Sarajevo, the capital of Bosnia and Herzegovina, is a lively city of 430,000 people (urban area), nestled in a valley, mainly within the Federation of Bosnia and Herzegovina, but with parts in the Republika Srpska. Sarajevo is very tourist friendly, especially in the Old Town in the center of the city.
Sarajevo is one of the most historically interesting and varied cities in Europe. It is a place where the Western & Eastern Roman Empire split; where the people of the Roman Catholic west, Eastern Orthodox east and the Ottoman south, met, lived and warred. It has been both an example of historical turbulence and the clash of civilizations, as well as a beacon of hope for peace and tolerance through multi-cultural integration. The city is historically famous for its traditional religious diversity, with adherents of Islam, Orthodoxy, Catholicism and Judaism coexisting there for centuries.
Some important historical events in Sarajevo are the 1914 assassination of Austrian Archduke Franz Ferdinand, which led up to World War I, as well as the 1984 Winter Olympics.
Today, the city has physically recovered from most of the damage caused by the Yugoslav Wars of 1992-1995. Sarajevo is a cosmopolitan European capital with a unique Eastern twist that is a delight to visit. The people are very friendly, be they Bosniaks, Croats, Serb or other. There is relatively little crime, and the city ranks as one of the safest in South Eastern Europe.
The city of Sarajevo stretches west-east along the river Miljacka; the main arterial road and tram routes tend to follow the west-east orientation. It is set in a narrow valley, surrounded by mountains on three sides.
Most tourists spend a lot of time in Old Town (Stari Grad). The eastern half of Old Town consists of the Ottoman-influenced Bascarsija (BAHS CHAR she ya), while the western half showcases an architecture and culture that arrived with Austria-Hungary, symbolically representing the city as a meeting place between East and West.
If you are not staying at a hotel (i.e. a private residence), you officially should register with the local police within 24 hours of arrival. Failure to register may result in a fine or possible removal, but most likely won't bother anyone.
- 1 Sarajevo Airport (Medjunarodni Aerodrom Sarajevo), Kurta Schorka 36, Sarajevo 71210. (IATA: SJJ) is located 6.1km southwest of the railway station, in the suburb of Butmir.
The following airlines operate service to/from Sarajevo Airport: National Carrier B&H Airlines [dead link] has the largest network (Amsterdam, Copenhagen, Gothenburg-Landvetter, Istanbul-Atatürk, Zürich), Adria Airways (Ljubljana), Austrian Airlines (Vienna), Croatia Airlines (Zagreb), Germanwings (Cologne/Bonn, Stuttgart, Berlin), Jat Airways (Belgrade), Lufthansa (Munich), Norwegian (Oslo-Rygge, Stockholm-Arlanda seasonal), and Pegasus (Istanbul-Sabiha Gocken, only certain days of the week), Turkish Airlines (Istanbul-Atatürk).
According to the airport information desk, there are no buses between the airport and the city anymore. However, you can walk 600m to Dobrinja and take a trolley bus from there. Taxi fares to/from the airport are surprisingly expensive for the short distance. Taxi drivers use fake price lists for tourists. The real taxi price to the city is 16 BAM. You can also walk 600m to Dobrinja and take a metered taxi from there (approx. 13 BAM).
- 2 Railway Station Sarajevo (Nova željeznička stanica), Put života 2, Sarajevo 71000. There is information, ticket office, toilette and some bars inside.
The only international train to Bosnia operates from Zagreb. The journey is quite picturesque, and the journey time is comparable to the bus. There is one daily train between Sarajevo and Zagreb in each direction. Tickets cost 59 BAM one-way, 95 BAM return. Trains are not air-conditioned, and the toilets aren't great, but otherwise the train is comfortable. Journey times are about 9 hours, but subject to lengthy delays for passport control on both sides of the border with Croatia. A train leaves Zagreb daily at 09:18AM arriving in Sarajevo at 06:18PM. The return train to Zagreb via Zenica, Doboj and Banja Luka departs Sarajevo at 10:43AM and arrives in Zagreb at 07:49PM. Schedule is available here. The train does NOT have a dining car on board, or any other food provision. Be advised to bring supplies beforehand.
There is no longer train connection from Ploče.
There are two trains from Čapljina to Sarajevo via Mostar (07:06AM and 07:19PM). There are also two trains daily from Sarajevo to Čapljina via Mostar (07:15AM and 06:57PM). Journey takes 2,5 hours and costs 11 BAM.
Roads in Bosnia are often only a single lane in either direction, and due to the mountainous topography tend to be very windy and speed limits are lower (mostly 80 km/h). Beware of trucks and people dangerously overtaking on any road. There are many tunnels, and you must always drive with your lights ON (day or night). However, in recent years significant modernisation has taken place.
By private car or minibus
- GEA Tours, Kneza Milosa 65, Belgrade, ☎ , e-mail: , , , , email@example.com. Connections by mini-van or private cars between Sarajevo and Belgrade. It is essential to contact them by phone or email prior to departure. Journey takes about 5 hours and a half to 6 hours. 20 EUR (one-way), 35 EUR (return).
- P-AIR Magyarország Kft., 1037 Budapest, Csillaghegyi út 19-21., ☎ , e-mail: firstname.lastname@example.org. Provides shuttle bus between Tuzla Airport (which is a Wizzair hub) and Sarajevo. Journey takes 2 hours. Reservation must be made before departure. 18 EUR (one-way), 36 EUR (return), 1 EUR (administration fee).
There are two bus stations in Sarajevo. On all intercity buses you pay a fee for luggage. This fee of 1 BAM or 1 EUR per piece of luggage is paid to the driver upon boarding. Some drivers are rather picky about being paid in exact change in the correct currency (sometimes a local currency, at other instances requesting to be paid in Euros) and sometimes also refuse to be paid in too small coins. So keep some change ready.
- 3 Main bus station (Autobuska stanica Sarajevo), Put života 8, Sarajevo 71000. This station is located right next to the train station, at the end of number 1 tram line that takes you to the Old Town (1.60 BAM).
This bus station serves both domestic and international destinations. It is advisable to buy international tickets in advance since these routes fill up quickly. International tickets can be bought online, at the station, or from the Eurolines office near the cathedral between the old bazaar. Information on bus routes can also be obtained from the tourist information offices.
There are several buses a day to/from Mostar which also stop at Konjic and Jablanica along the way. These leave at 06:00, 07:00, 07:35, 08:00, 08:15, 09:00, 09:30, 10:30, 11:30, 12:30, 14:30, 15:30 and up to 18:00, and journey time is approximately two and a half hours. Single tickets cost 13.50KM, return tickets are 19KM. There are also buses to Split (7-8 hours) and a daily bus to Dubrovnik which leaves at 07:00 and costs 40-160KN.
There are several buses a day from the main bus station to Banja Luka. These leave at 05:00, 07:55, 09:15, 14:30, 15:30 and 16:30. Journey time is approximately 5 hours.
There is a daily bus to Graz and Vienna, leaving from the main bus station at 08:00, reaching Graz at 19:45 and Vienna around 2 hours later. A one-way ticket costs €44. You will have to pay the driver 2 KM to transport luggage. There are frequent stops on the way, including for food and toilets. Do not rely on these "food stops" as they are basically just shops to buy coffee and you will need local currency to buy anything.
Buses to Tuzla leave from the main bus station approximately every hour every day. The journey takes approximately 3 hours, and costs around 11 KM.
There is a bus every day from Pristina in Kosovo at 18:30 from the main bus station. The bus is listed on the station schedule as travelling to Novi Pazar, Serbia. From there it travels on to Sarajevo. You can buy the ticket to Novi Pazar at the bus station, or from the controller on board the bus for the whole journey. You might have to change buses in Novi Pazar (which is surprisingly hassle-free). The price from Pristina to Novi Pazar is €7, from Novi Pazar to Sarajevo is €15, and payment is possible in Euros or Serbian dinars. The bus arrives in Novi Pazar around midnight, and Sarajevo around 06:00. Make sure you have the proper travel document to enter Serbia (see Kosovo Get in section) as the controller will not issue you tickets without seeing them first! Another possibility is to book a bus to Podgorica in Montenegro, and then travel from there to Pristina.
There is one bus per day from the main station to Belgrade, at 06:00, costing 40KM.
- 4 East bus station (Autobuska stanica Istočno Sarajevo 'Lukavica'), Akademika Petra Mandića, Sarajevo. There is also another bus station in Eastern (Serb-dominated) Sarajevo on the outskirts of the city serving the Republika Srpska and destinations in both Serbia and Montenegro. GPS location 43.823681, 18.356529)
To get here, it is probably easiest to book/order a taxi (around 15KM). If using public transport, take 103 or 107 bus/trolleybus, or the 31E, all from Trg Austria and exit at the last station, and ask people how to get to Lukavica bus station (buses and trolleybuses to the city centre depart from a terminal around 200m from where the international buses arrive). Arriving at Istočno Sarajevo Bus Station, continue on the main road, having the bus station on your right - you will see the Dobrinja trolleybus stop to your right. Buy ticktes at the booth. If you need Bosnian currency there is a Visa/Mastercard cash machine (bankomat) in the nearby Tom shopping centre. To get there walk into the opposite direction of the trolleybus stop, having the bus station to your left. The shopping centre is at the next big traffic light. There are 2 cash machines (Unicredit and NLB) outside and you'll find a supermarket inside.
Note that the Lukavica 'Eastern' station is actually to the West of the 'main' bus station, and is basically to the west of most of Sarajevo's suburbs.
The bus ride from Lukavica bus station to Podgorica (35KM) in and Budva (40KM) Montenegro takes 7 hours (35KM) but is an absolutely amazing ride through some wonderful countryside on the route Lukavica-Trnovo-Rataj-Foca-Brod-Hum-Goransko-Niksic-Danilovgrad-Podgorica (sit on the right side of the bus for the best views). Buses leave at 08:15, 09:00, 14:00 and 22:30. Payment in Euro is accepted.
Bus departure times for Lukavica - Belgrade are: 08:00, 09:45, 12:30, 15:00 and 22:00 daily. One way ticket cost 40KM.
From Mostar, hitching a ride through the beautiful mountains up the M-17 road to Sarajevo is quite easy. Make sure you have a sign though and a Bosnian/Croatian/Serbian language phrasebook would be useful. If you have trouble getting out of Mostar, change the sign to Jablanica where traffic will branch of NW to Banja Luka and then hitch on to Sarajevo from Jablanica. Sarajevo is a long thin city so try to get a lift into the centre. If not, get one at least to the tram tracks that go there from the west of the city limits.
Sarajevo is a small, beautiful city with many landmarks. Getting lost is next to impossible if you have a map (although getting lost in Bascarsija's winding streets can also be part of the fun!) Very good and free maps can be obtained from the tourist information office, shopping centers, and hotels. A map app on your smartphone is fine too.
Asking Sarajevans for directions is an exercise in futility. People don't know the names of streets a block from the building they've lived in all their lives. However, they won't tell you this, and as a rule will point you in some direction, usually not the right direction. Taxi drivers can't be expected to find anything but the most obvious addresses unless you tell them where to go, in Bosnian—showing the driver on your map will come in handy.
In Sarajevo, street signs are few and far between, and small and on the sides of buildings too far away to see when you're standing on a street corner. Building numbers are more or less consecutive but don't follow the "hundreds" styles of the United States, e.g., 23 Bjestiva street may be blocks from 27 Bjestiva street.
By public transport
GRAS operates public transportation in Sarajevo.
The center of Sarajevo is served by a spinal tram network which makes a counter clockwise loop around the central district. This tram network opened in the mid-1870s and was the first in the Austro-Hungarian Empire. Tickets should be purchased in advance from kiosks labeled tisak on the street or from the driver, where they cost slightly more (around 1.80KM). Tickets should be validated upon boarding the vehicle and are valid for a one way trip only. Changing tram or bus means validating a new ticket. A day card valid for unlimited travel on all local public transport in Zone A is available for about 5KM. Please note that inspectors board public transport very frequently: if you can't reach the validator machine because the tram is too crowded, then don't board the tram.
Be careful taking taxis from the main train or bus station and the airport. Firstly, drivers are known to charge far more to tourists who have just arrived and do not know the area, so you can easily end up paying at least double the (usually very affordable) normal price. It is advisable to get an idea of the maximum cost of a taxi before you arrive (ask your hostel/hotel) and negotiating the price with the driver in advance. Should there be a problem when you arrive at your destination and the driver suddenly speaks less English, ask at your accommodation for help - they will be used to dealing with this scam. Secondly, the other well-known "taxi scam" operates in Sarajevo, where the unsuspecting tourist will be taken to a more expensive hotel than the one he or she has asked to be taken to, and the driver and receptionist will swear that the new arrival is in fact in the right place. Have a picture of where you are staying ready, or at least be familiar with its appearance. Many accommodation options will offer a pickup from wherever you arrive, and this is usually free or at a very minimal cost.
If you still would like to order a taxi, try 033 663 555.
There are several free walking tours that that give visitors the chance to see the city from a local's perspective.
- 1 Bascarsija (the eastern half of the Old Town, spreading eastward from the street Gazi Husrev-begova). The cobbled streets, mosques and Oriental style shops at the heart the city are a world away from Europe, and when the call-to-prayer starts, one could be forgiven for thinking that they were actually in the Middle East. You could actually be walking by a Catholic church, Orthodox church and a Synagogue and hear the Islamic call to prayer at the same time. In this old bazaar you can find dozens of shops selling handmade copperware, woodwork, and sweets.
- 2 Sebilj (Fountain), Bascarsija (a few steps south of the "Bascarsija" tram stop). A wooden fountain in the middle of an open square.
- 3 Morica Han (Morica Inn), Saraci, Bascarsija. The only preserved Ottoman Inn in Sarajevo. The first floor used to contain 43 rooms for travellers, mostly traders, houses nowadays a carpet shop and a traditional restaurant with engravings of Rubaiyat of Umer Khayam, the famous 12th century Persian poet.
- 4 Latin Bridge. This bridge was the location of the 28 June 1914 assassination of Archduke of the Austrian Hungarian empire Franz Ferdinand, the event that sparked the beginning of World War I. A plaque commemorates the event. On the Bridge itself was a memorial to the assassin Gavrilo Princip, but this was removed during the 1992-1995 War.
- 5 Views from Surrounding Hills. Sarajevo's surrounding hills offer fantastic views over the city, but some landmines from the war still exist on some of them. To be safe, stick to paved roads and sidewalks and do not walk into fields, grass, or wooded areas. Also be alert for stray (and possibly rabid) dogs when venturing out of the city. The hills also offer a taste of suburban Bosnian life, including some of the surviving wooden mosques from before the war.
- 6 Yellow Fortress (Walk through the war cemetery at the eastern end of Bascarsija. Another way is to follow the river upstream; where the road forks, take the right fork (the left fork goes into a short tunnel); follow it past Hotel Sara and up to the fortress.). The small fortress provides a great view of the city.
- 7 White Fortress. Ruins of old fortress provides great view over the city.
- 8 Cemeteries. With white marble grave stones for those who gave their lives at their 20s during the war, these cemeteries are a reminder of the tragedy that the city went through less than two decades ago.
- 9 Markale Market Place (Gradska Tržnica) (It is a big yellow building; The main entrance is located on Ferhadija and backs onto Mula Mustafe Baseskije where there is a plaque on the wall with victims' names on it.). 07:00–17:00. Marked the start of NATO intervention and thereby end of the war after a bombing which took the life of some 40 people. Markale was bombed two times: first in Feb 1994 (which is important in terms of casualties) and second in Aug 1995 (which initiated NATO military intervention). Today the market is repaired and home to local meat, cheese, and vegetable merchants. Free.
- 10 Vrelo Bosne (25 minute drive west of Old Town, 3km beyond the suburb of Ilidža). The beginning of the river Bosna, where the pure and ice cold water surges out of the mountains. Here you can walk in large, well-kept park, picnic, and spend the whole day without getting bored. May 1 festival is held here. 2 KM park admission, 2 KM / hour parking, 30 KM for a horse-and-carriage ride.
- 11 Vijecnica (City Hall), Obala Kulina Bana. Iconic Moorish-style building on the river. Contains a very good photo exhibit of the past 100 years of Sarajevo's history, including many photos from the peaceful and wealthy times before the wars. 5 KM.
- 12 Trebevic bobsled track (You can walk here [6 kilometers from center, but very steep slope] or ask a taxi to drop you off at Hotel Pino [8 kilometers from center, pay approximately 12–15 KM] then cross the road from the hotel.). Place where bobsled competition takes place during '84 Olympic Games. Partially destroyed during war. Amazing place for people who like to see ruins. This is also great place for risk takers: you can rent a bike in city and ride down in concrete bobsled path (or hike down if you don't have a bike). Do not leave main paths: mines may still be hidden in the forest!
- 13 Former ski lift top station (Close to beginning of Trebevic bobsled track). Destroyed during war top station of former ski lift, it is currently great view point for the whole city. The prospect of rebuilding the cable car has been promised by politicians for years, but hasn't happened yet. Do not leave main paths: mines may still be hidden in the forest!
Sarajevo's museums are in disrepair, due to disputes over which arm of the government is responsible for funding them. However, they are still worth visiting.
- 14 Bosnian Historical Museum (100 m from the Holiday Inn, just past the turn off to the Central Train Station on the left). Closes Saturday and Sunday at 14:00. The moving display on the siege of Sarajevo is a must-see - if you are able to cope with the pictures of the maimed citizens after shelling of markets. Wonder at the photos of an ineffective UN providing armored vehicles citizens could wait behind before risking sniper fire to cross the street. And you will be heartbroken by the pictures drawn by children. 4 KM.
- 15 National Museum (in a large classical building across the road from the Holiday Inn, about 2 km west of the Old Town, take any tram). Closed Mondays.. Static displays of the natural and human history of Bosnia and Herzegovina - including an exhibition of traditional Turkish style homes of Sarajevo prevalent in the nineteenth century, an extensive collection of insects and stuffed mammals and a large geology section with samples from around the world and a number of meteorites. 5KM.
- 16 Sarajevo War Tunnel Museum (taxi from the centre city costs ~17 KM one way. Take the #3 tram to the end of the line from the city centre. Then get a taxi to the Tunnel Museum and walk back to the tram station if it's a nice day (takes about half an hour). Alternatively, the tourist office in the city centre and Sarajevo Funky Tours offers Tunnel tours for €12, with transportation to and from the city centre included. After seeing the tunnel, they also take you on a drive through the part of the city that is in the Republika Srpska, which you can't get to via the tram.). Open 7 days a week from 09:00-17:00. This museum houses the tunnel which was used to access the airport area during the siege and ferry supplies into the city. The tunnel itself is in the garden of a house so don't be worried if you think you're headed into suburbia. 5 KM.
- 17 Sarajevo City Museum (Brusa Bezistan), Abadžiluk 10 (in Bascarsija), ☎ . M–Sa 10:00–16:00, closed Su. Newly opened, the museum traces Sarajevo's development from pre-historical times through the Roman, Ottoman, Austro-Hungarian and modern times. This is a tiny museum but the cost of 2 BAM (year 2011) is worth it. The entire time spent in here will probably be less than half an hour. This is in the centre of the Old Town and an unknown (non-alcoholic) 'traditional drink' is included with the minor price of admission. The centrepiece of the museum is a model of the Old Town.
- 18 Svrzina kuca (Svrzo house), Glođina ulica 8 (200 m north of the old town). A beautiful old Ottoman house built in the 18th century shows how Svrzo family lived there. 3 KM.
- 19 Sarajevo Art Gallery (On the third floor of the building south of the Orthodox Cathedral (entrance is down a side street next to the municipal government building, look for the number 8 above the door)). Small but pleasing gallery. Free.
- 20 Bey's mosque (Begova dzamija) (in the center of Bascarsija). This medieval Ottoman architecture's pearl is a lovely place to visit. It is open both to Muslims and non-Muslims, but a visiting woman needs to cover her hair and wear long skirt or dress within the mosque. It is one of the biggest mosques in the region and, for many, the most beautiful one. Bey's mosque is a few hundreds years old and it is the greatest and most important project of the waqf of a Bey that is buried in the mosque's courtyard. The clocktower next to the site (across Mudželiti Veliki street) shows 12:00 at sunset, and was used to synchronize the calls to prayer for all the city's mosques.
- 21 Emperor's Mosque (Careva dzamija), Obala Isa bega ishakovica (on the south bank of the river). This is the oldest mosque in Sarajevo. There's an adjacent cemetery and café inside the walls. The mosque is open both to Muslims and non-Muslims, but a visiting woman needs to cover her hair and wear long skirt or dress within the mosque.
- 22 St. Anthony´s Church (Crkva Sv. Ante), Franjevacka. Modern Catholic church with beautiful stained glass windows
- Sarajevo Football Club (Željezničar Football Club) (Olympic Stadium). Although the football quality is low, it is interesting to follow a match in a stadium which hosted the opening ceremony of 1984 Sarajevo Winter Olympic Games peacefully just a few years before war broke out.
Sarajevo is a vibrant city that lives all year long. Sonar compiles the city's regular calendar of events to make it easier to plan your visit.
- Sarajevo Film Festival. annually in July or August. One of the best film festivals in Europe and the largest of its kind in Southeastern Europe.
- MESS - International theater festival Sarajevo. annually during October.
- Sarajevo Jazz Festival. during first week of November. A very eclectic festival, and the largest of its kind in the Balkans.
Bascarsija has plenty of carpets and local copperware on sale. Over a century ago, each street in this area hawked a specific ware: for example, one street had all the coppersmiths, shoes were on another, jewelry on yet another. While in Bascarsija, don't miss the underground souk that stretches along the west side of Gazi Husrev-begova street (open 08:00–20:00).
For other items:
- Maloprodaja, Saraci 21 in Bascarsija. There are cool t-shirts for 20KM
- Sahinpasic, 38d Titova. Has a solid collection of historical literature.
For information on typical Bosnian foods, see Bosnia#Eat.
Sarajevo has countless shops selling burek (meat pie, sold in layers by weight or by piece), ćevapi, and pizza. Pita (burek, sirnica, krompirusa, tikvenica, zeljanica etc.) is a filo type pasty pie generally offered in several varieties: meat (meso), cheese (sirnica, Bosnian cheese called "young cheese" similar to ricotta and never aged), cheese and spinach (zeljanica), pumpkin (tikvenica), and spicy potato (krompirusa). It is usually served with a traditional yogurt sauce that resembles sour cream. Most ćevapi places do not serve alcohol.
- Ago Fast Food Pizzeria, Mula Mustafe Baseskije 17. Good value pizzas, and pancakes for dessert at only 1 KM, which are a boon for the budget travellers with a sweet tooth.
- Petica, Bravadžiluk 29, in Bascarsija, ☎ . 08:00–23:00. A popular but spacious restuarant serving the freshest all-beef ćevapi and creamiest kajmak in Bascarsija. The waitresses wear traditional Bosnian dresses. 3.50 KM for ćevapi.
- Ascinica ASDž, Ćurčiluk mali 3 in Bascarsija, ☎ . 08:00–19:00. When you get sick of greasy meats, ASDž serves Bosnian-home-cooking, vegetable-centered dishes (but don't expect 100% vegetarian, as many are still flavored with a bit of meat). Order cafeteria-style at the counter: you pay by the plate and can mix-and-match different foods into the same dish.
- Bambus, #32, Ferhadija bb 557-190. An amazing jewel of a restaurant in the central shopping district. You have to go down a small staircase and push a button to be buzzed in to the restaurant but once you are there you will be happy you took the time to find it. It is very classy, quiet, clean, English menu and the waiters speak English. Very good food at good prices. The food is cooked with pride and for the prices charged, it really is a good deal.
- Bosanska Kuca (Bosnian House), Bravadziluk 3, Bascarsija. Seats inside and out in the heart of the Old Town with a wide range of traditional Bosnian food at reasonable prices. You can sit outside against the warm wall of the oven if it's chilly. Muckalica, a veal broth, is delicious and good value at 10KM.
- Cappuccino, Grbavica (near river Miljacka in green area.). Delicious Bosnian meals and the best pasta and pizza in the region.
- Hacienda, Bazardzani 3. Stays open late.. Mexican food, cocktails. Large portions with very fresh ingredients and a pleasant atmosphere. DJs are playing House and Techno Music. Comparing to some other similar places, Hacienda is more expensive but still with good atmosphere. 8-12KM for a main course.
- Inat Kuca (House of Spite), Veliki Alifakovac 1, Bascarsija. An old Turkish house by the river converted to a lovely restaurant selling hearty stew-like meals.
- Karuzo, Mehmeda Spahe bb. While it doesn't serve traditional Bosnian food, this restaurant features a vegetarian/fish based menu, with a mostly Italian influence (although sushi is also available). The pasta dishes are also highly recommended. It's a very intimate restaurant seating only 18 at a time, the chef takes your order prepares the food and serves it himself. Do be aware that you probably do need to have a good deal of time to spare - it can take a couple of hours before you leave.
- Mrkva. Traditional Bosnian food, a local favorite.
- Ottoman Kebap House. Turkish restaurant on a side street in Bascarsija, Old Town. The inner courtyard lets you eat outside while being away from the noise of the street. The staff are friendly, and will cook the food to your desired level of spiciness. Entrees: 7-12 KM; Sargile: 8-10KM, depending on the flavour..
- Park Princeva, Iza Hrida br. 7, ☎ . Slightly more expensive than Inat Kuca, also serving Bosnian food. Located on one of the hills of the city, you have fantastic view, especially around sunset, when you can hear the prayers from the mosques around the valley.
- Zeljo, 4 different locations. Traditional Bosnian food, a local favorite.
- [dead link]Dveri, Prote Bakovića 12, ☎ . Homestyle restaurant in heart of old Sarajevo. Very cozy feel, with strands of garlic, lots of delicious warm bread, hearty soups, meats, etc.
- Moja Mala Kuhinja. A small restaurant owned by Bosnian celebrity Chef Muamer Kurtagic who has hosted cooking shows on national TV stations. The idea is that the whole cooking process is open for public, and customers can enjoy the cooking the food whilst also being educated. His menu changes daily according to the availability of the ingredients. Most dishes prepared by the chef are inspired by some of the best restaurant in Germany where he worked for a number of years. The restaurant can only serve around 15 guests at a time.
- Sarajevo Pivarna (Brewery). A large bar and restaurant near the Latin Bridge with lovely atmosphere and professional staff. Serves 'western' food, accompanied by a variety of beers brewed on the premises. Place is more expensive than most of the places in Sarajevo.
Sarajevo has vibrant night life with a plenty small thematic bars. Clubs are usually opened until early morning. Thursday, Friday and Saturday are hot days to hang out despite the rest of the week offers quite good night life.
- Connectum/Klub Knjige, Veliki Curciluk 27, ☎ . , Part of a bookstore.
- [dead link]Opera Bar/Café, B Sarajeva 25 (opposite the city's Opera house). Fast WiFi connection, but the waitstaff are often unfriendly and inattentive. It attracts the acting and musical community among the regulars, though this isn't an exclusive kind of place. A bit smoky. Espresso: 2 KM.
- Café de Paris, Hamdije Kreševljakovića 61 (South end of Ćumurija bridge, in the green-and-yellow building.), ☎ . 07:00–22:00. You might not have expected to find an I.P.A. in the Balkans, but Café de Paris serves a selection of craft beers from Sarajevo microbreweries. They also have a line of very smooth local rakijas (try the quince). Riverside, outdoor seating looks out upon impressive architecture from the Austro-Hungarian times. Craft beer 3–4 KM.
- Central Cafe, Štrosmajerova 1, Bascarsija. Cocktail bar with great music. Get there early or call to reserve a table. The place is very busy until midnight when people leave to hit the various nightclubs around town. The street is a whole promenade with many other cafes around.
- [dead link]Tre Bicchieri Wine Store & Tasting Bar, Cobanija 3, ☎ . Long list of Italian wines. Very cozy and comfortable place. Good music & relaxing atmosphere.
- [dead link]Baghdad Cafe, Bazardzani 4 (across from Hacienda in Bascarsija). Danceclub/hookah bar in one of the most crowded areas of the Old Town for nightlife.
If you arrive late at night, the weather is right and you have a tent with you, you can camp quite undisturbedly in the park next to the Miljacka river. Chances are that there already some more tents put up. Follow the road on the west side of town, stay close to the river and end up around. In summer there is a public toilet. Be aware that this is wild camping, and there is no guard or anything.
It is also easy to find a room in the house of a local.
- The Doctor's House Hostel, Pehlivanuša 67 (Straight up the hill from the Cathedral), ☎ , e-mail: email@example.com. Smallish hostel managed by a well-traveled American woman in a cozy house on the hillside who goes out of her way to help her guests out. Dorm beds with privacy curtain, reading light, and charging station, big lockers, well-equipped kitchen, great views from the balconies. Free WiFi. From 20KM.
- Haris Youth Hostel, Vratnik Mejdan 29, ☎ . The owner, a young chap named Haris, also owns a tourism agency right near the pigeon square at Kovaci 1 and can take you on tours around the city, annotated with his own personal experiences from the war. Although you must walk uphill for about ten minutes from the main square to get there, it is worth the walk for the beautiful view and hospitable, warm atmosphere.
- Hostel & Guesthouse SA, Hrvatin 15, ☎ , e-mail: , firstname.lastname@example.org. Family-run hostel. It also provides free pick up from the train/bus/airport station. It has an awesome view of the city. From 24KM.
- Hostel City Centre Sarajevo, Saliha Hadzihuseinovica Muvekita No. 2/3 (Between Ferhadija and Zelenih beretki streets), ☎ . (24h)Check-out: 10:00. Recently (as of 2016) renovated and located in the heart of Sarajevo. Very clean and tidy place to stay with kitchen facilities, 2 large living and common rooms, cable TV, free internet and wifi. They have 4,5,6 and 10 bed mixed dorms plus 2,3 and 4 bed private rooms. At 12 April 2012, bed in 10 bed dorm was 25KM. Dorm bed: €15, Dbl room €20.
- Motel Jasmin, Kupreska 26 (in the heart of Bascarsija), ☎ . Singles, doubles, triples with separate bathrooms and TV. From 30KM including breakfast.
- Hostel Ljubičica, Mula Mustafe Bašeskije 65 (in the Old Town, just next to the Bascarsija tram stop), ☎ . Note that the room offered might be a dormitory located in one of several places - it might be along Mule Mustafa ulica, or else up the hill to the east of town. If you are visiting for the first time, you can make arrangements online or by phone, and also arrange with them to be picked up at the train station, or the two bus stations in the city. Note, the owner of this hostel has a small scam going in that she charges people for a 'daily registration' of 3 BAM, despite the authorities only requiring that a person be registered once when initially entering the country at no charge. Also, the rooms and hostel are not very clean. 23 BAM/dorm.
- Hostel Posillipo, Besarina Cikma 5 (almost directly opposite the fountain (), ☎ . Staff is very friendly and informative on everything from good restaurants to tales of the nineties conflict. 30KM.
- [dead link]Hostel/Prenociste Kod Keme, Mali Ćurčiluk 15 (in the heart of Bascarsija). Single: 30KM.
- Pansion Sebilj, Obala Kulina baba between Careve cuprija and Novi most (at the Miljacka riverside). Most of the staff speaks English fluently. An internet-cafe is downstairs in the same house, a restaurant in the atrium. The restaurants in the Old Town, groceries and a pharmacy are all in walking distance. Dealing with the sleeping areas only - good things: Location, friendly staff, hot water, clean. Bad things: No internet, walls are paper thin - you can hear someone cough (or scream) in the next room easily as well as the loud music from downstairs until about midnight, uncomfortable slat beds. Unisex showers (only 2) and bathroom. No way to lock bathroom or shower area when inside. No laundry service, no kitchen. No lockers for gear. 30KM.
- Sartour Hostel. Dorm bed: 20-30KM.
- Hotel & Hostel Telal, Abdesthana 27 (A less than 5 minute walk northeast from the Kovači Square, near Bascarsija), ☎ , e-mail: email@example.com. Single room 50KM, Double room 70KM, Triple room 90KM, Four-bed room 110KM, Apartment (4 beds) 120KM. Special discounts for groups..
- Hotel & Hostel Kan Sarajevo, Brace Begic 35 (near the bus station), ☎ . Single to quadruple bed- bedrooms as well as apartments. Restaurant on site and personal assistance with sight seeing. From 40KM.
- Garni Hotel Konak, Mula Mustafe Başeskije 54 (Take the number 1 tram from the train station to Pigeon Square. Follow the tram tracks west for two blocks, and it will be on your left, look for a red and white sign.), ☎ , e-mail: firstname.lastname@example.org. Built in 1962 and completely renovated in 2008. Staff are friendly, speak English, and in the off season can be persuaded to negotiate. Hotel amenities include breakfast, Ensuite bathrooms and internet connected computers, while the hostel rooms are double bed privates with satellite television which share a bathroom among three rooms. Single: €50-60; Double: €70-80.
- Hotel Michele. The staff is wonderfully nice, breakfast and laundry included and also features private parking with direct elevator access to the room floors and wireless high speed internet.
- [dead link]Motel Sokak, Mula Mustafe Bašeskije 24 (Just down the road from the Bascarsija tram stop.), ☎ , e-mail: , email@example.com. It's small clean, quiet, friendly and comfortable, in an old building but modern inside. Double: €68.
- [dead link]Pansion Cobanija. Private bathrooms and satellite television. The rooms are clean and well-kept, and a continental breakfast is provided. €50.
- Hotel Bristol Sarajevo, Fra Filipa Lastrića 2 (15 minutes by car from airport, 5 min walk to Parliament, 5 min by car to Old Town), ☎ , e-mail: firstname.lastname@example.org. Check-in: 14:00, check-out: 12:00. Reopened early 2011 after being completely renovated. Great rooms and comfortable beds. Friendly staff, three restaurants. No alcohol served. Held in regard now as one of the best large hotels in the city. Superior Room from BAM 160.
- Hotel Central, Ćumurija 8 (right across the popular Strossmayerova pedestrian street), ☎ , e-mail: email@example.com. One of the oldest hotels in the city historically renowned for its spa, it is now considered one of the prime boutique hotels after its recent renovation. Also the spa is excellent.
- Hotel Europe, Vladislava Skarića 5 (right next to the old Turkish bazaar, Bezistan), ☎ , e-mail: , firstname.lastname@example.org. Built in 1882 right next to medieval ruins, it was recently renovated, elevating it to five-star premier boutique status. Home to many celebrities who come to work or visit the city, such as John Travolta, Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie. The in-house Viennese Café is great, offering many Central European as well as local specialties.
- [dead link]Holiday Inn (5 minute walk the train and bus station, and about 10 minutes' walk from the town centre.), e-mail: email@example.com. Clean, safe, nice private rooms with private bathroom and shower, well-maintained. Friendly staff speaks English. Credit cards accepted. The restaurant on the third floor is great. €118.
- Radon Plaza, Džemala Bijedića 185 (at the bottom of Avaz tower, next to the BMW showroom), ☎ , e-mail: firstname.lastname@example.org. It is named after the last name of its owner, who is also the owner of Avaz newspaper and one of the city's wealthiest people.
There are still many minefields and unexploded ordnances in the Sarajevo area and its surrounding suburbs. Never go into damaged buildings (which are really rarely seen) and always stick to paved surfaces avoiding grassy hills that surround the city . Areas that are not cleared are marked by yellow tape or signs, but still not all minefields have been identified due to the lack of resources and the lack of International help. Paved roads are always safe. Crime against foreigners is very rare and the city is safe to visit. (As with any country in former Yugoslavia, be careful not to get into sensitive discussions about politics with people you do not know, but even those can be very educational when you come across a person who's willing to discuss it.) Be aware of pick pockets who usually operate on public transportation vehicles.
Bosnia and Herzegovina has double the traffic fatality rate as Europe as a whole, and Sarajevo has recently seen a few high-profile accidents with pedestrians. Be alert whether driving or crossing the street.
Sarajevo has recently instituted nighttime water restrictions between 00:00 and 05:00. This is to limit water lost from the city's old and deteriorating leaky pipes. Consider filling up a water bottle in the evening. (Rest assured Sarajevo has safe—indeed extremely high quality—tap water, when it's running.)
A final point on health and safety is that the air in Sarajevo can be noticeably thick with pollution, so that asthmatics or those with other chest problems may find themselves short of breath a lot of the time, particularly at night. Please do ensure you have ample medication, just in case.
The Sarajevo City Center mall features a large play area for children. BBI Centar also has one, but it's smaller. Both malls are slightly west of the downtown on the main road.
United States, Alipasina 43, ☎ , fax: .
- Konjic is on the Neretva river, 43 km southwest of Sarajevo, where in 2011 the Tito bunker and Bijenale contemporary art exhibition were opened to the public.