Whitianga is a seaside town in the middle of Mercury Bay on the east side of the Coromandel Peninsula in northern New Zealand. It has a deep water harbour from which cruising boats depart for trips around the scenic Mercury Bay coves and cliffs to Te Whanganui-A-Hei Marine Reserve and its abundant sea-life. The town is on Buffalo Beach and numerous beautiful beaches are nearby. With a permanent population of 5,000, it's the second biggest town on Coromandel Peninsula (after Thames) and the biggest on the east coast of the Peninsula, and hosts a variety of dining and accommodation options.

Understand

Buffalo Beach

Coromandel Peninsula is on the north-eastern coast of the North Island, due east from Auckland. Whitianga is north of other Peninsula towns Tairua and Pauanui. Mercury Bay is called such because Captain James Cook and his crew came here in November 1769 to make scientific observations of the transit of Mercury across the sun. On the other side of the harbour, which is accessible by a short passenger ferry trip, is Cooks Beach, which is also named after the visit by Captain Cook.

• 1 Whitianga i-Site Visitor Centre, 66 Albert St, ☏ +64 7-866 5555. 9AM-5PM daily. (updated Nov 2016)

Get in

By bus

• Intercity. Run twices daily each way from/to Thames, where there are connections to other places. Tickets can be purchased online or at agents including the i-site network. (updated Dec 2018)

By car

It is 40 km and about 40 minutes drive north of Tairua, and 14 km (16 min) south of Kuaotunu.

By plane

Sun Air has scheduled flights from Ardmore (Auckland), Great Barrier Island and Tauranga to Whitianga Aerodrome.

Get around

By boat

• Whitianga Ferries. Runs every 10 minutes. The ferry runs across Whitianga Harbour, between the Whitianga wharf on the Esplanade in the township and Ferry Landing on the Cook's Beach side. Adult $4 (return $6), child under 15 $2. (updated Jan 2019)

By scooter

There are scooters for hire at Ferry Landing, just a short way up the hill on the right. You only need a car drivers licence.

See

Whitianga town side of the harbour

• 1 HMS Buffalo memorial and anchor, Buffalo Beach Rd (near Halligan Rd). The HMS Buffalo wrecked near here in 1840. Remains of the ship still lie underwater in the bay. (updated Dec 2016)
• 2 Mercury Bay Museum, 11A The Esplanade. Daily 10AM-4PM except Good Friday, 25 Apr (Anzac Day), 25 Dec; winter 11AM-3PM except school holidays. Local history from early explorer Kupe, to later explorer Capt Cook, and onwards, also natural history. Adult $7.50, child $2. (updated Nov 2016)

Ferry Landing side of the harbour

• 3 Cooks Beach. A 3-km white sand beach suitable for swimming. (updated Dec 2016)
• 4 Shakespeare Cliff and Lonely Bay. A short track leads to a viewing point and a memorial to the visit of Captain Cook and HMS Endeavour in 1769. A track leads down to Lonely Bay. (updated Dec 2016)
• Maramaratotara Track. Turn right after getting off the ferry for a 3-km walk through bush with good views. Track can be slippery. (updated Dec 2016)

Do

• Banana Boat, Buffalo Beach, ☏ +64 7 866-5617. Daily between 26 Dec & 1 Feb. Fall off on the Hellbender or take the more relaxing Scenic ride. Run by Steve and Kali Young. $10-$30. 
• Buffalo Beach. This 3-km sandy beach adjacent to the town is safe for swimming. There are no huge bovines here – the beach is named after HMS Buffalo, which was wrecked here in 1840. (updated Dec 2016)
• 1 The Lost Spring, 121A Cook Dr. Day spa, geothermal pools and restaurant. (updated Dec 2016)

Scenic sea cruises

Cathedral Cove in Te Whanganui-A-Hei Marine Reserve near Hahei

Several operators run similar cruises, with some variations, around the cliffs and coves to Te Whanganui-A-Hei Marine Reserve and its abundant sea-life. The main cruises last between 2 and 2.5 hours, and some operators also run a 1 to 1.5 hour cruise early or late in the day, which may suit better if you are arriving or leaving Whitianga that day. All leave from Whitianga Wharf and some will also pick up from Ferry Landing if pre-arranged. If you are lucky, you may see dolphins or orca, but they are transient, rather than resident here. In May–Sep you may see fur seals. Some cruises offer snorkeling for 15 minutes to look at the marine life, with the gear provided – just take your togs (swimsuit) and towel.

• Cathedral Cove Scenic Cruises. 9:30AM, 1PM, 4PM (Double C, 7:30AM). The Triple C Cruise (Coves, Caves & Coastline) lasts 2.5 hours. The Double C Cruise (Cove & Coastline) last 1.5 hours. Adult $85, child $50 (Double C adult $60, child $35). (updated Dec 2016)
• Cave Cruzer Adventures. 10:30AM, 1:30PM (Express 9AM, 4:30PM). Scenic & Sounds Experience 2-2.5 hrs. Express Tour 1-1.5 hrs. Adult $80, child $45 (Express adult $60, child $35). (updated Dec 2016)
• Glass Bottom Boat. 10:30AM and 1:30PM all year, 8AM and 4PM Dec–Feb. A 2-hour trip in a boat that has a glass bottom so that you can see the marine life. It visits Shakespeare Cliff, Cooks Beach, Te Whanganui-A-Hei Marine Reserve (Cathedral Cove, Champagne Bay, Orua Sea Cave, Gemstone Bay). In summer you can go snorkeling for 15 minutes. Adult $95, child $50. (updated Dec 2016)
• Ocean Leopard Tours. 10:30AM, 1:30PM, 4PM (Whirlwind Tour 8:45AM). The Full Monty tour lasts 2 hours and visits Lonely Bay, Shakespeare Cliff, Cooks Beach, Hahei and Te Whanganui-A-Hei Marine Reserve (Cathedral Cove, Orua Sea Cave, Gemstone Bay). Option of snorkeling for 15 minutes. Also the Whirlwind Tour, lasting 75 min. Adult $90, child $50 (Whirlwind Tour $60, child $35). (updated Dec 2016)
• Sea Cave Adventures. 8AM, 11AM, 2PM (1+ Hour Cove Tour 4:30PM). Full 2+ Hour Tour or Short 1+ Hour Cove Tour. Adult $75, child $45. (updated Dec 2016)

Eat

Budget

• 1 Cafe Nina, 20 Victoria St. Daily 8AM–4PM (closes 3PM in colder seasons). Lovely quaint cafe in an old cottage with seating indoors and outdoors surrounded by greenery. (updated Feb 2017)
• 2 Espy Cafe, 10 Esplanade. Daily from 7:30AM, closing between 3:30PM & 5PM depending on day & season. On the waterfront esplanade, hence the name. Includes outdoor seating where you can watch the boats. Liquor license. Lunch $9.50–21. (updated Nov 2016)
• 3 French Fig, 41 Albert St. Daily 7:30AM–5PM. Nice cafe. (updated Nov 2016)
• 4 Jandals Cafe, 5 Albert St. Daily 7:30am–4pm. $12–22.50. (updated Nov 2016)

Groceries

• 5 Countdown, 24 Joan Gaskell Dr. Daily 7AM–9PM, closed 25 Dec. Supermarket. (updated Nov 2016)
• 6 New World, 1 Joan Gaskell Dr. Daily 7AM–9PM, closed 25 Dec. Supermarket. (updated Nov 2016)

Mid-range

• 7 Blue Ginger, 1/10 Blacksmith Ln. Lunch Tu-F 11AM–2PM, dinner Tu–Sa 5PM-late. Southeast Asian food. Mains $22–28. (updated Nov 2016)
• 8 Squids Bar & Restaurant, Shop 15, 1 Blacksmith Lane. Lunch M–F 11:30AM-2:30PM, dinner daily 5:30PM-9PM (may vary). Specialises in seafood. Lunch $15–18, dinner seafood main $26–28, steak $32, dessert $6–9. (updated Nov 2016)

Splurge

• 9 Poivre & Sel, 2 Mill Rd. Tu–Sa (with exceptions), occasionally Su, drinks from 5PM, dinner from 6PM. French cuisine from French restaurateurs. Expect fine dining rather than a hearty meal – you'll have room for dessert. Two courses $55, 3 courses $72. (updated Nov 2016)
• 10 Salt Restaurant & Bar, 2 Blacksmith Ln. W–Th from 4PM, F–Su from 11.30AM. Has a deck area looking out on the marina. Mains $29–42, dessert $16. (updated Nov 2016)

Sleep

• 1 YHA Whitianga, 46 Buffalo Beach Rd. Dorm beds from $24.30, rooms from $35.10. (updated Aug 2015)

Go next

• Hahei and Hot Water Beach – near the Marine Reserve, not far due west as the crow flies, but 35 km (about half an hour) by road – at Hot Water Beach, two hot springs come up through the sand near low tide, and you can hire a spade and dig your own hot pool
• Kuaotunu – to the north
• Tairua – very scenic location to the south