, +91 33 2269 7908. Famous for sandesh. Also makes a variety of sweets. (updated Apr 2018)
• 2 Blue Sky Cafe, 3, Sudder St (on the corner of Chowringhee Ln). The food is cheap, the place is clean and the service is truly fantastic. Great if you are on an extended stay as they offer both Indian and some Western food. You will not find nicer waiters anywhere. Try the freshly squeezed juices. (updated Feb 2019)
• Curd Corner (near junction with Chowringhee Ln). This small hole-in-the-wall eatery is quite an institution in the area, and a generation of travellers have gorged themselves on the fresh and thick yoghurt. Check out the filter coffee and 'mock' cappuccino. Service staff don't speak English, which makes it hard when their menu is in English. (updated Aug 2022)
• 3 Chung-Wah, 13A, Chittaranjan Ave (Near Chandni Chowk metro station), ☏ +91 33 22377003. One of the oldest and best places to sample Chinese food. Drinks served. 
• Gangaur, 2 Russel St, ☏ +91 33 22658437. Serves a variety of vegetarian food but is famous for its Rajasthani or Marwari food. 
• 4 Jimmy's Kitchen, 7/1A, AJC Bose Rd (AJC Bose Road-Shakespeare Sarani crossing), ☏ +91 33 2290 7139. Chinese food. Drinks available. Popular items: Thai soup, noodles, lung fung soup, prawn, crispy chilli chicken, roast pork chilli, sweet corn soup. Jimmy's Kitchen has two branches: 1. 36F Ruby Hospital Road, 2. 14D, Lindsay Street. 
• 5 Jyoti Vihar, Ho Chi Min Sarani, ☏ +91 33 2282 9791. Offers clean and tasty South Indian food. It is completely vegetarian. It is on the same street as the US Consulate. 
• 6 K.C. Das Sweets, 11A&B, Chittaranjan Ave, Esplanade. Best known for its rasgullas, which is fondly called "rosogolla" (রসগোল্লা) in Bengali. (updated Oct 2022)
• Kabab-e-Que (The Astor), 15 Shakespeare Sarani (inside the Astor Hotel), ☏ +91-33 22829957-58. They serve Indian and continental cuisine, but what has made this outlet famous is the variety of kababs that goes wonderfully well with drinks. 
• Kathleen's, Mirza Ghalib St. Pastry shop and an eclectic mix of cuisines dominated by Indian and Chinese styles. 
• Khalsa, Madge Ln (on left side when entering Madge Ln, from Sudder St). offers excellent and cheap Punjabi food. (updated Feb 2019)
• 7 Mocambo, 25B Mirza Ghalib St, ☏ +91 33 2265 4300. Same owners as Peter Cat, but here the cuisine is a bit more rounded. Continental, Indian and even some Chinese dishes are served in upscale surroundings. mains ₹100-300. 
• 8 Mission Cafe, 20 Ganesh Chandra Ave, Bowbazar. Vegetarian fast food spot. Dosa, chaats and curry are served at high tables. The cafe is known for its chole bhature, a chickpea dish served in a phuchka shell. Turnover is fast here, not even stools to sit on, but it is nonetheless tasty. 
• New Embassy, 53A, Chowringhee Ln (right on Chowringhee Road between Theatre Road crossing and AJC Bose Road crossing), ☏ +91 33 22827490. Delicious Chinese food. 
• 9 Nizam's, Junction of Hogg St and Corporation Pl. 
• 10 Raj's Spanish Cafe, 7, Sudder St (hard-to-find alleyway entrance close to intersection Mirza Ghalib St), ☏ +91 33 4001 4373. 8AM-10PM. Serves breakfast and espresso-based coffees. Mexican, pizza, and other Western staples. mains ₹100. (updated Feb 2019)
• 11 Sip & Sandwich, 1 Shakespeare Sarani, Theatre Road AC Market, Elgin (Chowringhee Rd corner), ☏ +91 9830605145. Vegetarian fast food 

Chowringhee Road

• Aheli, Peerless Inn Hotel, 12, Chowringhee Rd, ☏ +91 33 2228-0301, +91 33 4400-3900. Authentic Bengali food, served in brass utensils in a Bengali marriage environment. Drinks not served. 
• 12 Rallis, Esplanade, 10D, Chowringhee Rd (metro: Esplanade  1 ). Vegetarian restaurant known for various kinds of snacks. Chats and South Indian foods are common. Famous for non-alcoholic drinks including various kinds of milkshakes. (updated Nov 2022)
• Ban Thai, Oberoi Grand, 15 Chowringhee Rd, ☏ +91 33 2249-2323. M-F 7-11:30PM, Sa Su 12:30-3PM and 7-11:30PM. For an authentic taste of Thailand, visit Baan Thai. Widely recognised as the premier Thai restaurant in the country. Drinks served. Around ₹4,000 for two people. Drinks extra. 

Park Street

• 13 Drive Inn, 10 Middleton St (same as Earthcare Books), ☏ +91 33 2217-2247. An outdoor restaurant offering a wide range of good vegetarian and non-vegetarian fare (Indian/Chinese). AC area is available, the staff speaks good English and is friendly. Meals from around ₹70. 
• 14 Flury's, 18 Park St (metro: Park Street  1 ), ☏ +91 33 22297664. Tu-Su 7AM-8PM, M 10AM-6PM. A popular and stylish cafe serving a good variety of baked goods and various coffees, sandwiches and entrees. A great place for breakfast or lunch. Baked goods ₹80-₹100, drinks ₹80, meals ₹600-₹1000. 
• 15 Kwality, 17, Park St (next to Oxford Book Shop). Been around for years with sharply dressed waiters serving tasty tandoori and north Indian food to well-off locals. Try their Chhola-bhatura. Mains from ₹100. 
• Moulin Rouge (not to be confused with Paris night club), 31, Park St, ☏ +91 33 2229 9397. 
• Oasis, 33, Park St, ☏ +91 33 2229 9033. Cosy restaurant with variety of foods. Has a small bar service counter with three stalls. 
• 16 Peter Cat, 18, Park St (metro: Park Street  1 ), ☏ +91 33 2229 8841. Very popular for its chello kababs. However, their service has not received the best reviews. Serves Indian, tandoori and Continental fare. 
• 17 Waldorf, 13 D, Russel St (near crossing with Park St), ☏ +91 33 65354952. Serves delicious Chinese food 
• 18 Shiraz Golden Restaurant, 135, Park St (near AJC Bose Rd crossing), ☏ +91 33 3099 0175. Noon-11:30PM. Biryani and Mughlai food. Popular items: firni, mutton biryani, brain masala, chicken tikka, chicken reshmi butter masala, mutton haleem. It has four food outlets in Kolkata: Kankurgachi, Salt Lake Sector III, Ajay Nagar, and Nagerbazar. 

Drink

Alcohol

• 1 Fairlawn Beer Garden, 13/A Sudder St (inside Hotel Fairlawn), ☏ +91 33 2252 1510. Only serves beer. Eccentric atmosphere with greenery everywhere. Famous among travellers and volunteers. Great place for meeting people and early evening drinking. Snacks and dinner available. 
• 2 The Myx, 20G Park St. (updated Nov 2024)
• 3 Olypub, 23 Park St, ☏ +91 33 64520472. 11AM to 11PM. A fine afforable bar 
• Super Pub, Sudder St (opposite of Fire Station). Air-conditioned and clean place. Serves beer and hard liquor and seasonal fruit juice. Snacks and eateries are reasonably priced. 

Coffees

There are a number of cafe chains (Barista, Cafe Coffee Day, etc.) on Park Street, near the junction with Mirza Ghalib Street.

• 4 Cha Bar, 2nd floor, Oxford Book Store, Park St. A modern and chic cafe with a great selection of teas, including herbal, smoothies. Cha Bar also sells coffee, but this is of mediocre quality. A large window offers views of St life below, while the books provide a literary dimension. Cha Bar is an excellent place for a budding writer or a day dreamer. 
• The Street, GF, Park Hotel, Park St. The universal colours of chic decor, black and red, are used extensively to give this cafe a warm but modern feel. Good selection of coffees and healthy snacks opposed to what the name might make you think. This cafe is about as far from representing Kolkata street life as you could possibly get, but it makes a good alternative to the ubiquitous Baristas and Coffee Days. 

Sleep

This guide uses the following price ranges for a standard double room:
Budget	Under ₹2,000
Mid-range	₹2,000 to ₹5,000
Splurge	Over ₹5,000

Sudder Street is at the centre of Kolkata's backpacker area, and many of the budget hotels geared towards travellers are on and around this street.

Budget

• 1 Astoria Hotel, Sudder St, ☏ +91 33 2252 9679, +91 90516 88123, astoria@hotmail.com. Clean, large, albeit drab, rooms with private bathrooms. It has variety of options for dining and also has fitness amenities. The hotel staff are usually considered helpful, though the receptionist is sometimes considered rude and unhelpful. ₹2,850-3,200. (updated Nov 2024)
• 2 Broadway Hotel, 27A Ganesh Chandra Ave, Chandni Chowk, ☏ +91 33 22363930, +91 33 2236 3931, contact@broadwayhotel.in. Check-out: 24 hours from when you check in. Despite lacking AC the very large rooms with high ceilings make for a great space and the price is definitely right. Don't miss the authentic ambience of the restaurant and bar of this 1937-built hotel. Supposedly due to the hotel's popularity rooms are often difficult to get unless you book ahead, however, try hanging around and see if one magically opens up while you're there (especially if you're first offered a more expensive room). Upper triple rooms have balconies. Also one of the few places which serves beer with a plate of sliced cucumber. ₹775 double with private bathroom. (updated Nov 2024)
• 3 Esplanade Chambers, 2 Chandni Chowk St, ☏ +91 33 2212 7101, +91 99 0313 2621, esplanadechambers@yahoo.co.in. Very clean and reasonably quiet rooms, albeit not massive. Has a free and reliable Wi-Fi service. The staff and the manager are considered very helpful and accommodating. Single from ₹1,400, double deluxe ₹2,200, breakfast incl. (updated Nov 2024)
• 4 Hotel Galaxy, 3, Stuart Ln (off Sudder St), ☏ +33 2252 4565. Clean, simple, and convenient location with AC rooms. Has kitchen and drinking water supply facilities. The hotel staff are considered helpful. ₹1,000-1,100. (updated Nov 2024)
• 5 Hotel Jaapon, 30F Mirza Galib St (at the end of Sudder St), ☏ +91 33 2252 0657, +91 33 2252 0658. Reasonably clean AC and non-AC rooms available with a very small private bathroom and cable TV. Beds are surprisingly comfortable given the thin and well-worn mattresses, but some rooms are chokingly musty - check before checking in. The hotel staff are not considered helpful. Single: ₹650, AC doubles: ₹1,100. (updated Nov 2024)
• 6 Hotel Maria, 5/1 Sudder St, ☏ +91 33 2252 0860. dorm ₹80, Very basic, creatively graffiti-ed rooms with and without attached bathroom from ₹300 as of Feb 2015. Grumpy service, cheap laundry, dank bathroom/toilet and no wifi. Very central location, takes no bookings, so arrive early (8:30AM onwards). 
• 7 Hotel Modern Lodge, 1, Stuart Ln (off Sudder St), ☏ +91 33 2252 4960. Not very modern, but cheap and fairly clean. ₹150 for a single with a shared cold-water bathroom. ₹100-250. 
• Hotel Royal Palace, ☏ +91 33 2252 5280, +91 33 2252 4178. Clean and large A/C & non-A/C rooms with private bath, TV, STD/ISD. ₹350-750. 
• 8 Seacom Inn YMCA, 25 Chowringhee Rd (near corner with Kyd St), ☏ +91 33 2249-2192, chowringheeymca@yahoo.com. An extremely drab and dark hotel that appears not to have received a lick of paint since its founding in the mid-19th century. However, in some ways, that is the hotel's distinctive charm, and so it may appeal to strict traditionalists. There is a simple restaurant on the second floor. The food is nothing special, but the balcony offers a great view of the buzzing city below. Non A/C single ₹600, with A/C ₹850. (updated Oct 2022)
• 9 Sunflower Guest House, 7 Royd St (200 m away intersection Park St and Mirza Ghalib St), ☏ +91 33 2229 9401, +91 33 2229 8388, sunflowerguesthouse@gmail.com. Clean and great location. Those who tote lots of luggage be warned there are stairs to climb to the top floor reception. ₹1,350 double. (updated Oct 2022)

Mid-range

• 10 DK international Hotel, 11/1A Marquis St (near to Colin St corner), ☏ +91 33 2252 2540, +91 33 2252 2666, dkinhotel@gmail.com. All rooms A/C and breakfast included. Close to the Bangladesh bus stations. There are better deals out there but not quite as new as this place. Double from ₹1,800+tax. 
• 11 The Senator, 15 Camac St, ☏ +91 33 2289 3000. Check-in: noon, check-out: noon. (updated Nov 2024)

Splurge

The Oberoi Grand

• 12 The Astor, 15 Shakespeare Sarani, ☏ +91 33 22829957, fax: +91 33 22827430, sales@astorkolkata.com. Kabab-e-Que restaurant phone +91 33 22829958 Double: ₹5,900-10,200. (updated Nov 2024)
• 13 Elgin Fairlawn, 13/A Sudder St, ☏ +91 33 2252 1510, +91 33 2252 8767, fairlawn@cal.vsnl.net.in. The building dates to 1783 with many colonial-era relics. Single: ₹5,000-5,600, double: ₹7,550-8,400. (updated Nov 2024)
• 14 The Golden Parkk, 13 Ho Chi Minh Sarani, ☏ +91 33 22883939, fax: +91 33 22889600, sales@thegoldenpark.com. From ₹8,000. 
• 15 Housez 43, 43 Mirza Ghalib St, ☏ +91 33 2227 6020, +91 7595067173, booking.housez43@thesparkhotels.com. All rooms equipped with air-conditioning, TV, and private bath. Rates start at ₹4,950. (updated Oct 2022)
• 16 The LaLiT Great Eastern, ☏ +91 33 4444-7777. Built in 1841, the Great Eastern Hotel is one of the oldest hotels in Kolkata. The hotel has housed many famous personalities including Nikita Khrushchev and Nikolai Bulganin, Elizabeth II, Mark Twain, Dave Brubeck and possibly Ho Chi Minh. (updated Dec 2022)
• 17 Hotel Lindsay, 8A/8B Lindsay St, ☏ +91 33 3021 8666, sales@hotellindsay.com. The hotel is well-lit and clean. Its facilities, including a room minibar, hot water, tea and coffee, make it a good value four-star property. ₹4,600 double. (updated Oct 2022)
• 18 New Kenilworth Hotel, 1 & 2, Little Russel St, ☏ +91 33 2282 3939, fax: +91 33 2282 5136, +91 33 2282 3940-66214100, reservationkol@kenilworthhotels.com. ₹8.000-₹11,000 all tax incl.. 
• 19 The Oberoi Grand, 15, Chowringhee Rd, ☏ +91 33 2249 2323, toll-free: 1800-11-2030, fax: +91 33 2249 9427, reservations@oberoigroup.com. US$375-1,375, ₹10,000. (updated Nov 2024)
• 20 The Park Hotel, 17, Park St, ☏ +91 33 2249 3121, fax: +91 33 2249 4000, resv.cal@theparkhotels.com. The unassuming exterior hides an elegant and homely interior with stylish Indian features. Drink at Aqua (First Floor), Roxy (Ground Floor), and Someplace Else (Ground Floor). ₹9,950-12,200. (updated Nov 2024)
• 21 Peerless Inn, 12 Chowringhee Rd, ☏ +91 33 4400 3900. From ₹10,000. (updated Nov 2024)
• 22 Hotel Walson, 5A Sudder St, ☏ +91 33 2252 1512, +91 99033 29977, bawawalson@bawahotels.com. Check-in: noon, check-out: noon. An upscale new venue that's breaking the trend from the Sudder St backpacker tide. 29 rooms ₹6,000-6,200. (updated Nov 2024)

Stay safe

Although most of Esplanade is considered safe, one noted problem here is the drug dealers around Sudder Street. However, as the dealers obviously do not want to draw undue attention to their activity, they are not persistent and are rarely a threat.

Police stations

• 4 Park Street Police Station, ☏ +91 33 22268321, +91 33 22832100, +91 33 22276437. (updated Nov 2024)

Connect

There are other smaller internet cafes on Sudder St such as Net Freaks, but they are often very busy.

• 5 Gopal's Planet, 7 Tottie Ln (Coming from Sudder St, walk 50m (150ft) into Tottie Ln. On your left-hand side, same building as Raj's Guesthouse, ground floor), ☏ +91 9674273616, gopalsplanet@gmail.com. 8AM-11PM. Friendly, quiet internet cafe off Sudder Street with relatively modern computers, AC and free chai (with Wi-Fi, Skype, printers, phone calls, etc.). They also rent bicycles and sell train tickets. Their coffee and snacks are good as well. 
• 6 Hotline Services, 7, Sudder St (near the Astoria Hotel, at the back of the parking lot between Roop Shringar clothing shop and Metro Beauty Parlour. Identified with a large illuminated sign in red). It has a room jam-packed with high-speed computers, and charges ₹15/hr. They also sell CDs of various styles of Indian music for around ₹150/each and have a selection of hand-woven material and cotton clothing from all over India. The hotline also provides a coffee and snack service. (updated Nov 2022)