Limerick
Limerick (Luimneach) is a city in County Limerick in the Shannon Region of Ireland, with a population in 2024 of 60,314. It's a miniature Dublin with its Georgian streets, historic sights, and many visitor amenities, and is a good base for visiting its surrounding county plus County Clare and County Tipperary.
Understand
[edit]
Limerick grew up at the limit of tides and navigation of the River Shannon. In the 9th century the Vikings first raided it then settled, calling it Hlymrekr which probably means low-lying and fertile. As elsewhere in Ireland, they were overthrown by the native Irish in the 10th and 11th centuries, who in turn came under the rule of the Anglo-Normans. In 1205 King John ordered the construction of the castle on the river island in the Shannon, and the English settled in this area of King's Island, with their "Englishtown" protected by massive walls. South across the small River Abbey lay "Irishtown", with the natives firmly put in their place.
Limerick became a prosperous port, so it was worth fighting for. Some of the many conflicts were the proxy war that was part of the medieval England—Scotland wars; a siege as Oliver Cromwell crushed Royalist opposition in Ireland; and the siege which was the last stand of King James II/VII forces against William of Orange, ended by the Treaty of Limerick in 1691. Supposedly this was signed over the "Treaty Stone", which now stands near Thomond Bridge.
The city benefited from local agriculture and by growing trade with North America, with Irishtown rebuilt on a grid pattern as a Georgian city comparable to Dublin, and fine public buildings. It slumped with the Napoleonic wars, with the draining of political power to England, and with the great Irish famine of 1847. Not until mid-20th century did it redevelop, as transatlantic flights began from Shannon and new industry was attracted in to replace bygone trades.
It's spawned many great writers and poets: Michael Hogan (1828-1899) the satirical Bard of Thomond, Jim Kemmy (1936-1997) author of The Limerick Anthology, Frank McCourt (1930-2009) author of Angela's Ashes, 'Tis and Teacher Man. Other famous local people include the actor Richard Harris, TV presenter Terry Wogan, statesmen Éamon de Valera and Michael D Higgins, and physician William Brooke O'Shaughnessy who pioneered IV therapy and the medical use of cannabis. What the place didn't spawn was limerick verse, which evolved in 18th-century England, presumably from a nonsense lyric that referred to the city or county.
This is Limerick is the tourist office, within the castle.
Get in
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By plane
[edit]1 Shannon Airport (SNN IATA) is near Shannon town, 25 km west of Limerick along N18. It has flights from Europe and the UK, and from New York, Newark and Chicago. All the main car rental firms have offices at the airport.
To town, Bus Eireann 343 runs every 30 min between 8AM and midnight, taking an hour via Bunratty; some may start from Ennis. Bus 51 between Galway, Limerick and Cork also stops at the airport hourly.
Dublin Airport (DUB IATA) has a wider selection of flights and is served by Flightlink Bus 723 direct to Limerick, 2 hr 30 min.
By train
[edit]Hourly trains from Dublin Heuston take two hours. A few are direct but usually you take the train for Cork and change at Limerick Junction (25 km east of Limerick, near Tipperary); change there also from Waterford. See Irish Rail for timetables, fares and online tickets.
Five trains a day run from Galway, taking 2 hours via Athenry, Gort and (more frequently) Ennis.
Two trains a day M-Sa and one on Sunday run from Ballybrophy on the Dublin-Cork line via Roscrea and Nenagh.
2 Limerick Colbert railway station, Parnell St. The station ticket office is open M-F 6AM-6PM, and there are machines, toilets and a Starbucks. It's a terminus station with step-free access to all platforms. 
By bus
[edit]Dublin Coach M7 ("Big Green Bus") runs every 30 min from Dublin Burgh Quay, taking 2 hr 45 min via Heuston railway station, Kildare, Annacotty and UL campus at Castletroy. The last bus departs at midnight. The bus stop in Limerick is Arthur's Quay, M7 doesn't use the bus station. Alternate buses branch here for Bunratty and Ennis, or for Adare, Newcastlewest, Abbeyfeale, Killarney and Tralee. See above for the direct bus from Dublin Airport.
Bus Eireann 51 runs hourly from Cork via Mallow, 2 hours, and continues north to Shannon Airport, Ennis and Galway, 80 min.
Bus 13 runs from Tralee every two hours, and Bus 14 from Killarney and Kerry Airport every two hours, both via Abbeyfeale, Newcastlewest and Adare.
Bus 55 runs every two hours from Waterford, taking 2 hr 30 min via Carrick-on-Suir, Clonmel, Cahir and Tipperary.
Bus 72 runs three times a day from Athlone, taking 2 hours via Birr and Nenagh.
Limerick bus station is at Colbert next to the railway station.
By car
[edit]From Dublin, N7 is all motorway once you get past Naas, 200 km or 3 hours in all. Other major routes from Limerick are N18 / M18 to Shannon Airport, Ennis and Galway, N20 to Mallow and Cork, N21 to Tralee and Killarney, and N24 to Tipperary and Waterford.
Get around
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Walking will get you everywhere in city centre.
Bikes need to be rented weeks in advance. There is only one bike rental shop in town.
By bus
[edit]Bus Éireann operate frequent buses in Limerick. All routes run via city centre:
- Bus 301 from Raheen and University Hospital Limerick in the southwest to Westbury in the north, every 30 min daily.
- Bus 302 loops west from Henry Street in city centre via University Maternity Hospital, Thomond Park, Limerick Institute of Technology, Caherdavin and back to Sarsfield Street in the centre, every 20-30 min daily.
- Bus 303 runs from Pineview in the northwest to O'Malley Park in the southeast, every 20-30 min daily.
- Bus 304 runs from Raheen and Ballycummin in the southwest to Castletroy and the University of Limerick in the east, every 30 min daily. Bus 304A is similar, from Raheen via University Hospital.
- Bus 305 runs from St Mary's Park in the north to Lynwood Park in the east, hourly daily.
- Bus 306 runs from Ballynanty in the northwest to Edward Street in the south city centre, hourly daily.
- Bus 313 runs from Arthur's Quay in city centre to Ardnacrusha in the north, 4-5 times Monday to Saturday.
TFI website has a map of the city bus network.
Cash fares within the city are €2.40-2.80 adult and €1.40-1.70 child, while if paying with a TFI Leap Card are €1.68-1.96 adult and €0.98-1.19 child. On TFI Leap Card, 24-hour, 7-day and monthly tickets are also available.
By taxi
[edit]Fares are nationally regulated and taxis must use the meter. Until Sep 2024, fares M-Sa 8AM-8PM are €4.20 flagfall then €1.30 per km. In slow traffic or if asked to wait they charge by the minute, 46 cents. At all other times it's €4.80 flagfall then €1.71 per km, waiting 60 cents per min.
See
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- 1 King John's Castle, Nicholas St V94 FX25, ☏ +353 61 370 501. Nov-Feb 10AM-5PM, Mar-Oct 9:30AM-6PM. Built in the 13th century by King John over a Viking fortification. The walls, well bashed about over the years, enclose a large courtyard. Adult €15, conc or child €11.
- Widows Alms Houses just south of the castle were built in 1691 to house soldiers' widows.
- 2 Catherine McAuley House 100 m east of the castle is a home for elderly nuns, embellished by a vivid mural. There are stretches of the old city walls alongside, including a sally port.
- 3 St Mary's Cathedral, Bridge St V94 E068, ☏ +353 61 310 293. M-Sa 11AM-4PM. Anglican cathedral founded in 1168, with the tower added in the 14th century. Features include the ceremonial Great West Door, the limestone-slab original altar, and the chandeliers. Buried in the nave is the last High King of Munster, Domnall Mór Ua Briain (d 1194). Sunday service is from 11AM, no visiting then. Adult €5, child free.
- 4 Hunt Museum (Iarsmalann Hunt), Customs House, Rutland St V94 EV8A, ☏ +353 61 312 833. Tu-Sa 10AM-5PM, Su 11AM-5PM. Formed from the personal collection of John and Gertrude Hunt, ranging over Classical, Irish prehistoric and early Christian, and Olmec. Plus rotating exhibitions. Adult €12.50, conc €10, under 16s free.
- 5 St John's Cathedral (Ardeaglais Seán Naofa), Cathedral Place V94 H521, ☏ +353 61 414 624. This impressive Roman Catholic cathedral is in neo-Gothic style and has the tallest spire in Ireland at 94 m (308 ft). Built in 1861 and designed by Philip Charles Hardwick, it has been in continuous use since. Six bishops are buried here.
- 6 Limerick City Gallery of Art (Gailearaí Ealaíon Chathair Luimní), Carnegie Building, Pery Sq V94 E67F, ☏ +353 61 310 633. M-Sa 10AM-5PM, Su noon-5PM. Displays all Irish artists, plus large collections of posters and contemporary drawings. Free.
- People's Museum of Limerick (Músaem na nDaoine Luimnigh), 2 Pery Sq V94 HF53 (just south of art gallery), ☏ +353 833 994 186. Tu-Sa 10AM-4PM, Su noon-4PM. Extensive collection of city life, including exhibits on Frank McCourt which are no longer have a separate museum. Adult €5, conc €3.
- 7 O'Connell Street
is lined with confident Georgian architecture. The Daniel O'Connell monument perches at the top of the street. - 8 Treaty Stone next to Thomond bridge is a rough limestone block used for mounting horses. It was supposedly upon this stone that the Treaty of Limerick was signed on 3 Oct 1691, ending the siege of the city and the war between the Jacobites and William of Orange. The Treaty permitted the defeated Jacobite soldiers to leave for France (which most did), or to enlist in William's army, or to go home. It also ensured protection of the defeated Catholic gentry provided they swore allegiance to King William. But few did so, the Pope proclaimed James as the rightful king, the Catholics were oppressed, and the conflict rumbled on for the next 300 years.
- 9 Ardnacrusha is a dam and hydroelectric power station, upstream in County Clare but more easily accessed from Limerick. Built 1924-29 just after independence, it changed not only the lower Shannon, but the entire face of rural Ireland through electrification. A canal lock takes boats through the 30 m drop in river level, and there are fish ladders for the salmon and eels. There are tours of the power station.
Do
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- What's on? Listen to Live 95 FM on 95.0 MHz, or read Limerick Post or Limerick Leader.
- Belltable, 69 O'Connell St V94 FK0H, ☏ +353 61 953 400. Performing arts theatre.
- The Peoples Park is south of the centre by the Gallery of Art.
- 1 Munster Rugby, Thomond Park, Cratloe Rd (one km west of city centre), ☏ +353 61 421 100. They play in the United Rugby Championship (formerly Pro14), the professional European league, and in the European Rugby Champions Cup. They usually play home games at Thomond Park, capacity 25,600, but some games are played in Cork. In 1905 future Irish President Éamon de Valera (1882-1975) was part of a distinguished Blackrock College team and had a trial for Munster, and was even considered for the national team as a full-back. Alas, he took up the much dirtier game of politics.
- Gaelic games: the County GAA team play hurling and Gaelic football at Páirc na nGael, capacity 44,000, on Ennis Rd 1 km west of city centre.
- Treaty United FC, Garryowen Rd, Markets Field V94 TP9W. This is the successor club to Limerick FC, who went bust in 2020. "The Shannonsiders" play soccer in the League of Ireland First Division, the Republic's second tier. Their Markets Field stadium (capacity 4500) is 1 km southeast of city centre. The playing season is March-Nov, with games usually on Friday evening.
- University Concert Hall has music, cinema, comedy and other events. It's on Castletroy campus 4 km east of city centre.
- UL Arena is a large sports facility on the University campus east of the city.
- 2 Limerick Races, Greenmount Park, Patrickswell V94 K858 (6 km southwest of city, from M20 take exit 4), ☏ +353 61 320 000, info@limerickraces.ie. Opened in 2001 and staging both flat-racing and National Hunt; the previous course at Greenpark closed in 1999.
Learn
[edit]- University of Limerick (Ollscoil Luimnigh) is based at Castletroy 3 km east of the city. Established in 1989, it has 16,000 students and 500 academic staff.
- Technological University of the Shannon (Ollscoil Teicneolaíochta na Sionainne) was established in 2021, with its Midwest campus on Moylish Park in Limerick, and others in Athlone, Thurles, Clonmel and Ennis. It incorporates the former Limerick Institute of Technology.
Buy
[edit]- Cruise's Street, pedestrianised, is the main retail strip.
- Arthur's Quay is a shopping centre on Patrick St, open M-Sa 7:30AM-10PM, Su 10AM-8PM.
- Milk Market is a covered market on Cornmarket Row, open F-Su.
- O'Mahony's is a good book shop at 120 O'Connell Street, open M-Sa 9AM-5:30PM.
Eat
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Budget
[edit]- 1 The Grove, 11 Cecil Street V94 Y322, ☏ +353 61 410 084. M-F 9:30AM-4PM. For yummy vegetarian food.
- Enzo’s, 60 William St V94 X922 (behind Cornstore), ☏ +353 61 414 942. Daily noon-8:45PM. Fast food, eat in or takeaway.
- 2 Melody, Foxes Bow V94 WN84, ☏ +353 857 599 754. Su Th F 4PM-midnight, Sa noon-midnight. Budget food in a pleasant setting.
- 3 Volcano Wings, 1-39 High St V94 VF38, ☏ +353 61 314 764. Daily 12:30-11PM. Good quality fast food.
- Luigi's, 44/45 Parnell St V94 H6KP (opposite railway station), ☏ +353 61 410 269. M-Sa noon-10PM. Good sit-in fish & chips cafe by the railway and bus stations.
- 4 Donkey Fords, 22 John's St V94 WD21. Tu-Su noon-9PM. Trad fish & chip takeaway.
Mid-range
[edit]- 5 The Locke Bar, 2A George's Quay V94 K8KX, ☏ +353 61 413 733. M-F 9AM-11PM, Sa Su 10AM-11:30PM. Gastro pub on riverside, often has live music.
- Rossi's, 8 George's Quay V94 C4HD (next to Locke Bar), ☏ +353 61 314 994. Tu-F 4-8:30PM, Sa 2-11PM, Su 1-10PM. Good Italian and European cuisine.
- Katie Daly's Heritage Pub and Kitchen, 12 Castle St V94 F7V7 (next to castle), ☏ +353 61 214 893. Daily 11AM-11:30PM. Trad menu, great atmosphere.
- 6 The Curragower, Clancy's Strand V94 TDF3, ☏ +353 877 014 723. Su-Th noon-11:30PM, F Sa noon-12:30AM. Trad cuisine with views over the Shannon. The name means "goats' crossing" but it would have to be a nimble goat to ford the river just here.
- 7 Cornstore, 19 Thomas Street V94 XR44, ☏ +353 61 609 000. Tu-F 5-7:30PM, Sa Su noon-9PM. Steak and seafood chain restaurant.
- Bella Italia, 43A Thomas St V94 D527 (opposite Cornstore), ☏ +353 61 418 872. Tu-Sa 10AM-6PM. Reliable Italian place. They have other branches at Castletroy and Greenpark.
- 8 Texas Steakout, 116 O'Connell St V94 DDW7, ☏ +353 61 410 350. Tu-F 4-10PM, Sa 2-10PM, Su 1-9PM. Steaks, burgers and Texmex cuisine.
- 9 Jasmine Palace, 38 O'Connell St V94 N8CC, ☏ +353 61 412 484. W-Sa 1-10PM, Su 1-9PM. Busy Chinese buffet restaurant.
- 10 Milano, Harvey's Quay V94 R1H1, ☏ +353 61 462 030. Daily noon-10PM. Pizza chain with vegan and GF choices.
- 11 La Piccola Italia, 56 O'Connell Street V94 F97C, ☏ +353 61 315 844. M-Sa 5:30-10PM. Traditional Italian fare earning great reviews.
Drink
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- Nancy Blakes, 19 Upper Denmark St V94 T284, ☏ +353 61 416 443. M Tu 11AM-12:30AM, W-F 11AM-2AM, Sa 10AM-2AM, Su 12:30PM-12:30AM. Popular and crowded. Live music most weekends.
- The Glen Tavern, 1-2 Lower Glentworth St V94 WF63, ☏ +353 61 411 380. M-F 9:30AM-midnight, Sa 11AM-1AM, Su noon-midnight. Trad Irish boozer with TV sport, pool table and decent food.
- The Old Quarter, 3 Little Ellen St V94 A3N3 (alley off Denmark St), ☏ +353 61 401 190. M-Th 9AM-11PM, F Sa 9AM-1AM, Su 1-11PM. Gastro pub with large outdoor area, does good breakfasts.
- Flannerys Bar, 17 Upper Denmark St V94 T9W3, ☏ +353 61 436 677. M-Th 10AM-12:30AM, F Sa 10AM-2:30AM, Su 1PM-12:30AM. There are several Flannery's pubs in town, this gentleman is specifically Michael Flannery. Large venue with 3 bars on two levels.
- Jerry Flannery's, 20 Catherine St V94 X751, ☏ +353 61 414 450. Su-Th 2-11:30PM, F Sa 12:30PM-1AM. Great pub for watching the rugby on TV.
- Micky Martin's, Augustinian Lane V94 HY28 (alley off William St), ☏ +353 858 012 693. M-Th 3-11:30PM, F Sa 1PM-12:30AM, Su 2-11PM. Good beer selection, Hoegaarden on tap, nice outdoor area.
- Tom Collins's Bar, 34 Cecil St V94 N5P3, ☏ +353 61 415 749. Su-Th 2-11:30PM, F 2PM-12:30AM, Sa 1PM-12:30AM. Grand traditional pub for relaxing.
- Dolan's Pub, 3-4 Dock Rd V94 VH4X, ☏ +353 61 314 483. W-F 4-11:30PM, Sa 2PM-2:30AM, Su 2-11PM. Has Irish trad live music and good food.
- The White House, 52 O'Connell St V94 NYH9, ☏ +353 61 546 825. M-F 4-11:30PM, Sa 2PM-12:30AM, Su noon-11PM. Busy pub with open mike nights and poetry nights. Wine and whiskey are as much a thing as the beer.
- Strand Hotel (see Sleep) is on Ennis St just north of Sarsfield Bridge on the way to Thomond Park, so its public bar is thronged with both home and visiting fans before and after a match. Those without tickets can watch the match on the large screen TVs.
- Charlie Chaplin's, 24 Chapel St V94 D2R1 (off William St), ☏ +353 61 419 885. M-Th 12:30-11:30PM, F 12:30PM-1AM, Sa 10AM-1AM, Su 1-11:30PM. Good friendly inexpensive bar.
- Charlie Malone's, 19 Wolfe Tone St V94 FFC0 (corner of Bowman St), ☏ +353 871 234 657. Su-Th 1-11:30PM, F Sa 1PM-12:30AM. Cozy friendly bar, often has Irish live music, Tuesday is open mike.
- Treaty City Brewery is at 24 Nicholas St by the castle. They have a tap room and offer tours, €23.
- Crew Brewing[dead link] is at 35 Thomas St. The tap room is open M-F 4-11:30PM, Sa 1PM-12:30AM, Su 1-11PM.
- Thomond Gate is a distillery producing small batches of Irish whiskey. No tours.
Sleep
[edit]Budget
[edit]- 1 Brookville House B&B, 31 Brookville Avenue, Clareview V94 Y36F, ☏ +353 61 452 160, nhorkan@eircom.net. Owner Nora is renowned for her hospitality and the full Irish breakfast comes highly recommended. Ensuite rooms with TV. Some street noise. B&B double from €65.
- 2 Travelodge Limerick Castletroy, Dublin Rd, Castletroy V94 Y83C (just west of Groody roundabout), ☏ +353 61 603 500. Budget chain hotel near university. Double (room only) €110.
Mid-range
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- 3 Clayton Hotel, Steamboat Quay V94 H6HN (off Dock Rd), ☏ +353 61 444 100, info@clarionlimerick.com. Smart hotel with health and fitness centre, pool, sauna, steam room and gym. B&B double €240.
- 4 George Hotel, Shannon St Y94 FC65, ☏ +353 61 460 400. Decent central hotel, rooms are small. With Italian restaurant. Parking in own garage nearby if you can find it. B&B double €240.
- 5 Greenhills Hotel, Ennis Road V94 X2RV (west edge of city), ☏ +353 61 453 033. Large mid-price hotel with conference facilities, steakhouse and bar. B&B double €130.
- 6 Kilmurry Lodge, Castletroy V94 WTC9 (off Dublin Road 5 km east of centre), ☏ +353 61 331 133. Pleasant, ivy-covered red brick hotel on the east edge of town, feels small and cozy although it's actually large. Pub, restaurant and nightclub on grounds, retail mall across main road. B&B double €180.
- 7 Maldron Hotel, Southern Ring Road, Roxboro V94 EDP4, ☏ +353 61 436 100, info.limerick@maldronhotels.com. Family friendly hotel with leisure centre, gym and swimming pool. Function rooms available for business meetings and conferences. B&B double €160.
- 8 Great National South Court, Raheen Gardens V94 E77X (4 km southeast of centre), ☏ +353 61 487 487. Decent mid-range place on business park beyond University Hospital. B&B double €140.
- 9 Strand Hotel, Ennis Rd V94 03F2, ☏ +353 61 421 800. Boxy modern building just west of Sarsfield bridge but comfy and convenient for centre, with leisure facilities and meeting rooms. B&B double €250.
Splurge
[edit]- 10 Savoy Hotel, 22 Henry St V94 EY2P, ☏ +353 61 448 700. Good modern central hotel, few lapses. B&B double €250.
- 11 No 1 Pery Square, 1 Pery Square V94 EKP9, ☏ +353 61 402 402. Chic hotel in Georgian terrace, excellent dining. No dogs. B&B double €200.
- 12 Absolute Hotel Limerick, Sir Harry's Mall V94 WP52, ☏ +353 61 463600. Upscale spa hotel in city centre. Scores well for comfort and service, parking sometimes a problem. B&B double €250.
- 13 Radisson Blu Hotel & Spa, Ennis Rd, Burtonhill V94 YA2R (jcn N18 & R445 towards airport), ☏ +353 61 456 200, info.limerick@radissonblu.com. Slick modern hotel west of city, handy for the airport. B&B double €170.
- 14 Castletroy Park, University Gates, Dublin Rd V94 Y0AN (near University 3 km east of centre), ☏ +353 61 335 566. Modern hotel with great service, leisure and conference facilities. Also has spacious suites with kitchenettes. B&B double €180.
Stay safe
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City centre is safe and cosy, even at nights and weekends. Standard advice: beware traffic, safeguard valuables and avoid the occasional drunk.
The police station (Gardai) is on Henry Street in the city centre. Their non-emergency number is +353 61 212 400. In emergencies dial the standard 112 or 999.
Connect
[edit]As of April 2024, Limerick has 5G from all Irish carriers. Wifi is widely available in public places.
Go next
[edit]- Drive west past Shannon Airport into County Clare and Ennis and take N68 to Kilrush and Kilkee. This brings you onto the wild Mizzen Head, with the grey Atlantic heaving below.
- On the road north towards Galway, stop to admire the Cliffs of Moher.
- Lough Gur, 15 km south of the city along R512, is a remarkable collection of Neolithic sites and artefacts.
- Along the south bank of Shannon, Adare is an attractive old town, pity about the traffic and the hordes.
- Nearby Foynes is where the transatlantic flying boats used to berth, and the likes of Sinatra and John Wayne stepped out to the pop of flash-guns; see the museum and step aboard a plane.
| Routes through Limerick |
merges with  ← |
SW  NE |
→ Nenagh →  Dublin |
| Galway ← Bunratty ← | NW  SE |
→ merges with  |
| END ← | N  S |
→ Mallow → Cork |
| Tralee ← Adare ← | SW  NE |
→ merges with  |
| END ← | NW  SE |
→ Tipperary → Waterford |