Ruta Don Vasco
Ruta Don Vasco (also known as Ruta Tata Vasco) is an official itinerary through the state of Michoacan promoted by the federal Ministry of Tourism (SECTUR). The route follows the work of Vasco de Quiroga, the first bishop of Michoacan, who is widely respected and loved by the local people, particularly the Purhepecha indigenous community.
Understand
[edit]The route consists of a core axis of major cities and side trips to nearby towns and villages. The major cities are Morelia, Patzcuaro, and Uruapan. (The route officially includes Cuitzeo, but as a traveler, I'd rather start in Morelia and then go to Patzcuaro.)
The side trips are basically two widely separated loops. The first one, centered around Patzcuaro is referred to as "Alma de Vasco". It includes Morelia, Tupátaro, Pátzcuaro, Santa Clara del Cobre, Zirahuén, Tzintzuntzan, and Santa Fe de la Laguna.
The second loop is centered on Uruapan and is referred to as "Esencia Purepecha". It includes Tingambato, Uruapan, Paracho de Verduzco, Nurio, Cocucho, Charapan, Zacán, and Nuevo San Juan Parangaricutiro.
Vasco de Quiroga
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Most foreigners scratch their heads wondering, "Who the heck is this guy Don Vasco?" Well, back in the early 16th century, Spain dominated the American continent. Shiploads of conquistadors conquered the native American cultures while shiploads of missionaries settled vast territories while spreading Christianity. Vasco de Quiroga was a Spanish priest who was appointed first Bishop of Michoacan. At the time, Michoacan was a wild frontier that was Purhepecha territory. The Purhepecha had never been conquered by the Aztec and they initially resisted the Spanish as well.
Vasco de Quiroga became a protector of the Purhepecha, arguing for King Carlos V to ban slavery in New Spain, insisting on humane treatment of indigenous communities, and promoting ideals of utopian societies that he read about in the works of Thomas More. Tata Vasco (Father Vasco) conceived of the idea of organizing villages into specialization of certain crafts so that economic stability could be achieved. Today, some 500 years after Don Vasco's time, many of those specialized trade villages continue to practice their trades in the Lake Patzcuaro region.
Get in
[edit]The nearest airport with good commercial connections is in Morelia (MLM IATA). From Morelia, you could rent a car or use a bus to get to Patzcuaro and/or Uruapan, then use local taxis or combis to visit towns on the route.
Sights
[edit]- 1 Ruta de Don Vasco Centro Interpretacion (Visitor Center), Patio del Ferrocarril, Revolución, Patzcuaro, ☏ +52 434 132 8013. Tu-Su 09:00 - 17:00, closed M. Official welcome center for the itinerary, though it lacks exhibits, interpretive materials, or even maps and informational brochures.
- 2 Casa de los Once Patios, Calle de las Altas Torres, Patzcuaro. Daily 09:00 - 19:00. Famous shop in Patzcuaro selling locally made artesanias from all the local villages around Lake Patzcuaro. See examples of pottery made in Tzintzuntzán, guitars made in Paracho, copper pans made in Santa Clara De Cobre and many more specialized crafts of local villages.
- 3 Plaza Vasco de Quiroga (Zocalo). Patzcuaro's plaza principal (town square) is named in honor of Don Vasco and a statue of the beloved bishop stands in the plaza's fountain.
- 4 Basílica de Nuestra Señora de la Salud (Basilica of Our Lady of Health). Beautiful 16th century church built by Father Vasco. Stunning series of ceiling paintings in the main nave. Famous for its image of the Virgin made from a local corn paste. Intricate wood work, iron gates, stained glass windows. Commanding views from its hilltop setting.
Stay safe
[edit]Parts of Michoacan are claimed as the territory of notorious drug cartels and violent incidents have occurred in the state. Morelia, Patzcuaro, and the villages around Lake Patzcuaro remain quite safe for most travelers. Travelers should exercise caution in Uruapan and avoid traveling into rural areas beyond Uruapan, particularly at night.