Prayagraj
Prayagraj (Hindi: प्रयागराज Prayāgrāj), formerly Allahabad, is one of the holiest cities in India, is in Uttar Pradesh. About 80 million people are expected to visit the Kumbh Mela, a Hindu pilgrimage in Prayagraj.
Understand
Prayagraj (pruh-yahg-rahj) is among the largest cities in Uttar Pradesh. Hindu mythology has it that for the Prakrishta Yajna, Lord Brahma, the creator God of the Hindu Trinity, chose a land on earth, on which the three rivers would flow in to a quiet confluence. Brahma also referred to it as Tirth Raj or the "king of all pilgrimage sites". Recorded evidence also exists in the Hindu scriptures (the Vedas and the grand epics, the Ramayana and the Mahabharata, as also in the Puranas) of this holy place formerly called Prayag. Prayagraj stands at the confluence of two of India's holiest rivers, the Ganges and the Yamuna. Sangam, as the confluence is called, is the venue of many sacred fairs and rituals, and attracts thousands of pilgrims throughout the year. This number swells to millions during the Kumbh Mela. An annual Magh Mela is also held in Prayagraj around the Sangam areas in the month of January (Magh is the name of month in Hindu calendar). A third mythical Saraswati river, believed to flow underground towards the Sangam, gives the confluence its other name, Triveni.
Emperor Akbar renamed this city in 1575 and called it Illahabas, which turned into Allahabad. The monarch realised its strategic importance as a waterway landmark in North India and also built a magnificent fort on the banks of the holy Sangam.
Over the centuries that followed, the then-Allahabad remained on the forefront of national importance, especially during the days of the Indian independence struggle. The chequered history of Prayagraj with its religious, cultural and historical ethos also gave rise to several renowned scholars (M. N. Saha, Harishchandra, Ravindra Khattree, Amar Nath Jha), poets (Suryakant Tripathi Nirala, Mahadevi Verma, Harivansh Rai Bachchan, Sumitra Nandan Panth), writers (Mahadevi Verma, Ramkumar Verma, Jagdish Gupta), thinkers (Purusottam Das Tandon), statesmen and leaders (Motilal Nehru, Jawaharlal Nehru, Murli Manohar Joshi) and the actor Amitabh Bachchan.
The city, an important cantonment during the British Raj, has some beautiful remnants of colonial architecture. In the early 20th century, University of Allahabad was the foremost centre of learning in the country. Prayagraj today is an important city where history, culture and religion create a confluence, much like the sacred rivers that caress it.
Prayagraj used to have a thriving industrial suburb (Naini) till the 1980s, but then those public sector units started closing down one by one, forcing entire generations of young educated Prayagrajis to migrate out of the city in search of work. Today, Prayagraj is slowly inching along in its dream to be an IT hub. And the government administrative offices remain alive and kicking.
In Prayagraj, you can enjoy:
- The politeness of "ahp" (आप, literally "us") and "hum" (हम, literally "we"), used as a form of respect instead of the singular.
- The subtle sense of humour of the person on the street.
- The fun of walking and travelling on rickshaws.
Get in
The best way to reach Prayagraj, if you are coming from outside India, is to take a direct flight to Delhi and then take one of the numerous connecting trains from Delhi to Prayagraj.
By plane
- 1 Prayagraj Airport (IXD IATA), Bamrauli Field. Essentially a military base with a small civil enclave. Alliance Air has a flight to Delhi. IndiGo flies to Bangalore (with plans to start service to Mumbai). Baggage is hand delivered after arrival so wait in the terminal if you have checked luggage for it to be delivered.
By train
Prayagraj is on the trunk train route from Delhi to Kolkata and from Mumbai to Kolkata, so it is well-connected by trains. Innumerable trains stop at Prayagraj.
There are several railway stations in the city, including 2 Prayagraj Junction 
, 3 Prayagraj Rambagh , 4 Prayag Junction and 5 Prayagraj Sangam Terminal.
Most of long distance trains call at Prayagraj Junction. Rambag station is generally used by trains that terminate in the city. Prayagraj Sangam Terminal is used mainly during the important religious festivals for the better management and control of extra pilgrim traffic on those occasions.
The Howrah Rajdhani Express, though a better train, lands at a very odd hour in Prayagraj (11:43PM) from Delhi which can be inconvenient for Prayagraj being a really quiet place at night. The best train from Delhi to Prayagraj is the Prayag Raj Express which leaves from New Delhi at 9:30PM and arrives in Prayagraj at 6AM next day. The train runs every day.
The New Delhi–Prayagraj Duronto Express leaving Prayagraj for New Delhi on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays at 10:40PM and reaches New Delhi at 06:05AM the next day with number 2275. This is a non-stop service with AC1, AC2, AC3 and non-AC 3 Tier composition. Down service from New Delhi leaves on Wednesdays, Fridays and Sundays at 11:00PM and reaches Prayagraj at 06:20AM the next day with number 2276. Fares are marginally higher than other superfast and express trains.
Other express trains include:
- From New Delhi:
- Rajdhani: Bhubaneswar Tejas Rajdhani Express, Dibrugarh Rajdhani Express, Rajendra Nagar Terminal Tejas Rajdhani Express, Ranchi Rajdhani Express, Sealdah Rajdhani Express
- Non-Rajdhani: Poorva Express, Prayagraj Humsafar Express, Varanasi Vande Bharat Express
- From Old Delhi: Brahmaputra Mail, Netaji Express
- From Howrah: Netaji Express, Poorva Express, Vibhuti Express
By car or bus
NH 19 connecting to Delhi and Kolkata, NH 35 connecting to Mirzapur, Jhansi and Udaipur, NH 30 connecting to Lucknow, Rewa and Southern India and NH 130 connecting to Sultanpur-Faizabad runs through the city. Several buses ply to and from nearby cities and towns.
Get around
Hire a cyclerickshaw. It is the cheapest, best and most widely available means of transport. You will have to haggle for the prices, though.
Auto rickshaws (3-wheelers) are also cheap modes of travel inside the city.
City buses are available on certain routes but their arrivals and departures are unpredictable.
See
- 1 Allahabad Fort. The Allahabad Fort, built from the year 1583 onwards by Akbar, stands at the junction of the two great rivers. It was the largest of Akbar's forts, and although its original form has been much impaired by early restoration work, the splendid Zenana Palace survives. It is a fine pavilion, with a central square hall carried on 64 columns bordered by a deep veranda of double columns and there are clusters of four in each corner.
- 2 Allahabad High Court, Nyaya Marg, Canton, Dhoomanganj, ☏ +91 532 242 2335. It is the seat of Justice in Uttar Pradesh, and is the oldest high court in the country with largest strength of judges.
- 3 Company Bagh (Alfred Park or Chandrashekhar Azad Park), Panna Lal Road. It is the place to experience the British era of Indian history. The park came up in 1870 during the visit of Prince Alfred (second son of Queen Victoria) and was named after him. It also came to be known as Company Bag. It is the largest park in Prayagraj and covers an area of 133 acres. Encircled in this park are Allahabad Museum (for details see Museum section), Victoria memorial and the public library. It was in this park where freedom fighter Chandrashekhar Azad shot himself with his last bullet on 27 Feb 1931. A memorial stands in his memory at the foot of the tree, where he shot himself. Located nearby is a full length statue of the freedom fighter. Post independence the park was renamed as Chandrashekhar Azad Park. ₹5rs.
- 4 Victorial Memorial (Inside Chandrashekhar Azad Park). Victoria Memorial is not a memorial but a canopy, which once housed the imposing marble statue of Queen Victoria. The impressive marble canopy along with the statue was installed in 1905 and was inaugurated by Sir James John Digges La Touche, the governor of United Provinces of Agra and Oudh. In 1960s the statue of Queen Victoria was removed and shifted to the Municipal Museum in Lucknow. The canopy has been vacant ever since.
- 5 Thornhill Mayne Memorial (Allahabad Public Library), Chandra Sekhar Azad Park, ☏ +91 532 2460197, info@allahabadpublib.org. The marvelous monuments is perched in Company Garden. The monument served as the house of the legislative assembly during the British era, when Allahabad was the capital of United Provinces. It has been converted to the Public Library. The monument is beautifully carved from white sandstone and is drenched in Gothic serenity.
- 6 Khusro bagh. 08:00-20:00. Khusro Bagh is a walled Mughal styled garden and burial chamber located just south of the Allahabad (Prayagraj) Junction station. It is named after Mirza Khusro, the eldest son of Jahangir and elder brother of Shah Jahan. The complex contains three mighty tombs along with a smaller tomb, dating back to the early 17th century. The complex also contains two fountains, water channels and pavilions. It is approached through a massive gateway on the south. During the Revolt of 1857 Khusrau Bagh became the headquarters of the sepoys under Maulvi Liaquat Ali who took charge as the Governor of liberated Prayagraj. The area surrounding is also known as Khusro Bagh, the crowded locality is known for the famous 'Allahabadi Guavas'. Free.
- 7 Khusro bagh gate (south). The red sandstone gateway of Khusro Bagh is located on the south side of the complex. Above the arched gate is a beautiful calligraphy inscription executed by Jahangir's master calligrapher Mir Abdullah Mushkin Qalam. It mentions that the gate dates back to 1606 - 07. It also mentioned that it was designed by Aqa Reza and was commissioned by Jahangir. The massive arched wooden arched doorway is nailed with several horseshoes of different sizes. The gate is topped with battlement and contains several ornate oriel windows. The gate is heavily encroached and photographing the entire structure is difficult. This gate leads to the Yamuna River. There is a gateway on the northern side which is more frequently used.
- 8 Khusro bagh gate (north), Station Road. This gate located on Station Road provides easy access and is more frequently used. This is a new gate and has no historic significence.
- 9 Shah Begum's Tomb (Tomb of Jahangir's mother). Shah Begum' was the wife of Jahangir and the mother of Khurso Mirza. She was born as Man Bai and was the daughter of Raja Bhagwant Das, the ruler of Amer. She overdosed on opium in 1604, and the tomb was built in 1606. Designed by Aqa Reza, the elaborate calligraphy was executed by Mir Abdullah Mushkin Qalam. Shah Begum's Tomb is the principal tomb of the complex and occupies the central position. The three-tiered structure is built entirely with sandstone and stands on a high plinth. It is topped with a chatri and crowned with an elaborate finial.
- 10 Nithar Begum's Tomb. Nithar Begum was Khurso Mirza's sister and daughter of Shah Begum. The tomb came up in 1624 - 25 and is the last of the three great tombs of Khusro bagh. It is also the most elaborate of the three tombs. A two-story structure built on a raised plinth, the material used is primarily red sandstone. The tomb chamber is approached through an elaborate doorway carved within the plinth that leads to the lower level (meant to house the actual grave). The two tired upper part is crowned with a massive dome topped with a beautiful finial. The dome is flanked with four chatris in the four corners and the four corners of the structure houses slender minerates. The interior houses finest frescoes of the Mughal period complete with elaborately painted stars in concentric circles. A series of inscriptions runns throughout the inner walls of the tomb.
- 11 Khusrau Mirza's Tomb. Khurso Mirza, the eldest son of Jahangir was executed in 1622 under the order of Prince Khurram (later Saha Jahan). Today his tomb is the easternmost of the tombs of Khurso Bagh. The sandstone single-storey (although it seems to be double-storey from outside) mausoleum stands on a low plinth. It is topped with a masive dome standing on a octagonal drum. The dome is crowned with a decorative finial. The four corners are maarked with chatris. Slender minerates marks the four corners of the upper storey. The interior contains brightly coloured fresco along with intricate calligraphy. Apart frpm the grave of Khurso Mirza the tomb houses tqo other graves in arcaded niches on opposite ends of each other. The south east corner of the plinth houes the grave of Khurso's horse.
- 12 Bibi Tamolon's Tomb. On the western side of the three tombs lies the lone tomb of Bibi Tamolon. Nothing much is known about the tomb or its occupant. The sandstone built octagonal tomb stands on a high plinth and is topped with a dome.
- 13 Minto Park (Madan Mohan Malaviya Park) (Between Fort and Yamuna Bridge). It was at this very place in 1858 Lord canning read out the declaration of Queen Victoria's Proclamation which resulted in the complete transfer of control over India from The East India Company to the government of Britain. To commemorate the 50th anniversary of the event Lord Minto installed a proclamation pillar in 1908. The marble pillar was topped with busts of Queen Victoria and Edward VII. In 1910 the park was named as Minto Park. Later after independence the two busts were removed and replaced by the Ashokan Lion Capital and the park was renamed as Madan Mohan Malaviya Park. Next to the park is a British era Christian cemetery containing graves of British soldiers killed during the Revolt of 1857.
- 14 University of Allahabad Campus. The 4th oldest university of India, it has various neo-Gothic monuments. The university originally started as the Muir College in 1872. With the foundation of the Allahabad University in 1921 the Muir College merged with the newly formed university. The college was founded by William Muir, Lieutenant Governor of the North-West Provinces of India. The Muir College complete with domes and tower is built in Indo-Saracenic style. It is designed by William Emerson and has an interesting blend of Indian and Persian elements. Zoological museum, known as Agharkar Museum, is housed in the Department of Zoology. The museum houses a collection of skeletons of mammoth and elephants. The archaeology department also has its own museum.
- 15 Mayo Memorial and Town Hall. 10:00am - 5:00pm. Mayo Memorial and Town Hall was constructed in 1879 in memory of Lord Mayo, the Viceroy of India who was assassinated in the Andamans in 1872. The foundation stone of the building was laid by Lord Lytton and was designed by Richard Southwell Bourke. The hall is meant for public meetings and elaborate parties. The structure is dominated by a 180 high tower. The interior of this memorial hall was ornamented with designs by Professor Gamble of the South Kensington Museum. The interiors are accessible to tourists and consist of. huge hall supported by decorative pillars and gothic arches.
- 16 Old Naini Bridge. Old Nani Bridge is one of the oldest bridge of the country it runs in the north-south direction across the Yamuna River connecting Prayagraj to the Naini area. The road and rail bridge came up in 1865 and established the rail link between Kolkata and Delhi. In 1927 a lower deck was added to the bridge providing two-way traffic for both rail and road. Interestingly one of the pillars of the bridge is shaped like a shoe, this was done for the current of the river. The pillar came to be known as "gentleman's shoe.".
- 17 New Yamuna Bridge Naini. The New Yamuna Bridge Naini is located west of the Old Naini Bridge and is parallel to it. The cable styled bridge came up in 2004 had provides 6 lane road traffic. The bridge allows pedestrians and provides great views of the Yamuna River along with Old Naini Bridge. A boat ride below the bridge provides a great view of the bridge.
Museums
Visit to a historical city like Prayagraj can not be complete without understanding and feeling its vibrant and varied history. The city is rich in museums and offers attractive spots for people of every discourse.
- 18 Allahabad Museum, Chandrashekhar Azad Park, Kamala Nehru Road, ☏ +91 532 240 7409, aldamasalld@sancharnet.in. Tu-Su 10:30 to 16:30; closed gazetted holidays and Sunday falling after second Saturday. Spot for the lovers of ancient history. Prayagraj being a historical city, the museum offers a convenient way to explore the history of the city and vicinity. Stone sculptures, terracottas, miniature paintings, modern Indian paintings, seals, sealing, coins, presents from Jawaharalal Nehru, miniature objects, handicrafts, firms, manuscripts, arms and armour inscription, thangkas. Citivithika half yearly. Library. Guide service; film shows on request; Lectures. Photography allowed on payment of ₹25 per snap. Multi-purpose museum. Adult Indian citizens: ₹5, children below 12: ₹2, foreigners: ₹100.
- 19 Anand Bhawan Museum (Swaraj Bhawan), Moti Lal Neharu Marg, jlnmfald@dataone.in. Tu-Su 09:30-13:00 & 13:30-17:00; closed gazetted holidays. Learn about the intricacies of Indian struggle for freedom during the early 20th century. Among many things, you will find the personal correspondence and family photographs of the Nehrus. Besides Anand Bhawan is Swaraj Bhawan, ancestral place of the Nehru clan. It offers a best way to know about Nehru family via its video shows which are scheduled hourly. Anand Bhawan and Swaraj Bhawan are the places which have served as the parliament in real sense during British era. Many important decisions and happenings have been witnessed by these monuments. Picture gallery of national movement, painting textile books parquetry. Library. Indian citizens ₹5 (for first floor only), foreigners ₹200.
- 20 Anatomy Museum, M.L.N. medical College. July 1 to April 30: 09:00 to 16:00, May 1 to June 30: 08:00 to 12:00, closed university holiday. Dissected parts of the human body, models of human organs embryology models to study various branches of anatomy.
- Ganganath Jha Kendriya Sanskrit Vidyapeetha, C.S. Azad Park, ☏ +91 532 2460957, +91 532 2504081, +91 532 2506892. M-F 9:30AM–6:00PM; closed gazetted holidays. Mainly Sanskrit manuscripts about 50,000; along with in Telugu, Bangali, Maithili and Odia.
- Hindi Sangrahalaya, Hindi Sahitya Saammelan. Summer: 6:30AM–11:30AM; Winter: 11AM–5PM; closed S and major holidays. Books, periodicals, manuscripts, coins, letters, photographs, memoir trophies and personal belongings of literary personalities.
Temples
- 21 Bharadwaj Ashram. The hermitage of Saint Bharadwaj, as per Ramayana. There is a temple of Lord Prayagraj, the God of the Prayag city.
- 22 Bade Hanuman Ji Temple, Daraganj (Near the Sangam). Here lies a magnificent statue of Lord Hanuman which is believed to be of Ramayana era.
- 23 Dashaswamedh Gath (on the bank of Ganges in Daraganj). According to Hindu mythology this was the spot where Lord Bramha performed Parikshit Yajna and city got its name Prayag
- Jhusi-Tallest Hanuman Mandir. The temple is an unusually tall Hanuman deity along with 108 Shivalingas.
- Mankameshwar Mandir. The temple is at the bank of Yamuna river near Triveni Sangam. You can't miss it as it has flashy neon animations at its entrance.
- Shankar Viman Mandapam. Built in South Indian style, the temple offers a great view of Sangam and surrounding areas.
Churches
- 24 All Saints Cathedral (Anglican Cathedral). All Saints' Cathedral, designed by William Emerson (later President of the Royal Institute of British Architects) in complete Gothic style, was commenced in the year 1877. Standing in a grass compound at a major junction, it is in white stone with red sandstone dressings. The pavement to the choir and sanctuary is constructed pure Jaipur marble. Also known as Patthar Girja among local people, it is one of the oldest churches of India.
- 25 St. Joseph's Cathedral (Cathedral of Roman Catholic Diocese) (Located in the compound of St. Joshep College, opposite Comany Bagh). The church dates back to 1879 and follows Italian architecture. The bell tower of the church follows a Dominican style. The patron saint of the church is Francis of Assisi. The church has a number of beautiful marble statues brought from Italy. The complex also houses St. Joseph College (1881) and St. Mary's Convent (1866) both of which are housed in imposing buildings.
Do
- Boating and bathing at Sangam. A dip in the holy Sangam of the Ganga, Yamuna and the mythical Saraswati is a must for the spiritually inclined. It is a sacred holy site for Hindus. According to Vedic literature and myths it is called Triveni Sangam because three rivers meet up here namely the holy Ganga, Yamuna and mythical Saraswati which is believed to be flowing beneath the surface. At the time of churning of sea (samudra manthana) by Gods (Devas) and the Demons (Asuras) few drops of amrita (holy nectar that makes a mortal immortal) fell at four different parts of the subcontinent during a fight between Gods and Demons over it. That places are Haridwar, Nashik, Prayag and Ujjain and are considered holy and Maha Kumbh Mela is organised once in 12 years. Millions of pilgrims, tourists, ascetics, sadhu/sant (holy men) visit Prayag at the time of month long Kumbha for taking holy dip at sangam and perform religious rituals and ceremonies. Also Magh Mela is organised annually on January–February (Magh month of the Hindu calendar) and millions visit to take holy dip at Sangam.
- Take a dip at Sangam. Spiritual and refreshing. Sitting along the river banks and seeing the flowing water is also worth to be done. However sitting alone in aloof areas is risky for women and foreigners. Nagvasuki Ghat and Saraswati Ghat are suitable places for enjoying the serenity of river. Go at sunrise or after sunset to avoid crowds during Magh Mela.
- Walk in the Magh/Kumbh Mela area. The days which are best to visit Prayagraj falls in the Hindu month of 'Magha'. A stroll in the make shift streets of Mela area is blissfully energizing. Be sure to keep a close watch on your purse/day-pack, not flash any cash or wear expensive jewellery to avoid being a target for theft.
- Water sports in Yamuna. Various water sports can be enjoyed in the waters of Yamuna. Skiing, para-sailing, kayaking, canoeing, wind surfing enterprise, yachting boat, optimist sailing, water snookering, shallow water diving. Allahabad Boat Club is the organiser.
- 1 Jawahar Planetarium. 11:00-16:30. A place for those who are interested in astronomy. Shows are at every hour and charges are nominal. Children under age of 7 are not allowed.(Closed on Mondays). ₹20.
Festivals
Dussehra
Dussehra is an auspicious time to visit the colorful city. In every corner of the city famous 'Ramleela' is organized with zeal and enthusiasm. Every class of society participates in the festival. Ramleela of Pattharchatti and Pajawa are worthy of seeing. Famous 'Kali dance' is organized in Daraganj in late nights of 4th, 5th and 6th days of Navratri. People horde in large numbers in narrow streets of Daraganj to see the dance.
During these days, Durga Puja is also celebrated by Bengali community which makes a major section of Prayagraj society. Puja pandals of Darbhanga colony and Jagat Taran College are the best places to enjoy the marvelous works of craftsmen of the city.
Kumbh Mela
Kumbh Mela is the best time to immerse yourself in Hindu rituals and culture, organized once in every 12 years. 2001 Kumbh Mela became the largest ever human gathering in history when 80-90 million pilgrims converged.
Kumbh Mela is the biggest festival for Hindus, the date are written in the ancient holy Vedas. The festivals of Makar Sankranti, Mauni Amavasya and Basant Panchami are the most auspicious days when 'Shahi Snaana' are held. The dates are set according to the complex Hindu calendar and change every year.
Every year, a smaller version of Kumbh called Magh Mela is organised which falls during the Hindu month of Magha (Usually January or February). Magh Mela is an auspicious time to get married and Prayagraj will be bustling with marriage processions long into the night during this period.
The Kumbh area is a massive temporary settlement of tents at up on the flood plains of the Ganga and Yamuna rivers. It is better to book the camps or hotels in advance as the number of visitors are unbelievably high and most regular accommodation sells out. Many Hindu families spend an entire month in rented tents, or in government tent camps where bunks can be booked for as little as 200IRP per night.
Getting around the camp: The camp area was 40km long in 2019 and vehicles are generally banned (gurus and tourists on motorcycles are sometimes permitted). Ensure you know which sector your camp is in and arrive on the right edge or you could be forced to walk more than 10km. There is generally no English signage, so asking police for directions may be your best option. Temporary bridges across the river are generally one way, and the direction changes seemingly at random as police try to control the crowds.
For safety advice, see #Safety at Kumbh below.
Bhagwan Shri Dwadsh Madhav Yearly Parikrama
The parikrama of Bhagwam Shri Dwadash Madhav is the holiest and oldest parikrama on earth. Bhagwan Shri Madhav ji is the chief deity of Prayagraj, known as Tirthraj (king of holy places). In parikrama, the devotee walks around the deity. As per Bhardwaj muni, sins of this birth and previous births are dissolved by performing this holy parikrama. The punya (good karma) rises by this. This parikrama is able to fulfill all desires of devotee. This parikrama was restarted in 2014, after a long gap of 600 years. This parikrama is of about 100 km. A yearly parikrama is usually organised in November.
Learn
- Astrology. Being a seat of leaning, Prayag is a hub of famous astrologists and Sanskrit Vidyapeeths (Institutes). Get your kundli evaluated and your problem solved by Indian astrology. Approach a 'jyotishi' if you have faith in soft sciences.
- 2 Kriyayoga Ashram and Research Institute, Near Shastri Bridge, Jhunsi, ☏ +91 532 256 9243, KriyayogaAllahabad@hotmail.com.
Buy
- Guavas are best bought in winter. The red-spotted guavas available in plenty (and at unbelievably cheap prices) are a major attraction.
- Mangoes in summer
- Namkeens at LokNath, Chowk
- Rasgulle. A type of gulaabjamun, 'rasgulle' (in vernacular language) are a speciality of Prayagraj cuisine. Some remarkable shops in city are near Madwapur Petrol Pump, in front of Kamla Nehru Hospital and Netram in Katra. Try to get the taste of rasgulla's at Dadoli Canal (Pratapgarh Rd) and at Rewa Road.
- Water from the Ganga. Small brass pots of water from the Ganga sealed with wax make a good souvenir, and are widely near Sangam.
Eat
Prayagraj can be a delight for those who are made for flavour. If you are in Prayagraj, then do not forget to enjoy the Mughalai cuisine of North India.Out of innumerable spots for having delicacies of the North Indian cuisine, a mere glimpse is here. Loknath area of the city may be your favorite spot if you are foody and comfortable with hustle and bustle of 'ilahabadi raunak'. Try chaat from the street side stalls.
Budget
Cheap eats can be found at Chowk bazaar, the historic city centre. So take a bus and get off at Jawahar Square Chowk, then amble down the Loknath Line and tackle the stalls on both sides. This street is the heart of the historic city centre as well as its stomach. The smells are unbelievable. Great eateries are reported below:
- 1 Nirala Misthan Bhandar, 60-B, Loknath, Chowk, ☏ +91 9389066601. A sweet shop selling sweets like Indian chats and snacks like dosa, chole bhature and Chinese. All prepared in pure Desi ghee.
- 2 Hari Ram & Sons, Loknath, 16, Chowk, Rani Mandi, ☏ +91 94546 99618. Salted food products all made of pure deshi ghee (Samosa, Dal Moth, Khatte Channa). This spot was the favorite of Prime Minister Lal Bahadur Shastri
- Rajaram Lassi Wala. For a refreshing glass of lassi with rabri, kulfi or burfi
In every area of the city there are options and variety for cheap foods. Below some tips:
- The best crepes from rice batter and black lentils (Masala Dosa) are sold in the stalls around Motilal Nehru Medical College 3 main gate
- Cheap 'Dhaba style' restaurants are located near the railway station. They are a good option for having a heavy Mughalai nosh-up. Try 4 Milan Da Dhaba at Leader & Station Rd (+91 80049 22576).
- Baati Chokha Near High Court
- Chaat at Bahrana Triangle
- Kachauri (spicy snacks with normal thali) at 5 Katra Rd (University gate)
- Enjoy 'Paan' - Indian mouth freshener, kiosks at every step in the city
Mid-range
- 6 Cafe Coffee Day (CCD), Shop No. 3-5, Elgin Road. Daily 11:00-23:00. The Prayagraj outlet of the Indian café chain. popularly known as CCD, A trendy hangout for teen/young people. Sandwiches, veg burgers, pastries, coffee & tea
- 7 Domino's Pizza, Ground Floor, 31A/31, Plot No. QQ1, Sardar Patel Marg, Civil Lines, ☏ +91 532 226 0752. Daily 11:00-23:00. Veg pizzas, double cheese Margherita, Mexican Green Wav, Veggie Paradise etc.
- 8 McDonald's, M G Marg. Daily 10:00-23:00.
- 9 The Patio, Strachey Road, Civil Lines, ☏ +91 532 256 0123. A multi cuisine restaurant at the lobby floor of Kanha Shyam Hotel. Indian specialties are served at the second floor.
- 10 Sagar Ratna, 3/3, Hashimpur Road, Balson Crossing, Near Anand Bhawan,, ☏ +91 532 329 0523. Daily 10:00-23:00. Indian, Chinese, Continental, pizzas and pasta dishes in a simple, family-friendly restaurant.
- Mumbai Masala, Civil Lines. Good theme restaurant serving mostly Indian Food.
Splurge
- 11 El Chico, 24, M.G. Marg, Civil Lines., ☏ +91 532 2420075. A family-run restaurant established in 1964 as a small Espresso Coffee outlet. With the passage of time El Chico has graduated into a reputed multi cuisine Restaurant, from Italian to Chinese and off course Indian. The restaurant at the first floor has a better ambiance. The pastry shop beside the restaurant is also good with daily baked cookies and French/Masala/garlic bread.
- 12 Connoisseur Restaurant, 49A, Mahatma Gandhi Marg, Civil Lines, ☏ +91 94508 48669. M-Sa 09:00-20:30. Continental cuisine, tasty non-veg dishes.
- 13 Khana Khazana, 13, Sardar Patel Marg, Civil Lines, ☏ +91 532 226 0631. Daily 06:30-23:00. On the Grand Continental lobby floor, the restaurant serves various cuisines such as Indian, South Indian, Tandoor, Continental and Chinese. Khana means food, Khazana means Treasury.
Drink
Pubs are very few. Glassy Junction at hotel Milan Palace, Civil Lines, is a good one to hang around on weekends. Another place that comes closest to being a pub is on the top floor of the Kanha Shyam hotel in Civil Lines. Some restaurants, like Hasty Tasty restaurant, Hotel Regency, and the Tourist Bungalow, all situated in Civil Lines, offer chilled beer and liquor. However, most other restaurants do not have liquor on their menu. Drinking in public is frowned upon, drinking in family restaurants is not allowed at all.
Sleep
Prayagraj is the host of the largest gathering in the world and rich in hotels in almost every part of the city.Details of a few of them are here.
Budget
Various dharmshalas are available at negligible charges in old city. Daraganj and Kydganj have plenty of Dharmshalas which are freely available.
- 1 Hotel Kanha Shyam (Civil Lines), Strachey Road, ☏ +91 532 256 0123. Check-in: 12:00, check-out: 12:00.
- 2 Royal Hotel, Nawab Yusuf Rd (near Allahabad junction Train Junction), ☏ +91 532 2427201, royalhotel.666@rediffmail.com. Check-out: 12:00. Used to be a royal stable but was converted into a hotel. Basic rooms are spacious with bathrooms, hot water, it's a bucket and scoop job. All in all, a lovely old building. ₹200-700.
Mid-range
- 3 Hotel Kohinoor, 10, Nurulla Road,, ☏ +91 532-2655501, +91 93071 44330. Garden, veg, non veg restaurant, 24 hour security staff & video surveillance in hallways.
- 4 Hotel Yatrik, 33 Sardar Patel Marg, ☏ +91 532 226 0921.
- 5 Valentines Hotel, 7/3/2B, Civil Lines, ☏ +91 532 256 0030. All rooms are AC with double bed. 24 hours internet. Open air restaurant.
Splurge
- 6 Clarks Inn Ajay International, A/2/D, Lal Bahadur Shastri Marg, Civil Lines, Opposite GPO, ☏ +91 93367 62824.
- 7 Hotel Allahabad Regency, Tashkent Marg, ☏ +91 532-2407835, mails@hotelallahabadregency.com.
- 8 Hotel Grand Continental, 13, Sardar Patel Marg & Strachey Road, Civil Lines, ☏ +91 532 226 0631.
- 9 Hotel Milan Palace, 4/2, Strachy Road Civil Lines, ☏ +91 532 2421 505, toll-free: +91 5032 242109, info@hotelmilanpalace.com.
- 10 Hotel Polo Max, Civil Lines. This modern hotel is the only one in Prayagraj run by a national chain. ₹1800-2500.
- 11 Hotel Samrat, 49A, MG Marg, Civil Lines, ☏ +91 532 256 1200.
Stay safe
- Power outages are frequent so be prepared and carry a flashlight. Alleys are hard to navigate during the day, and even harder at night, so always be prepared. Sometimes you might run into a cow in an alley.
- Women should dress conservatively and be very careful as sexual assaults, such as random gropings, can be common. Don't travel alone, especially in less populated areas.
Safety at Kumbh
Deadly stampedes during Kumbh are commonplace: the enormous crowds frequently panic and defy police. Be aware of your surroundings, especially around the train station, bridges and rivers' edge.
Basic sanitation is lacking in many areas. Pilgrims not using toilets, flooding, and lack of drainage make diarrhea outbreaks common. Drink and use only bottled water and bring anti-diarrhea medication.
Alcohol is strictly forbidden, as are glass bottles and glasses.
Cope
- Knowing some basic Hindi and/or Urdu will help, although you can manage with English.
- Be prepared to haggle with cyclerickshaw pullers (the best means of transport), for a short trip the price should be about ₹50, autorickshaws slightly less.
Go next
- Agra there is an overnight sleeper from Prayagraj but it leaves at 11:15 at night and takes approx. 7 hours.
- Chandauli - Chandra Prabha Wildlife Sanctuary (Chandraprabha)
- Chitrakoot
- Lucknow
- Mirzapur - Vindham Falls
- Nandan Kanan amusement park - Water park with pools and slides
- Pratapgarh - Belha Devi Temple and multiple temples located in city of Pratapgarh
- Rishabdev Tapasthali - Beautiful Jain Temples in Jusi, about 15 km from Prayagraj on the road toward Varanasi. The place has arrangements for stay and food. (Call +91-532-2567067, +91-9956260218)
- Satna by train - and bus to Khajuraho
- Tones river
- Varanasi
- Jaunpur (100 km): Meideval town with a fort along with several mosques and tombs
| Routes through Prayagraj |
| Delhi ← Agra ← | W  E |
→ Varanasi → Kolkata |
| Lucknow ← | W  E |
→ Raipur |
| Kabrai ← | W  E |
→ Varanasi |
| END ← | W  E |
→ Faizabad |