Mallaig
Mallaig (pronounced MEL-ig) is a ferry port and fishing village on the west coast of The Great Glen and Strathspey region of the Scottish Highlands, with a population of 660 in 2020. The name is Norse, Mel vik, sand-dune bay.
Get in
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By plane
[edit]The nearest practical airports are Glasgow (GLA IATA) 140 miles away and Edinburgh (EDI IATA) 180 miles away. Inverness (INV IATA) is within 100 miles but has few flights.
By train
[edit]Scotrail trains run from Glasgow Queen Street to Mallaig, taking 5 hr 20 min, with four M-Sa and two on Sunday. They split at Crianlarich, with one portion heading to Oban, so you need to be in the correct section via Fort William, Glenfinnan and Arisaig. Another train starts from Fort William. Trains and ferries are sometimes held for connections... and then again, sometimes not.
The Caledonian Highland Sleeper from London Euston (Su-F) reaches Fort William at 10AM (M-Sa), with the first onward train to Mallaig at midday. You can also take the Lowland Sleeper towards midnight, reaching Glasgow Central for 7:30AM, then continue on the daytime train.
The West Highland Line crosses impressive highland scenery, dramatic even in bad weather as the clouds swirl over stern mountains. It passes Loch Lomond, Rannoch Moor, Fort William beneath Ben Nevis, then across the Glenfinnan Viaduct, a hundred-year-old stone arched rail bridge. From up there you don't see much of the viaduct, but there are views down Loch Shiel to the left. You can day-trip here from Fort William for under £20 return in 2023.
- The Jacobite steam train (the "Harry Potter" train). This heritage train runs daily Apr-Oct from Fort William to Mallaig. It's a six-hour excursion (depart 10:15AM, return by 4PM) staying two hours in Mallaig, and in 2023 an adult trip was £57 standard, £89 first class; child £33 / £63. May-Sep there's also an afternoon train (12:50-6:50PM), so you could have 4½ hours in Mallaig, time for a boat trip. Trains also stop at Glenfinnan for the obligatory photo of the viaduct, and by request at Arisaig. The morning excursion connects with the Caledonian Sleeper from London.
- 1 Mallaig railway station is 100 yards from the ferry pier. It has a ticket office (M-Sa), waiting room and toilets. There is step-free access to the platforms.
By bus
[edit]Citylink buses run from Glasgow Buchanan station to Skye; get off at Fort William (3 hours) and change to the Shiel Bus. In summer the Citylink buses run daily every couple of hours, but only half of them have a speedy onward connection to Mallaig. So from Glasgow buy a through-ticket: the connection will usually be held. The first bus north from Glasgow is at 10AM arriving for 3PM, the last bus south from Mallaig is around 3:30PM for 10PM. Citylink and Shiel Buses also run between Inverness and Fort William taking two hours, 4-6 a day in summer.
Between Fort William and Mallaig, Shiel Bus 500 takes 90 min, adult return £8. In summer it runs four times a day M-F, but Sa Su only once. Sit on the right for views of Glenfinnan Viaduct. Bus 501 also runs three times a day between Mallaig and Arisaig.
The bus stop in Mallaig varies. A couple of buses connect with the ferry to Armadale in Skye, and run direct to the ferry terminal. Others stop outside the bank near the railway station before wandering off to the housing estate at Mallaigvaig.
By car
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Reaching Mallaig by road first involves reaching Fort William then following A830 west (past Glenfinnan) for the last 43 miles.
The route from Glasgow is by A82 north past Loch Lomond, Crianlarich and Glencoe. (From Glasgow Airport follow M8 west to cross the Erskine Bridge and join A82.) There's a choice of routes from Edinburgh; it's probably easiest to follow M9 past Stirling, then A84 via Callander and Loch Earn to join A85, which joins A82 at Crianlarich. (From Edinburgh Airport turn west to come onto M9.) From Inverness it's a straight run south on A82 past Loch Ness to Fort William.
Reckon to average at best 50 mph (80 km/h). You'll zip along the motorways but the A-roads are twisty and busy, with few opportunities to overtake safely.
By boat
[edit]CalMac car ferries sail from Mallaig to:
- Armadale on Skye, 45 min. Apr-Oct M-Sa there are nine sailings, Sunday six. Nov-March has 2 or 3 M-Sa and just one on Sunday.
- Lochboisdale on South Uist, 3 hr 30 min, once daily in summer. In winter it's usually once on W Sa Su, but no sailings for most of Nov or Feb. When this ferry's not sailing, reach South Uist via Oban.
- The Small Isles of Rùm, Eigg, Muck and Canna. Ferries sail daily throughout the year, but visit different islands on different days, so depending on route the crossing takes 2-4 hours. Don't take a car, use the free parking lot next to the ferry terminal.
- Inverie on Knoydart is on the Scottish mainland but has no road connection. The ferry (operated by Western Isles Cruises) sails year-round, with four M-F and two Sa Su, taking 30 min. One sailing M-F calls at Tarbet, similarly isolated on the other side of the loch.
Get around
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Mallaig is a small village, everything is within walking distance.
Car hire is available from Morar Motors[dead link], ☏ +44 1687 462118. They also have a base in Kyle of Lochalsh.
See
[edit]- Mallaig Heritage Centre, Station Rd PH41 4PY (by railway station), ☏ +44 1687 462085. Apr-Oct: daily 11AM-4PM. Tells the story of Mallaig and the surrounding area. Adult £2.50, conc £2, child free.
- 1 Morar is a little village 3 miles south of Mallaig: the trains and Shiel buses stop here. It has fine white beaches, and a short river rushes over waterfalls out of Loch Morar. It is almost 12 miles long and Britain's deepest freshwater lake at 1017 ft (310 m), a fjord scoured out by glaciation.
Do
[edit]- Ferry trips for marine-life spotting and scenery, even if you've no intention to stay. The ferry trip to Armadale gives you time to see the castle gardens. Western Isles Cruises who operate the ferry to Knoydart also have sight-seeing cruises.
- Golf: see Arisaig#Do for Traigh GC.
- Mallaig & Morar Highland Games are held at Lovat Games Field in Morar on the first Sunday in August, with the next probably on 3 Aug 2025, tbc.
Buy
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- The Co-op opposite the station is open daily 7AM-10PM.
- Mallaig also has a few souvenir shops, a Spar, post office, chemist shop and ships chandlers.
Eat
[edit]- Steam Inn, Davies Brae PH41 4PU, ☏ +44 1687 462002. Bar: daily 11AM-midnight. Bistro and bar, also has rooms. B&B double £130.
- Fishmarket Restaurant, Station Rd PH41 4QS (within Coop), ☏ +44 1687 462299. Daily noon-3PM, 6-9PM. Serving fresh fish and some non-fish dishes. Very nice food.
- Chlachain Inn, Davies Brae PH41 4QY, ☏ +44 1687 460289. Pub with grub, also has rooms. B&B double £90.
Drink
[edit]Chlachain Inn (above) has an outstanding collection of single malt whiskys.
Sleep
[edit]- Although some places close in winter, that's also when ferry connections are mostly likely to fail, so Mallaig landladies often rescue the stranded.
- Backpackers Lodge, Station Road PH41 4PU, ☏ +44 1687 462764. Bunk beds in mixed dorms. In 2022 they only accept full-dorm bookings. Dorm £25 ppn.
- Marine Hotel, 2 Station Rd PH41 4PY, ☏ +44 1687 462217. Clean welcoming place at the ferry pier. B&B double £100.
- West Highland Hotel, Davies Brae PH41 4QZ (east side of station), ☏ +44 1687 462210. A descendant of the original Victorian Station Hotel. Go for superior or classic rooms, the standard rooms are small. B&B double £120.
- Moorings Guest House, East Bay PH41 4QF, ☏ +44 1687 462225. Pleasant B&B open year-round.
- 1 Springbank Guest House, East Bay PH41 4QF (400 yards from ferry), ☏ +44 1687 462459, info@springbank-mallaig.co.uk. Welcoming, comfy, family-run B&B with 2 doubles and 2 twins all en suite. B&B double £115.
Connect
[edit]As of July 2023, Mallaig has 4G from EE, O2 and Vodafone, but the signal is poor on the approach highway, and there's nothing from Three. 5G has not reached this area.
Go next
[edit]- See the pretty coastline between Arisaig and Morar, especially the "Back of Keppoch."
- Glenfinnan on the road east to Fort William has a much-photographed railway viaduct.
- Skye: the ferry lands you in Armadale, with roads onward to Broadford and Portree.
- Small Isles: a day-trip may suffice, since they're well-named.