Portree
Portree (Gaelic: Port Rìgh) is the main village on the Isle of Skye in the Scottish Inner Hebrides. With a population of 2300 in 2022, it's the obvious base for exploring the island. The name means "King's Port", probably a reference to James V. It's not a ferry port but in bygone years was a significant port for emigration, for trade when the roads were just muddy tracks, and for naval patrols against the king's foes - in 1746 Bonnie Prince Charlie snuck through town under their noses.
1 Visit Scotland iCentre (☏ +44 1478 612992) is the tourist office, on Bayfield Road IV51 9EL, open Apr-Sep M-Sa 9:30AM-5PM, Oct-Mar M-Sa 10AM-4PM.
Get in
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By bus: Citylink Bus 914 / 915 runs 2-3 times a day from Glasgow Buchanan Station, taking 8 hours via Glasgow Airport, Dumbarton, Loch Lomond west bank, Crianlarich, Glencoe, Fort William, Invergarry and Kyle of Lochalsh, then over the Skye Bridge to Broadford, Sligachan and Portree. Most buses continue to Uig ferry terminal.
Bus 917 runs twice a day from Inverness via Loch Ness and the Skye Bridge, then via Broadford and Sligachan to Portree; 3 hr 30 min.
Stagecoach Highlands Bus 52 runs three times a day from the ferry pier at Armadale via Broadford to Portree, 75 min.
Bus 56 runs 3-4 times M-Sa from Portree via Skeabost and Edinbane to Dunvegan (50 min) and Lonmore, with a couple continuing west to Colbost and Glendale.
Bus 57 circles the Trotternish peninsula. Bus 57C is clockwise, Portree > Uig > Flodigarry > Staffin > Portree and 57A is anti-clockwise the reverse route. It runs every 2-3 hours M-F plus Sa Apr-Oct and Su May-Sep
1 Somerled Square is the bus stand. No facilities beyond a draughty perspex shelter, but it's surrounded by pubs and eating places.
By car follow the main road A87 across the toll-free Skye Bridge and continue northwest.
Get around
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Almost everything in town is within 5 minutes walk. You might want to take a bus to the Co-op supermarket on the edge of town.
Taxi firms are Gus's (☏ +44 1478 613000), Don's (☏ +44 1478 613100), BW's (☏ +44 1478 612865), Portree Taxi Tours (☏ +44 7384 284373), Lynx (☏ +44 1478 611909) and Portree Taxi (☏ +44 1478 612444). Any of these can do island tours.
Bikes on the Brae hires bikes including mountain and e-bikes, and has a coffee shop. They're open Tu-Sa 10AM-4PM.
Car rental is available from Morrisons (☏ +44 1478 612688).
See
[edit]- 1 The Harbour has colourful houses and shingle beach, with attractive hills sheltering the bay from the ocean gales.
- 2 The Lump is the headland just south of town; events are often held here. The Apothecary Tower is a folly of 1830, wrecked by a storm of 1978 but rebuilt, and you can ascend the interior steps for fine views. The hills seen east across the channel are the island of Raasay; until the 20th century you could only get from one end of that island to the other by ferry to Skye and out again.
- 3 Bride's Veil Falls are a cascade on the road between Lochs Fada and Leathan. By this point the Old Man of Storr should be in view, unless the clouds are right down and you're not destined to see him today.
- 4 The Storr is the contorted landscape created 10,000 years ago when its ice straitjacket melted and there was a 20-mile long landslide along the east coast of Trotternish. This exposed the rugged peak of The Storr (719 m, 2359 ft), with the distinct 50-m pinnacle of The Old Man of Storr. The Old Man can be seen from the road, an anti-clockwise circuit gives the best views. Or hike up for a closer look: Walkhighlands suggest a 3-mile, 3-hour return hike. Signage at the car park indicates a two hour hike, but this is over-optimistic.
- See Uig for points further north in Trotternish, such as Kilt Rock, the Quiraing, and Museum of Island Life.
Do
[edit]- What's on? See Skye Events for ceilidhs and live music, at various venues.
- Isle of Skye Pipe Band parade on summer evenings, usually on Thursdays at 7PM around Somerled Square.
- 1 Las, Viewfield Road IV51 9EU, ☏ +44 1478 613649. Cinema, theatre and concert venue.
- Look up your ancestors: Skye and Lochalsh Archive Centre has records back to the 17th century. The bulk are 19th century, when many emigrated especially in the famine years. The Centre is within the Hostel on Dunvegan Rd, open M Tu Th 10AM-1PM, 2-5PM.
- Boat trips from Portree harbour are run by Stardust and Spindrift. Wildlife spotting, fishing, and some trips land at Applecross or Rona.
- Shinty: Skye Camanachd play in the MOWI Premiership, the top tier. The playing season is April-Oct.
- Golf: see Sconser for Isle of Skye Golf Course.
- Skye Live is a music festival held on The Lump, with the next probably on 8-10 May 2025, tbc.
- Skye Highland Games are held on The Lump in August, with the next on W 7 Aug 2024.
- Skye Agricultural Show is on the first Saturday of August on King George V playing fields on Park Road, with the next on Sa 3 Aug 2024.
Buy
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- Gulf filling station at the south edge of Portree has fuel for only a few pence more than mainland supermarket prices. It's open 24 hours.
- 1 Co-op Food, Woodpark Road IV51 9HQ, ☏ +44 1478 612483. Daily 7AM-10PM. Large supermarket on the edge of town. Wide range of food, including excellent organic, fairtrade and ethically sourced produce.
- Co-op convenience store, Bank Street IV51 9DA. Daily 7AM-11PM. Smaller but more central than the main Co-op.
- Over the Rainbow, Quay Brae IV51 9DB (town centre, by Co-op), ☏ +44 1478 612361. M-Sa 9AM-5PM. Gift and craft shop.
- MacKenzie's Bakery, Somerled Square IV51 9EH (by bus stand), ☏ +44 1470 373155. M-F 8AM-3:30PM. Bakery selling pies and cakes made locally.
Eat
[edit]- Eating places, like accommodation, get booked solid in summer, and you may even face a long queue for takeaway fish & chips.
- Somerled Square the bus stop has The Granary, Caledonian Cafe and Cuchullin restaurant.
- The Quay has The Chippy, Cafe Arriba (below), Restaurant Rosedale, The Lower Deck (below) and Harbour Fish & Chips.
- Café Arriba, Quay Brae IV51 9DB, ☏ +44 1478 611830. Th-Tu 8AM-4PM. Brightly decorated harbourside cafe with Med-style snacks and meals, coffee and vegetarian choices. Dog-friendly.
- The Lower Deck, 1 Douglas Row IV51 9DD, ☏ +44 1478 613611. Sa-Th noon-3PM, 5-9PM. Simple, fresh seafood dishes. Get there early, it's always full, and bring a sweater in case you're seated by the door.
- Dulse and Brose is within Bosville Hotel, open daily noon-2PM and 6-8:45PM.
- An Talla Mòr 1820 on Bank St serves pub grub, open daily 11AM-1AM.
- Taste of India, Armadale House, Bank St IV51 9DA (by the harbour), ☏ +44 1478 611706. Daily April-Oct noon-2PM, 5-11PM, Nov-Mar 5-11PM. Mostly good reviews for its trad Indian fare, halal available.
- Prince of India on Bayfield Road gets poor reviews. It's open daily noon-11:30PM, cash only.
- Scorrybreac, 7 Bosville Terrace IV51 9DG, ☏ +44 1478 612069. W-Sa noon-3PM, 5-10PM, Su noon-10PM. Fine dining with fresh local produce.
Drink
[edit]- Bars include Pier Hotel on Quay Street, Merchant Bar within Bosville Hotel, and Caberfeidh Bar and The Isles Inn on Somerled Square.
- Distillery: Isle of Skye Distillers make gin and vodka in Portree. No tours, their shop is on Rathad na Slignich.
Sleep
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- There are over 50 B&Bs in Portree, which routinely sell out in summer, and the best are full up any time of year. You need to book early.
- 1 Portree Campsite, Staffin Rd, Torvaig IV51 9HU, ☏ +44 7359 328368. Clean spacious site open March-Oct a mile north of town, great views towards Raasay. Hook-up £35, tent £16.
- 2 Portree Youth Hostel, Lisigarry Court, Portree IV51 9EW, ☏ +44 1478 612231. Small hostel run by Hostelling Scotland near Portree's main square, with male and female dorms both of 8 beds. Clean, efficient, with modern kitchen and dining area. Bunk £30 ppn, double rooms £140, breakfast £6.
- Portree Independent Hostel, Old Post Office, The Green IV51 9BT (off main square), ☏ +44 1478 613737. Very central, with spacious kitchen and common room. But rooms are small with no storage lockers, and frankly the place is dirty. The laundromat is open to non-residents.
- Tongadale Hotel is a simple place on Wentworth St by main square, noisy from the pub below, B&B double £130.
- Bosville Hotel, 13 Bosville Terrace, Portree IV51 9LX (by harbour), ☏ +44 1478 612846. Pleasant welcoming small hotel in converted 19th century cottages. B&B double £200.
- 3 Marmalade Hotel, Home Farm Rd, Portree IV51 9LX, ☏ +44 1478 611711. Georgian mansion with contemporary decor. Pleasant but overpriced. B&B double £400.
- 4 Viewfield House, Portree IV51 9EU, ☏ +44 1478 612217, info@viewfieldhouse.com. Georgian mansion, now an atmospheric upscale country-house hotel open April to mid-Oct. It's nowadays primarily a B&B and only offers basic evening dining. B&B double £200.
- 5 Glenview, Culnacnoc IV51 9JH (16 miles north of Portree), ☏ +44 1470 562248. Great reviews for this cosy B&B near Old Man of Storr. Open all year, with a knitwear business and yoga. B&B double £140.
Connect
[edit]As of June 2024, Portree and its approach road A87 have a basic mobile signal from Three, 4G from O2 and Vodafone, and 5G from EE.
Go next
[edit]- Portree is so central that you'll probably explore the whole island while based here, but you could relocate to Broadford or Armadale to see Sleat.
- Raasay is usually done as a day-trip via Sconser. Stay longer if you want to unwind.
- Uig is the ferry port for North Uist and Harris.
| Routes through Portree |
| Uig ← | W  S |
→ Broadford → Kyle of Lochalsh |