17th arrondissement
The 17th arrondissement of Paris lies slightly off the beaten path, directly north of the Arc de Triomphe. However, if you want to see real Paris at some of its finest and wealthiest, this is where to go. There are no major sights to see, museums to go to, just amazing Haussmannian architecture, real French people, and that atmosphere of the quintessential Paris you've always imagined.
Beyond this the southwest and northeast ends of the arrondissement have quite different characters, with the southwest mainly known as a mid-range to high-end shopping district named for two major avenues which are lined with shops: Wagram-Ternes, feeling much like an extension of the Champs Élysées.
The northeast end, known as Batignolles is quite different, with a grungy bohemian feeling and lots of bars and bistros which are popular with bobos (short for bohemian-bourgeois aka "hipsters") from the 17th and elsewhere.
Get in
By plane
Although the 17th is not particularly close to any of the Paris airports, it is there where airport buses from Charles de Gaulle Airport (Les Cars Airfrance) and Beauvais-Tille Airport (the official shuttle bus) land, stopping at Porte Maillot (Les Cars also stop at Place de l'Étoile). If you want to start exploring right after getting off your airport shuttle bus, or head to the hotel without having to transfer further, the 17th is where you can start your Paris adventure.
By Transiliens
The suburban Transiliens train lines J and L cross the district on their way to Gare Saint-Lazare, but only Transilien J stops within the 17th at Pont-Cardinet. If you arrive on Transilien L, you have to go back a short distance from Saint-Lazare to find yourself in the 17th.
By RER
RER lines A and C cross in the 17th, but do not share a common station - the Line A runs from west to east along the southern boundary of the district, with a station at Place Charles de Gaulle, while the Line C runs from South to North closer to the western border of the district with stops at Neuilly – Porte Maillot, Pereire – Levallois and Porte de Clichy.
By Métro
Line 3 has stops at Pereire, Porte de Champerret, and Wagram among others.
See
Make sure you admire the many luxurious townhouses along the avenues, and relax in hidden small parks and squares sprinkled throughout the area. Many of Paris's upper class live in this district, and the architecture proudly shows this!
Do
- Marché Poncelet. Street market.
Buy
- Marché des Batignolles (rue Lemercier at rue des Moines). Tu-Sa 08:30-13:30, 16ː00-19:30. This covered market is known for its organic produce, and has fish and meat and a supermarket (G20) as well.
Eat
The 17th arrondissement has some of the finest Algerian cuisine in Paris. If you want a twist on French wine and food, go try some!
- l'Abadache, 89, rue Lemercier (Métro Brochant), ☏ +33 1 42 36 37 33. A French-English collaboration, the cooking is mostly in the French tradition, but with English cheddar and quite a bit of English inventiveness. Go for the polenta with sun-dried tomatoes. €30.
- Aux Couleurs du Monde, 118, rue Truffaut (Métro Brochant), ☏ +33 1 43 87 34 55. A Lao/Honduran restaurant with superb atmosphere, trendy decor, friendly service, and good food. It's not hard to understand why it's one of the most popular places with Batignolles bobos as well as people from outside of the quarter, at least judging by the number of taxis queued up late in the evening. €25.
- Le Bistral, 80, rue Lemercier, ☏ +33 1 42 63 59 61. Inventive cooking in the Spanish tradition and an intimate atmosphere are what distinguishes this little place from the dozens of bistros in the neighbourhood, but it's probably the genuinely caring, warm, service which will bring you back again and again. €35.
- 1 Bistrot des Dames, 18, rue des Dames (Metro Place de Clichy), ☏ +33 1 45 22 13 42. M-F 12:00-15:00, 19:00-23:00, Sa, Su 12:30-23:00. The romantic bistro offers simple seasonal plates and has a charming garden in summer time.
- Brasserie Wepler, 14, Place de Clichy (Metro Place de Clichy), ☏ +33 1 45 22 13 42. Excellent service, open late, Seafood specialities. Menu from €27.
- La Gaieté Cosaque, 6, rue Truffaut, ☏ +33 1 44 70 06 07. Traditional Russian food which runs heavily into various roasts and stews. This one is definitely for the carnivorous. After dinner the very Russian patron will surely coax you into enjoying a few too many of his fabulous vodkas. Save a little room for a glass of wine around the corner though. €20.
- Jaipur, 25, rue des Dames (Métro Place de Clichy), ☏ +33 1 42 94 13 14. noon-14:30; 19:00-midnight. The brothers who operate this Indian/Mexican restaurant are actually from Sri Lanka, but that doesn't seem to impact their ability to deliver on both of their favourite ethnic cuisines. When asked why Mexican, the youngest of the three (and the usual waiter) explained "because we like it". You will too. €20.
- A Joy in Food, 2, rue Truffaut (Métro Place de Clichy), ☏ +33 1 43 87 96 79. Lunchtime only. Vegetarian home cooking which leans heavily into Laurel's Kitchen territory. It's not the Potager du Marais (see Paris/3rd_arrondissement), but it's a close runner-up.
- Niv's, 8, rue des Batignolles (Métro: Place de Clichy), ☏ +33 1 42 36 37 33. A Franco-Italian bistro with high-end Italian dishes.
- O Batignolles, 89, rue Truffaut (Métro Brochant), ☏ +33 1 42 29 70 69. A new favourite among foodies in the area, O Batignolles wins high praise from reviewers not just for the inventive and ever changing menu, but also as a wine bar. €15.
- Le Réfuge, 34, rue Lemercier, ☏ +33 1 42 93 46 16. Till 05ː00. The drinks speciality here is an assortment of flavoured vodkas. The food, served in the spacious seating area in back is traditional, including a huge cheese platter.
Drink
- Le Bar Belge, 75, av Saint Ouen (Métro Guy Moquet), ☏ +33 1 44 70 06 07. Opened in 1954 as Paris was finally recovering from the occupation, the Bar Belge serves dozens of different Belgian beers, ales, and lambics in a locals-dominated, but very friendly room. They also have Vlaams Frites, the original "french" fries. Free Wi-Fi.
- Les Caves Populaires, 22, rue des Dames. Till 02ː00. A major bobo hangout, this one specialized in wine as opposed to the more beer-oriented Lush.
- James Joyce Pub, 71, boul Gouvion St Cyr (Across from the Palais de Congres), ☏ +33 1 44 09 70 32. Also serves standard Irish pub food. They screen Irish and English football and soccer.
- Le Kloog, 63, rue Guy Môquet (Métro Guy Môquet), ☏ +33 1 42 29 59 18. This cosy and well-designed little space specializes in wholesome organic treats. Vegetarian deli and free Wi-Fi.
- Sans Gêne, 112, rue Legendre, ☏ +33 1 46 27 67 82. The name means "without annoyance", but given the shared toilet space perhaps it should be rethought. Still this second location for the popular Oberkampfian drinking spot has a lot going for it including clean trendy decor and more importantly free Wi-Fi.
- Lush, 16, rue des Dames, ☏ +33 1 43 87 49 46. Grungy atmosphere and a well thought out selection of beers and tunes have made this a popular space with the bobo crowd. There's not much in the way of furniture, so it's standing room only when the place gets hopping. Of course that means you can fit more hipsters per square meter.
Sleep
Hotels and other accommodation facilities in the 17th are mostly to be found clustered at the extremities of the arrondissement, near the attractions - the Place de l'Étoile the Palais du Congress and Place de Clichy (Montmartre). Those provide reasonable connections to the rest of Paris, especially Place de l'Étoile. While cheaper accommodation can be found deeper into the 17th, do make sure that it has effective transportation connections you will need to visit your points of interest.
Budget
- 1 Hotel Eldorado, 18, rue des Dames (Métro Place de Clichy), ☏ +33 1 45 22 35 21. A former maison de rendez-vous, a home to the kept women of the 19th century bourgeois. Now a very cute no star hotel, its charm more than makes up for what it lacks in amenities (who needs a TV in Paris anyway?). The staff is super friendly, the decor is garage sale chic, and there's a lovely courtyard that fills with neighbourhood hipsters on warm evenings. It also has a very good location & you can easily avoid the noise of Pigalle or Montmartre's high prices, but they're within stumble distance if you decide to explore. For early risers breakfast (€5, until 10ː00) is served in the attached restaurant/bar. Some English spoken, especially for those who pet the cat sprawled across the reception desk. €23-79.
- 2 Hotel Elysées Parc Monceau, 38, rue Cardinet, ☏ +33 1 47 63 88 60. Three star charm in an outstanding residential district, just around the corner from Parc Monceau.
- 3 Hotel Prince Albert Monceau, 9, rue Tarbe. Free Wi-Fi.
- Holiday Inn Paris - Montmartre, 23 Rue Damremont Paris, 75018, ☏ 1 877 834 3613.
Mid-range
- 4 Hôtel Acacias Etoile, 11, rue des Acacias (Métro Argentine), ☏ +33 1 43 80 60 22, fax: +33 1 48 88 96 40, hotel.acacias.etoile@wanadoo.fr. A clean, well run hotel in the side streets near Place Charles de Gaulle. The staff is friendly, the rooms aren't large, but they are immaculate. €129, no breakfast; breakfast is €12 extra.
- 5 Hotel Ampère, 102, av de Villiers, ☏ +33 1 44 29 17 17. One of the most inexpensive luxury 4 star hotels in Paris. A garden in the heart of the elegant 17th arrondissement, not far from the Arc de Triomphe and the Champs Elysées.
- 6 Mercure Paris Arc de Triomphe Etoile, Avenue des Ternes 27. Modern rooms featuring frosted glass and stiff curtain dividers between sleeping areas and bathrooms, which may not be to everybody's liking. The most expensive rooms enjoy terraces with views over the 17th all the way to La Defense. €134-.
- 7 Novotel Paris 17 Porte d'Asnières, Avenue Porte d 'Asnières 34. A typical Novotel in a faraway corner of the 17th, not really close to anything nor particularly conveniently located.
Splurge
- 8 Hyatt Regency Paris Etoile (former Concorde Lafayette), Place du Général Kœnig 3. The tallest hotel in Paris is the lone skyscraper in the northwest of Paris, adjacent to the Palais du Congres. It enjoys an unobstructed line of sight towards the Eiffel Tower from the rooms facing it and its top-floor bar. After Hyatt took over the property, it is being gradually updated, but still not entirely up to the best Hyatt worldwide standards.
- 9 Le Méridien Etoile, Boulevard Gouvion Saint Cyr 81 (metro/RER Porte Maillot). The very first Le Meridien in the world, built in 1972 to cater for Air France passengers arriving on the newly-acquired widebody jets. Behind the distinctive 1970s facade are updated rooms and common areas with contemporary design and facilities. The hotel faces the Palais du Congres and caters mostly for business travellers and less so to tourists than other Starwood properties in Paris. This is the largest hotel by room count in Paris, with 1,025 rooms of various types. The less expensive Classic and Deluxe rooms have more dated decor, the Urban and Executive rooms have been thoroughly updated to 21st century standards.
- 10 Renaissance Paris Arc de Triomphe, Avenue de Wagram 39. The Renaissance is a thoroughly modern property with floor-to-ceiling windows in the posh Avenue Wagram, just a short walk from Place de l'Étoile. The building was designed by the same Christian de Portzamparc who gave the Palais du Congres its current appearance.
Connect
- Le Bar Belge (see Drink listing). Free Wi-Fi for customers.
- Le Kloog (see Drink listing). Free Wi-Fi for customers.
Go next
| Routes through 17th arrondissement |
