Tokyo/Shinagawa
Shinagawa (品川) is one of the 23 wards of central Tokyo, and is also a major railway station in south-central Tokyo. Historically, parts of this ward were known as Shimazuyama. Many feudal lords (daimyo) maintained estates in this area during the Tokugawa Shogunate. This area is the birthplace and former home of Sony.
Today, Shinagawa is a central train hub for Tokyo, possibly second only to Tokyo Station itself in the number of trains you can catch here. It is also a center of "European" style businesses and tourism, so you will see more English than Japanese on signs, and more Italian and American restaurants than Japanese ones.
Understand
Although Shinagawa is a ward of Tokyo, Shinagawa Station is actually in the ward of Minato: Shinagawa Ward is located to the southwest of Shinagawa Station, in the area surrounding Gotanda and Osaki on the Yamanote Line, surrounding Ōimachi on the Keihin-Tohoku Line.
Shinagawa is not a particular destination – rather a waystation, particularly when traveling to or from western Tokyo, or a place to live or stay, due to the excellent transport connections. However, it has a large number of services, and a few tourist attractions. It is a good place to stay, or to stop for a meal or drink at the start or end of a journey, but otherwise there’s little reason to come here.
The two sides of Shinagawa Station are quite different: the west or "Takanawa" side is mainly residential, with the exception of a sizeable hotel zoning immediately around the station. The east side or "Konan" side ranges from commercial to industrial, although many new modern residential apartments have been developed near the station and along its many water canals. Because of the many railway lines passing through, it is difficult to get from one side of the station to the other without walking through the station itself, so be sure to exit the station on the correct side for your destination.
Get in
By train
Shinagawa Station is served by Japan Railways (JR) and Keikyu Railway. JR runs trains to Shinagawa on the Yamanote, Keihin-Tohoku, Yokosuka, and Tokaido lines. Most Narita Expresses from Narita Airport travel directly to Shinagawa (75 min, ¥3,110). Shinagawa Station is also served by the Tokaido Shinkansen, making this a convenient jumping-off point for trips to Kyoto, Osaka and other cities along the line.
On the Yamanote line, Ōsaki and Gotanda stations are also in the area.
On the Keihin-Tōhoku line, Tokyu Ōimachi line and Rinkai line, Ōimachi stations are also in the area.
Keikyu Railways trains run south to Haneda Airport, Yokohama and points beyond. Keikyu also has through service with the Asakusa subway line and operates trains going as far north as Narita, making this a cheap, but much slower, alternative to the Narita Express. The trip between Shinagawa and Haneda Airport takes as little as 17 minutes and costs ¥400.
By bus
Several hotels in Shinagawa, as well as Shinagawa Station, are connected to Narita Airport via the "Airport Limousine" bus (85 min, ¥3,000)
- Shinagawa Bus Terminal (5 minutes walk from JR Shinagawa Station Takanawa Exit)
- Ticket office windows: 9AM-6PM
- Keikyu Bus(Japanese Website)
- JR Bus Tohoku(Japanese Website)
- Tohoku - Sendai
- Hankyu Bus(Japanese Website)
- Mie Kotsu(Japanese Website)
See
- 1 Hara Museum of Contemporary Art (原美術館, hara-bijutsukan), 4-7-25 Kitashinagawa (15 minutes walk from JR Shinagawa Station, near La Foret Hotel), ☏ +81 3-3445-0651, fax: +81 3-3473-0104. Closed M; Tu Th-Su 11AM-5PM, W 11AM-8PM. This small museum hosts a variety of interesting exhibitions in a 1930s house which is a great example of modern architecture in pre-war Japan. There is a very nice indoor/outdoor cafe. ¥1000 adults, ¥700 students.
- 2 Shinagawa Aquarium (しながわ水族館, Shinagawa Suizokukan), 3-2-1 Katsushima (5 minutes walk from Keiyu Ōmori-Kaigan Station.), ☏ +81 3-3762-3433, fax: +81 3-3762-3436. Closed Th; Tu 11AM-5PM, W 10AM-5PM. ¥1350 adults, ¥600 students, children \300.
- 3 Showa Neon Kanban Takamura Goro Museum, 1-7-17 Minami-Shinagawa. The sign company Showa Neon has a museum with shop signs from the Edo and early Meiji periods. Reportedly all descriptions in this museum are in Japanese. free.
Do
- Epson Aqua Stadium, Minato-ku, Takanawa 4-10-30 (Behind Takanawa Wing West just past the Prince Hotel Executive Tower), ☏ +81 3-3440-1111. M-F noon-10PM; Sa 10AM-10PM; Su and holidays 10AM-9PM. Aquarium with dolphin and seal shows and hundreds of species of fish. There is also a carousel ride. Adults ¥1,800; Elementary and middle school students ¥1,000; Kids over 4 years old ¥600.
- Takanawa Catholic Church, Minato-ku, Takanawa 4-7-1 (A few minutes up Zakurozaka street past the Outback restaurant on the left), ☏ +81 3-3441-5556. This modern church rebuilt on a historic site is handicapped-accessible and has Sunday Mass in English on the fourth Sunday of each month at 1PM.
- 1 Ōi Horse Race Course (大井競馬場), 2-1-2 Katsushima Shinagawa (Take Tokyo Monorail), ☏ +81 3-3763-2151. Adults ¥100.
Buy
- Coffee Roast Sai, Takanawa 1-21-3 (15 min walk up from Shinagawa), ☏ +81 3-3449-7007. Roasts beans while you wait, usually with a wonderful free cup of coffee.
- 1 Sanrio Gift gate (サンリオ ギフトゲート), 1-6-5 Ōsaki (near Ōsaki station, and Sanrio head office.), ☏ +81 3-3449-7007. A shop of the brand behind the famous Hello Kitty.
Eat
Budget
You don't even have to leave the station to treat yourself to a wide range of affordable restaurants. Inside the ticket barrier you can find:
- Andersen. 7AM-10PM. If you are making an early departure for Kamakura or points south pick up sandwiches to go
- [dead link] eCute, ☏ +81 3-3444-8910. A small food court and take out restaurants featuring a couple of dozen food stands and bakery or sweet shops on the first level. This is also a very comfortably air-conditioned place to wait for a train connection. There are three full-service restaurants on the upper level. A few examples include:
- Kongariya, ☏ +81 3-5421-0431. Select from a wide range of onigiri with interesting fillings like squid and kimchee, miso or shoyu grilled riceballs, or even ones wrapped in Indian naan and baked. From ¥150.
- Paul, ☏ +81 3-3440-5021. Sandwiches on real baguettes.
Near the West or Takanawa Exit
- Yoshinoya (One block to right from Takanawa exit of the JR station). Fast food chain with Japanese style food.
Near the East or Konan Exit adjacent to the Shinkansen ticket gates
- Ushio Sushi Bar (On the left just past the main Atre entrance), ☏ +81 3-6717-0934. 11AM-11PM. Cheap sushi by the piece or in sets. There is a bilingual menu and instruction sheet to help you with ordering and payment. There is also a quick take-out window to grab something for the road. Sets from ¥380.
- 1 Komahachi Meguro Sanma Center (駒八 目黒店). Izakaya serving sanma in all shapes, try at least the shioyaki and the sushi. Adventurous eaters might try the sanma rice crackers that include the head. 3000¥.
Mid-range
- Shinatatsu, Takanawa 3-26-20 (turn left from the West entrance of the JR station, 1 minute walk south), ☏ +81 3 5475 7020. 11AM-10PM. Collection of 7 ramen noodle restaurants and 5 donburi rice bowl restaurants under the roadway, some with lines at lunchtime and some without.
- Atre New York Style (Shinagawa Station Konan Exit). A collection of restaurants grouped around a Queen Isetan grocery. Dean & Deluca, on the second floor, has a take-out sandwich and coffee bar which is convenient for supplies to get you through a long Shinkansen ride. The fourth floor has the Lounge Foodium restaurant complex including Grand Central Oyster Bar.
- Devi Corner, 3-24-21 Takanawa (5 min. north of Shinagawa station). Excellent Indian cuisine.
- Beer Restaurant (Across the street and 1/2 block down from the East entrance of Shinagawa station). This is a good, authentic yakatori joint quite popular with Japanese commuters. They also have horse sashimi, which is available occasionally but not very common.
- Royal Host (First floor of the Takanawa Keikyu Hotel). Popular "family restaurant" chain with surprisingly good coffee but little else that stands out.
- Tsubame Grill (Shinagawa-ekimae) (つばめグリル 品川駅前店), 高輪4-10-26, Minato, Japan (across the street, next to the bus entrance of Shinagawa Prince Hotel). Tsubame is famous for its "hamburg" dish. Contrary to belief, lunch special only costs ¥1150 - a bargain for the excellent quality of food. The "hamburg" dish comes piping hot covered completely in an aluminum foil.
- Tikka & Biryani (take Prince Hotel Exit of Shinagawa station, take your left after crossing the road. Its about 7 minutes walk on the highways, take the lane next to Riken kiki co. Ltd. building). Has excellent Indian Mughal Biryani.
Splurge
- Kura (Ginza Since 1930) (one block South of the East Exit of the JR station). This is an excellent Japan-Korean barbeque, with seafood and vegetarian options. Several waitstaff speak impeccable English. Cost really depends on how hungry you are; a light meal is likely to be ¥3000, but stuffing yourself could run to ¥7000.
Drink
Directly across the street from JR Shinagawa Station Takanawa Exit you will find Enoteca on the second level of Shinagawa Wing. Shop for imported wines, or sample glasses in their small cafe. The Wing also has a tea shop.
- Virgin Cafe (Cross the elevated walkway to the left of Shinagawa Konan Exit). This cafe always seems very smoky, but is an easy place to stop for light food and imported beers on tap such as Kilkenny and Guinness. ¥1,000 for a pint.
- Art Cafe (Across the street from the East side of the JR station, in the Prince hotel shopping center). Excellent coffee, this somewhat smoky cafe is full of American and European business visitors and Japanese having espresso and a curry bun, or even a "bagette" (Japanese hot dog).
- Starbucks (On the second floor of JR Shinagawa Station just before the Konan Exit). Of course, Americans who are feeling homesick can always get a latte at Starbucks inside the JR station.
- 82 Ale House (Leaving Shinagawa station via the Konan exit, go down the escalator and walk down the street directly in front. Its near the end on the right hand side). Last orders are at 10:45PM on Saturdays and Sundays. Very convincing Victorian style British pub. Largish drinks menu which includes single malt wiskeys, real ale and Guinness on tap for ¥900 a pint.
Sleep
With the new Shinkansen service to Shinagawa, the area hotels have become much more convenient (and crowded). Rooms at the hotels near the station sell out very quickly. Try Gotanda Station, 2 stops away on the Yamanote Line, for cheaper business hotels or capsules.
Budget
- Guesthouse Shinagawa-shuku, 1-22-16 Kita-Shinagawa Shinagawa-ku (JR Kita Shinagawa Station), ☏ +81 3-6712-9440, fax: +81 3-6712-9443, reservation@bp-shinagawashuku.com. Small, friendly guesthouse "for backpackers" in a very 'local' feeling location. dormitory ¥3,000; single ¥3,500.
- Toyoko Inn Minami-Shinagawa. An alternative Toyoko Inn, five minutes south of Shinagawa by Keikyu local train. Availability is generally better here than the other Toyoko Inn, and the hotel is directly connected to the Keikyu line. Rack rates from ¥6,720.
- Toyoko Inn Shinagawa (Takanawa exit). A bit cheaper than the rest, and it can sell out quickly. Rack rates from ¥6,720.
Mid-range
- Keikyu EX Inn Shinagawa-Ekimae (Takanawa exit). Formerly known as the Meridien Pacific, but since renovated and converted to a Keikyu EX Inn. Rack rates from ¥11,000.
- New Takanawa Grand Prince Hotel (near the Takanawa exit). Rack rates from ¥15,500.
- Shinagawa Prince Hotel (near the Takanawa exit). Rack rates from ¥15,500.
- Takanawa Keikyu. A more economical alternative to the more expensive high-service hotels, while still being good for business travelers who need the room primarily for sleeping and internet. Rack rates from ¥11,900.
- Takanawa Prince Hotel (near the Takanawa exit). Rack rates from ¥15,500.
- Grand Prince Hotel Takanawa. Though priced similarly per-night to other hotels in the area, rooms are available at an incredible discount if staying more than 3 nights through the week.
Splurge
- Hotel La Foret, 品川区北品川4-7-36 Shinagawa-ku, Kita Shinagawa 4-7-36 (3 min. walk from Keikyu Kita Shinagawa, 5 min by bus from JR Shinagawa Takanawa Exit, 10-min walk from JR Gotanda Station), ☏ +81 3 5488-3939. Check-in: 2PM, check-out: noon. This high end hotel is in the deluxe Gotenyama Hills complex. ¥30,000.
- The Strings Hotel (Konan exit). A top-notch hotel near Shinagawa Station which is worth visiting for a drink or a meal to get the view of the bay and Rainbow Bridge. Part of the Intercontinental chain. Rack rates from ¥31,000.
Connect
- Shinigawa Prince Executive Tower`s North and South Annex. 2nd floor wireless hot-spot. Must purchase a ¥500 card at the front desk, which will give you one day access. Must have your own computer. Power plugs along the window side. No eating or drinking allowed at the tables.
Go next
- Ōimachi - At the station next to Keihin Tohoku Line from Shinagawa, there are more shops, hotels and izakaya. It is also close to Odaiba.
- Ōsaki - At the station next to Yamanote Line from Shinagawa, there are high-speed buses and Tokyu buses connecting other cities, Narita Airport.
| Routes through Shinagawa |
| Nagoya ← Shin-Yokohama ← | W  E |
→ Tokyo Station, in Chiyoda → END |
| Yokohama ← Kawasaki ← | W  E |
→ Tokyo Shimbashi → Tokyo Station |
| Chiba ← Kinshicho ← Tokyo ← | N  S |
→ Musashi Kosugi → Yokohama |
| Tokyo/Shibuya ← Ebisu ← Gotanda ← | W  E |
→ Hamamatsucho → Shinbashi → Tokyo |
| Ueno ← Tokyo ← Shinbashi ← | N  S |
→ Oimachi → Kamata → Kawasaki → Tsurumi |
| Sengakuji ← | N  S |
→ Yokohama → Zushi → Misakiguchi |
| Futako Tamagawa ← Jiyūgaoka → Oimachi ← | N  S |
→ END |
| Hamamatsucho ← | N  S |
→ Haneda Airport |
| Nishi-Ikebukuro ← Hatsudai-Minami ← | N  S |
→ END |
| Honmoku Wharf ← Haneda Airport ← | W  E |
→ Rinkai Fukutoshin → Urayasu → Chiba |