Esplanade
Esplanade (এসপ্ল্যানেড Esplyāneḍ) or Dharmatala (ধর্মতলা Dharmatalā) is the heart of Kolkata, with the mix of old colonial-era buildings with newer ones. Many of the city's important buildings are here, the old central business district (CBD) of the city.
Understand
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Esplanade is the eastern outgrowth of B. B. D. Bagh, the colonial-era precinct of the city. It is a modern business district of Kolkata and the place of choice for many large business houses. After the British started expanding their settlement outside Fort William in the mid-18th century, it was one of the first expansions. During the early British developments around the area, they built huge bungalows and houses all along the eastern end of Chowringhee Road (officially Jawaharlal Nehru Road). However, only a few of them still remains, including The Oberoi Grand, the Janbazar Building, the Chowringhee Mansions, the Asiatic Society and the majestic Indian Museum.
This district covers the area east of Lal Dighi and Raj Bhavan, including Esplanade Row East (Sido Kanhu Dahar), northern Chowringhee Road (Jawaharlal Nehru Road), Bentinck Street and Mayo Road.
Get in
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Map of Esplanade
By bus
[edit]- 1 Esplanade Bus Terminus
. It has bus terminals for buses from Bangladesh, Bhutan, Sikkim, Odisha, Jharkhand, Bihar and other parts of the country... 
By metro
[edit]The North–South Metro 1 runs over Central Avenue and Chowringhee Road with the stop at Esplanade. The Howrah Maidan–Esplanade section of the East–West Metro 2 runs below the Hooghly River and terminates at Esplanade.
By tram
[edit]While Kolkata's tram network has shrunk, there's still a few routes operating from 2 Esplanade 
.
See
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- 1 Bow Barracks (বো ব্যারাক Bo Byārāk). A small hub of mainly Anglo-Indian population who have lived here for generations. According to a legend, Bow Barracks was a garrison's mess built for the army during World War I. When the soldiers left India, they handed over the flats to the Anglo-Indians who took them on rent. Bow Barracks is also famous for its Christmas celebration.
- 2 Currency Building, 1, Surendra Mohan Ghosh Sarani. A three-story Italianate structure, consisting of floors covered by marble and Chunar sandstone. During its use as a currency office, the central hall contained the exchange counters for banknotes, gold, silver, and small change. In 1994, authorities decided to raze the building due to structural deterioration. However, the building was saved from being completely demolished and was renovated between 2005 and 2019. On 11 January 2020, the building was formally dedicated as a public museum at its reopening ceremony.
- 3 Esplanade Mansions, 1, Esplanade Row East. One of the buildings previously owned by Jewish businessman David Elias Ezra. The residential building was built in the Art Nouveau architecture style. As of 2022, it is owned by the Life Insurance Corporation (LIC) and houses commercial, railways and other government offices.
- 4 Metropolitan Building (Whiteways and Laidlaw Building), 140, Chowringhee Rd (metro: Esplanade 1 ). It was a famous department store in Kolkata during the British period. This neo-baroque emporium—with domes, a clock tower and arched recessed windows—exemplifies fashionable shopping during the British Raj.
- 5 Shaheed Minar (শহীদ মিনার Śahīd Minār, former name: Ochterlony Monument). Locally known as simply "Monument", the British colonial monument is 48 meters high. It is rededicated to the Indian freedom activists in 1969 and the monument was renamed Shaheed Minar.
Museums
[edit]- 6 Indian Museum, 27, Chowringhee Rd (metro: Park Street 1 ), ☏ +91 33 2249 5699, fax: +91 33 249 5696, indianmuseumkolkata@gmail.com. closed on Mondays. Established in 1814, this was the first such museum in Asia. Among its famous collection is the urn that held the ashes of the Buddha (though this is generally not on display), a Pillar of Ashoka (the three-lion symbol which became the official emblem of the Republic of India) and numerous rare antiques. A varied collection of exhibits include unique fossils, Buddhist Gandhara art and an Egyptian mummy. The Indian Museum has a library of excellent historical value, with a special focus on the British Raj and Kolkata. Admission: ₹10 (for Indian citizens) ₹150 (for foreign citizens).
- 7 Smaranika Tram Museum, 6, Esplanade Row E (metro: Esplanade 1 2 ; tram: Esplanade
). 3PM–8PM (closed Th). A museum housed inside a decommissioned tram, showcasing the 150-year-old heritage of the tram system in Kolkata. There's a cafeteria in the museum which serves basic tea and coffee. The cafeteria is considered a great place for adda... ₹5.
Religious attractions
[edit]- 8 Bauddha Dharmankur Sabha, 1 Buddhist Temple St, ☏ +91 33 2211 7138. A Buddhist monastery established in 1892 and run by the Bengal Buddhist Association. The distinct red building mostly consists of a school and a guest house. There is a very small Buddhist shrine tucked away on the 1st floor.
- 9 Beth-El Synagogue (বেথ এল সিনাগগ).
- 10 Carey Baptist Church, BB Ganguly St, Bowbazar, ☏ +91 33 2236 7254.
- 11 Firinghi Kalibari (ফিরিঙ্গি কালীবাড়ি Phiriṅgi Kālībāṛi), 244, BB Ganguly St, Bowbazar. An old Kali temple, said to be 500 years old. The temple is called "Firinghi Kalibari" since Portuguese-born folk singer Anthony Firingee used to come in the temple. Here Goddess Kali is worshipped as "Shri Shri Siddheshwari Kalimata Thakurani".
- 12 Tipu Sultan Mosque (টিপু সুলতান মসজিদ Ṭipu Sultān Masjid), 185, Lenin Sarani. Built in 1832 by Prince Ghulam Mohammed, the youngest son of Tipu Sultan. People from all sections of society and religions are allowed to visit and take pictures of this historical premise.
Do
[edit]- 1 Curzon Park (Surendranath Park), Rashmoni Ave (metro: Esplanade 1 ).
- 2 Indira Gandhi Sarani (Red Road). A road running from Raj Bhavan to Fort William West Gate, surrounded by greenery. The road is known for a large parade on Republic Day (26 January) and the Durga Puja Carnival.
- 3 Jyoti Cinema, 32/1, Lenin Sarani. One of the most popular and oldest single-screen movie theatres of Kolkata. Hindi films and English Hollywood films used to be screened regularly. The theatre had a steady audience for its comfortable seating, good screen quality and stereophonic sound.
- 4 Metro Cinema, 8, Chowringhee Rd. A uniplex cinema hall and a heritage building with Art Deco architecture.
Buy
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- 1 Dr B. C. Roy Market (Maidan Market, Bidhan Market), Dufferin Rd (metro: Esplanade 1 ). It has garments, sports goods and other shops.
- 2 Eagle, 12/2 Lindsay St (in front on New Market), ☏ +91 33 98 023 6663. A good place to pick up Indian art films.
- 3 Handicrafts (Between Sudder St and Surendranath Banerjee Road). It has several shops selling handicrafts. The largest is at the corner of Surendranath Banerjee Road.
- 4 Mirza Ghalib Street (Free School Street). It is famous for its second-hand bookshops and second-hand record stalls. Rummaging through the LPs for sale on the street, one may find real gems from the jazz age.
- 5 New Market, Bertram St, Lenin Sarani (E of Lindsay Street
). M–F 10:30AM–7:30PM, S 10:30AM–2:30PM. One of the oldest surviving markets in the city. Opened in 1874, it was named Sir Stuart Hogg Market after the commissioner Sir Stuart Hogg and it is still locally known as such. Although the beautiful fountain and benches at the market no longer exist, its popularity has not waned and the beautiful Gothic clock tower recalls the British heritage of the market. New Market is a good place to sample Indian sweet delicacies and generally soak up the atmosphere of Kolkata. There are also a few handicraft stalls inside. The market is in a large red brick building on Lindsay Street (the road parallel Sudder Street to the north). It has got over 2,000 stalls and is a bargain hunter's delight. The shops are arranged merchandise-wise. It is supposed to be the ultimate marketing experience in Kolkata. - 6 Shree Ram Arcade, 15A, Chowringhee Rd. Open from 10:00-20:00 from Tuesday to Saturday and from 13:00 - 20:00. on Mondays. Sunday holiday.. Full of garment shops.
- 7 Treasure Island. Open from 10:00-20:00. from Tuesday to Saturday and from 13:00 - 20:00 on Mondays. Sunday holiday.
Eat
[edit]- 1 Blue Sky Cafe, 3, Sudder St (on the corner of Chowringhee Ln). The food is cheap, the place is clean and the service is truly fantastic. Great if you are on an extended stay as they offer both Indian and some Western food. You will not find nicer waiters anywhere. Try the freshly squeezed juices.
- Curd Corner (near junction with Chowringhee Ln). This small hole-in-the-wall eatery is quite an institution in the area, and a generation of travellers have gorged themselves on the fresh and thick yoghurt. Check out the filter coffee and 'mock' cappuccino. Service staff don't speak English, which makes it hard when their menu is in English.
- 2 Chung-Wah, 13A, Chittaranjan Ave (Near Chandni Chowk metro station), ☏ +91 33 22377003. One of the oldest and best places to sample Chinese food. Drinks served.
- 3 K.C. Das Sweets, 11A&B, Chittaranjan Ave, Esplanade. Best known for its rasgullas, which is fondly called "rosogolla" (রসগোল্লা) in Bengali.
- 4 Mission Cafe, 20 Ganesh Chandra Ave, Bowbazar. Vegetarian fast food spot. Dosa, chaats and curry are served at high tables. The cafe is known for its chole bhature, a chickpea dish served in a phuchka shell. Turnover is fast here, not even stools to sit on, but it is nonetheless tasty.
- 5 Nizam's, Junction of Hogg St and Corporation Pl.
- 6 Raj's Spanish Cafe, 7, Sudder St (hard to find alleyway entrance close to intersection Mirza Ghalib St), ☏ +91 33 4001 4373. 8AM-10PM. Serves breakfast and espresso-based coffees. Mexican, pizza, and other Western staples. mains ₹100.
- 7 Rallis, Esplanade, 10D, Chowringhee Rd (metro: Esplanade 1 ). Vegetarian restaurant known for various kinds of snacks. Chats and South Indian foods are common. Famous for non-alcoholic drinks including various kinds of milkshakes.
Drink
[edit]- 1 Fairlawn Beer Garden, 13/A Sudder St (inside Hotel Fairlawn), ☏ +91 33 2252 1510. Only serves beer. Eccentric atmosphere with greenery everywhere. Famous among travellers and volunteers. Great place for meeting people and early evening drinking. Snacks and dinner available.
Sleep
[edit]| This guide uses the following price ranges for a standard double room: | |
| Budget | Under ₹2,000 |
| Mid-range | ₹2,000 to ₹5,000 |
| Splurge | Over ₹5,000 |
Budget
[edit]- 1 Astoria Hotel, Sudder St, ☏ +91 33 2252 9679, +91 90516 88123, astoria@hotmail.com. Clean, large, albeit drab, rooms with private bathrooms. It has variety of options for dining and also has fitness amenities. The hotel staff are usually considered helpful, though the receptionist is sometimes considered rude and unhelpful. ₹2,850-3,200.
- 2 Broadway Hotel, 27A Ganesh Chandra Ave, Chandni Chowk, ☏ +91 33 22363930, +91 33 2236 3931, contact@broadwayhotel.in. Check-out: 24 hours from when you check in. Despite lacking AC the very large rooms with high ceilings make for a great space and the price is definitely right. Don't miss the authentic ambience of the restaurant and bar of this 1937-built hotel. Supposedly due to the hotel's popularity rooms are often difficult to get unless you book ahead, however, try hanging around and see if one magically opens up while you're there (especially if you're first offered a more expensive room). Upper triple rooms have balconies. Also one of the few places which serves beer with a plate of sliced cucumber. ₹775 double with private bathroom.
- 3 Esplanade Chambers, 2 Chandni Chowk St, ☏ +91 33 2212 7101, +91 99 0313 2621, esplanadechambers@yahoo.co.in. Very clean and reasonably quiet rooms, albeit not massive. Has a free and reliable Wi-Fi service. The staff and the manager are considered very helpful and accommodating. Single from ₹1,400, double deluxe ₹2,200, breakfast incl.
- 4 Hotel Galaxy, 3, Stuart Ln (off Sudder St), ☏ +33 2252 4565. Clean, simple, and convenient location with AC rooms. Has kitchen and drinking water supply facilities. The hotel staff are considered helpful. ₹1,000-1,100.
- 5 Hotel Jaapon, 30F Mirza Galib St (at the end of Sudder St), ☏ +91 33 2252 0657, +91 33 2252 0658. Reasonably clean AC and non-AC rooms available with a very small private bathroom and cable TV. Beds are surprisingly comfortable given the thin and well-worn mattresses, but some rooms are chokingly musty - check before checking in. The hotel staff are not considered helpful. Single: ₹650, AC doubles: ₹1,100.
- 6 Hotel Maria, 5/1 Sudder St, ☏ +91 33 2252 0860. dorm ₹80, Very basic, creatively graffiti-ed rooms with and without attached bathroom from ₹300 as of Feb 2015. Grumpy service, cheap laundry, dank bathroom/toilet and no wifi. Very central location, takes no bookings, so arrive early (8:30AM onwards).
- 7 Hotel Modern Lodge, 1, Stuart Ln (off Sudder St), ☏ +91 33 2252 4960. Not very modern, but cheap and fairly clean. ₹150 for a single with a shared cold-water bathroom. ₹100-250.
Mid-range
[edit]- 8 DK international Hotel, 11/1A Marquis St (near to Colin St corner), ☏ +91 33 2252 2540, +91 33 2252 2666, dkinhotel@gmail.com. All rooms A/C and breakfast included. Close to the Bangladesh bus stations. There are better deals out there but not quite as new as this place. Double from ₹1,800+tax.
Splurge
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- 9 Elgin Fairlawn, 13/A Sudder St, ☏ +91 33 2252 1510, +91 33 2252 8767, fairlawn@cal.vsnl.net.in. The building dates to 1783 with many colonial-era relics. Single: ₹5,000-5,600, double: ₹7,550-8,400.
- 10 Housez 43, 43 Mirza Ghalib St, ☏ +91 33 2227 6020, +91 7595067173, booking.housez43@thesparkhotels.com. All rooms equipped with air-conditioning, TV, and private bath. Rates start at ₹4,950.
- 11 The LaLiT Great Eastern, ☏ +91 33 4444-7777. Built in 1841, the Great Eastern Hotel is one of the oldest hotels in Kolkata. The hotel has housed many famous personalities including Nikita Khrushchev and Nikolai Bulganin, Elizabeth II, Mark Twain, Dave Brubeck and possibly Ho Chi Minh.
- 12 Hotel Lindsay, 8A/8B Lindsay St, ☏ +91 33 3021 8666, sales@hotellindsay.com. The hotel is well-lit and clean. Its facilities, including a room minibar, hot water, tea and coffee, make it a good value four-star property. ₹4,600 double.
- 13 The Oberoi Grand, 15, Chowringhee Rd, ☏ +91 33 2249 2323, toll-free: 1800-11-2030, fax: +91 33 2249 9427, reservations@oberoigroup.com. US$375-1,375, ₹10,000.
- 14 Peerless Inn, 12 Chowringhee Rd, ☏ +91 33 4400 3900. From ₹10,000.
- 15 Hotel Walson, 5A Sudder St, ☏ +91 33 2252 1512, +91 99033 29977, bawawalson@bawahotels.com. Check-in: noon, check-out: noon. An upscale new venue that's breaking the trend from the Sudder St backpacker tide. 29 rooms ₹6,000-6,200.
Connect
[edit]There are other smaller internet cafes on Sudder St such as Net Freaks, but they are often very busy.
- 1 Gopal's Planet, 7 Tottie Ln (Coming from Sudder St, walk 50m (150ft) into Tottie Ln. On your left-hand side, same building as Raj's Guesthouse, ground floor), ☏ +91 9674273616, gopalsplanet@gmail.com. 8AM-11PM. Friendly, quiet internet cafe off Sudder Street with relatively modern computers, AC and free chai (with Wi-Fi, Skype, printers, phone calls, etc.). They also rent bicycles and sell train tickets. Their coffee and snacks are good as well.
- 2 Hotline Services, 7, Sudder St (near the Astoria Hotel, at the back of the parking lot between Roop Shringar clothing shop and Metro Beauty Parlour. Identified with a large illuminated sign in red). It has a room jam-packed with high-speed computers, and charges ₹15/hr. They also sell CDs of various styles of Indian music for around ₹150/each and have a selection of hand-woven material and cotton clothing from all over India. The hotline also provides a coffee and snack service.
Cope
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