Kolkata/Central
Esplanade is the heart of Kolkata. It consists of the region just north of the Maidan and includes Dalhousie Square with all its colonial British buildings. The district takes a visitor back to the Raj-era with nostalgic overtones. Many of the city's important buildings are located here. It is the central business district of the city.
Understand
Calcutta was once nicknamed the City of Palaces. This comes from the numerous palatial mansions built all over the city. During the British colonial era from 1700–1912, when Calcutta was the capital of British India, Calcutta witnessed a spate of frenzied construction activity of buildings largely influenced by the conscious intermingling of Gothic, Baroque, Roman, Oriental and Islamic schools of design. Unlike many north Indian cities, whose construction stresses minimalism, the layout of much of the architectural variety in Calcutta owes its origins to European styles and tastes imported by the British and, to a much lesser extent, the Portuguese and French. The buildings were designed, and inspired by the tastes of the English gentleman around and the aspiring Bengali Babu (literally a nouveau riche Bengali who aspired to cultivation of English etiquette, manners and custom as such practices were favorable to monetary gains from the British). Today many of these structures are in various stages of decay. Some of the major buildings of this period are well maintained and several buildings have been declared as heritage structures. Conservation efforts are often affected by problems of litigation, tenant troubles, ownership disputes, old tenancy laws and a lack of funds.
Get in
By bus
- Esplanade- in the centre of the city, has buses passing through from all areas of the city.
- The long-distance and inter-state bus stand at Babughat is still functioning (the High Court has ordered its shifting).
- Esplanade Bus Stand - The Esplanade bus stand has bus terminals for buses from Bangladesh, Bhutan, Sikkim, Odisha, Jharkhand, Bihar and other parts of the country.
- Shyamoli Paribahan, 10 Marquis St, ☏ +91 33 2252 0802. 6AM and 7AM departures, 12 hour journey to Dhaka. Buses to Bangladesh, some with a break journey at the Benapole-Petrapole border (it is called kata service). From the border buses are available for Dhaka, as well as various other destinations in Bangladesh. Shyamoli Paribahan handles the border transfer from one bus to another so well, that it seems a better option to many than the direct service. Direct buses between Kolkata and Dhaka are available from Salt Lake International Bus Terminus. ₹650 for earlier and later departures respectively.
By EMU Local Train
- The Babu Ghat station and Eden Garden Station are the nearby train stations.
- 1 BBD Bagh Circular Railway Station, Strand Road.
By metro
Get around
- 6 Babu Ghat, ~8, Strand Rd. Ferry to Ramkrishnapur Ghat free.
- 7 Fairlie Ghat, Strand Road, Bara Bazar. Take a boat to Howrah Shipping Ghat
Area landmarks
- 8 BBD Bagh (Full name: Benoy-Badal-Dinesh Bagh. Earlier name: Dalhosie Square). Lal Dighi, the big tank in the centre of the square, was there before the arrival of the British. The place was then called Dihi Kolkata. The British decided to settle there, because it was less crowded than other areas in the neighbourhood. They built the old Fort William here (at the place where the General Post Office now stannds.). After their victory in the Battle of Plassey in 1757, they built the new fort in Gobindapur, Dalhousie Square remained at the heart of what was then the 'White Town' of Kolkata. No Indian, rich or poor, dared to live in the area. They came for work during day time and went back to 'Black Town' (Sutanuti) before sunset. With Writers Building occupying the north side and numerous commercial offices all around it became the administrative and business centre of Kolkata. Even now it stands out as a 'period piece'. After independence of India, the square was named after three youngsters who dared to challenge British rule and died there in 1930.
- 9 General Post Office, Netaji Subhas Road, B B D Bagh (Located at the centre of the western side of BBD Bagh). The GPO is notable for its imposing high domed roof (rising over 220 feet) and tall Ionic-Corinthian pillars. It was built in 1868, at the site of the old Fort Wlliam, and has remained an important landmark of the city ever since.
- 10 Howrah Bridge (Formal name:Rabindra Setu).
- 11 Calcutta High Court, Esplanade Row West (Near to Babughat), ☏ +91 33 2254-8000, fax: +91 33 2248-7835, calcuttahighcourtprotocol@gmail.com. It is the oldest High Court in India. It was established as the High Court of Judicature at Fort William in 1862. It has jurisdiction over the state of West Bengal and the Union Territory of the Andaman and Nicobar Islands. The High Court building is an exact replica of the Cloth Hall, Ypres, in Belgium.
- 12 The Raj Bhavan (Earlier name:Government House). The Governor's Residence. Built in 1803, modelled on Lord Curzon’s home, Keddleston Hall, Derbyshire, England, this is now the official residence of the Governor of Bengal. There are many rare works of art and other interesting items. Entry is restricted.
- 13 Reserve Bank of India (Regional office of India's central bank), 15 Netaji Subhas Rd, 8 Council Road, BBD Bagh, (Located at the north-west corner of BBD Bagh, Near GPO,).
- 14 Writer's Building, Lions Range (Northern side of BBD Bagh). Office of the Chief Minister of West Bengal. The building is set for a three-year major repair from the end of 2013.
See
Map of Kolkata/Central
- 1 Assembly House (Bidhan Sabha Bhaban), Esplanade Row West.
- 2 Carey Baptist Church, Bepin Behari Ganguly Street, Bow Bazaar (Metro Central), ☏ +91 33 2236 7254.
- 3 Indian Museum, J.L. Nehru Rd, ☏ +91 33 2249 5699, fax: +91 33 249 5696. Closed on Mondays.. Established in 1814, this was the first such museum in Asia. Among its famous collection is the urn that held the ashes of the Buddha (though this is generally not on display), an Ashoka pillar (the three-lion symbol from which became the official emblem of the Republic of India) and numerous rare antiques. Varied collection of exhibits that include unique fossils, Buddhist Gandhara art, and Egyptian mummy. Admission: ₹10 (for Indians) ₹150 (for non-Indians).
- 4 Mother Teresa’s tomb (Mother House), 54A, Lower Circular Road, Taltala (take Bus to Stop 'Rippon Street' - M: Mother Teresa Sarani 1km West), ☏ +91 33 2217 5267. The Missionaries of Charity is a new order formed in 1950 by Mother Teresa. Their vow ‘to give wholehearted and free service to the poorest of the poor’ was put into action with the setting up of several homes. Visit Mother Teresa’s tomb at the Mother House, Nirmal Hriday (home for the dying), Shanti Nagar (for lepers) and Nirmala Shishu Bhavan (the children’s home). For voluntary work with the Mission, in India, you may contact the London branch of the Missionaries of Charity, 41 Villiers Road, Southall, Middlesex, UK, or write in to the "Mother House", 54A, Lower Circular Road, Calcutta 700 014.
- 5 Nakhoda Mosque. The largest mosque in Kolkata
- 6 South Park Street cemetery. The final resting place for early British traders and settlers.
- 7 Press Government of India, Chandni Chawk, Bow Bazaar (Esplanade Metro Station 300m).
- 8 Sahid Minar (Earlier name:Ochterlony Monument. Now common people call it 'Monument') (- At the south-eastern end of the Maidan). 48 meters high.
- 9 St Andrews Church (Church of North India), Brabourne Rd, Murgighata, Barabazar Market (North of Dalhousie Square Bus Terminus).
- 10 St John Church and Compound, 2/1 Council House Street, Kolkata: 700001, ☏ +91 33 22436098, stjohnschurchcni@gmail.com. Built in 1787, St John's Church is the third-oldest church of Kolkata and the oldest Anglican Church of the city. Its compound contains several graves including that of Job Charnock.
- 11 Tipu Sultan Mosque, 185 Dharmatala Street (now Lenin Sarani). Built in 1832 by Prince Ghulam Mohammed, the youngest son of Tipu Sultan. People from all sections of society and religions are allowed to visit and take pictures of this historical premise.
- 12 Town Hall, Esplanade Row W, B B D Bagh (West of Raj Bhavan).
Do
Buy
- 1 Chowringhee (Esplanade), Chowringhee Square, Chandni Chawk, Bow Bazaar (NE of Esplanade metro station). It is the central market place for the people of Kolkata. There shops ranging from computer peripherals to paint brushes and accessories, from cloth merchants to phoren goods. There are cinemas and restaurants.
- 2 Dr B.C.Roy Market (Maidan Market, Bidhan Market), Dufferin Rd (Esplanade metro station 100m). It has garment, sports goods and other shops
- 3 Eagle, 12/2 Lindsay St (in front on New Market), ☏ +91 33 98 023 6663. A good place to pick up Indian art films.
- 4 Free School Street (Mirza Ghalib Street). It is famous for its second hand bookshops and second hand record stalls. Rummaging through the LPs for sale on the street, one may find real gems from the jazz age.
- 5 Handicrafts (Between Sudder Street and Surendranath Banerjee Road). It has several shops selling handicrafts. The largest is at the corner of Surendra Nath Banerjee Road. Those who are particular about handicrafts can also try 'Dakhinapan Shopping Complex' (see South Kolkata)
- 6 New Market (Archaic: Sir Stuart Hogg Market), Bertram Street, Taltala (East of Lindsay Street Bus Stop). Open 10:30 to 19:30 Monday to Friday, and Saturdays until 14:30. Sunday holiday.. It is a good place to sample Indian sweet delicacies and generally soak up the atmosphere of Kolkata. There are also a few handicraft stalls inside. The market is in a large red brick building on Lindsay Street (the road parallel with Sudder Street to the north). It has got over 2,000 stalls and is a bargain hunter's delight. The shops are arranged merchandise-wise. It is supposed to be the ultimate marketing experience in Kolkata.
- 7 Oxford Book Store, 15 Park St, ☏ +91 33 2229 5455. A large and well organized bookstore. Good selection of books on India and by Indian writers. Discount books and cafe (Cha Bar, see Drink section) on the second floor.
- 8 Park Street (Metro Mother Teresa Sarani). Famous for its restaurants but also showcases fashionable clothes, books from all over the world. and so on. Park Street has retained the British spirit, and is so well decorated during Christmas, as if it is still part of the British Empire. The overwhelmingly non-Christian crowd gather there to enjoy Christmas. Queues at most restaurants.
- 9 Shree Ram Arcade, 15A, Jawaharlal Nehru Rd, New Market Area, Dharmatala, Taltala (Near Light House cinema. Close to New Market.). Open from 10:00-20:00 from Tuesday to Saturday and from 13:00 - 20:00. on Mondays. Sunday holiday.. Full of garment shops.
- 10 Treasure Island, Madge Lane,Lindsay St,Hartford Lane, Dharmatala, Taltala (Close (south) to New Market). Open from 10:00-20:00. from Tuesday to Saturday and from 13:00 - 20:00 on Mondays. Sunday holiday.
Eat
Budget
- 1 Blue Sky Cafe, 3 Sudder Street (on the corner of Chowringhee Lane). The food is cheap, the place is clean and service is truly fantastic. Great if you are on an extended stay as they offer both Indian and some Western food. You will not find nicer waiters anywhere. Try the fresh squeezed juices.
- 2 Chung-Wah, 13A, Chittaranjan Ave (Near Chandni Chawk metro station), ☏ +91 33 22377003. One of the oldest and best places to sample Chinese food. Drinks served.
- Curd Corner, Sudder Street, (near junction with Chowrunghee Lane). This small hole in the wall eatery is quite an institution in the area, and a generation of travellers have gorged themselves on the fresh and thick yoghurt. Check out the filter coffee and 'mock' cappuccino. Service staff don't speak English, which makes it hard when their menu is itself in English.
- Khalsa, Madge Lane (on left side when entering Madge Lane. from Sudder Street). offers excellent and cheap Punjabi food.
- 3 Mission Cafe, 20 Ganesh Chandra Ave, Bow Bazaar (Near to Chandni Chowk metro station). Vegetarian fast food spot. Dosa, chaats and curry served at high tables. The cafe is known for its chola-bhatura, a chickpea dish served in a phuchka shell. Turnover fast here, not even stools to sit on, but it is nonetheless tasty.
- 4 Nizam's, Junction of Hogg Street and Corporation Pl. A Calcutta institution for over a 100 yr. An unpretentious place that is famous for 'Muslim' food and lays claim to be the place where Kathi Rolls were invented, it is still considered to make the best ones.
- 5 Raj's Spanish Cafe, 7 Sudder St (hard to find alleyway entrance close to intersection Mirza Ghalib St), ☏ +91 33 4001 4373. 8AM-10PM. Serves breakfast and espresso based coffees. Mexican, pizza, and other Western staples. mains ₹100.
Mid-range
- 6 Flury's, 18 Park St (Park Street Metro Station), ☏ +91 33 22297664. Tu-Su 7AM-8PM, M 10AM-6PM. A popular and stylish cafe serving a good variety of baked goods and various coffees, sandwiches and entrees. A great place for breakfast or lunch. Baked goods ₹80-₹100, drinks ₹80, meals ₹600-₹1000.
- Gangaur, 2 Russel St, ☏ +91 33 22658437. Serves a variety of vegetarian food but is famous for its Rajasthani or Marwari food.
- Kathleen's, Free School St, (Mirza Ghalib Street). Pastry shop and an ecelectic mix of cuisines dominated by Indian and Chinese styles.
- KFC, 20-K, Park St, ☏ +91 33 4027 5000.
- 7 Kwality, 17 Park St (next to Oxford Book Shop). Been around for years with sharply dressed waiters serving tasty tandoori and north Indian food to well-off locals. Try their Chhola-bhatura. Mains from ₹100.
- Macdonald's, 55 Park St, ☏ +91 33 2226 6330.
- 8 Mocambo, 25B Mirza Ghalib St, ☏ +91 33 2265 4300. Same owners as Peter Cat, but here the cuisine is a bit more rounded. Continental, Indian and even some Chinese dishes served in upscale surrounds. mains ₹100-₹300.
- Moulin Rouge (Not to be confused with Paris night club), 31 Park St, ☏ +91 33 2229 9397.
- Oasis, 33 Park St, ☏ +91 33 2229 9033. Cosy restaurant with variety of foods. Has a small bar service counter with three stolls.
- 9 Peter Cat, 18 Park St (Park Street Metro Station), ☏ +91 33 2229 8841. Very popular for its chello kababs. However, their service has not received the best reviews. Serves Indian, tandoori and Continental fare.
- 10 Waldorf, 13 D, Russel St (Near crossing with Park Street), ☏ +91 33 65354952. Serves delicious Chinese food
Splurge
- Aheli, Peerless Inn Hotel, 12 Jawaharlal Nehru Rd, ☏ +91 33 2228-0301. Authentic Bengali food, served in brass utensils in a Bengali marriage environment. Drinks not served. +phone=+91 33 4400-3900
- Ban Thai, Oberoi Grand, 15 Jawaharlal Nehru Rd, ☏ +91 33 2249-2323. Week days - Open only for Dinner from 7PM to 11:30PM Weekends - Open for Lunch from 12:30PM to 3PM and for Dinner from 7PM to 11:30PM. For an authentic taste of Thailand, visit Baan Thai. Widely recognised as the premier Thai restaurant in the country. Drinks served. Around ₹4,000 for two people. Drinks extra.
Drink
Coffee
There are a number of cafe chains (Barista, Cafe Coffee Day etc) on Park Street, near the junction with Free School Road.
- 1 Cha Bar, 2nd floor, Oxford Book Store, Park Street. A modern and chic cafe with a great selection of teas, including herbal, smoothies. Cha Bar also sells coffee, but this is of mediocre quality. A large window offers views of street life below, while the books provide a literary dimension. Cha Bar is an excellent place for a budding writer or a day dreamer.
- The Street, GF, Park Hotel, Park Street. The universal colors of chic decor, black and red, are used extensively to give this cafe a warm but modern feel. Good selection of coffees and healthy snacks opposed to what the name might make you think. This cafe is about as far from representing Kolkata street life as you could possibly get, but it makes a good alternative to the ubiquitous Baristas and Coffee Days.
Alcohol
- 2 Broadway Hotel, 27A, Ganesh Chandra Ave. Recommended for a glimpse of a bygone era. Also one of the few places which serves beer with a plate of sliced cucumber.
- 3 Fairlawn Beer Garden, 13/A Sudder St (inside Hotel Fairlawn), ☏ +91 33 2252 1510. Only serves beer. Eccentric atmosphere with greenery everywhere. Famous among travellers and volunteers. Great place for meeting people and early evening drinking. Snacks and dinner available.
- 4 Olypub, 23 Park St, ☏ +91 33 64520472. 11AM to 11PM. A fine afforable bar
- Super Pub, Sudder St (opposite of Fire Station). Air-Conditioned and clean place. Serves beer and hard liquor and seasonal fruit juice. Snacks and eateries are reasonably priced.
Juice
- 5 Rallis, Esplanade, J.L. Nehru Rd.. Excellent sherbets.
Sleep
| This guide uses the following price ranges for a standard double room: | |
| Budget | Under ₹1000 |
| Mid-range | ₹1000 to ₹3000 |
| Splurge | Over ₹3000 |
Sudder Street is at the centre of Kolkata's backpacker area, and many of the budget hotels geared towards travelers are located on and around this street.
Budget
- 1 Broadway Hotel, 27A Ganesh Chandra Ave, Chandni Chowk (Chandni Chowk metro station 200 m), ☏ +91 33 22363930, +91 33 2236 3931, contact@broadwayhotel.in. Check-out: 24 hours from when you check in. Despite lacking AC the very large rooms with high ceilings make for a great space and the price is definitely right. Don't miss the authentic ambiance of the restaurant and bar of this 1937 built hotel. Supposedly due to the hotel's popularity rooms are often difficult to get unless you book ahead, however try hanging around and see if one magically opens up while you're there (especially if you're first offered a more expensive room). Upper triple rooms have balconies. ₹775 double with private bathroom.
- Hotel Galaxy, 3, Stuart Lane (off Sudder Street), ☏ +33 2252 4565. Clean, simple, and convenient location.
- 2 Hotel Maria, 5/1 Sudder St (Park Street metro station), ☏ +91 33 2252 0860. dorm ₹80, Very basic, creatively graffiti-ed rooms with and without attached bathroom from ₹300 as of Feb 2015. Grumpy service, cheap laundry, dank bathroom/toilet and no wifi. Very central location, takes no bookings, so arrive early (8:30AM onwards).
- 3 Hotel Modern Lodge, 1 Stuart Ln (off Sudder Street, next to Pargon Hotel), ☏ +91 33 2252 4960. Not very modern, but cheap and fairly clean. ₹150 for single with shared cold-water bathroom. ₹100-₹250.
- Hotel Royal Palace (also called Free School St), ☏ +91 33 2252 5280, +91 33 2252 4178. Clean and large A/C & non-A/C rooms with private bath, color TV, STD/ISD. ₹350-₹750.
- 4 Seacom Inn YMCA, 25 Jawaharlal Neru Rd (near corner with Kyd St, Park Street metro station), ☏ +91 33 2249-2192, chowringheeymca@yahoo.com. An extremely drab and dark hotel that appears not to have received a lick of paint since its founding in the mid 19th century. However, in someways, that is the hotel's distinctive charm, and so it may appeal to strict traditionalists. There is a simple restaurant on the second floor. The food is nothing special, but the balcony offers a great view of the buzzing city below. Non A/C single ₹600, with A/C ₹850.
Mid-range
- 5 Astoria Hotel, Sudder St (between Park Street metro station and Esplanade metro station), ☏ +91 33 2252 9679, astoria@hotmail.com. Clean, large, albeit drab, rooms with private bathrooms. ₹2450-4150 +10% tax (2015).
- 6 DK international Hotel, 11/1A Marquis St (Near to Colin street corner), ☏ +91 33 2252 2540, +91 33 2252 2666, dkinhotel@gmail.com. All rooms A/C and breakfast included. Close to the Bangladesh bus stations. There are better deals out there but not quite as new as this place. Double from ₹1,800+tax.
- Esplanade Chambers, 2 Chandney Chowk St (40 m off GC Ave), ☏ +91 33 2212 7101, +91 99 0313 2621, esplanadechambers@yahoo.co.in. Very clean and reasonably quiet rooms, albeit not massive. Single from ₹1400, double deluxe ₹2200, breakfast incl.
- 7 Hotel Jaapon (Japoon Guest House), 30F Mirza Galib St (also called Free School St (at the end of Sudder St)), ☏ +91 33 2252 0657, +91 33 2252 0658. Reasonably clean AC and non-AC rooms available with a very small private bathroom and cable TV. Beds are surprisingly comfortable given the thin and well worn mattresses,but some rooms are chokingly musty - check before checking in. Location is central and just metres from Sudder St. Singles ₹650, AC doubles ₹1100.
- 8 Sunflower Guest House, 7 Royd St (200 m away intersection Park St and Free school St), ☏ +91 33 2229 9401, +91 33 2229 8388, sunflowerguesthouse@gmail.com. Clean and great location. Those who tote lots of luggage be warned there are stairs to climb to top floor reception. ₹1,350 double.
Splurge
- 9 Bawa Watson Spa'o'tel, 5A Sudder St, ☏ +91 33 2252 1512, bawawalson@bawahotels.com. An upscale new venue that's breaking the trend from the Sudder St backpacker tide. 29 rooms ₹4100 per double (all tax included, 2015).
- 10 Fairlawn Hotel, 13/A Sudder St (between Park Street metro station and Esplanade metro station), ☏ +91 33 2252 1510, +91 33 2252 8767, fairlawn@cal.vsnl.net.in. a relic of the British Raj and oozing with charm and character. Single:₹3500, double/twin:₹4400 (Service Charge 5%) (2015).
- 11 Housez 43, 43 Mirza Ghalib Street, Park Street Area (20 km from Netaji Subhas Airport, 7 km from Howrah Railway Station, and 0.5 km from the main shopping area of New Market; near Fire Station), ☏ +91 33 2227 6020, +91 7595067173, booking.housez43@thesparkhotels.com. All rooms equipped with air-conditioning, TV, and private bath. Rates start at ₹4,950.
- 12 Hotel Lindsay, 8A/8B Lindsay St (near Globe Cinema Hall, nearby Transit: Esplanade Metro Station), ☏ +91 33 3021 8666, sales@hotellindsay.com. The hotel is well lit and clean. Its facilities, including a room minibar, hot water, tea and coffee, make it a good value four-star property. New market is right on the door step, and provides plenty of local interaction right on the doorstep. ₹4,600 double.
- 13 Oberoi Grand Hotel, 15 Jawaharlal Nehru Rd, (Chowringhee Road) (Near to Esplanade metro station), ☏ +91 33 2249 2323. One of the great hotels of the Raj, the Grand has been the last word in luxury for all of its 125+ years. A surprisingly quiet oasis in one of the busiest streets in the world. US$375-1,375.
- 14 The Park Hotel, 17 Park St (Park Street metro station), ☏ +91 33 2249 3121, fax: +91 33 2249 4000, resv.cal@theparkhotels.com. The unassuming exterior hides an elegant and homely interior with stylish Indian features. From ₹6300 (2015).
- 15 Peerless Inn, 12 Jawaharlal Nehru Rd (Close to Esplanade metro station), ☏ +91 33 4400 3900. From ₹10,000.
Connect
- 15 Gopal's Planet, 7 Tottie Lane (Coming from Sudder Street, walk 50m (150ft) into Tottie Ln. On your left-hand side, same building as Raj's Guesthouse, ground floor), ☏ +91 9674273616, gopalsplanet@gmail.com. 8AM-11PM. Friendly, quiet internet cafe off Sudder Street with relatively modern computers, AC and free chai (with Wi-Fi, Skype, printers, phone calls, etc.). They also rent bicycles and sell train tickets. Their coffee and snacks are good as well.
- Hotline Services, 7 Sudder St, (near the Astoria Hotel, at the back of the parking lot between Roop Shringar clothing shop and Metro Beauty Parlour. Identified with a large illuminated sign in red) has a room jam packed with high speed computers, and charges ₹15/hr. They also sell CDs of various styles of Indian music for around ₹150/each, and have a selection of hand-woven material and cotton clothing from all over India. Hotline also provides a coffee and snack service.
There are other smaller internet cafes on Sudder Street such as Net Freaks, but they are often very busy.