Phuentsholing (also sometimes spelled Phuntsholing), the second largest town in Bhutan (population around 30,000), is on the Indian border, next to the town of Jaigaon.

Phuentsholing

Understand

Phuentsholing is the point of entry for travelers arriving by bus from Kolkata and Siliguri and the town functions primarily as a place where Bhutanese and Indians do business. With a population approaching 30k, it is the second largest city in Bhutan, after Thimphu. The town itself is actually nothing more than a jumble of concrete, non-descript buildings squashed in a small area between mountains and the border; it also lacks a dzong, famous monastery, or in fact anything of particular interest to tourists. However, like all of Bhutan, it does offer a clean and safe environment in which to go about your business. Until the late 1950s, the town was called Jaigaon-Bhutan.

Get in

Entry procedure

The information below is relevant only to guests, non-Indian foreign nationals with visa clearance documents, or those with a work permit. Bhutan does not operate a visa on arrival system, and visitors without correct documentation will be denied entry. The border immigration is open twenty-four hours.

1. Receive exit stamp from Indian immigration office (see 'Cope' on Jaigaon page)
2. Inside the Bhutanese immigration complex, travellers are directed to a tourist area where there is an information desk, immigration officials, a currency exchange and waiting area.
3. Present your visa authorisation document.
4. Travellers are not be permitted to leave the immigration complex building without a guide

Indian nationals do not require a visa to enter Phuentsholing, but they do require proof of citizenship, such as a voter card or passport, to travel beyond the town. In Phuentsholing, they will be issued a permit to visit other parts of the country. There is a Nu1,200 per day SDF fee to go beyond Phuentsholing and after the first night in the town (The Nu1,200 per day SDF fee is wavered for the first night in Phuentsholing). A guide is a requirement to travel to other parts of the kingdom - Nu2,000 per day. A list of guides is available at the immigration office.

By bus

Before entering Bhutan, non-Indians are required to receive an exit stamp in their passports at the Indian immigration office. Therefore, when getting on the bus, inform the driver that you'll be getting off in Jaigaon, and so your luggage should be placed in an area from where it can be removed easily - certainly not under piles of luggage of passengers going to the final destination. Request the driver to let you off near the Indian immigration office (next to the movie theater). It is a five-minute walk from there to Bhutan gate.

• From Kolkata. The Bhutan Government runs a direct service from Kolkata to Phuentsholing, with buses departing Esplanade Bus Station at 7PM on Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday, with the return journey starting from Phuentsholing Bus Station at 3PM on Monday, Wednesday and Friday. The journey takes around 17-18 hours and costs ₹2,000. The buses are comfortable, but during the monsoon, road conditions can be difficult and so the journey may take much longer than 18 hours. (updated Oct 2024)
• From Siliguri. Buses depart at 7:30AM and 2PM every day from opposite Golden Plaza on Burdwan Road (behind Air View More). Tickets are sold at a counter near the bus parking area, and it costs ₹350 for the four-hour journey. See 'Go next' on Siliguri page for more information. (updated Oct 2024)
• From Thimphu. Japanese coaster buses depart Thimphu bus station roughly every half hour in the morning, and every hour in the afternoon, starting at 5:50AM until 4PM. Around Nu510 for the 5 hour journey. Toilet break en-route. Immigration check posts before the town, so need to carry passport and route permit, or ID. (November 2024)

Taxi

Thimphu: A shared taxi from Thimphu bus station costs Nu800-Nu900, while a reserved one costs around Nu3,600. Five hours. There are two immigration check posts before the town, so need to carry passport and route permit, or ID. (November 2024)

Siliguri: Around ₹4,000 from Bagdogra Airport or NJP/Siliguri JN Stations.

By train

The nearest railway station to Phuentsholing is at Hasimara, which is approximately a 30 minutes bus/auto ride. See Jaigaon page for more information.

There are around 50 trains each week departing from Siliguri Junction or New Jalpaiguri Station (also in Siliguri) which stop at Hasimara. The journey takes between 3 and 4 hours.

Get around

On foot

The town center can easily be covered on foot.

Taxi

The taxi fare for journeys within the core area of the town, which includes the bus station and immigration terminal, is Nu100.

See

• Amo Chuu - a Crocodile Breeding Centre on the banks of the river behind the bus station. The crocodiles are bred in order to be released in a nature reserve.

• 1 Bhutan Gate. A traditional-style Bhutanese gate, used as a gateway between India and Bhutan. (updated Jan 2023)

• Chukha Hydrothermal Project.

• Karbandi Monastery. After an Indian pilgrim became pregnant after praying at this monastery to conceive, the temple has become a regular port of call for couples wishing for children. For those who do not have parental ambitions, the view from the monastery over Phuentsholing and the Bengal Plain is still worth making the trip. The monastery is located a short distance above the town. Take a cab up and walk back.
• Zangthopelri Lhakhang This town centre temple represents the Copper Coloured Mountain, otherwise known as the pure land of Guru Rinpoche. On the ground floor there are statues of eight manifestations of Guru Rinpoche and paintings on Buddha's life while the next floor contains eight bodhisattavas and statues of Avalokiteshvara and Shabdrung Ngawang Namgyal. On the top floor, there is a statue of Amitabha.

Do

• Wander round the town and plan your journey in or out of the country.

Buy

Handicrafts

• Ama Handicrafts, Gatoen Lam (turn to the left after exiting the immigration terminal. Ama is a one minute walk on the right). ☏ +975 17847895. Small handicraft shop. Yethra bags, purses, and trinkets.
• Anil Stores, Phuensum Lam, (across from Kizom Cafe). ☏ +975 17601105. Small selection of trinket-type souvenirs. Wallets and purses made from Bhutanese woven cloth.
• Tshela Handicrafts, next to Kizom Cafe. Items tending towards cheap souvenirs. Buddhist ritual utensils.

The town offers a wide range of electrical goods and computers from Bangkok, which are generally cheaper in Bhutan than in India. There are also a number of supermarkets that stock imported food items and a fresh vegetable and fruit market with local and Indian produce.

Eat

Being on the Indian border, the town has a great selection of Indian restaurants. However, like most of Bhutan, Phuentsholing starts late, and so travellers requiring an early breakfast (before 8:30-9AM), should cross into Jaigaon, where most restaurants open early.

• Log Cabin, GF, Hotel Kuenga, Tharpai Lam (Opposite the entrance to Zangtopelri), ☏ +975 5 252-387. 10AM-11PM. Log cabin-style interior. Indian, continental, Bhutanese, and Chinese cuisine. Espresso-based coffees. Cocktails. Desserts. . (updated Nov 2024)
• Times Kitchen, Tharpai Lam (rear of Zangthopelri Park), ☏ +975 17117373. Stylish restaurant with views over Zangthopelri Temple. Excellent Indian and Chinese cuisine. Polite and efficient service. (updated Oct 2024)

Drink

Coffee

• Cafe Wookpa, Goedoe Lam, Main Town (near corner with Norkhil Lam, approx 100 m from Park Hotel, opp Phodrang Shopping Complex.), ☏ +975 77390901. 11AM-10PM (later is there are customers). A cute little cafe with a heart. Healthy and delicious meals. Excellent coffee. Gluten-free options. Hand written menu on hand-made paper. Free WIFI. (updated Oct 2024)

• 1 Kizom Cafe, Main Town (in front of the Zangtopelri Complex). 8:30AM-9PM. A standard variety of espresso-based coffees. Excellent pastries and pizza. Pleasant environment. Free Wi-Fi, but only two electric plug sockets for the entire cafe. Open time is advertised as 8:30AM, but only ready to serve coffee by 9:30AM (updated Oct 2024)

Alcohol

The Bhutanese are generally very liberal consumers of alcohol, and so the town has a high number of bars. One can choose from a range of Bhutanese brands of whiskeys, rums, brandies, gins, and a peculiar green concoction called sonfy which one would be wise to avoid. Two whiskey brands, Special Courier, and CSJ, made with Scottish malt, are actually quite pleasant. More internationally recognized brands of alcohol are also available at some of the more reputed watering holes, such as the bars at Hotel Kuenga and at Hotel Druk-Bhutan.

Sleep

Budget

• Bhutan Hotel, Goedoe Lam, ☏ +975 5 252-576. Check-out: noon. Modern and clean. Excellent service. Centrally located, Small restaurant offering delicious Indian and Bhutanese cuisine. Bar. Free WiFi throughout. Nu1,200 per night. (updated Oct 2024)
• Central Hotel, PO Box 248, ☏ +975 5 252-172, centralhotel@druknet.bt. Old, but fully renovated hotel. Opposite Zangtopelri temple in centre of town. Popular with business types. 
• KC Hotel, Main town. Basic but clean rooms. Restaurant serves Bhutanese style meals and breakfast. Nu800-Nu1,000. (updated Nov 2022)
• Hotel Peljorling, PO Box 149 (near Bhutan Gate), ☏ +975 5 252-833. . 

Mid-range

• Hotel Bhutan Residence, ☏ +975 5 253688, +975 5 253689, fax: +975 5 253690, bhutanresidence@gmail.com. This new hotel has contemporary interiors, modern amenities and business facilities. The rooms are fully furnished with stylish modern fittings and A/C. Room Rate 10 minutes' walk from border gate. Nu.850-2000. 
• Midpoint Hotel (Dhamdara), ☏ +975-5-254903, +975 17616379 (mobile). Includes a swimming pool, a restaurant and a bar. from Nu.770/- to Nu.2000/. (updated Oct 2024)
• Hotel Druk-Bhutan (Dhamdara), ☏ +975 5254451, +975 5254496, +975 5251163. The hotel overlooks the Toorsa river and has a garden and mini-pool. (updated Oct 2024)
• Hotel Druk. The town's largest and one of the main tourist hotels - patio for sitting out - near Bhutan Gate (on the right when entering the town from Jaigaon).
• Hotel Kuenga, Tharpai Lam (Center of town. Opposite entrance to Zangtopelri.), ☏ +975 5 252293. One of the original hotels in town. Centrally located. Cafe and restaurant. (updated Nov 2024)
• Hotel Namgay, ☏ +975 5 252-374, hotel_namgay@yahoo.com. A pleasant hotel. Deluxe:2,000Nu & 2,500Nu. Standard:1,100Nu & 1,300Nu. 
• Lhaki Hotel, PO Box 187 (just above the downtown area), ☏ +975 5 257-111, lhakihotel@druknet.bt. A spacious tourist hotel. 1,800Nu for single. 
• Park Hotel, Norkhil Lam, Main Town, ☏ +975-77847475. Bright and elegant rooms. Friendly and helpful service. (updated Oct 2024)

Connect

• The area code for Phuentsholing is 05. When calling from overseas, dial +975 5 XXXXXX

Go next

Bhutan:

• Paro - Sacred sites, handicraft stores, international airport - bus (Dawa Transport: 9AM daily - Nu500 small A/C bus, Nu300 large non A/C) - 5 hours. Taxi options also available from taxi parking area.
• Jakar - The spiritual heart of Bhutan. First capital of the Wangchuck dynasty. Monasteries, dzong, sacred sites. 14-15 hours.
• Thimphu - The bustling capital city, shopping, dzongs, - buses every thirty minutes in the morning and every hour in the afternoon - first and last bus, respectively 5:30AM and 4PM (Nu500). Taxis from the taxi parking area - shared: Nu800-900, reserved: Nu3,200-3,600. Five hours. (Update Nov 2024)

India:

• Darjeeling - Former British hill station. A six hour journey. Direct buses and shared taxis from Jaigaon.
• Bodh Gaya - From November to March, pilgrimage tour buses ply the route to Bodh Gaya. Travel companies set up stalls in the town and in Jaigaon to promote their specific deals.
• Siliguri - A cosmopolitan city, large shopping malls, Buddhist monasteries, international airport - buses (Dophu Transport +975 77870211) at 7:30AM and 2PM (Nu350) - a four-hour journey. Taxis from Jaigaon - around ₹4,000.