Dumaguete

Dumaguete is the capital city and main port of Negros Oriental, the province that occupies the south-eastern part of Negros Island, in the Philippines. It is sometimes called the "City of Gentle People".

A laid-back university town with a charming sea-front boulevard and a good selection of tourist-oriented services, Dumaguete is a good place to relax for anything from a few days to a few decades. There are many tourists and a large contingent of resident foreigners. According to the Philippine government Dumaguete is the most popular destination in the country for retiring abroad, and Forbes magazine included it in a list of the seven best places to retire worldwide.

Dumaguete is a major transport hub for reaching destinations anywhere on the large island of Negros which is split into two provinces, Negros Oriental and Negros Occidental. In particular, it often serves as an entry point for trips to the diving on Apo Island or dolphin chasing and whale watching near Bais. The small island province of Siquijor, with its many beaches and legends of sorcery, is also often reached via Dumaguete; it is visible from the downtown seafront.

The economy is quite diverse and is doing well; a 2009 survey showed Dumaguete with the lowest incidence of poverty of all cities in the Visayas and Mindanao. The city has been a center of education for over a century, and the transport, market and administrative hub of its region for even longer. Tourism and hi-tech have become important; Dumaguete is among the top ten tourist destinations in the country and has quite a few call centers, business process outsourcing companies and other IT-related enterprises.

Understand

This article covers four towns that are administratively separate but effectively one city:

Dumaguete City proper (134,100 in 2020 census)
Bacong, south along the coast (41,200)
Valencia, on higher ground inland to the southwest (38,700)

Dumaguete, Valencia and Bacong are connected by three roads, approximately an equilateral triangle 8 km (5 miles) on a side.

Sibulan, north along the coast; the two town centers are about 12 km apart (64,300)

Dumaguete is not a large city in population but is spread out over quite a wide area. All three suburbs mentioned above have experienced considerable residential development in this century; many people live in them but come into Dumaguete to work or shop, or for restaurants and nightlife.

Valencia is in a volcanic area, though the volcanoes are dormant. The volcanic soil is fertile, and there is plenty of rain. The area has long been known for agriculture, especially fruit and vegetable production. There is a large farmers' market in the center of Valencia, right where the jeepney from Dumaguete arrives.

The urban part of Valencia is over 200 m (660 ft) above sea level so the town is significantly cooler than Dumaguete on the coast. Partly because of this, it has several new upmarket real estate developments which attract both well-off Dumaguetinos and expatriates. Bacong and Dauin, the next coastal town south, also have a lot of upmarket housing development.

The climate is tropical with an average daily high of 30.6°C (87°F) and low of 24.8°C (77°F); this does not vary much from month to month. Precipitation does vary considerably with a dry season January to May and wet season June to December. Average annual rainfall is 807 mm (32 inches); for comparison, San Francisco and London each get about 600 mm while Metro Cebu gets about 1700 and Hong Kong 2400.

As anywhere in the Philippines, there is some risk of earthquakes and typhoons. However, compared to other areas in the country Dumaguete has relatively low risk of either. Sometimes it gets side effects of typhoons elsewhere; for example in October 2017, heavy rain associated with Typhoon Paolo caused some flooding in Dumaguete.

Get in

The country's two largest cities, and its main hubs for international flights, are Metro Manila and Metro Cebu; from either, there are flights, ferries, and buses (which ride ferries for part of the route) to Dumaguete. Cebu is considerably closer and Mactan-Cebu International Airport is a more pleasant airport to arrive at with an international connection.

If you change planes in Manila or Cebu, allow plenty of time since the security controls to enter each terminal — before you can even join the queue to check in — sometimes cause long delays. On a busy day at Manila Airport it can take almost two hours! You will also need a paper print out of your confirmed flight itinerary.

There are also international flights to Davao, Iloilo, or Clark Airport near Angeles. Cebu Pacific have Davao-Dumaguete and Clark-Dumaguete flights, and from Iloilo one can take a ferry to Bacolod, then bus. Since the new Panglao Airport opened there are now international flights to Bohol and there are good ferry connections from there to Dumaguete.

Kalibo (nearest airport to Boracay) also has international flights, but most are charters for package holidays and there is no good connection to Dumaguete. You could take a bus to Iloilo, ferry to Bacolod, then another bus to Dumaguete, but each bus ride would be about six hours.

By plane

Cebu Pacific has flights from Manila, Cebu, Davao, and Cagayan de Oro, and Philippine Airlines has flights from Manila.

9.334123.2961 Sibulan Airport (DGT ^IATA), ☏ +63 35 225 0900. The airport is in Sibulan, the next town to the north, but is not far from Dumaguete city center (3 km). It has a runway that in many countries would be considered too short for medium sized civilian jet aircraft, but both Cebu Pacific and Philippine Airlines fly in and out with Airbus and Boeing jets daily. Most jets take off toward the sea, where the runway ends abruptly at the salt water of the Tañon Strait/Bohol Sea, so both takeoffs and landings are thrilling affairs.
For ground transportation there is a sign on the terminal building stating fixed rates. As of mid-2020 cost to city center was ₱100 by tricycle, ₱300 by van. To return to the airport, tricycles will quote ₱100-150. Jeepneys go between the highway next to the airport and Dumaguete Public Market downtown for ₱8 either way, but you have to walk a few hundred meters from the terminal to the highway. (updated Apr 2022)

There is a plan to build a new and larger airport in Bacong, south of the city center; there are no international flights to Dumaguete now, but the new airport will handle larger planes and is expected to have many. President Marcos has said it will be completed during his term in office, i.e. by early 2028. The transportation department says 2030. However, as of late 2023 construction has not started and neither any politician's promise nor any Philippine schedule should be considered entirely reliable.

By boat

Frequent sailings from Manila, Cebu City, Tagbilaran, Siquijor and Dapitan are offered with Cebu having the most options and trips.

9.3127123.31091 Dumaguete Port. All the direct-to-Dumaguete ferries arrive and depart here, though other ferries run from southern parts of Cebu Island to Sibulan. Most of the traffic is ferries, though there are some small-to-midsize freighters and container ships. There are no cruise ships and the local fishing boats anchor elsewhere. There may be a few private small cruising vessels, but Tambobo Bay to the south is the main port for those on Negros.

A comfortable way to reach Dumaguete is on one of the better ferries. However, this is considerably more expensive than other ferry or mixed bus/ferry options. Also, they are for passengers only; you cannot bring a vehicle.

Ocean Jet. Fast hydrofoil ferries to and from Cebu via Tagbilaran on Bohol. From Dumaguete, departs 7:30AM (arrives 11:10AM) and 2:20PM (arrives 7:20PM). Tourist Class: ₱900, Business Class: ₱1200.

If you want to stop on Bohol, you have a choice of several fast ferries for the Cebu-Tagbilaran leg of the trip (see Tagbilaran#Fast_ferries) or you might reach Bohol from the south on a CDO-Jagna ferry. However, Ocean Jet is the only fast ferry for the Tagbilaran-Dumaguete journey.

2Go. larger than most other ferries. They have one Manila-Dumaguete departure a week leaving Manila Sunday evening, arriving Tuesday morning, and leaving Wednesday for the return voyage. They also have a ferry from Dumaguete to Zamboanga via Dipolog.

Ro-Ro's are also available; these are slower and cheaper ferries where cars can roll on and roll off.

Cokaliong Shipping Lines. Daily from Cebu City (7 hours, ₱355 and up). They also sail from Dapitan on Mindanao Tu-Th & Sa at 4 PM and return the same days at 7AM. for Dapitan departs at 7AM. from ₱355.
George and Peter Shipping. out of service
Montenegro shipping lines. to and from Dapitan and Siquijor.
Aleson Shipping Lines. Daily to and from Dapitan and Siquijor.
Super Shuttle Ferry. Daily to and from Dapitan. ₱385.
FastCat. Dumaguete to Dapitan. ₱520.
Medallion Transport 5am daily Dumaguete to Dapitan.

For trips from Dumaguete to Cebu, the best option is often the overnight boat with Cokaliong or George and Peter lines. These cost ₱300-odd, depart at 11PM or midnight, and reach Cebu around 7AM. Neither company has departures every night, but usually at least one does.

Ticketing offices for most boats are either along the road leading into the port (George & Peter, Cokaliong) or nearby on the main road just north of the port (Ocean Jet, Aleson). 2GO are further along the main road, past the first intersection north of the port. Most travel agents and some hotels can also get tickets. The boats, especially Ocean Jet, often get quite full so booking a day or two in advance is advisable.

By bus

9.2993123.30572 Ceres. A major bus line serving Cebu and Negros islands. Their buses are a conspicuously bright yellow. Like the other bus lines, their drivers are recklessly fast and drive on the klaxon.

From Cebu

The Ceres line has direct buses from the south bus station in Cebu City to Dumaguete; they go down to the south end of Cebu Island, across to Negros Island via a short ferry ride that lands in San Jose just north of Sibulan, then on to Dumaguete. Total travel time is typically about six hours but may be an hour or so less or considerably longer depending on traffic, weather and whether there is a delay waiting for the ferry.

From Cebu, the Dumaguete buses are scheduled at 6AM, 7:30AM, 10AM, 11:30AM, 1PM, 2:30PM, 4PM, and 6PM. The first bus for Cebu from Dumaguete leaves at 3:15AM and the last at 2PM; there are many trips in between, scheduled every hour or two. Scheduling is not at all strict; a bus will leave early if it is full, sometimes more than an hour early. Cost for the bus (Feb 2018) is ₱235, paid to the conductor. There is a separate ₱70 charge for the ferry; someone comes round to collect it. A senior's discount is available on both fares, making them ₱192 and ₱55.

You can also take a non-air-conditioned Ceres bus from the Cebu south bus terminal to Liloan ferry terminal for ₱165, then get a ferry over to Sibulan ferry terminal for ₱48, then a jeepney to Dumaguete downtown market for ₱12. Total ₱225.

At busy times, such as major holidays, you may be better off taking a boat or even plane since you can book tickets in advance for those rather than just queuing up and hoping. For example, during Cebu's Sinulog festival it will be slow and difficult to get a bus and when you do it may be very slow as the many parades cause traffic jams.

From Negros Occidental

There are Ceres buses to and from Bacolod, capital of the western province of Negros Occidental (which shares the island of Negros with Negros Oriental whose capital is Dumaguete). Possible stops along that route include Kabankalan which has some beach resorts, Mabinay which is a caving destination, and Bais which has beaches, dolphins and whale sharks.

Bacolod to Dumaguete: first trip at 2AM and last trip at 7PM.
Dumaguete to Bacolod: first trip at 2:30AM last trip at 7:30PM.

There are many trips a day. Fare for a non-air-conditioned bus is ₱300 each way. and for the air-conditioned bus is ₱377. Travel time is 6-7 hours.

An alternative route, longer and more expensive, would be to follow the coast rather than cutting across the center of the island. This would give the opportunity to stop at several beach areas along the way, notably Sipalay. See #Outside_town for places nearer Dumaguete on this route.

From Luzon

Ceres also now have a bus from the Cubao district of Quezon City (which is part of Metro Manila) to Dumaguete. It goes by land to Batangas City, by ferry to Caticlan on Panay, by land to Iloilo, ferry to Bacolod, and finally by land to Dumaguete. DLTB also have a bus route that goes from Cubao down to Bicol at the southern end of Luzon, across to Samar on a ferry, then overland to Ormoc. From Ormoc, one can reach Cebu City by ferry, and from Cebu there are both boats and buses to Dumaguete.

For most travellers, the buses from Cubao are not a desirable choice; either has travel time over 36 hours and cost above ₱2500, which is higher than some flights or some classes of travel on the luxurious 2Go boats. However, one of them may be a good choice if you want intermediate stops. For example, one might visit two of the country's best-known tourist destinations by taking the bus from Cubao to Batangas, ferry across to Puerto Galera, back to Batangas for the ferry to Caticlan, short ferry ride to Boracay, and back to the bus for the run to Dumaguete.

Alternative routes

If you want to see more of the southern parts of Cebu Island, you can travel south from Cebu City on your own, then reach Dumaguete with smaller hops from there. All these ferries are ro-ros so bringing a vehicle is possible,

Take a bus to the San Sebastian (Bato) area of Samboan, then take a 20-30 minute ferry ride to Sibulan, 20 minutes away from the centre of Dumaguete. Ferries leave from Sibulan 5AM-5PM. To get this bus you must play the game chasing against time; seats are limited and if you don't get a chance to be an early bird in booking a ticket, you'll probably end up sleeping in the bus terminal waiting for the next day's departures.
Ro-ro from 9.5175123.3013 Samboan, on Cebu Island to 9.3717123.26674 Looc, Sibulan operated by Lite Shipping Corporation at 4PM, 7PM, 8:30PM & 10PM with journeys to Cebu Island at 5AM, 8:30AM, 11:30AM & 1PM with an 80-min journey time. ☏ +63 915 780 0252 (Globe network), ☏ +63 929 586 1702 (Smart network). Return vehicle fare (for a multicab) of ₱1080 includes driver and one passenger with additional passengers at ₱70 each.

It is also possible to go west from Cebu City to Toledo and get a ferry to San Carlos (Negros Occidental) there, or get a direct bus from the North Bus Terminal in Mandaue to San Carlos. From San Carlos, you can then travel south along the coast of Negros via Bais and Tanjay toward Dumaguete. This route is longer, slower and less travelled.

From Iloilo City, the easiest route is by ferry to Bacolod then bus to Dumaguete. From Palawan one can take a plane or ferry to Iloilo, or fly to Cebu City. From Manila one could get a direct flight or boat, but it is also possible take a ferry or plane to any of Iloilo City, Bacolod, Cebu City or Tagbilaran then continue to Dumaguete.

From Mindanao, there are direct connections to Dumaguete by boat from Dapitan.

From Cagayan de Oro or Camiguin it is also possible to take a ferry to Bohol and change to another for Dumaguete.

Get around

9°18′25″N 123°18′24″E

Map of Dumaguete

Dumaguete has few taxis and almost none of the jeepneys you'll see in other cities in the Philippines. There are some jeepneys going to nearby towns but, unlike other cities, there are no jeepneys with general-purpose downtown routes. Most in-town transit is by motorcycle/sidecar rigs called traysikels or pedicabs.

Locals in the Philippines name a landmark or commercial establishment near their destinations, street names are rarely used or known. Many travellers will be able to get around knowing only the names of three landmarks: Rizal Boulevard, Lee Plaza and Robinson's Place; most other places of interest are within easy walking distance of one of those.

If you must have air conditioning and are willing to pay for it, then the few taxis are often found near the Bethel Guest House or at Robinson's Place Mall. Neither the locals nor the resident foreigners use these much; they either have their own vehicles or take pedicabs which are easier to find and cheaper.

Motorcycles are also popular; the roads have considerably more of them than cars. They can be rented in several shops along Perdices St, near the corners of Pinili and Santa Rosa Streets, typically for ₱300 a day. Few locals use helmets; if you plan to ride it is a good idea to bring a good-quality helmet with you.

By pedicab

The standard transport option is a three-wheeled contraption usually called a pedicab. In parts of the Philippines a "pedicab" is human-powered, but in Dumaguete it is a motorcycle with a sidecar. In other areas, that might be called a traysikel. These are cheap by foreign standards, usually easily found, and very convenient.

These do have a windshield and a roof so there is some protection from the elements, but they are neither quiet nor very comfortable. The sidecar has seating for four, two facing forward and two back, but it is designed for Filipinos and four Westerners will not usually fit unless one rides pillion behind the operator.

These are shared vehicles; expect to ride along with whoever happens to be going the same way, and to take the odd detour as the driver diverts to deliver other passengers to their destinations. Fare is regulated at ₱9 per person for trips of up to 3 km, more for longer distances and an extra charge for luggage is allowed. For most trips within town, just give the driver ₱10, or even ₱20 for longer distances or at night.

When travelling to further-out destinations (airport, etc.), or if you want the machine to yourself, expect to pay more and negotiate, probably before you get in. Coming from the airport, there are flat rates posted on signs outside the terminal, ₱100 for downtown and ₱120 for the south side of town, e.g. Robinson Mall. Prices can be high for a journey to a suburb; for example most drivers ask ₱150 or more for Valencia, and most customers take a jeepney for ₱12 instead. A family with luggage going from downtown to Dauin might be asked for ₱400.

By jeepney

There are various terminals for jeepneys to nearby towns or suburbs; these are cheap and interesting, but often quite crowded. Sit up front with the driver if you can; this is more comfortable and has a better view. Most jeepneys give a discount for students or seniors.

The Jeepney terminals are mostly in the area around the cathedral or the market west of it.

9.3047123.30755 Jeepneys to Dauin (around the corner from the bell tower).
9.3063123.30586 Jeepneys to Sibulan (northwest corner of the market).
9.3064123.30787 Jeepneys to San Jose (next to the park, just off Perdices).
9.3036123.30548 Jeepneys to Valencia (southwest of the market). ₱12 per person, ₱10 for seniors.
9.2807123.24519 Jeepneys Valencia-to-Dumaguete (next to the market). This is where jeepneys from Dumaguete arrive and the ones going back depart. ₱12.
9.2994123.302710 Jeepneys to Zamboanguita (across from Robinson Place). Some park a bit north of the corner, pointing south on the highway, others just west of the corner, ready to turn south. Zamboanguita is a seaside town south of the city.
9.2983123.305811 Jeepneys to several places (behind Robinson's Place). This terminus has jeepneys to Bacong, Dauin, Zamboanguita and Valencia.

Jeepneys or buses northbound to Sibulan, San Jose or Tanjay can sometimes be flagged down on Rizal Boulevard or on the highway going north out of the city, and jeepneys for many places can sometimes be found near the pier, but your chances of a comfortable seat are better at the terminal.

See

9.30512123.307681 Bell Tower (Campanario de Dumaguete). This is the oldest surviving structure in the city, a relic of the long Spanish occupation of Negros Island. It used to be a watchtower to warn the locals against marauding pirates from Mindanao. The first two storeys date from the mid-1700s with the structure above that added later. Its largest bell is engraved with a date of 1818.
9.3054123.30692 Cathedral of Santa Catalina (Dumaguete Cathedral) (next to the bell tower). A fine old Roman Catholic church, built under Spanish rule in the 1700s and consequently the oldest stone church in the whole of the province of Negros Oriental. It's dedicated to Saint Catherine of Alexandria who is the patron saint of the city. Her festival is vigorously celebrated around the end of November each year since a Mass celebrating liberation from the Spanish took place in its grounds on the 24 November 1898. The entrance gates are supported by sculptures of Matthew, Mark, Luke and John on tall pedestals.

Dumaguete is a university town; there are four universities plus various colleges, and about a quarter of the population of the city proper are students.

Foremost of the city's educational institutions is Silliman University.

9.3108123.30893 Silliman University Hall. Built in 1902-1903, this is the oldest U.S. structure in the Philippines still standing. Its architecture is reminiscent of the Stick Style or Victorian type of architecture that characterized U.S. buildings in the late 19th century. On the east or ocean side of the hall is a bronze bust of Horace Silliman.
- Luce Auditorium (in Silliman Hall). Considered the cultural center of the South. Named for the American Luce family, media magnates who owned Time, Life and other magazines. The tin ceiling was salvaged from an old theater in New York.
- Marine Laboratory Museum (in Silliman Hall). Houses the second-largest whale bone collection in the world.

9.3108123.30554 Silliman University Church (on Silliman campus). A Protestant church with some fine stained glass windows. Like the university, it was set up by American Presbyterian missionaries, but its outlook today is very ecumenical; it describes itself as "a church ministering to all Sillimanians, regardless of their denomination and religious affiliations". (updated Jan 2021)
9.3105123.30685 Silliman University Anthropology Museum, Rizal Boulevard (on Silliman campus). The Anthropology Museum houses some Philippine artifacts that were excavated from many parts of the country dating back hundreds or thousands of years. A good example of how to make interesting stuff intensely boring. A smart move was to forbid any photographic record of the mediocre displays. Base rate ₱40 for locals, ₱60 for others, with discounts for children and seniors. Rates double on weekends or holidays..
9.3198123.30396 Silliman Zoo, near Silliman Medical Center (signs opposite Silliman medical centre). 9AM-4PM. It conserves endangered Philippine native animals which are rarely seen; eg, spotted deer, warty pigs and crocodiles. Well worth the ₱10 entry fee. They also need financial support. It's a 15-min walk from the city center or a ₱8 pedicab ride. ₱10.

Inland (west) of Dumaguete are a range of volcanic mountains running from well south of the city to well north of it. None of the volcanoes are active but several of them are not extinct either; experts say they have the potential to erupt again. Travel services in Dumaguete or local guides closer to the sites can arrange trips. Some of the main sites are:

9.242123.1777 Mt. Talinis (Southwest of the city in Valencia Municipality). The second-highest mountain in Negros Oriental at 1903 m, a dormant volcano, one of a group called the Cuernos de Negros (Horns of Negros). It has lakes, waterfalls and a mossy forest as well as a stream with sulfur vents. Local mountaineering groups frequent the mountain.
9.2953123.17258 Palinpinon Geothermal Plant (Palinpinon is a barangay of Valencia). This geothermal plant provides electric power for all of Negros Island, Panay, and Guimaras, plus parts of Cebu Province. The power station plaza is closed to visitors at the guard house.
9.3138123.20079 Volcanic Road (On the way to the power station). Get up close and personal with some sulphur vents along the roadside
9.352123.18210 Balinsasayao Twin Lakes Natural Park (northwest of the city in Sibulan Municipality). A large protected forest area centered on two volcanic crater lakes. The flora and fauna have been considerably degraded, but it's still an interesting daytrip.

Each of the suburbs we include in this article — Valencia, Sibulan and Bacong — is administered as a separate town and all have been towns since the era of Spanish rule. They all have some buildings going back to that era, clustered around a central plaza; the ones in Bacong include the oldest church in the province.

Do

The free public urban beach is Silliman Beach, just south of the airport (3 km north of downtown). While often crowded and usually littered, it has three advantages over many other beaches of Negros: the bottom is all sand without mud or rocks, it's deep enough so that the sea does not retreat far from the beach even at low tide, and mature trees provide a good amount of shade in the afternoon.

There are several popular seaside resort areas nearby and it is common for travellers to use Dumaguete as a base for visiting one or more of them, since the beaches in town are often highly polluted. Many hotels and all travel agencies in Dumaguete can arrange trips to any of them.

Apo Island - a small island somewhat south of Dumaguete with excellent diving
Bais - a city on the coast to the north, known for dolphin and whale watching
Siquijor - an island province with good beaches and many tales of witches and sorcerers, visible from the Dumaguete boulevard and accessible via frequent ferries.

There are many dive shops in Dumaguete. Some of them are:

Adventure Diving, ☏ +63 35 422-1781.
Harold's Dive Center (At Harold's Mansion hotel), ☏ +63 35 522-0144, info@haroldsdivecenter.com. Has its own dive boats
SCUBA Ventures (At Harold's Mansion hotel), ☏ +63 35 225 7716, info@dumaguetedive.com. PADI instruction and other services.

Learn

There are many small colleges and vocational schools, some English-teaching mainly for Chinese and Koreans, and four universities:

9.312778123.3066671 Silliman University (north end of the boulevard). The oldest American university in Asia and the first Protestant college to be founded in this predominantly Roman Catholic country. The main street running north-south through the campus is Hibbard Avenue, named for the missionary couple who founded it in 1901 as a high school. The street that borders the campus on the south is Silliman Avenue; like the university, it is named for the New England industrialist who financed the project.
9.326872123.2981862 Saint Paul University.
9.3053123.33 Foundation University.
9.3122123.30374 Negros Oriental State University (NORSU). The main campus is in Dumaguete, and there are satellite campuses in other towns.

The Silliman University Library is one of the best in the Visayas with more than 100,000 volumes, and provides a relatively quiet and air conditioned sanctuary from the perpetual hum and throb of the streets. It's not usually open to the public, but for a purely nominal fee and a courteous word with the librarian you might be admitted as an overseas visitor.

There is a public library in the cluster of municipal buildings on Colon Street, next to the fire station and near the post office, with free WiFi.

Buy

The main shopping area downtown is Perdices Street from around the Bell Tower to the edge of Silliman University. The street continues north into the university, but the name changes to Hibbard Avenue.

Downtown

9.3156123.30231 Cang's Department Store, East Rovira Dr. M-Sa 9AM-7:30PM, Su 10AM-7:30PM. Moderate prices with UnionPay, Visa, JCB and MasterCards accepted, this is a good option for a weekly grocery shop on the ground floor since the basement car park is both free and underutilised. There is a food court on the top floor and the Filomena Cafe 2 (of Bethel Guest House fame) accepts cards too. Purified and cooled water is available free of charge from a self-service drinking fountain with glasses. On the first floor above the ground, small Philippines flags at ₱6 each make good value and lightweight souvenirs if you are flying from nearby Dumaguete airport.
9.308123.30672 Cang's downtown, San Jose, corner of Maria Christina. Newer and smaller second location, with no cafe.
9.308123.30753 Lee Plaza & Supermarket, Perdices St (near the middle of the town's main commercial street). 9AM-8PM. Main department store in the city centre with a large supermarket in the basement; accepts Visa, JCB and MasterCard. Two bakeries, ground floor and basement; the basement one may be the only place in town with bagels. Food court on top floor.
9.3075123.30774 Robinson's (in the same block of Perdices Street as Lee Plaza but on the opposite side of the road). 8AM-9PM. Supermarket, bakery (with seating & coffee) and drugstore on ground floor. Appliances and hardware store in basement.
9.3098123.30645 AAC Tech, RHD Building, Ma. Cristina St, ☏ +63 35 226-2830. Computers, Apple products from laptops to i-Pods, other gadgets.
9.3068123.30766 Unitop Department Store, Percides Street Cor Locsin street (Park bldg.), ☏ +63 35-4228223. 9AM-8PM. Generally cheaper than Lee or Robinson, popular with locals. (updated Apr 2018)
9.30357123.306837 YanYan Baking and Culinary, corner of Mabini St and Santa Rosa St (a few blocks south of Dumaguete Market). Primarily supplies bakers with all imaginable and unimaginable ingredients, but also carries an interesting selection of other hard-to-find groceries.

On the boulevard, Why Not? has imported (mainly European) groceries, including some things you cannot find elsewhere. Prices tend to be high but are sometimes better than in the imported foods section of a supermarket.

Outside downtown

9.3013123.29778 Lee Plaza Hypermart, Valencia Rd. 9AM-7PM. One large store, plus a food court.
9.2987123.30319 Robinson's Place Mall, Dumaguete Business Park. This is a large, air-conditioned suburban mall. Expensive, but there is no surcharge for Visa or MasterCards in its supermarket, although none of the chain eateries take plastic.
9.3319123.307310 Silliman Farm (north of the campus, toward the airport), ☏ +63 35 422 5654, aggies@silliman.edu.ph. A 24-hectare (60-acre) farm run by the university's College of Agriculture. High-quality milk and eggs, sometimes other products including turkeys. (updated Oct 2017)
9.3233123.298811 Citi Mall, Dumaguete North Road (On the highway, just before the airport). 9AM-9PM. Has a Savemore supermarket. Watsons, Ace hardware, and many fast food outlets. Coffee shop. (updated Oct 2017)

If you want a lot of stuff, for example if you are setting up housekeeping, then the Hypermart may be preferable to Robinson's Place. Robinson's have four separate stores in their mall — supermarket, department store, TV & appliances, and other hardware — with separate delivery systems for each, and they refuse to combine purchases from multiple stores into one delivery. At the Hypermart you can get groceries, appliances, bedding and furniture in one store, get them all delivered in one load, and pay only one delivery fee.

Other shopping

There are farmers' markets near the center of every town; all are very good for fruit and vegetables and have other things as well. All these markets except Valencia are right on the main north-south coastal highway through the region. The one in Dumaguete is just west of the cathedral and the one in Valencia is where the jeepneys deliver you if you arrive that way.

9.3055123.306112 Dumaguete market. Around this market is the best place in town to look for small services: key cutting, shoe or bicycle repair, tailors, manicure.
9.2808123.244713 Valencia market. Has several restaurants.
9.3601123.285114 Sibulan market.
9.2453123.295115 Bacong market.

Zamboanguita, south of Dumaguete, also has a market. Every Wednesday, the village of Malatapay there has a large market; the specialties are handicrafts and seafood.

Robinson's Place has two bookstores, both part of nationwide chains and both with a reasonable selection of books in English. National Bookstore on the ground floor has new books while Book Sale, upstairs, sells used books. There is also a book store downtown on Perdices a little north of Lee Plaza; it has a lot of children's books and textbooks, but almost nothing for general adult readers.

On the hallway leading to the immigration office (listed under #Cope) is the small family-owned X.I.Q. bookstore (which also is a book rental place) which seems to be the only establishment in town with a good selection of sci-fi and fantasy; they also have a large selection of romances and children's books. The second floor of that building also has a bookstore.

Eat

There are restaurants all over Dumaguete and some of the plainer ones with Filipino customers away from the central strip may be the best places to search for low prices or local color. In particular, places catering to the student market near any of the universities (especially along Hibbard Avenue near Silliman University or the North Highway near Negros Oriental U) are often cheap and lively.

All the places listed under #Drink below also serve food, though not all have a large menu.

Budget

This page uses the following price ranges for a typical meal for one, including soft drink:
Budget	under ₱200
Mid-range	₱200-400
Splurge	over ₱400

Most of these places — at least Chow King, Filomena, Food Net and Scooby's — offer free filtered and chilled water from a self-service fountain with a supply of glasses. Most also have soft drinks around ₱10, and some have tea, coffee or juices. None serve alcohol.

Albertos Pizza, Real Street, ☏ +63 35-4226392. 9AM-11PM. Free home delivery. from ₱75. (updated Feb 2017)
Bakery (basement of Lee Plaza). A range of espresso variants and baked goods, done well enough that the regulars include a group of European French speakers. One of very few places in town that sell bagels. Cheapest brewed coffee downtown at ₱36, though some people prefer Scooby's at ₱50 for larger cups and better chairs.
9.3083123.30781 Chow King (on Perdices, diagonally opposite Lee Plaza). A chain offering moderately-priced Chinese (mainly Cantonese) food. Pork or beef fried rice, with four shui mai (small noodle-wrapped pork items) and a soft drink, ₱99.
Filomena Cafe (two locations: see Bethel Guest House listing under #Sleep, and Cang's under #Buy). A very hygienic, air-conditioned cafeteria-style place with a good selection of reasonably priced dishes. Their vegetable fried rice is particularly tasty. All-you-can-eat buffet on Friday evenings for ₱200. Visa and MasterCard are accepted. They give a 20% discount on most things for seniors with Philippine ID, such as the government ACR card which many longer-term visitors have.
9.30848123.308662 Food Net, corner of Noblefranca & Santa Catalina (a block inland from the boulevard). Food Net are a chain with several locations around town. They have cafeteria-style service, Filipino food, moderate prices and a largely student crowd. A basic meal — meat dish, veggie dish, rice, soft drink — is about ₱90.

Next to Food Net on Noblefranca is a small stand with cheap Filipino food. Their deep-fried bananas (cut up, coated with batter and optionally with sugar) make a tasty cheap dessert at ₱10 a stick. Two sticks would be a light meal.

9.3151123.30733 Food Net, Hibbard Ave (across the street from the Coco Grande hotel).
9.3009123.30774 Food Net, South end of Perdices (close to bus station).
9.3081123.30875 Gyro Monsters (a block east of Lee Plaza). M-Sa 10AM to 9PM. Cheap and tasty shawarma; the best seller is beef or chicken shawarma wrapped in pita at ₱30, or 35 with cheese. The most expensive thing on the menu is shawarma rice for ₱50; two of the sandwiches are a better buy.
If you expect shawarma as you would find it in the Middle East, you will be disappointed here. For that, at slightly higher prices, walk a block north to Mediterranean Food (Turkish, listed at #Other downtown places) or go to Tarbush (Lebanese, #North of the center). (updated Mar 2020)
9.3082123.3086 Scooby's, San Jose St (a bit east of Lee Plaza). 7:30AM-10PM. Scooby's is a chain with various locations around town. Their brewed coffee at ₱50 is both a larger serving and (at least for some tastes) better quality than most coffee offered on Rizal Boulevard at ₱70-120. They also have all the usual variations on espresso, several types of herbal tea, a range of mostly western-style baked goods, and moderately-priced mostly Filipino hot foods. There is a seniors' discount if you have a Philippine senior ID. ACR card not accepted.
For Western tastes, most Filipino spaghetti sauces are appallingly sweet, and many will find the spaghetti here downright ghastly. Order the lasagna here (₱55) or go to Filomena for a much better cheap (₱45) spaghetti. For excellent pasta at considerably higher prices, try Mafioso or Pasta King. (updated Mar 2020)
9.3104123.3077 Scooby's, Silliman Ave (In the university's Portal West building). 8AM-midnight. Another location. (updated Jan 2019)
9.3086123.30748 Wah Crepe, Ever Mall, Perdices St (ground floor, back right hand corner). 9AM-6:30PM. A small stand selling coffee, crepes, waffles & fruit shakes. All are freshly made and good quality; plum crepes and avocado shakes are remarkable. Best buy is a combo, shake plus waffle. It is only one of a group of food stands, so ordering a shake here and getting food elsewhere is possible.
The place is popular with the town's resident foreigners; it gets more younger ones and fewer drunks than their other hangouts. ₱50-80 for most items. (updated Mar 2018)

There are also two small cheap burger places on the Boulevard. See #Along the boulevard.

Mid-range

A major area for restaurants and bars is the scenic seafront strip along Rizal Boulevard, plus the streets just behind it up to or a bit beyond Perdices. The cheapest food in this area is from street vendors who appear along the sea front, mainly near the north end, in the evenings selling tempura and corn-on-the-cob.

The restaurants are generally mid-range in pricing, with main courses in the ₱150-350 range, though an imported steak can be up to ₱1200. The food is generally quite good and the range of choices is large, but prices are often somewhat higher than in other areas of town. Quality of the coffee varies rather widely, and much of it is not worth the prices charged here; see #Budget above for alternatives. However the boulevard places more-or-less all have cold beer (₱50-60) and many serve good milkshakes (₱60-110). Tea, juices, wine and mixed drinks are also on offer in many places. Many offer calamansi juice, from a local fruit similar to a lime; this is worth trying if you like citrus drinks.

Nearly all these places have patios with a view of the sea; this is a mixed blessing. The view is lovely and there is often a welcome sea breeze, but there is no air conditioning, the traffic noise can be distinctly unpleasant, during storms the rain blows in, and people on the patios will be bothered by beggars and vendors of various things.

Along the boulevard

We list the boulevard restaurants here in north-to-south order:

The Blue Monkey Grill, on the corner of Rizal and Silliman, closed in early 2018. As of the start of 2020, something is actively under construction on their former site.
The Bricks Hotel has a restaurant and bar. ₱50 beer, smoking area out back.
Kimstaurant. New in 2019, large, clean and modern. Korean food.
9.31123.30929 Tom 'n Tom's Coffee (ground floor). Part of a chain, large with nice decor. Has good air conditioning, free Wifi, and a good selection of both baked goods and variations on the theme of espresso. Prices might be considered good by tourists but are high by local standards.
Just Do Eat (on the second floor, above Tom 'n Tom's). Large, with much seafood on the menu. Popular with Asian tourists. The city's resident foreigners more often go to Lantaw, listed at #North of the center. (updated Nov 2016)
9.3098123.309210 Bo's Coffee (inside an office building, on the ground floor). A national chain with several locations in Dumaguete, serving mainly coffee & baked goods. Prices are high by local standards.
La Residencia Almar. (listed under #Sleep) has three upmarket restaurants. All are somewhat expensive, and all have some customers who consider them worth it. There is also a moderately priced burger bar.
- Don Atilano (La Residencia Almar). Spanish decor & menu, steaks a specialty. All-you-can eat lunch buffet Friday & Saturday, ₱339.
- Wakagi (La Residencia Almar). Japanese food.
- The Filipino (La Residencia Almar). Filipino food.
- Das Bürgery (La Residencia Almar). Small, clean & modern. Menu is limited — only burgers, fries and soft drinks — but quality is good & prices are quite reasonable for what you get. No beer and not much seating, so do not plan an evening here; just grab a burger then go elsewhere for the beer. burgers ₱80-230, fries ₱50-160, drinks ₱45.
Hamburg joints. Two small cheap places with mostly Filipino customers, one with BBQ chicken as well as burgers. The burgers are not nearly as good as in the tourist restaurants on the Boulevard, and they are smaller as well, but then they are about a quarter the price. The waitress who brings you the expensive burger elsewhere quite likely eats here on her breaks. ₱25-40.
9.30901123.3094611 GameOn Sportsbar, 48 Rizal Blvd. Small and plain compared to other places, with no a/c but many fans, big-screen TVs for sports, sometimes live music. (updated Apr 2019)
- Japanese place (down a hallway beside Bogart's). Nice decor, sake and other Japanese drinks.
9.3085123.3094912 Sans Rival. One of the oldest cake shops in the city. They occupy a pair of buildings on a corner with the cake shop in the smaller one on the side street and "Sans Rival Bistro" on Rizal.
- Sans Rival cake shop. Offers baked goods (surprise!), drinks, and some pasta and salad dishes.
- Sans Rival Bistro. The bistro offers a broader range including a half dozen breakfast options at ₱200-odd. All-you-can-eat breakfast buffet on Sunday 7:30-10AM for ₱285.
9.3081123.309613 Chin Loong (Rizal Boulevard), ☏ +63 35 422-6933. Good Chinese (Cantonese) food, with reasonable service and prices. Large covered patio.
9.30796123.3095914 Casablanca (Rizal Boulevard), ☏ +63 35 422-4080. open for breakfast at 6:30AM. European food, elegant décor, and a good wine list. Their patio is above street level and has a wall, so customers here are not bothered by beggars or street vendors as often as at other establishments.
There are several breakfast options starting at ₱230, all including unlimited coffee and a glass of juice. The American breakfast at ₱295 is bacon, two eggs, bread, and some fried tomatoes and onions.
The Austrian owner/chef sold the place to Filipinos in 2021 and some say it has gone downhill since then. (updated Aug 2020)
7-Eleven. Chain convenience store with a few tables; the best-selling item is a large soft ice cream cone for ₱15. It also sells soft drinks, snacks and cigarettes; for those it is more expensive than supermarkets but cheaper than the bars. The chain is expanding; there are several other locations around town and more coming. (updated Dec 2017)
9.3077123.309715 Paseo Perdices. A building with two floors, built on the location of the Perdices family home; one family member was the provincial governor and has one of the town's main streets named for him. There are two levels, and the lower level has a large shaded central courtyard.
- Yellow Cab Pizza (Lower level), ☏ +63 35 421 1111. Part of a chain. Delivery available; they use yellow scooters. (updated May 2016)
- Max's Restaurant (Lower level), ☏ +63 35 421 0615. Part of a chain. Their specialty is fried chicken. Breakfast from 7:30AM.
- Infini Tea (Upper level), ☏ +63 35 522 2991. Their specialty is milk tea.
- Gabby's Bistro (Upper level). Second location; the first one is an in-house restaurant at Hotel Florentina.
- Thai Massage (Upper level).
9.3075123.309716 Why Not? (70 Rizal Boulevard). One-stop shopping? Restaurant, deli, disco, karaoke, cyber cafe, billiard room, and travel agent under one roof. Beer here is sometimes among the cheapest in town, at ₱42 in the restaurants in the afternoon, but higher at other times and ₱90 at the disco.
- Le Chalet (Part of Why Not?). Salads, pasta, other types of European and American food, with decent quality and prices. Inside with a/c or patio. The current chef is from Milan but the menu emphasizes German and Swiss specialities. There are also a few Thai dishes, competently done, for those who prefer something spicier. All-you-can eat breakfast buffet on Sundays, ₱331.
- Chiccos Deli (Part of Why Not?). open until 1AM weekends. Selling meats, wines, cheese & chocolate, with many imported European items. Has a bakery with good croissants and pretzels. There are few tables inside and a small patio in front. Both offer the same menu as Le Chalet, but many customers just come for coffee or beer.
- Why Not? disco (Part of Why Not?). 9PM until wee hours. A popular place for male travellers looking to meet local women, and vice versa. Hazards include painfully loud music, the chance of getting a ladyboy instead of a woman, and the occasional drunken brawl. There are some prostitutes, many lasses who just want to dance and flirt, and many who are interested in acquiring a prosperous boyfriend. A typical salary for a waitress or sales clerk here is well under ₱10000 (~US$200) a month, so to them nearly all foreign men seem rich.
  Attitudes to the place among resident foreigners vary widely; some absolutely refuse to set foot in it, and some are forbidden to do so by their wives or girlfriends, while others visit it quite often. (updated Mar 2020)
Honeycomb Tourist Inn. (listed under #Sleep) has a restaurant with a large patio area out front, with live music most evenings. Around the side is a small Japanese restaurant, and inside the building a disco and a sports bar.
9.3068123.309917 Allegre. A large restaurant offering mainly Italian and Filipino dishes. Highest prices in town for pasta.
Pool table downstairs, table is in better shape than at the one at Why Not? and there are usually fewer players competing for it.
Bethel Guest House (listed under #Sleep) has Filomena Cafe (listed under #Budget).

Starbucks. Another place for coffee and baked goods at prices that are high by local standards.
9.3058123.310218 Gerry's Bar and Grill. A fine old house renovated in 2018 to become a large restaurant. Part of a large chain with reasonable quality but some unreasonable prices.

Parents bringing kids to the boulevard fairly often get them either hot dogs at the cheap burger places or ice cream cones at 7-Eleven.

Other downtown places

There are also a number of restaurants that are not on the boulevard but are within easy walking distance. Many are either on Santa Catalina (parallel to the boulevard, a short block inland) or on Silliman Avenue (running inland from the north end of the boulevard).

Along Silliman:

9.3103123.308719 Mooon Cafe (The 3rd 'o' in the name is deliberate), Silliman Ave (just off the boulevard). Part of a chain that advertises "Mexican-inspired" food. They offer that, various pizza and pasta dishes, and other western dishes; most of it is done competently. Good soups ₱59, burrito ₱139 (quite good, provided you tell them not to put lettuce in it!), pizza from ₱165, small but good steak ₱300. The best-buy drink is bottomless iced tea at ₱58. Other dishes, such as the "nachos" (overpriced chips & salsa) or the "enchiladas" (a salad served in a tortilla), are distinctly unimpressive. Senior's discount 20% but you may need the Philippines senior's ID to claim it; sometimes they will take an ACR card, but not always. (updated Apr 2018)
El Amigo (next door to Mooon). Live jazz on weekends
Captain Ribber's (next door to El Amigo). The specialty is ribs, but they have a range of other dishes.
9.31031123.308120 Jo's Chicken Inato, Silliman Ave. Part of a chain specializing in barbeque chicken. Favorite among locals and tourists.
There is another Jo's in Sibulan, a km or two beyond the market, with a large patio and a fine sea view.
9.3104123.307421 Poppy Coffee and Cupcakes (corner of Silliman and Hibbard, facing Hibbard). In a Silliman University building called Portal West which also has a bank, Scooby's, and several other shops. They also have sandwiches and a breakfast menu.
9.3101123.30722 Harbour City Dim Sum (Silliman Avenue, across from Portal West). Many types of dim sum, plus various soups and rice or noodle dishes. ₱40-90 per dish.

Along Santa Catalina:

9.3095123.308923 Cafe Antonio, Santa Catalina (2nd floor, Spanish Heritage Building, entrance on Santa C). Fantastic wide-ranging menu, very reasonable prices, lovely chilled out studenty vibe and a great building to host it. Quite honestly a breath of fresh air in the Philippines. Wonderful coffee too!
9.30865123.3088324 Mediterranean Food. 9AM-10PM. Good Turkish kebabs and donair. They have distinctly unexciting hamburgs for ₱30. most dishes ₱80-140. (updated Dec 2017)
9.30837123.3088425 Mifune, Santa Catalina, ☏ +63 35 422-8307, mifunedumaguete@gmail.com. Japanese restaurant. All-you-can eat buffet ₱333, Tu & Sa evenings.
9.3072123.30926 MELs Cafe, 2nd Floor UTH Bldg, Sta Catalina St., near Cnr Locsin St, ☏ +63 917 835-8337. This place serves and advocates healthy food, has a certified nutritionist supervising the food. It is small and a bit difficult to find, but worth the trouble. Serves great four season themed salads, a variety of scrumptious sandwiches and unique rice meals like CoFFeeCHoP (pork chop marinated in coffee) or their cheesy delightful fish dish called 'cheesy dory' a favorite among the locals. You can also try their Butter beer in variety of flavors, including vanilla and banana. It is the only place in town that serves beer (non-alcoholic) to minors. ₱30-100.
9.3068123.308827 Pasta King, Santa Catalina, corner of Locsin, ☏ +63 35 421-0865. M-Sa 11AM-9PM, Su 4-9PM. Pizza and many pasta dishes, done very well. Pasta in two serving sizes, around ₱179 or 319. The small one will be enough for most people, perhaps with a soup or salad if you are quite hungry. (updated May 2016)
9.3045123.308728 Roti Boss, Santa Catalina (near southeast corner of the park). Indian and Malay food. Small, no a/c, a limited menu, and rather slow service. It is well worth putting up with these minor annoyances, though, since the food is good and prices moderate. ₱50-150.

Elsewhere downtown:

9.3097123.308929 Halang Halang (on San Juan, corner of Santa Catalina, behind Bo's Coffee). Excellent Sichuan food, authentic so much of it is very spicy.
9.3119123.308330 Fish153 (on street running inland from ferry terminal). Korean restaurant and grocery store. Neighborhood has a few other restaurants and some guesthouses.
9.31123.3063431 Panda Ice Cream House, Ma. Cristina St, ☏ +63 35 225-9644. Locally-produced fresh fruit ice cream. Try the fried ice cream! This is a chain with several locations in Dumaguete and a few in nearby towns.

Perdices Street has several chain restaurants; Jollibee's and McDonald's each have two, while Dunkin Donuts, Chow King, Greenwich Pizza and Mang Inasal (Filipino BBQ chicken) each have one. Fruit is available in the supermarkets, from fruit shops, or from street vendors. There are many bakeries; Lee Plaza has two (one listed at #Budget and another on the ground floor), Robinson's has one, and there are several more along the street.

South of the center

There are also some restaurants south of downtown either on Jose Romero (the road that goes west to Valencia) or on the highway south toward Bacong. Many of these are popular with local expats.

9.3009123.29932 Flip-Flops Restobar, Jose Romero Road (a bit east of Lee Hypermart). Large shaded patio, big TV with sports, live band Thursday, Friday, Saturday. Open mic on Tuesdays, acoustic performances or karaoke other nights.
9.2928123.298233 Happy Jack's Restobar, Banilad Barangay (1.5 km south of Robinsons Mall), ☏ +63 920 458 1625, happyjacksbar@yahoo.com.ph. 11AM-10PM. Restobar serving cold drinks and both Asian and Western food. Full meals plus a mix and match bar snack menu. Billiard and poker tables plus live music on a couple of nights. (updated Feb 2016)
9.2592123.294834 ^{[dead link]} Katz Restobar, ☏ +63 905 343 6231. 7:30AM-9PM. Pool table, darts, sometimes live music.
9.2725123.292435 Octagon Sports Bar (South Highway, Bacong), ☏ +63 35 424 8356. Big-screen TV mostly showing sports. Live music and ₱250 all-you-can-eat BBQ on weekend evenings.
Pastry Dream, Colon Street, Brgy. Bagacay (Beside Hypermart), ☏ +63 9455471018. 9am-7pm. Offers wide a variety of European pastry, like eclairs, fruit tarts and French macarons. They also have refreshments and coffee.

9.2636123.292936 Senorita's Mexican Grill (South Highway, Bacong), ☏ +63 905 382 1325. Tex-Mex food, done well.

Lobos Sports Bar is located on the Diversion Road near the intersection with the Western Nautical Highway. Showing sports from around the world with ice cold beer and great food. 2 billiards tables, 3 dart boards, 1 shuffle board, and 1 set of corn hole. The waitresses and staff are friendly and they are ready to serve.

Robinson's mall has many chain restaurants including Shakey's Pizza, Jollibee, Mister Donut, Krispy Kreme, Mang Inasal and KFC inside the mall. A courtyard at the east of the mall has several more, including Bo's Coffee and Mooon Cafe. A food court at the north end of the second floor has many places, mostly with Filipino food.

North of the center

The area Where EJ Blanco reaches the coast north of town is developing rapidly. Flores Avenue along the coast has been widened, there is a large upmarket condo/mall project (#Marina Spatial) at the Flores/EJ Blanco intersection, and there are many restaurants in the area:

9.3206123.312237 Hayahay Bar, Flores Ave (Escao Beach), ☏ +63 35 225 3536. Large and popular. Often has live music, reggae every Wednesday. There are several separate places selling food within the complex; one has good pizza and another offers fine Jamaican food.
There is a small stand with Filipino-style barbecue chicken between Hayahay and Lantaw.
9.3213123.312338 Lantaw (Corner of Flores and EJ Blanco). A large place with upmarket Filipino food, much of it seafood. Popular with prosperous locals and with seafood-loving foreigners. Possibly the best place in town to take a Filipina out to dinner; she will probably both like the food and be impressed by the decor.
9.3213123.311939 Cafe Racer, E J Blanco Road (next to Lantaw). A diner in the style of mid-20th century America. Decor includes some old cars and a gorgeous motorcycle; the bar is built inside an old VW van. Menu to match; decent burgers, small but excellent milkshakes, etc. Live music sometimes.

Families with kids may appreciate either Racer or Lantaw. Between the two is a small playground with swings, slides and a grassy area to run around on; kids can reach it without either going on a road or being out of the parents' sight.

Low & Slow, EJ Blanco (just west of Racer). A fairly large place with nice decor, offering both American and Filipino styles of barbecue. Prices are reasonable. BBQ is good, burgers decent but nothing special. Margueritas are awful; have a milkshake or ₱50 beer.

Elsewhere north of downtown are:

9.321123.306940 Tarbush (corner of EJ Blanco & Hibbard). Two Lebanese brothers running a small place for middle eastern food. Good shawarma & juices.
9.3238123.311741 Cafe Mafioso (Plaza Escano, along the beach north of EJ Blanco). Another Italian place, good quality and cheaper than most of the others, with pasta dishes around ₱140.

Valencia

Valencia has a market near the center of town with bakeries, fruit vendors, several restaurants with Filipino food, and two pizza places. On Sundays many additional vendors appear; along the north side of the market is (mostly used) clothing at good prices, while to the west is a park with vendors of interesting food including European sausage-in-a-bun and good cheap (₱10 for a small loaf) French bread. Delicious Spanish Omelettes and Croquetas and a fantastic Greek Yoghurt are also available around the kiosk area of the Sunday Market.

On the streets on the south and west sides of the market are many restaurants, including some that are quite popular with the town's large expatriate community:

9.2811123.244242 Ayla's Breakfast Restaurant (Red tables) (west of market). A good variety of breakfast dishes, including some less common ones like eggs benedict or biscuits & gravy, plus a few other things like chile con carne. They rent the space from the municipality which sets limits on their prices, so they have the cheapest beer in the region at ₱40. (updated Mar 2020)
Pacos (right next to Ayla's). A tiny stand with a few tables and good Mexican food, owned by Americans. Ayla's will not complain if you sit at one of their tables and buy beer from them but get food from Paco's. (updated Mar 2020)
9.2805123.244743 La Cocina by Beth (south of market, above 7-Eleven), ☏ +63 961 589 1830. closed on Monday. Run by a Filipino chef who trained in Mexico . If you like flavorful food, there are Mexican dishes. Cold drinks and margaritas, fresh lemonades, the only air conditioned restaurant in the town with a perfect view.

Splurge

Competition is stiff for restaurants in Dumaguete, and the restaurants listed above all have many moderately-priced items on their menus so we have listed them all as "Mid-range". If you want elegant decor and a menu that includes upmarket offerings, then your best bets are Casablanca, La Residencia Almar, or Lantaw.

Drink

Tourists and resident expatriates do much of their imbibing in the strip of restaurants and bars along Rizal Boulevard; those are listed under #Along the boulevard above. There are also a number of other restaurants, plus some discos and karaoke places, just inland from there.

Brahminy kites (*Haliastur indus intermedius*) are commonly seen hovering in the mountains behind Dumaguete, and occasionally over the sea downtown

Some bars outside that central region, but within a few minutes pedicab ride, are:

9.307123.30531 Gmik Bar, Dr V Locsin St (in Daro).
9.3227123.30732 Kamalig (E side of Hibbard, N of EJ Blanco). A large semi-outdoor (covered patio) place with live music, Filipino BBQ and some other food, and beverages.
9.3245123.31143 Tiki Bar. A large place with a patio and often live music.

When ordering a rum & coke in Dumaguete, a double usually costs less than a single; Philippine rum is cheaper than the mixer. Some places offer a triple for even less.

For those who enjoy karaoke, there is a KTV place above Mooon Cafe on Silliman Avenue, and another a few doors further west; these cater to a mainly student crowd. As anywhere in the country, there are also many "videoke" places scattered around town, generally loud, cheap, in low-rent neighborhoods, and catering to the working class. For tourists, one of these might be a good choice if you are out with Filipino friends, but otherwise probably not.

Unlike some places in the Philippines, Dumaguete does not have a flourishing sex trade. As anywhere on Earth, there is prostitution, but it is not nearly as blatant as in places like Angeles or Puerto Galera. There are some girlie bars outside Dumaguete city limits in Sibulan along the North Highway beyond the airport, but nothing so obvious in town.

Sleep

Dumaguete is a tourist town with a large number of hotels, not all listed here. Walk down almost any street near the center of town and you are bound to find several.