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Europe > Iberia > Portugal > Central Portugal > Caldas da Rainha

Caldas da Rainha

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Caldas da Rainha is a city in western Central Portugal, about 10 km from the Atlantic Ocean. Absent from most international visitors' itineraries, but charming nonetheless, Caldas da Rainha is an excellent place to experience the real Portugal without hordes of tourists. Caldas offers visitors countless experiences to savour: a lovely park, a bustling farmers' market, museums, shops, appetizing dining, and nearby beaches.

Caldas da Rainha is an artistic city, and artworks aren't confined to its several museums. Caldas's main park contains many statues and sculptures, as do most of the city's roundabouts. The city is home to a college of art and design, as well as a vocational school devoted to ceramics. Caldas's centre has many excellent examples of Art Nouveau architecture, with beautiful titled exteriors. You can even take art home with you, in the form of world-renowned ceramic creations from the Bordallo Pinheiro factory.

Understand[edit]

Statue of Queen Leonor, founder of Caldas da Rainha.

The city of Caldas da Rainha has 27,000 residents and serves as the seat of a municipality of the same name with a population of almost 52,000. Caldas is also the seat of the Comunidade Intermunicipal do Oeste, made up of twelve municipalities with over 362,000 people.

For centuries, the sulphurous curative waters of Caldas were its main draw. The city's name can be translated as "Queen's Hot Springs", "Queen's Spa", or "Queen's Baths". Locals, known as caldenses, usually refer to the city as simply "Caldas".

History[edit]

Caldas da Rainha was founded by Queen Leonor, wife of King João II. One day in 1484, while traveling from Óbidos to Batalha, she found a group of peasants bathing in foul-smelling waters by the roadside. She stopped to inquire about this strange sight, and the bathers told the queen of the waters' curative powers. She decided to try the waters for herself and was pleased to find that she was quickly relieved of some affliction she had been suffering. The queen ordered a thermal hospital built on the site of those waters, so that others may enjoy the relief that she felt. Construction began the following year, 1485, and the first patients were admitted in 1488. Work continued until about 1496 or 1497. To pay for hospital and its adjoining church, the queen sold her jewels and used income from her landholdings. The spa hospital still stands to serve those with certain medical conditions.

In 1511, King Manuel I, brother of Queen Leonor, declared Caldas da Rainha a town. In 1821, the town became a municipal seat. Caldas was elevated to city status in August 1927.

During the twentieth century, Caldas served as a refuge several times. In 1901 and 1902, the city welcomed 350 Boer men, women and children escaping the devastation of the Second Boer War in South Africa. During World War I, in which Portugal fought alongside the Allies, German men of military age were interned in Caldas and released after the end of the war. During World War II, when Portugal remained neutral, Caldas housed hundreds of Jewish refugees, as well as 230 Britons who had been living in Axis Italy. Also ensconced in Caldas were British and American airmen who crashed or landed in Portugal or off its coast.

Before dawn on 16 March 1974, in a prelude to Portugal's Carnation Revolution, a group of 30 officers and 300 enlisted soldiers from the army base in Caldas attempted a coup d'etat. Upon reaching the outskirts of Lisbon, the nation's capital, they found that the other units that were supposed to revolt had not made it. The men returned to Caldas, locked themselves in the base, and awaited the consequences. They were surrounded, arrested, and sent to various military prisons, and were released 40 days later on 25 April 1974, when Carnation Revolution came.

Orientation[edit]

City[edit]

Although not a large city, Caldas da Rainha does have several distinct neighbourhoods. Nossa Senhora do Pópulo and Santo Onofre, the two freguesias (civil parishes) that make up the city of Caldas da Rainha, are separated from each other by the railway tracks.

Nossa Senhora do Pópulo[edit]
  • 1 [dead link] Caldas da Rainha — Nossa Senhora do Pópulo, Rua Almirante Cândido Reis 1, +351 262 832 729, e-mail: . (pop. 16,114) This mostly urban civil parish forms the eastern half of the city, where most of the sites of interest to visitors are found.
    Avenal, in the city's southeast, is a mostly residential neighborhood, that also hosts the Arts Centre and the Ceramics Museum.
    Bairro Azul (Blue Neighbourhood), just west of Praça 5 de Outubro, earned it named from the predominantly blue tile façades of its buildings. Shopping and services are available here.
    Bairro Lisbonense, named after the venerable defunct Grand'Hotel Lisbonense, is dominated by the hotel's modern replacement, Caldas's largest shopping centre, and apartment blocks (most, for some reason, trimmed in shades of brown). Here you will find an abundance of cafés, beauty salons, and other local services.
    Centro (City Centre) is where visitors are likely to spend much of their time, shopping, dining, relaxing. Here you'll find beautiful Art Nouveau buildings on narrow streets with narrow sidewalks. The city's principal squares—Praça da República, Praça 5 de Outubro, and Praça 25 de Abril—are found here.
    ** Encosta do Sol (Sun Hill), in the city's west, is a residential neighbourhood, rising uphill from the centre.
    Zona Histórica (Historic Zone) is where Caldas da Rainha began. This area has the spa hospital, the Church of Nossa Senhora do Pópulo, the royal palace, and ancient winding lanes.
Santo Onofre[edit]
  • 2 Caldas da Rainha — Santo Onofre, Rua 15 de Agosto 27, +351 262 823 601, e-mail: . (pop. 11,223) This mostly urban civil parish contains the western half of the city of Caldas da Rainha.
    Bairro Além da Ponte, commonly called Bairro da Ponte (Neighbourhood Beyond the Bridge or the Bridge Neighbourhood), is the neighbourhood in Santo Onofre closest to the city centre. It got its start in the late 19th century housing ceramics factory workers.
    Bairro dos Arneiros (Arneiros Neighbourhood, literally "sandy area"), in the city's northwest, began as a complex of social housing and grew beyond its original footprint. Abundant shopping and services make the area a convenient place to live.
    Bairro das Morenas (Morenas Neighbourhood, literally "brunettes" or "dark-skinned"), in the civil parish's southeast, started as a social housing project and grew from there.
    Cidade Nova (New City), in the northeast of the civil parish, is a residential neighborhood surrounded by big-box shopping, the exhibition centre, a viaduct, and the railway.

Municipality[edit]

Map of the municipality of Caldas da Rainha, showing the 12 freguesias as of the 2013 administrative reorganization.

Beyond the two civil parishes in the city, the municipality of Caldas da Rainha contains fourteen civil parish, which are largely rural or coastal. Each parish celebrates its patron saint with a festival, typically centered around the village's small white-washed church. During the summer months, when many immigrants return home to visit family, the parishes hold parties with music, dancing, and food. The parishes usually contain multiple named settlements and are usually named after the most populous one.

To get technical, there are now only twelve civil parishes, following a 2013 national law that merged smaller parishes to save money on administration. The merged parishes are: Nossa Senhora do Pópulo, Coto & São Gregório; Santo Onofre & Serra do Bouro; and Tornada & Salir do Porto. Residents, however, still refer to their pre-merger parishes.

The contact information and coordinates provided below are for the junta de freguesia (parish council).

Climate[edit]

Caldas da Rainha
Climate chart (explanation)
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Average max. and min. temperatures in °C
Precipitation+Snow totals in mm
Imperial conversion
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59
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Average max. and min. temperatures in °F
Precipitation+Snow totals in inches

Caldas da Rainha experiences a "warm-summer Mediterranean" climate (Köppen climate classification Csb, if you're into that sort of thing), sometimes called "cool-summer Mediterranean". This is the same climate as in Porto, San Francisco and Cape Town, with lower temperatures than those experienced in "hot-summer Mediterranean" cities such as Rome, Los Angeles, or Perth.

Visitor information[edit]

  • 17 [dead link] Turismo, E end of Praça da República (Praça da Fruta) (TOMA Azul/Blue to Praça da Fruta), +351 262 240 000, e-mail: . M–F 9:00–12:30 & 14:00–17:30 (toilets 07:00–19:00). In addition to tourism information, this new space includes a shop with regional products and artisanal goods, café–restaurant called Fruta da Casa, and loos (restrooms).
  • Caldas da Rainha - City Guide. Sponsored by the municipal government and developed by Bitcliq, Caldas da Rainha - City Guide is a tour guide on your phone or tablet. The app includes itineraries, sites of interest, and an events calendar. Available for both iOS and Android.
  • GoCaldas, +351 961 481 448, e-mail: . In partnership with the Câmara Municipal (city council), GoCaldas offers a trove of information useful in planning your visit to Caldas.

Get in[edit]

Caldas da Rainha's location within Portugal.

By plane[edit]

The nearest airport is in Lisbon (LIS IATA), about 85 km (53 mi) south of Caldas da Rainha. There are several options to reach Caldas from Lisbon Airport:

  • Drive. Upon exiting the airport, follow the signs to A8 OESTE. (See the "By car" section for more info.)
  • Rodoviária do Oeste's Rápida Verde bus service. Take the Lisbon Metro Red Line (Linha Vermelha) from Aeroporto station and transfer at Alameda station to the Green Line (Linha Verde) to Campo Grande station or at Saldanha station to the Yellow Line (Linha Amarela) to Campo Grande station. (See the "By bus" section for more info.)
  • Rede Nacional de Expressos (Rede Expressos) express bus service. Take the Lisbon Metro Red Line (Linha Vermelha) from Aeroporto station and transfer at S. Sebastião station to the Blue Line (Linha Azul) to Jardim Zoológico station, near the Sete Rios bus terminal. Aerobus Line 2 also travels between the airport and Sete Rios. (See the "By bus" section for more info.)
  • Comboios de Portugal rail service on Linha do Oeste (Western Line). The station nearest the airport for all direct (and most indirect) service to Caldas is Entrecampos. Take the Lisbon Metro Red Line (Linha Vermelha) from Aeroporto station and transfer at Saldanha station to the Yellow Line (Linha Amarela) to Entrecampos station. Aerobus Lines 1 and 2 also travel between the airport and Entrecampos. (See the "By train" section for more info.)
  • Taxi will cost about €90–100.

By car[edit]

Caldas da Rainha is served by two autoestradas (motorways or expressways):

  • A8 (Autoestrada do Oeste) runs south to Lisbon via Óbidos, Bombarral, Torres Vedras, and Loures; and north to Leiria via Valado dos Frades (for Alcobaça and Nazaré) and Marinha Grande.
    • Exit 17, at km 77.68, for Gaeiras (Óbidos), provides an approach via N8 to the southernmost areas of the city.
    • Exit 18, at km 81.435, for Caldas da Rainha, leaves you on N360. It is convenient to most of the city and to Foz do Arelho via the older Estrada da Foz.
    • Exit 19, at km 82.834, for Caldas da Rainha / Zona Industrial, which puts you on Avenida Atlântica, is best for northern areas of the city and for Foz do Arelho via the newer Variante Atlântica. Bus companies prefer exit 19 over exit 18, as it offers less congested routes into the city centre.
    • Exit 20, at km 86.346, for Tornada, leaves you on N8 a few km north of the city.
  • A15 runs from A8 east to Rio Maior and Santarém, serving several of Caldas's rural civil parishes.
    • Exit 2, at km 4.009, for A dos Negros (Óbidos), also serves Caldas's rural civil parish of São Gregório on N115.
    • Exit 3, at km 12.914, for A dos Francos, is actually in a corner of Vidais.

Several national roads (estradas nacionais), which are not grade separated, serve the city and municipality:

  • N8 (EN 8), once the main highway of the region, runs right through the centre of town. It runs south to Torres Vedras and Loures, a suburb of Lisbon; and north to Alcobaça.
  • N114 (EN 114) goes west to Óbidos and Peniche; and east to Rio Maior, Santarém, Almeirim, Montemor-o-Novo, and Évora.
  • N114-1 (EN 114-1) connects the city centre to N114 to the east.
  • N115 (EN 115), runs south to Cadaval and Loures.
  • N360 (EN 360) runs from Foz do Arelho in the municipality's extreme west, through the city, and east to Benedita in Alcobaça municipality.
  • N361 (EN 361) runs from Landal and A dos Francos, in the municipality's southeast corner, west to Cadaval, Bombarral, and Lourinhã; and east to Rio Maior.

Routes (itinerários) run over several numbered motorways and roads, rather than being their own roads, at least those which serve Caldas.

By bus[edit]

  • 18 Terminal Rodoviário (bus terminal), Rua Coronel Soeiro de Brito, 35 (near the intersection of Rua Heróis da Grande Guerra; TOMA Laranja/Orange or Verde/Green to Terminal Rodoviário; or TOMA Azul/Blue, Laranja/Orange, or Verde/Green to Montepio). A recently renovated bus terminal right in the city centre, serving all out-of-town bus routes. For various trips, such as to Lisbon, the bus is often faster than the train.
    • Rede Nacional de Expressos (Rede Expressos), +351 707 22 33 44, e-mail: . This national coach company offers express service to several cities, including Lisbon (at the Sete Rios bus terminal; €8.70, 1 hr 10 min), Porto (€18.50, 3 hr 30 min – 4 hr 10 min), Peniche (€6, 30 min), Nazaré (€6, 40 min), Alcobaça (€7, 25 – 55 min), Leiria (€7, 35 min – 1 hr 25 min), Coimbra (€14, 1 hr 35 min – 2 hr 40 min), and Aveiro (€16, 2 hr – 3 hr 20 min).
    • Rodoviária do Oeste (RDO), +351 707 200 334, e-mail: . This regional coach company, formerly part of Rodoviária do Tejo, provides service to nearby cities, towns, and villages in the Oeste region. RDO also offers frequent service on the Rápida Verde (Green Rapid) to Óbidos (15 min), Bombarral (30 min), and Lisbon (at Campo Grande, 1 hr 15 min, adults €7.80, children 4–12 years €3.90, children under 4 years free, 65+ years €6.25, youth/student card €6.65, monthly passes and multi-ticket discounts are available). On weekdays, the Green Rapid has 28 round trips, with rush-hour peak-direction trips running every 15 min. Weekend and holiday service consists of 11 round trips. At Campo Grande, boarding is outside the bus terminal, on Rua Actor António Silva (east of the metro and bus stations, across from some apartment buildings).
    • Rodoviária do Tejo (RodoTejo), +351 707 200 334. This regional coach company offers a "Rápida Rosa" (Pink Rapid) service to São Martinho do Porto (20 min), Nazaré (32 min), Leiria (1 hr 5 min, adults €7, same-day round trip €10, children 4–12 years €3.50, children under 4 years free, 6 prepaid tickets €24, monthly pass €122.80), and points in between, with 4 round trips each day M–F. The "Rápida Amarela" (Yellow Rapid) service to Rio Maior (25 min) and Santarém (55 min) runs 2 round trips each day M–F.
    • Rede RoCaldas, +351 707 200 334, e-mail: . Rede RoCaldas, operated by Rodoviária do Oeste, provides service to rural communities within Caldas da Rainha municipality. Twenty-two routes connect the city of Caldas to outlying villages. Five routes connect A dos Francos to its surrounding communities, and three routes operate from Santa Catarina to its environs.

By train[edit]

  • 19 Estação Ferroviária (Railway Station), at the western end of Avenida Primeiro de Maio (TOMA Laranja/Orange or Verde/Green to Estação CP). Daily 06:00–21:00. While awaiting your train, enjoy the beautiful tiled walls, showing motifs of local life and history.
    • Comboios de Portugal (CP), +351 707 210 220. Multiple daily regional and inter-regional trains (PDF schedule) connect Caldas da Rainha to other locations along Portugal's west coast on the Linha do Oeste (Western Line), including Lisbon (at Sete Rios: €8.65, 2 hr 5 min – 2 hr 14 min; at Entrecampos: €8.75, 2 hr 8 min – 2 hr 17 min; or at Santa Apolónia: €9.05, 2 hr 19 min – 2 hr 26 min), Torres Vedras (€4, 42–50 min), Leiria (€5.15–5.70, 44–59 min), Coimbra (€12.65, 2 hr 9 min – 2 hr 40 min), and points in between. As of August 2018, CP no longer offers direct service to Coimbra. The northern terminus is Amieira. All trains serving Caldas now terminate here, though connecting services run within minutes, possibly on the same train. Old infrastructure and meandering to avoid hills mean that the train is usually slower than the bus, especially to Lisbon.

Get around[edit]

Map of Caldas da Rainha

On foot[edit]

Caldas da Rainha is a compact city. Most locations of interest are within 10–15 min walking distance. Although Caldas is in a hilly region, most of the hills within the city are manageable by people of moderate fitness. In the city centre, sidewalks tend to be very narrow, sometimes close to nonexistent.

The city centre offers several car-free streets, usually with shopping opportunities, including Rua Almirante Cândido Reis (Rua das Montras), Rua Alexandre Herculano (Rua do Jardim), Rua da Liberdade, Praça 5 de Outubro (Antiga Praça do Peixe), and a block of Rua Miguel Bombarda.

By bus[edit]

  • TOMA, +351 262 240 000, e-mail: . M–F 07:30–19:30, Sa 08:00–13:30, Su no service.
    The local bus service operates every 30–35 min on three lines, all of which serve the city centre.
    Linha Azul (Blue Line, a two-way route) serves northern and eastern neighbourhoods.
    Linha Laranja (Orange Line, a one-way figure-8 loop) serves western areas.
    Linha Verde (Green Line, a one-way figure-8 loop) goes to southern parts.
    €1.10 on board, €0.55 with TTT – Título de Transporte do TOMA (prepaid fare); Viagem-a-Viagem (per-trip card): 12 trips (plus initial card purchase)=€5.50, 15 trips (with previously-purchased card)=€5.50, 35 trips=€11, 80 trips=€22, 150 trips=€33; Dia-a-Dia (unlimited rides card): 6 days=€5.50, 13 days=€11, 27 days=€22, 45 days=€33, 65 days=€44. TOMA (Caldas da Rainha) on Wikipedia TOMA (Q17026147) on Wikidata

By taxi[edit]

Taxis in Caldas da Rainha have a creamy beige color. Other jurisdictions may have black taxis with a minty green roof. There are two taxi stands in the city and two elsewhere in the municipality. If you are not near one, call the number for the nearest one, and the next available taxi will come pick you up.

  • 20 Rua Engenheiro Duarte Pacheco taxi stand (on the street that connects the municipal hall with the bus terminal), +351 262 831 098.
  • 21 Praça da República taxi stand (at the northeast corner of the city's main square), +351 262 832 455.
  • 22 Praça de Táxis da Foz do Arelho, Avenida do Mar (adjacent to the beach), +351 919 304 824.
  • 23 Praça de Táxis de Tornada, Rua dos Choupos (north of the city on the N8 road), +351 917 211 560.

By car[edit]

Driving in Caldas is not recommended. The central areas of the city have many narrow one-way streets. On-street parking is difficult to find near popular destinations. Given the compact nature of the city and the proximity of the sights, it is easier to park for the duration of your visit and get around on foot or on TOMA.

The city of Caldas does not have any traffic lights. Intersections are controlled with stop signs (with STOP written in English) or by roundabouts (traffic circles). You will find traffic lights in some of the rural civil parishes, where they are used to slow down cars as they pass through populated areas of the villages. The red lights are often triggered by speed or vehicle presence sensors.

In addition to various open-air parking lots (some free of charge), the city has three centrally located paid underground garages:

  • 24 Praça 25 de Abril Parking. Near Igreja de Nossa Senhora do Pópulo (newer church), city hall, the courthouse, the bus station, and shopping.
  • 25 Praça 5 de Outubro Parking (Antiga Praça do Peixe). Near restaurants, bars, and shopping.
  • 26 Centro Cultural e de Congressos Parking (CCC). At the cultural and conference centre.

See[edit]

Museums[edit]

A statue of José Malhoa stands before his namesake museum in the Parque D. Carlos I.
A royal palace now houses a museum dedicated to the thermal hospital and the city.
  • 1 Casa Museu São Rafael, Rua Rafael Bordalo Pinheiro, 53 (TOMA Verde/Green to Centro d'Artes), +351 262 839 380, e-mail: . M–F by appointment. This museum is dedicated to the ceramic works produced by the Rafael Bordallo Pinheiro factory next door, including some original pieces by Bordallo Pinheiro himself from the late 19th century.
  • 2 [dead link] Centro de Artes (Arts Centre), Rua Dr. Ilídio Amado (TOMA Verde/Green to Centro d'Artes), +351 262 840 540, e-mail: . M W–F 09:00–12:30 & 14:00–17:30, Sa Su & holidays 09:00–13:00 & 15:00–18:00, closed Tu, Christmas, New Year's Day, Easter & 1st May. The Arts Centre is a collection of several museums, largely dedicated to sculpture, but also including paintings. Guided tours are available by appointment. Free admission.
    • Atelier-Museu António Duarte. Inaugurated in 1985 after master sculptor António Duarte (1912–1988) donated his collection to his hometown of Caldas.
    • Atelier-Museu João Fragoso. Opened in 1994 to display the works of sculptor João Fragoso (1913–2000).
    • Museu Barata Feyo. Dedicated to the work of sculptor, essayist, and pedagogue Barata Feyo (1899–1990), this museum was designed by the artist's son, architect António Barata Feyo, and opened in 2004.
    • Museu Leopoldo de Almeida. Inaugurated on 15 May 2017, this museum features the works of Leopoldo Neves de Almeida (18 October 1898 – 28 April 1975). Almeida is best known for the Monument to the Discoveries (Padrão dos Descobrimentos) in Lisbon.
    • Espaço da Concas. This space displays the works of Maria da Conceição Nunes, known as Concas (1946–1991). Donated by the artist's family, the paintings span from her 1960s work in Mozambique, through her fine arts studies in Lisbon, and to the work she completed on the eve of her death.
  • 3 Museu da Cerâmica (Ceramics Museum), Rua Dr. Ilídio Amado, 97 (TOMA Verde/Green to Centro d'Artes), +351 262 840 280, e-mail: . Tu–Su 10:00–17:30 (winter), 10:00–19:00 (summer). Situated in a late Romantic manor house, the Ceramics Museum displays a wide collection from Caldas, from around Portugal, and from other places on the globe. The museum holds pottery pieces from the 17th through early 20th centuries, with emphasis on local artist Rafael Bordalo Pinheiro. The collection also includes tiles and tile panels. €2, €0.80 with youth card, €1 disabled or over 65, free to all Su and holidays until 14:00, always free up to age 14. Museu de Cerâmica (Caldas da Rainha) on Wikipedia Museu de Cerâmica (Q6940625) on Wikidata
  • 4 Museu do Ciclismo (Cycling Museum), Rua de Camões, 57 (TOMA Azul/Blue, Laranja/Orange, or Verde/Green to Rainha), +351 262 240 000. Tu–Fri 10:00–12:30 & 14:00–17:30, Sa Su 10:00–12:30 & 14:30–17:00, M closed. This small museum is dedicated to cycling. In addition to displays about the history of cycling, several historical bicycles are on display. Free admission.
  • 5 Museu do Hospital e das Caldas (Museum of the Hospital and of Caldas), Rua Rodrigo Berquó (TOMA Azul/Blue to Praça da Fruta), +351 262 830 300, e-mail: . Tu–Sa & holidays 10:00–12:30 & 14:00–17:30, Su 9:00–12:00, closed M. Housed in a former royal palace, this museum presents the history of the thermal hospital and of the city of Caldas. €3, €1.50 for retirees and youth card holders, free to age 14.
  • 6 Museu José Malhoa, Parque D. Carlos I (TOMA Azul/Blue, Laranja/Orange, or Verde/Green to Rainha), +351 262 831 984, e-mail: . Tu–Su 10:00–12:30 & 14:00–18:00, closed M, 1 Jan and 25 Dec. This small yet intriguing museum displays painting and sculpture from the 19th and 20th centuries, with emphasis on Portuguese naturalism and the works of José Malhoa (1855–1933). The collection includes pieces by Raphael Bordallo Pinheiro, including the evocative sixty-sculpture set Passion of Christ. You won't find famous works here, but many pieces are worthy of hanging on the walls of the world's finest museums. Worth a visit. Don't miss the bas-relief figures on the façade of this building that was Portugal's first purpose-built museum. A handheld English audioguide is available. General admission €3, 65 & over or disabled €1.50, age 14 & under free, Su & holidays before 13:00 free for everyone, various other reduced tickets available. José_Malhoa_Museum on Wikipedia José Malhoa Museum (Q6292942) on Wikidata

Churches[edit]

Igreja de Nossa Senhora do Pópulo, with the thermal hospital directly behind.
Interior of Igreja de Nossa Senhora do Pópulo.
  • 7 Ermida do Espírito Santo (Hermitage of the Holy Spirit), Largo João de Deus (uphill SE of the thermal hospital; TOMA Azul/Blue to Praça da Fruta). Mannerist and baroque chapel, originally from the 16th century and rebuilt in the 18th century. (Q10300906) on Wikidata
  • 8 Ermida de São Sebastião (Hermitage of Saint Sebastian), NE corner of Praça da República (Praça da Fruta) (TOMA Azul/Blue to Praça da Fruta). Sixteenth-century mannerist and baroque chapel. (Q10273954) on Wikidata
  • 9 Igreja de Nossa Senhora da Conceição (Church of Our Lady of the Conception), Hemiciclo João Paulo II, 14 (on Praça 25 de Abril; TOMA Azul/Blue, Laranja/Orange, or Verde/Green to Câmara), +351 262 832 029. Open M–Sa 08:00–20:00 Su 08:00–13:00 & 17:00–20:00; Mass M–Sa 19:00, Su 09:00 / 10:15 / 12:00 / 18:00, 1st Sa of month 09:00. Modern church built in 1950 to handle the city's growing population. Mostly bright white except for some low-lying tiles. Church of Nossa Senhora da Conceição (Q10300361) on Wikidata
  • 10 Igreja de Nossa Senhora do Pópulo (Church of Our Lady of the Populace), Largo da Copa (TOMA Azul/Blue to Praça da Fruta). Open Tu–Sa 14:00–17:00, Closed M & holidays ; Mass M–Sa 11:00, Su 09:00. Built in 1500 as the royal chapel associated with the thermal hospital, this church features Late Gothic, Manueline, and Mudéjar styles. At the behest of Queen Leonor, Pope Julius II elevated the chapel to mother church of Caldas. The interior is lined with tiles, including original Hispano-Arab tiles on the side altars. The Passion triptych over the triumphal arch has drawn the interest of art historians. The church has been a National Monument, the only one in Caldas, since 1910. Igreja de Nossa Senhora do Pópulo on Wikipedia Church of Nossa Senhora do Pópulo (Q10300527) on Wikidata

Outdoors and architecture[edit]

Hospital Termal Rainha D. Leonor, the spa hospital responsible for the existence of the city.
Chafariz das Cinco Bicas, a baroque water fountain.
Jardim de Água.
  • Art Nouveau Architecture. Caldas da Rainha is home to many fine examples of Art Nouveau buildings in the city centre. This style was popular worldwide between 1890 and 1910, but it flourished in Portugal from 1905 to 1920. You can identify Art Nouveau by its beautiful tile façades, ornate wrought iron embellishments, and decorative stonework. Below are just a few of these lovely buildings. Walk around the area and you'll find many more gems.
    • 11 Largo Dr. José Barbosa, 19. Slim four-storey building with brick-like tiles in royal blue and cyan. One of Caldas' best.
    • 12 Rua Miguel Bombarda, 34–36. Blue and white leafy tiles with green and orange accents. Lovely windows and balconies. An excellent example of the genre.
    • 13 Rua Miguel Bombarda, 35–39 (formerly Móveis Pardal). Glazed green tiles with tulip motif.
    • 14 Rua Miguel Bombarda, 45–47. Dark red glazed tiles and beautiful wrought iron balconies.
    • 15 Rua de Camões, 41 (Pastelaria Machado). The bright green tiles include lettering touting the baked goods inside.
    • 16 Rua Almirante Cândido dos Reis (Rua das Montras), 34. Leafy tiles, ornate stonework, and plaques of ceramicists Raphael Bordallo Pinheiro and Bernard Palissy.
    • 17 Rua Alexandre Herculano (Rua do Jardim), 53. Dark green tiles with floral motif.
    • 18 Rua Capitão Filipe de Sousa, 52. Dark green glazed brick tiles with floral and leaf trim in white, green, blue, and pink.
  • 19 Chafariz das Cinco Bicas, Rua Diário de Notícias (between Praça da República and the hospital; TOMA Azul/Blue, Laranja/Orange, or Verde/Green to Cinco Bicas / CCC). Built in 1749, this baroque fountain is noted for its five spigots.
  • 20 Hospital Termal Rainha D. Leonor (Queen Leonor Thermal, or Spring Water, Hospital), Largo Rainha Dona Leonor (TOMA Azul/Blue to Praça da Fruta), +351 262 830 300, e-mail: . The raison d'être of Caldas da Rainha, the thermal hospital was founded by Queen Leonor after experiencing the healing properties of the sulfurous waters on this site. The older building was begun in 1485, and the newer one was completed in 1750. The hospital continues to operate to this day, subject to closures when impurities are found in the water. The waters are rich in minerals, particularly sulphur, and are prescribed to treat such ailments as arthritis, rheumatism, gout, sinusitis, rhinitis, laryngitis, bronchitis, and asthma.
  • 21 Jardim da Água (Water Garden) (between the hospital and the royal palace; TOMA Azul/Blue, Laranja/Orange, or Verde/Green to Cinco Bicas / CCC). A whimsical "garden" with water features, accented with tiles and towering sculptures.
  • 22 Parque Dom Carlos I (King Charles I Park) (TOMA Azul/Blue, Laranja/Orange, or Verde/Green to Rainha). This delightful, centrally located park is the main green space in Caldas da Rainha. The paths through the flowerbeds and trees make for a pleasant walk. The Museu José Malhoa sits in the middle of the park. Visitors can rent a rowboat to circumnavigate the small lake surrounding a petite island. The boathouse is now used for small art exhibitions, as is the Céu de Vidro, a skylight-covered alleyway between two old building connecting the park to the thermal hospital. The park contains numerous statues and sculptures, some of historical figures, others more whimsical and fun. The Pavilhões do Parque are several interconnected structures that have served various purposes in the past. These lovely buildings, which serve as a sort of emblem of the park, have unfortunately been allowed to degrade and are on the verge of ruin. Their beauty, however, is still evident, and their reflection on the lake makes for a popular photo opportunity. The park's amenities include a playground, picnic area, tennis courts, and restrooms. The park is named for the king who reigned Portugal from 19 October 1889 until his assassination at the age of 44 on 1 February 1908.
  • Rota Bordalliana (Bordallo Pinheiro Route), throughout the city centre. This collection of 20 ceramic art works inspired by Raphael Bordallo Pinheiro are spread throughout the city centre. The human figures are about life size, while the animals and plants are mostly larger than life.
  1. Largo de Estação/Roundabout Avenida 1º Maio – Big open-mouthed frog; Big sitting frog; Water lily; Small tile with frog and water lily;
  2. Avenida da Independência/ Upon the Kiosk – Bee;
  3. Rua Padre Emílio/Hemiciclo João Paulo II – Priest (covered);
  4. Praça 25 de Abril – Zé Povinho (covered);
  5. Praça 5 de Outubro / Em cima do Quiosque – Wolf with no plinth;
  6. Rua Sebastião de Lima – hunting cat;
  7. Rua Dr. Leão Azedo/Fachada da Rodotejo – 60 black and white storks;
  8. Rua Almirante Cândido dos Reis/ Edifício da Junta de Freguesia Nª Sra. Do Pópulo – Cabbage leave;
  9. Rua Doutor Leonel Sotto Mayor / Edifício do CCC – Ama das Caldas (covered);
  10. Rua Capitão Filipe de Sousa/Edifício da Loja da Reabilitação Urbana – 1 lizard;
  11. Edifício da Loja do Turismo (interior) : 4 lizards;
  12. Loja do Turismo (exterior): Policeman; Lizard; 2 snails;
  13. Topo da Praça da República / área verde – 2 groups of mushrooms; 2 turtles; 1 lizard;
  14. Largo José Barbosa – Countryside woman (covered);
  15. Parque D. Carlos I – monkeys hanging on the “monkey village”.
  • 23 Statue of Queen Leonor (Rainha Dona Leonor), Largo Conde de Fontalva (Largo da Rainha) (TOMA Azul/Blue, Laranja/Orange, or Verde/Green to Rainha). The Queen stands regally in a traffic circle, facing the park and welcoming visitors to the city centre.

Do[edit]

Culture[edit]

Centro Cultural e de Congressos.
  • 1 Centro Cultural e de Congressos (CCC, Cultural and Conference Centre), Rua Dr. Leonel Sotto Mayor (TOMA Azul/Blue, Laranja/Orange, or Verde/Green to Cinco Bicas / CCC), +351 262 094 081, +351 262 889 650, e-mail: . The main performing arts centre in Caldas da Rainha hosts music, theatre, and dance events, as well as conferences and exhibitions.
  • 2 Cineplace (formerly Vivacine), Rua Belchior de Matos, 11 (in the La Vie (formerly Vivaci) shopping centre; TOMA Azul/Blue, Laranja/Orange, or Verde/Green to Rainha). The only full-time cinema in Caldas. Tu–Su normal €6.60, student/youth/senior €5.60; M all €5.50; 3D ticket +€2; 3D glasses +€1.
  • 3 Encosta da Quinta/Quinta do Paço, Quinta do Paço, Alvorninha, +351 917 276 053, e-mail: . Make an appointment to visit this winery and its vineyards. Tastings are available.
  • 4 Expoeste, Av. Infante D. Henrique (TOMA Azul/Blue to Expoeste), +351 262 832 321, e-mail: . Caldas da Rainha's main exhibition centre hosts a variety of events including car shows, bridal expos, animal exhibitions, toy fairs and holiday parties.
  • 5 Pimpões - Sociedade de Instrução e Recreio (Society for Instruction and Recreation), Rua Fernando Correia (TOMA Verde/Green to Ponte), +351 262 877 740, e-mail: . Private club offering recreational and cultural activities. Membership: €2.50 initiation fee, €1/month; fees for various activities vary.
  • 6 Teatro da Rainha (Queen's Theatre), Rua Vitorino Fróis / Largo da Universidade, Edifício 2 (TOMA Laranja/Orange to Biblioteca), +351 262 823 302, e-mail: . Theatre troupe that puts on several productions each year.

Sport and outdoors[edit]

The beach at Foz do Arelho.
  • 7 Bowling Caldas, Avenida Vasco da Gama, 77 (TOMA Azul/Blue or Laranja/Orange to Piscinas), +351 262 824 348, e-mail: . daily 11:00–03:00. Bowl. Drink. Eat. Repeat. Ten lanes plus snooker, video games, and Thursday karaoke.
  • 8 Bullfighting, Praça de Touros (at the corner of Rua da Praça de Touros and Rua 31 de Janeiro; TOMA Azul/Blue, Laranja/Orange, or Verde/Green to Chafariz or Montepio). Although controversial among even the Portuguese themselves, bullfighting continues to be a popular spectator sport in this country. The bullring in Caldas hosts several bullfights each year. As mild consolation, the bull is not killed in the ring within the sight of spectators. The arena also hosts concerts and other spectacles.
  • 9 Caldas Sport Clube, Campo da Mata (off Rua Diário de Notícias), +351 262 832 918, e-mail: . Come cheer the local football (soccer) team. Once in the top division, Caldas now plays in Portugal's third division, confusingly called Campeonato de Portugal. The club celebrates its centennial in 2016.
  • 10 Escola de Vela da Lagoa, Rua do Penedo Furado, Nadadouro, +351 262 978 592, e-mail: . Learn windsurfing, kitesurfing, catamaran and optimist sailing, stand-up-paddle, canoeing, wakeboarding and water skiing on Óbidos Lagoon.
  • 11 Praias de Foz do Arelho (Foz do Arelho beaches) (exit 18 off the A8 motorway, then northwest on the N360 road; or exit 19 off A8, then northwest on Avenida/Variante Atlântica; frequent Rodoviária do Oeste bus service). The two closest beaches to Caldas da Rainha, 10 km from the city centre. One faces the Atlantic Ocean, and other is on the calmer Lagoa de Óbidos. Both beaches have earned the Blue Flag (Bandeira Azul) from the Foundation for Environmental Education and its Portuguese branch, Associação Bandeira Azul da Europa. The criteria for Blue Flag beaches cover four main areas: water quality; environmental information and education; environmental management; and safety and services.
  • 12 Indoor Karting Caldas da Rainha, Rua João Reis, 16A (in the industrial zone NW of the city; reachable via either the N360 road or Avenida Atlântica; walk from Rodoviária do Oeste bus service to Foz do Arelho), +351 262 084 912. Tu–Sa 16:00–2:00, Su 16:00–00:00, M closed. Indoor go-karting on a 315 m track. €12–20; €10–18 with loyalty card.
  • 13 Salir do Porto (limited Rodoviária do Oeste bus service; some Comboios de Portugal train service). The calm waters of this riverside beach near an enclosed bay make Salir do Porto a popular beach destination for families with young children.

Events[edit]

There'a always something going on in Caldas. In addition to the events listed below, make sure to keep an eye on the Centro Cultural e de Congressos (CCC), Expoeste, the Escola Superior de Arte e Design (ESAD.CR), the museums, and the event listings in the local papers.

Holidays[edit]

  • Ano Novo (New Year's Eve), Praça da República (Praça da Fruta). Welcome the new year with music and fireworks in the main square. Free.
  • Carnaval (Mardi Gras, Fat Tuesday), Avenida Primeiro (1º) de Maio, Praça 25 de Abril, Avenida da Independência Nacional. Traditionally, Carnaval celebrated one last hurrah and a huge party before the long Lenten season of repentance that precedes Easter, Christianity's most important holiday. Nowadays, Carnaval in Portugal takes on a more secular aspect, with little attention paid to religion. Festivities begin several days before, with a party for the aged and a children's parade. Celebrations culminate in a grand parade with costumed revelers and floats along Avenida Primeiro de Maio, the wide avenue that connects the railway station to the city hall. Young and old dress up, some preferring to make a political statement, others honoring the latest Marvel superhero or Disney princess, or dressing as fruits and vegetables.
  • Municipal Holiday. On May 15th, Caldas da Rainha celebrates itself. Music, fireworks, and the inauguration of civic works mark the occasion.
  • Nossa Senhora da Conceição. Caldenses honor Our Lady of the Conception each year on August 15 with a funfair, circus, rides, and food.

Arts and culture[edit]

  • Caldas Anima. In July and August, the city holds numerous events under the Caldas Anima banner: magic, theatre, circus, music, film, festivals and fairs.
  • Caldas Late Night, throughout the city, e-mail: . Late May brings Caldas Late Night, a two-day celebration of music, art, performance, multimedia, and design.
  • Caldas Nice Jazz, +351 262 094 081, +351 262 889 650, e-mail: . Late October and early November bring Caldas Nice Jazz, an international festival, with concerts both at the Cultural and Conference Centre (CCC) and at other venues in the city, including outdoors. €10-15/concert; students & seniors €7.50–12.50/concert; all 4 concerts at CCC: €40 (plus free CD); various free concerts.
  • Festival Ofélia – Festival de Teatro e Artes Performativas (Festival of Theatre and Performing Arts). Theatre students from the Escola Superior de Arte e Design (ESAD.CR), along with students from other Portuguese and international schools, celebrate the performing arts. Since its first edition in 2011, the audiences have grown ever larger.
  • [dead link] SIMPPETRA - International Stone Sculpture Symposium (Simpósio Internacional de Escultura em Pedra), e-mail: . A biennial gathering of sculptors at the Arts Centre in July or August. Sculptors create works that become municipal property, to be displayed permanently in public places throughout city and municipality. The artists are selected via application and are compensated for their work and travel expenses.

Food and agriculture[edit]

  • Caldas Street Food Fest, Avenida Primeiro (1º) de Maio, +351 914 512 247, e-mail: . 2018 brings Caldas' fourth annual street food festival from December 6 to 9. Come enjoy some delicious treats al fresco and in the shadow of the city's gigantic Christmas tree.
  • Expotur - Festa de Verão / Tasquinhas (Summer Festival / Food Stands). An annual 10-day celebration of Summer in early to mid August at the Expoeste exhibition centre. Visitors taste foods from throughout the communities in Caldas da Rainha municipality and watch folk dancers in traditional costumes. free admission, pay for food.
  • Frutos, Feira Nacional de Hortofruticultura (National Fruit and Horticulture Fair), Parque D. Carlos I, +351 262 839 724, e-mail: . M–Th 17:00–24:00 F 17:00–01:00 Sa 15:00–01:00 Su 15:00–24:00. 17–26 August 2018, Caldas celebrates fruits in the park. Food and drink abound. Musical entertainment nightly at 22:00. There will be 200 exhibitors and over a dozen restaurants, bars, wineries, traditional Portuguese smoked meats and charcuterie. There will also be entertainment throughout the city during this event. Concerts €3–5; 10-day tickets €15; children under 12 free.
  • Oeste Lusitano, Parque D. Carlos I, e-mail: . 19–21 May 2017. Come see the pure blood Lusitano horses.

Learn[edit]

  • The English Centre, Centro Comercial D. Carlos I, Rua Heróis da Grande Guerra 89 (TOMA Azul/Blue, Laranja/Orange, or Verde/Green to Heróis da Grande Guerra), +351 262 842 924, e-mail: . Office open M–F 09:30–13:00 & 14:00–19:00. This school offers courses in Portuguese for foreigners, as well as English and Spanish.

Buy[edit]

The Bordallo Pinheiro factory, source of Caldas's world-famous ceramics.

With more than 600 commercial establishments, Caldas da Rainha calls itself the "Capital of Traditional Commerce" and offers many shopping opportunities. The centre of town has several streets lined with stores, many of which are mom-and-pop shops and boutiques, with a smattering of chains. Main shopping streets include Rua Heróis da Grande Guerra, Rua Almirante Cândido dos Reis (Rua das Montras), Rua Capitão Filipe de Sousa, Rua Miguel Bombarda, Rua da Liberdade, Rua de Camões, and surrounding streets.

If you're looking for a souvenir of Caldas, you should buy some of the famous local ceramic pottery. The factory of Raphael Bordallo Pinheiro produces useful and decorative pieces. For those who enjoy naughtier mementos, Caldas is noted for its ceramic phalluses, which like the real thing come in various sizes and can be found all over town.

Caldas has a tradition of embroidery (bordado) of molasses brown thread on white linen. Legend holds that Queen Leonor's handmaidens, seeing the monarch without her usual brilliance after selling off her jewellery, embroidered her cloak so that it appeared to have golden threads. Common themes include arachnids, spirals, angles, birds, hearts, crowns, and shrimp nets.

If you're on a tight budget or enjoy bargain hunting, head for one of Caldas's several Chinese-immigrant-owned shops (lojas chinesas). Merchandise at these cheap stores includes housewares, small appliances, cleaning supplies, clothing, toys, decor, and more. The emphasis is on price, not quality. Don't expect familiar brands.

Malls and Markets[edit]

  • 1 Centro Comercial D. Carlos I, Rua Dr. Carlos Manuel Saudade e Silva (TOMA Azul/Blue, Laranja/Orange, or Verde/Green to Heróis da Grande Guerra), e-mail: . M–Sa 08:00–22:00. This two-storey shopping centre is located smack-dab in the heart of the city. The centre is dominated by small businesses. You'll often find yourself attended to by the owner.
  • 2 Feira Semanal (Mercado Semanal; weekly market), Rua Diário de Notícias (TOMA Azul/Blue to Mercado; or walk up hill west of the Praça da República past the hospital). M 07:00–14:00. Caldas da Rainha's weekly market is held every Monday. The market is a great source for cheap basics including clothes, shoes, linens, tools, and housewares. Plants and small animals are also for sale here. A few kiosks serve down-home Portuguese cooking.
  • 3 Praça da República / Praça da Fruta (Republic Square / Fruit Square) (TOMA Azul/Blue to Praça da Fruta), e-mail: . Daily 07:00–15:00, except 1 Jan & 25 Dec. Caldas da Rainha's main square, located in the centre of town, hosts Portugal's only remaining daily outdoor farmers' market. In addition to fresh fruits and vegetables, you can buy bread, cheese, flowers, and Caldas's famous pottery. The most typical of local produce is the pêra rocha (rock pear).
  • 4 La Vie Caldas da Rainha Shopping Center (formerly Vivaci), Rua Belchior de Matos 11 (TOMA Azul/Blue, Laranja/Orange, or Verde/Green to Rainha), +351 262 870 020. Daily 10:00–23:00. The largest mall in Caldas da Rainha has four floors and 60 shops and services, including clothing stores, a large appliance and electronics store, and a supermarket. The centre includes a food court with 15 restaurants and a five-screen cinema. The 440-space garage offers 2 hours of free parking.

Clothing[edit]

  • 5 Executiva, Rua Miguel Bombarda, 2 (TOMA Azul/Blue, Laranja/Orange, or Verde/Green to Heróis da Grande Guerra), +351 262 832 054, e-mail: . M–F 10:00–19:00 Sa 09:30–19:00 Su closed. Fine ladies wear for work or festivities.
  • 6 Ramiro, Rua Heróis da Grande Guerra, 57 (TOMA Azul/Blue, Laranja/Orange, or Verde/Green to Heróis da Grande Guerra), +351 262 832 298, e-mail: . In business since 1952 and currently owned by the founder's son, Ramiro offers both ready-to-wear and made-to-measure men's clothing. Products on offer include suits, shirts, ties, hats, and overcoats.
  • 7 Rosan Jeans (Rosario & Santos), Rua Alexandre Herculano (Rua do Jardim) 9 (TOMA Azul/Blue, Laranja/Orange, or Verde/Green to Heróis da Grande Guerra, Terminal Rodoviário or Montepio), +351 262 835 773, e-mail: . M–F 10:00–13:00 & 15:00–21:00, Sa 10:00–13:00 & 15:00–20:00. Like the name says: jeans. They carry Levi's, Lee, Wrangler, No Excess, and Timezone, among other brands.
  • 8 Sportino Megastore, Rua Heróis da Grande Guerra, 123 & 125 (TOMA Azul/Blue, Laranja/Orange, or Verde/Green to Heróis da Grande Guerra), +351 262 832 267, e-mail: . M–Sa 10:30–13:30 & 14:30–19:30 SU closed. This local sportswear chain was founded in Bombarral in 1982. They carry international brand names—like Adidas, Levi's, Nike, Puma, Timberland—as well as new names to explore. Their forte is footwear, but you'll find clothing and accessories here as well.
  • 9 Sublime, Rua Heróis da Grande Guerra, 87 (TOMA Azul/Blue, Laranja/Orange, or Verde/Green to Heróis da Grande Guerra), +351 262 832 054, e-mail: . M–F 10:00–19:00 Sa 09:30–19:00 Su closed. Fine underwear for men and women.

Gifts and Other[edit]

  • 10 Artemis, Rua Heróis Grande Guerra, 163 (TOMA Azul/Blue, Laranja/Orange, or Verde/Green to Montepio or Terminal Rodoviário), +351 262 823 570, e-mail: . M–F 09:30–13:00 & 14:30–19:30 Sa 10:00–13:00 & 15:00-18:00. Fine gifts, including Portuguese brands Atlantis Crystal and Vista Alegre porcelains. Artemis also carries various quality pen brands.
  • 11 Bordallo Pinheiro Factory Store & Outlet, Rua Rafael Bordallo Pinheiro, 53 (TOMA Verde/Green to Centro d'Artes), +351 262 880 568, e-mail: . You can find Raphael Bordallo Pinheiro's (1846–1905) ceramic creations all over the world. But what better place to buy your decorative and useful fruit-, vegetable-, plant-, and animal-shaped wares than at the source? The most popular design might be the cabbage-shaped soup tureen. The Golden Girls had one proudly displayed in their kitchen.
  • 12 Livraria Alfarrabista Liliana Queiroz, Rua Tenente Sangreman Henriques, 34 (One block N of the bus station. TOMA Azul/Blue, Laranja/Orange, or Verde/Green to Chafariz or Montepio, or TOMA Laranja/Orange or Verde/Green to Terminal Rodoviário), +351 262 824 654, e-mail: . M–F 10:00–13:00 & 15:00–19–00. This bookshop carries rare, old, and used books. Beyond pricy tomes, the shop carries a large selection of books for €2.50.
  • 13 Mercearia Pena, Rua Heróis da Grande Guerra, 51 (TOMA Azul/Blue, Laranja/Orange, or Verde/Green to Heróis da Grande Guerra), +351 262 832 580, e-mail: . M–F 09:00–13:00 & 15:00–19:30, Sa 09:00–13:00. More than just a grocery store, Mercearia Pena has been selling quality traditional Portuguese foodstuffs since 1909. Especially noted for its home-ground coffee, the small shop also carries cod, sausages, cheese, spices, cookies, dried legumes and fruits, and more.
  • 14 Sufoz Action Sports (Surfoz Surfshop), Rua Victorino Fróis, 44A (on the "old" road to Foz do Arelho; TOMA Laranja/Orange to Biblioteca or CENCAL), +351 262 833 732. M–Sa 10:00–20:00, Su 14:00–20:00. For your surfing, skating, bodyboard, BMX, and other action sports needs.

Eat[edit]

If you have a sweet tooth, don't miss out on cavacas das Caldas. These sugar-encrusted confections are the approximate size and shape of a small bowl. They can be found throughout the city, but especially on Rua da Liberdade and in the farmers' market. They come in a smaller spherical version called beijinhos das Caldas. Other treats include trouxas de ovos (sweet poached eggs), lampreias de ovos (egg lampreys), and pão-de-ló do Landal (Landal sponge cake). Savory dishes typical of Caldas include ensopado de enguias da lagoa (stewed lagoon eels), bacalhau à lagareiro (cod in olive oil), polvo à lagareiro (octopus in olive oil), and fatias de carne frita à moda do Landal (Landal-style sliced fried meat).

Restaurants[edit]

This page uses the following price ranges for a typical meal for one, including soft drink:
Budget Under €10
Mid-range €10 - €20
Splurge Over €20

Budget[edit]

  • 1 A Lanterna, Rua Alexandre Herculano (Rua do Jardim), 78 (TOMA Azul/Blue, Laranja/Orange, or Verde/Green to Heróis da Grande Guerra or Terminal Rodoviário), +351 262 824 301, e-mail: . Daily 07:00–24:00. Popular with locals from all walks of life, A Lanterna serves hearty Portuguese comfort food at prices that won't break the bank. On Thursdays, they offer the flavours of Angola, a former Portuguese colony in Africa. €5–€10.
  • 2 La Piazza Pizzaria, Praça 5 de Outubro (Antiga Praça do Peixe), 14A (TOMA Azul/Blue, Laranja/Orange, or Verde/Green to Heróis da Grande Guerra or Rainha), +351 262 834 426. M–Sa 11:00–23:00 Su closed. La Piazza offers a variety of pastas, including several preparations of penne, tagliatelle, tortellini, strozzapreti, and spaghetti. They also have several different salads. And with a name like that, they have pizza, of course—thirty different kinds in four sizes: 24 cm (9.4 in.), 31 cm (12.2 in.), 36 cm (14.2 in.), 50 cm (19.7 in.). You can eat indoors, but if it's a nice day out, you'll want to sit in the plaza that gives the restaurant its name. €4–10.
  • 3 Pizzeria Novo Mundo, Rua da Praça de Touros, 25B (TOMA Azul/Blue to Chafariz), +351 262 842 969, e-mail: . M–Sa 11:00–22:00. Be adventurous and try a Portuguese take on pizza. While the menu does include some tamer pizzas, consider the Pizza Tropical (mushrooms, peach, pineapple, corn, and banana) or the Pizza Vegetariana, Atum e Ovo (vegetables, mushroom, tuna, and egg). They deliver.
  • 4 TBAC - The Bread and Coffee, Rua Coronel Soeiro de Brito, 34-A (TOMA Azul/Blue, Laranja/Orange, or Verde/Green to Terminal Rodoviário or Montepio; across from bus station), +351 262 831 062, e-mail: . M–F 08:00–19:30 Sa 8:00–19:00. Quirky fast food, ice cream, coffee, and more. €3–€7.

Mid-range[edit]

  • 5 Adega do Albertino, Rua Júlio Sousa, 7; Imaginário (a bit east of town just off the N114-1 road; served by Rodoviária do Oeste buses), +351 262 835 152, e-mail: . Tu–Th 12:00–13:30 F–Su 12:00–15:00 Tu–Sa 19:00–23:00. Traditional Portuguese cuisine in a rustic country setting.
  • 6 A Capelinha do Monte, Praça 5 de Outubro (Antiga Praça do Peixe), 22 (TOMA Azul/Blue, Laranja/Orange, or Verde/Green to Heróis da Grande Guerra or Rainha), +351 262 832 031, e-mail: . M Tu 08:30–16:00 W–Sa 08:30–22:00 Su closed. Homey traditional Portuguese food, with an emphasis on steak.
  • 7 Cervejaria Camaroeiro Real, Travessa de Santo António 1 (TOMA Azul/Blue to Praça da Fruta), +351 262 834 470, e-mail: . M–Sa 09:00–02:00 Su 11:30–23:00. This beer hall specializes in traditional Portuguese cuisine, with an emphasis on shrimp, fish, and beef. They've served the heart of Caldas since 1968 on a narrow lane a block from the farmers' market. €6–€23.
  • 8 Delhi Darbar, Rua General Amilcar Mota, 21, R/C (TOMA Verde/Green to Centro Paroquial), +351 262 104 526. Tu–Su 12:00–15:00 and daily 18:00 to 23:30. Indian cuisine in a colorful setting. The extensive menu lists over 150 items, including many vegetarian options. €9–€27.
  • 9 Kyodai, Avenida Dom Manuel Freire da Câmara, 5 (in the La Vie (formerly Vivaci) shopping centre; TOMA Azul/Blue, Laranja/Orange, or Verde/Green to Rainha). Sushi and other East Asian morsels go 'round and 'round on a conveyor belt. The food is okay, but it's all about the conveyor experience.
  • 10 Lily Cake, Rua Cambo-les-Bains 5 (TOMA Azul/Blue to Cidade Nova), +351 913 759 545, e-mail: . M–F 07:00–19:00, Sa 08:00–17:00, Su 08:00–15:00. The perfect spot for homesick Brits. Lily Cake offers full English breakfast, afternoon tea, and pastries of both Great Britain and Portugal.
  • 11 Meia Tigela, Hemiciclo João Paulo II, 9A (TOMA Azul/Blue, Laranja/Orange, or Verde/Green to Câmara), +351 262 833 173, e-mail: . M–Th 12:00–15:00 and 19:30–23:00, F Sa 12:00–15:00 and 19:30–23:30, Su closed. Portuguese, continental, and international cuisine among reclaimed wood, salvaged furniture, and homemade art. Menu posted daily on Facebook. €6–€25.
  • 12 A Mimosa, Praça 5 de Outubro (Antiga Praça do Peixe), 37 (TOMA Azul/Blue, Laranja/Orange, or Verde/Green to Heróis da Grande Guerra or Rainha), +351 262 832 735. M–Sa 08:00–23:30 Su closed. Typical Portuguese cooking, specializing in fish. In business since 1961.
  • 13 Restaurante Tijuca, Rua de Camões, 89 (TOMA Azul/Blue to Praça da Fruta), +351 262 824 255. M–Sa 07:00–02:15. Tucked away below street level at a corner on the plaza with the thermal hospital, Tijuca offers unpretentious and tasty fare in a cozy, convivial atmosphere. The efficient hostess/waitress(/owner?) flits from table to table, making recommendations and taking orders in several languages.

Splurge[edit]

  • 14 A Lareira, Rua da Lareira, 35; Alto do Nobre, Nadadouro (northwest of town, between the two main roads to Foz do Arelho; a walk from the frequent Rodoviária do Oeste bus to Foz do Arelho), +351 262 823 432, e-mail: . Portuguese and international cuisine. €10–€30.
  • 15 Maratona, Praça 25 de Abril, 15 (TOMA Azul/Blue, Laranja/Orange, or Verde/Green to Câmara), +351 262 841 483. Restaurant: M–Sa 12:00–15:00 & 19:30–23:30; Café: Su–W 08:00–24:00 Th–Sa 08:00–02:00; Lounge: F 23:00–02:00 Sa 23:00–03:00 holiday eves 23:00–02:00. International and traditional Portuguese cuisine, with a selection of vegetarian dishes. €20–€40.
  • 16 Sabores d'Italia, Praça 5 de Outubro (Antiga Praça do Peixe), 40 (TOMA Azul/Blue, Laranja/Orange, or Verde/Green to Heróis da Grande Guerra or Rainha), +351 262 845 600, e-mail: . Lunch Tu–Su 12:30–14:30, Dinner Tu–Su 19:00–22:00. Possibly the most upmarket restaurant in Caldas, Sabores d'Italia serves as genuine Italian cuisine as you are likely to find in Portugal. €9–€60.

Supermarkets[edit]

Whether to stock up your pantry during an extended stay or just to see what the typical Portuguese buys during their weekly grocery shopping, you should stop by a supermercado (supermarket) during your visit. Some larger stores that carry merchandise beyond basic groceries are referred to as hipermercados (hypermarkets).

  • 17 Aldi, Avenida Timor Lorosae (TOMA Laranja/Orange to CENCAL). Daily 09:00–21:00. This German chain is known for low prices, prevalence of house brands rather than internationally-recognized brand names, and spartan decor.
  • 18 Continente Modelo, Rua Bernardino António Carvalho Pargana (TOMA Azul/Blue, Laranja/Orange, or Verde/Green to Centro de Saúde), +351 262 840 870. Portuguese hypermarket located near the edge of town. Great variety, including separate health and beauty aids shop and dry cleaning within the building.
  • 19 E.Leclerc, Quinta do Salgado (TOMA Laranja/Orange to CENCAL), +351 262 870 130. Hypermarket: daily 08:30–22:00; service station: daily 24 hours. French hypermarket chain. Can't make it to Paris? You'll feel like you're there. (OK, not really, but the store brand labels include French as well as Portuguese and other European languages.)
  • 20 Lidl, Rua Dr. Bernardino António Carvalho Pargana (TOMA Azul/Blue, Laranja/Orange, or Verde/Green to Centro de Saúde). Daily 08:00–22:00. A spartan German chain known for low prices and stocking more house brands than famous ones. Sparse interior, but recently remodeled.
  • 21 Meu Super, Rua das Hortas, 25, Foz do Arelho, +351 262 978 300. Daily 08:00–21:00. Owned by the same parent company as the larger Continente Modelo.
  • Minipreço. Portuguese arm of Spanish hard discounter. You'll find brand names as well as the house brand Dia.
    • 22 Minipreço I (Urbana), Rua Engº Duarte Pacheco 5 (TOMA Azul/Blue, Laranja/Orange, or Verde/Green to Montepio or Terminal Rodoviário), +351 808 200 795. M–Sa 09:00–20:00 Su closed. The smaller city-centre location. Includes butcher, produce, and bakery.
    • 23 Minipreço II (Parking), Avenida Timor Lorosae (TOMA Laranja/Orange to CENCAL), +351 808 200 795. Daily 09:00–21:00. Larger location in Santo Onofre, including a carpark. Includes produce, bakery, and prepackaged meats.
  • 24 Pão de Açúcar, Av. D. Manuel Figueira Freire da Câmara (in the La Vie (formerly Vivaci) shopping centre; TOMA Azul/Blue, Laranja/Orange, or Verde/Green to Rainha), +351 217 103 440, e-mail: . Daily 10:00–22:00; Jul–Sep: Su–Th 09:00–22:30 F Sa 09:00–23:00. Owned by French Group Auchan, which also owns Jumbo supermarkets in Portugal. A leading Portuguese consumer magazine says they have the lowest prices in town.
  • Pingo Doce. Quintessential Portuguese supermarket (despite minority stake owned by a Dutch firm). Their house brand is known for good quality and value.
    • 25 Pingo Doce - Heróis Da G. Guerra, Rua Heróis da Grande Guerra, 95 (TOMA Azul/Blue, Laranja/Orange, or Verde/Green to Heróis da Grande Guerra), +351 262 845 399. Daily 08:30–21:00. This small city-centre location still manages to pack in a lot of food and other supermarket essentials.
    • 26 Pingo Doce - Vitorino Fróis, Rua Vitorino Fróis (Rua da Estrada da Foz) (TOMA Laranja/Orange to CENCAL), +351 262 841 641. Daily 09:00–21:00; Summer: 08:30–21:00. Larger location in Santo Onofre.
    • 27 Pingo Doce - Tornada, Estrada da Tornada (N8 road), +351 262 839 610. Daily 09:00–22:00. "Mega" location, north of the city.

Drink[edit]

  • 1 Bar 120, Praça 5 de Outubro (Antiga Praça do Peixe), 33 (TOMA Azul/Blue, Laranja/Orange, or Verde/Green to Heróis da Grande Guerra or Rainha), +351 262 831 562, e-mail: . M–Sa 12:00–3:00. Bar 120 specializes in gin and tostas (toasted sandwiches, a sort of Portuguese panini). Outdoor seating allows guests to enjoy one of Caldas's pleasant plazas.
  • 2 Café Central, Praça da Republica (Praça da Fruta) 69-71 (TOMA Azul/Blue to Praça da Fruta), +351 262 838 787, e-mail: . daily 8:00–2:00. Founded in the 18th century, this café on the city's main square serves a variety of light meals and desserts, as well as coffee and tea.
  • 3 Coffee Nuts, Rua Alexandre Herculano (Rua do Jardim), 38 (TOMA Azul/Blue, Laranja/Orange, or Verde/Green to Heróis da Grande Guerra), +351 926 527 773, e-mail: . M–F 08:00–19:00 Sa 09:00–19:00 Su 10:00–19:00. Sit and enjoy your coffee and pastry, or grab and go. Lattes, cappuccinos, macchiatos, and hot chocolate are complemented by doughnuts, bagels and muffins. Cash only.
  • 4 Daiquiri Bar, Praça 5 de Outubro (Antiga Praça do Peixe), 5 (TOMA Azul/Blue, Laranja/Orange, or Verde/Green to Heróis da Grande Guerra or Rainha), +351 262 842 069. M–Sa 14:00–03:00; Su open only when there's a major football (soccer) game on. Another popular nightlife joint on Praça 5 de Outubro. Enjoy your beverage al fresco in the outdoor esplanade.
  • 5 Démondé, Rua Filinto Elísio, 34B, +351 914 541 921. Tu–Sa 21:30–03:00. Accompany your beer or shots with DJs playing indie, electronic, funk, and rock.
  • 6 Pastelaria Baía (Rei das Cavacas), Rua da Liberdade 33 (TOMA Azul/Blue to Praça da Fruta), +351 262 832 349. "The King of Cavacas" (and other regional sweets) sits on the plaza of the thermal hospital. Grab a coffee, a pastry, and an outside table to relax and watch.
  • 7 Raízes (formerly Café Pópulus), Parque D. Carlos I (off Rua de Camões) (TOMA Azul/Blue, Laranja/Orange, or Verde/Green to Rainha), +351 262 836 184, e-mail: . Tu W 10:00–00:00 Th–Sa 10:00–02:00 M closed. Kill two birds with one stone: enjoy your coffee and a pastry while communing with nature in Caldas's main park. With 60 seats inside and 180 outdoors, you're likely to find a roomy space. Cash only.

Sleep[edit]

  • 1 Caldas Internacional Hotel, Rua Dr. Artur Figueirôa Rego, 45 (TOMA Azul/Blue to Quinta dos Canários), +351 262 830 500, e-mail: . Three-star hotel at the northern approach to the city. Facilities include bar, restaurant, hot tub, swimming pool, and gym. Breakfast included in room rates. €50–110.
  • 2 Hotel Cristal Caldas, Rua António Sérgio, 31 (TOMA Azul/Blue, Laranja/Orange, or Verde/Green to Câmara), +351 262 840 260, e-mail: . Check-in: 14:00, check-out: 12:00. This three-star, 113-room hotel is located near the city centre, just a block north of the courthouse. Amenities include the Mestre Bordalo restaurant, a piano bar, swimming pool, meeting rooms, and conference facilities.
  • 3 Residencial Dom Carlos, Rua Camões, 39A (TOMA Azul/Blue, Laranja/Orange, or Verde/Green to Rainha), +351 262 832 551, e-mail: . The three-star, 18-room establishment is located across from the city's main park.
  • 4 Hotel Dona Leonor, Hemiciclo João Paulo II, 9 (TOMA Azul/Blue, Laranja/Orange, or Verde/Green to Câmara), +351 262 842 171, e-mail: . This three-star, 30-room establishment is centrally located, adjacent to the 20th-century Igreja de Nossa Senhora da Conceição (Church of Our Lady of the Conception). Amenities include free Wi-Fi throughout the property.
  • 5 Europeia Hotel, Rua Almirante Candido dos Reis, 64 (Centro Comercial Rua das Montras) (TOMA Azul/Blue, Laranja/Orange, or Verde/Green to Heróis da Grande Guerra), +351 262 839 320, e-mail: . This three-star, 55-room hotel is located in the heart of the city's shopping district. Amenities include a sitting area/lounge on each floor, a breakfast room, a cocktail bar, a billiard lounge, meeting rooms, and a business centre.
  • 6 Inatel Foz do Arelho, Rua Francisco de Almeida Grandela, 17; Foz do Arelho (on the N360 road from Caldas da Rainha; frequent Rodoviária do Oeste bus service), +351 262 975 100, e-mail: . Three-star accommodation across from the lagoon beach.
  • 7 Sana Silver Coast Hotel (formerly known as Hotel Lisbonense), Av. D. Manuel Figueira Freire da Câmara (TOMA Azul/Blue, Laranja/Orange, or Verde/Green to Rainha), +351 262 000 600, fax: +351 262 000 601, e-mail: . Built on the site of and in the style of the venerable Hotel Lisbonense, the SANA Silver Coast Hotel offers four-star accommodation in the heart of the city. Amenities include free Wi-Fi, Lisbonense restaurant, a lounge & bar space and meeting rooms.

Stay safe[edit]

As in the rest of Portugal, the emergency number for police, fire, and medical assistance is 112.

Police and fire[edit]

Hospitals and clinics[edit]

  • 30 Hospital Distrital Caldas da Rainha (Centro Hospitalar do Oeste), Rua Diário de Notícias (TOMA Azul/Blue, Laranja/Orange, or Verde/Green to Hospital), +351 262 830 300, fax: +351 262 880 579, e-mail: . emergencies 24 hrs daily. The only public hospital in Caldas da Rainha, also serving surrounding municipalities. If you experience a medical emergency in town, you'll likely end up here.
  • 31 Centro de Saúde Caldas da Rainha (health centre), Rua do Centro de Saúde (TOMA Azul/Blue, Laranja/Orange, or Verde/Green to Centro de Saúde), +351 262 870 380, fax: +351 262 870 381, e-mail: . M–F 08:00–20:00 Sa 09:00–13:00 Su closed. The main public health clinic in Caldas. Appointment may be necessary.
  • 32 Montepio Rainha D. Leonor, Rua do Montepio Rainha D. Leonor, 9 (TOMA Azul/Blue, Laranja/Orange, or Verde/Green to Montepio or Terminal Rodoviário), +351 262 837 100, fax: +351 262 837 131, e-mail: . A private, membership-based mutual assistance society that operates a "house of health" in the city centre. Although it is smaller and more expensive than the public hospital, many Caldas residents who can afford Montepio prefer the more personalized service offered.

In addition, each of the following rural civil parishes has a health clinic: A dos Francos, Alvorninha, Foz do Arelho, Landal (Rostos), Salir de Matos, Santa Catarina, Tornada, and Vidais.

Pharmacies[edit]

There are seven pharmacies in the city of Caldas da Rainha. They take turns being open 24 hours. You can find the current farmácia de serviço listed under Permanente here. This information is also posted on the door of each pharmacy, on municipal electronic signs in the city centre, and in the local newspapers.

  • 33 Farmácia Branco Lisboa, Rua Almirante Cândido dos Reis (Rua das Montras), 25 (TOMA Azul/Blue, Laranja/Orange, or Verde/Green to Heróis da Grande Guerra or Azul/Blue to Praça da Fruta), +351 262 832 324, fax: +351 262 831 629. M–F 09:00–19:30 Sa 09:00–13:00 Su closed.
  • 34 Farmácia Caldense, Praça 5 de Outubro (Antiga Praça do Peixe), 7 (TOMA Azul/Blue, Laranja/Orange, or Verde/Green to Heróis da Grande Guerra or Rainha), +351 262 832 256, fax: +351 262 843 831, e-mail: . M–F 09:00–13:00 & 14:30–19:00 Sa 09:00–13:00 Su closed.
  • 35 Farmácia Central, Praça da República (Praça da Fruta), 15 (TOMA Azul/Blue to Praça da Fruta), +351 262 831 471, fax: +351 262 831 496, e-mail: . M–F 09:00–19:30 Sa 09:00–13:00 Su closed.
  • 36 Farmácia Maldonado, Rua Tenente Sangreman Henriques, 12 (TOMA Azul/Blue, Laranja/Orange, or Verde/Green to Chafariz or Montepio), +351 262 831 484, fax: +351 262 844 847, e-mail: . M–F 09:00–19:30 Sa 09:00–13:00 Su closed.
  • 37 Farmácia Perdigão, Rua Dr. Augusto Saudade e Silva, 15 (TOMA Verde/Green to Ponte), +351 262 840 580, fax: +351 262 840 582, e-mail: . M–F 09:00–13:00 & 14:30–19:30 Sa Su closed.
  • 38 Farmácia Freitas (formerly Farmácia Rainha), Rua Engenheiro Marcelo Morgado, 1–3 (TOMA Azul/Blue to Cutileira), +351 262 839 450, fax: +351 262 839 459. M–F 09:00–19:30 Sa 09:00–13:00 Su closed.
  • 39 Farmácia Rosa, Avenida Primeiro de Maio, 12A (TOMA Azul/Blue, Laranja/Orange, or Verde/Green to Câmara), +351 262 831 996, fax: +351 262 824 694, e-mail: . M–F 08:30–19:30 Sa 09:00–13:00 Su closed.

In addition, the each of the following rural civil parishes has a pharmacy: A dos Francos, Alvorninha, Foz do Arelho, Landal, Salir de Matos, Santa Catarina, Tornada, and Vidais.

Connect[edit]

The city dialing code for Caldas da Rainha is 262 , which must be included for local calls. To call Portugal from abroad, dial country code 351 before the city code. To call abroad from Portugal, dial 00 before the country code.

The postal code for Caldas is 2500.

  • 40 [dead link] Biblioteca Municipal (Public Library), Rua Vitorino Fróis (TOMA Laranja/Orange to Biblioteca), +351 262 841 728, e-mail: . Oct–Jun M Sa 13:30–19:00 Tu–F 10:00–18:00; Jul-Sep M 13:30–19:00 Tu–F 10:00–13:00 & 14:30–18:00. Wi-Fi available.
  • 41 CTT Correios (Post Office), Rua Engenheiro Duarte Pacheco, 3 (TOMA Azul/Blue, Laranja/Orange, or Verde/Green to Montepio or Terminal Rodoviário), +351 262 840 040. M–F 08:30–18:30. Whether using their services or just passing by, don't miss the tile work and the ceramic logo on the side of the building.

Cope[edit]

Newspapers[edit]

Caldas has two weekly newspapers covering local happenings and events.

Laundry and dry cleaning[edit]

  • 5àsec. This France-based international chain has two locations in Caldas offering dry cleaning and laundry services.
    • 42 5àsec Continente Modelo, Rua Dr. Bernardino António Carvalho Pargana / C. C. Continente Modelo, Loja 2/3 (Adjacent to the Continente Modelo hypermarket; TOMA Azul/Blue, Laranja/Orange, or Verde/Green to Centro de Saúde), +351 914 192 358. Daily 09:00–22:00.
    • 43 5àsec Vivaci, Rua Belchior de Matos 11 (In the La Vie, formerly Vivaci, shopping centre; TOMA Azul/Blue, Laranja/Orange, or Verde/Green to Rainha), +351 914 192 358. Daily 09:00–23:00.
  • 44 Wash Station, Rua José Filipe Neto Rebelo 2A (TOMA Azul/Blue to PSP; near fire station), +351 969 330 190, e-mail: . Daily 08:00–21:00. This self-service launderette also offers pressing, mending, and delivery services.

Religious Services[edit]

Nossa Senhora da Conceição, a Roman Catholic church in the heart of Caldas.

Anglican[edit]

Assemblies of God[edit]

Baptist[edit]

Evangelical[edit]

Jehova's Witnesses[edit]

  • 51 Salão do Reino das Testemunhas de Jeová (Kingdom Hall of the Jehova's Witnesses), Rua da Jouriça 8A, +351 262 844 744. Congregation Bible Study Tu 20:00 (Foz do Arelho congregation), W 20:30 (Caldas da Rainha Sul congregation), Th 20:30 (Caldas da Rainha Norte congregation); Public Meeting Su 10:00 (Caldas da Rainha Norte & Foz do Arelho congregations), 15:00 (Caldas da Rainha Sul congregation).

Maná Christian Church[edit]

Pentecostal[edit]

Roman Catholic[edit]

Refer to the See > Churches section.

Russian Orthodox[edit]

Seventh Day Adventist[edit]

Universal Church of the Kingdom of God[edit]

Go next[edit]

Óbidos.

With its central location and excellent transport connections, Caldas da Rainha can serve as an excellent home base for exploring other places on Portugal's west coast (Oeste), including:

  • Alcobaça – visit the UNESCO World Heritage site Alcobaça Monestary
    • São Martinho do Porto – in the southwest of Alcobaça municipality and across from Salir do Porto, has a protected bay beach popular with families
  • Batalha – home to another UNESCO World Heritage monastery
  • Leiria – a castle and a cathedral
  • Nazaré – a picture-postcard beach town, lately noted for its surfing
  • Óbidos – Caldas' nearest neighbor is a walled medieval hilltop town
  • Peniche – beaches and water sports, access to the Berlengas archipelago


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