South Korea (Korean: 한국, 韓國 Hanguk), officially the Republic of Korea (대한민국, 大韓民國 Daehan Minguk), is a country in East Asia.

Known as the "Land of the Morning Calm", Korea has served as a cultural bridge between its neighbors, China and Japan, for a long time. South Korea has emerged from the shadows of its turbulent past and cemented its place as one of the world's major economic powers. South Korean pop culture has been enormously popular across East and Southeast Asia since the turn of the 21st century, and has become popular globally since the 2020s, driving higher levels of tourism to this nation.

Regions

South Korea is divided into nine provinces, as listed below. The largest cities are separate government areas, but Wikivoyage includes them in the most relevant province.

South Korea regions - Color-coded map

Gyeonggi Surrounding Seoul and covered in its urban sprawl, with the Korean Demilitarised Zone close by.

Gangwon Natural wonderland with the Seoraksan National Park, beaches and ski resorts.

North Chungcheong (also known as Chungbuk) A landlocked province filled with mountains and national parks.

South Chungcheong (also known as Chungnam) Central western part of the country. The flat areas are made up of rice paddies. Point where main train lines and highways converge and known for its hot springs.

North Gyeongsang Largest province and richest area for historical and cultural sites, such as Andong, Gyeongju and the islands of Ulleungdo.

South Gyeongsang Known for its gorgeous seaside cities and beaches where most Koreans take their summer holidays.

Jeonbuk (previously North Jeolla) Noted for great food.

Jeonnam (previously South Jeolla) Lots of beautiful small islands and landscapes, fantastic food (especially seafood along the coast) and good for fishing.

Jeju South Korea's honeymoon island, created by a volcano. Great scenery with wildflowers and horseback riding.

Cities

• 1 Seoul (서울) — the dynamic 600-year-old capital of South Korea, a fusion of the ancient and modern
• 2 Busan (부산, 釜山) — the second city and main beach destination
• 3 Chuncheon (춘천, 春川) — capital city of Gangwon province, surrounded by lakes and mountains and known for local dishes, dakgalbi and makguksu
• 4 Daegu (대구, 大邱) — a cosmopolitan city, rich with ancient traditions and sights
• 5 Daejeon (대전, 大田) — a large and dynamic metropolis in Chungnam province
• 6 Gwangju (광주, 光州) — the administrative and economic centre of the area, the largest city in the province
• 7 Gyeongju (경주, 慶州) — the ancient capital of the Silla Kingdom
• 8 Incheon (인천, 仁川) — second busiest port in the country, location of the country's largest international airport
• 9 Jeonju (전주, 全州) — once the spiritual capital of the Joseon Dynasty, now a leading center of the arts filled with museums, ancient Buddhist temples, and historical monuments

Other destinations

• 1 Seoraksan National Park (설악산국립공원) — spread out over four cities and counties, the country's most renowned national park and mountain range
• 2 Andong (안동시) — historically rich in Confucius traditions and home of living folk village
• 3 Ansan (안산시) — a city in Gyeonggi province on the coast of the Yellow Sea
• 4 Panmunjeom (판문점) — the only tourist site in the world where the Cold War is still reality
• 5 Yeosu (여수시) — one of the country's most picturesque port cities especially at night. Famous for its seafood and beaches, you can visit some of the islands in Hallyeo Ocean Park with cruise or watch sunset from its fabulous Dolsan Bridge or romantic cafes near marinas.
• 6 Jindo (진도) — commonly associated with the dog native to that area, the Jindo, every year people flock to the area to witness the parting of the sea and participate with the accompanying festivities
• 7 Ulleungdo (울릉도) — scenic remote island off the east coast of peninsula
• 8 Pyeongchang (평창군) — the host city of the 2018 Winter Olympics.

Understand

Capital	Seoul
Currency	won (KRW) Korean mun
Population	51.4 million (2017)
Electricity	220±13 volt / 60±0.2 hertz (Schuko, Europlug)
Country code	+82
Time zone	Korea Standard Time, UTC+09:00, Asia/Seoul
Emergencies	112 (police force), 119 (emergency medical services, fire department), 113 (counterintelligence)
Driving side	right
edit on Wikidata

Positioned on the southern portion of the Korean Peninsula, South Korea is a country of dazzling scenic landscapes and a mixed representation of centuries-old traditions and contemporary society. It boasts a recorded history extending more than 5,000 years.

History

Early history and founding of a nation

See also: Pre-modern Korea

Daegu and the mountain Palgongsan

Archeological finds of prehistoric toolmaking on the Korean Peninsula date back to 70,000 BC, and the first pottery is found around 8000 BC. Comb-pattern pottery culture peaked around 3500–2000 BC.

Legend has it that Korea began with the founding of Gojoseon (고조선, 古朝鮮, also called Ancient Chosun) by the legendary Dangun in 2333 BC. Archaeological and contemporaneous written records of Gojoseon as a kingdom date back to around 7th–4th century BC. The Chinese Han Dynasty eventually defeated Gojoseon, and its territories were governed as four commanderies. The political chaos following the fall of the Han Dynasty in China allowed native tribes to regain control of Korea and led to the emergence of the Three Kingdoms of Korea (삼국시대, 三國時代), namely Goguryeo (고구려, 高句麗), Silla (신라, 新羅) and Baekje (백제, 百濟). Despite repeated attempts by China, namely the Sui Dynasty and later the Tang Dynasty, to conquer the Korean Peninsula, northern-based Goguryeo managed to repel them. Eventually, Goguryeo fell to a Silla-Tang alliance, which had earlier defeated Baekje, and unified Korea under the Silla Dynasty. A later invasion by the Tang was repelled by Silla forces, thus maintaining Korea's independence. The remnants of Goguryeo would go on to found another kingdom known as Balhae (발해, 渤海) in what is now Northeast China, which would last until 926 AD when the Khitans conquered it.

Unified Silla was replaced by the Goryeo Dynasty (고려, 高麗, also called Koryo), from which the modern name "Korea" derives. One highlight of the Goryeo dynasty was that in 1234 the world's first metal movable type was invented by a Korean named Choe Yun-ui (200 years before Gutenberg's printing press). Goryeo was replaced by the Joseon Dynasty (조선, 朝鮮, also called Chosun), after a coup by one of its generals. The Joseon dynasty ruled Korea from 1392 to 1910, being one of the longest actively ruling dynasties in world history. During the early part of the Joseon dynasty, Korean technological inventions such as the world's first water clock, ironclad ship, and other innovations took place. During the rule of King Sejong the Great, the world's first rain gauge was invented, and the Korean alphabet, known as hangul, was created.

Japanese occupation and division

The light blue conference rooms at the Joint Security Area of Panmunjeom

Korea was invaded by the Japanese, led by Toyotomi Hideyoshi in the late 16th century, who was eventually defeated by an alliance between the Joseon dynasty and China's Ming dynasty. This defeat and the untimely death of Hideyoshi forced the Japanese to pull out of Korea.

Later, Korea's status as an independent kingdom under the Chinese sphere of cultural influence (사대 sadae) ended in 1895 after China's defeat in the Sino-Japanese War and the signing of the Treaty of Shimonoseki. Under the treaty's terms, China recognized the severing of the several centuries-old, nominal elder-younger brother relationship between China and Korea, bringing Japan the window of opportunity to force Korea into its growing sphere of influence. Although the elder-younger brother relationship between China and Joseon was a voluntary diplomatic formality assumed by Joseon's rulers to receive the benefits of advanced Chinese culture and trade, it was a symbolic victory for Japan to achieve the breakage of this link. It put Japan in a position to take possession of Korea without fear of Chinese intervention. In 1910, Imperial Japan annexed Korea, thus beginning a 35-year occupation of the country. Despite armed rebellions and intellectual and cultural resistance by the Koreans, Japan maintained control of the peninsula and gradually advanced a cultural assimilation policy. During the occupation, many Korean women were forced to serve as "comfort women" in Japanese military brothels, which continues to be a major bone of contention in diplomatic relations between Japan and South Korea.

After Imperial Japan's defeat in World War II, Soviet forces occupied the northern half of Korea while U.S. forces occupied the southern half. North and South Korea each declared independence as separate states in 1948. Kim Il-Sung established a communist regime with the support of the Soviet Union in the north, and Syngman Rhee established a capitalist regime with the support of the United States in the south. After antagonism from both sides, North Korea invaded South Korea in 1950, starting the Korean War which destroyed much of the country. The U.S. and other U.N. forces intervened on South Korea's side, while the Soviet Union and China supported the North. An armistice was signed in 1953, splitting the peninsula along a demilitarized zone after the war had reached a stalemate with no significant territorial gains made by either side. However, as no peace treaty has ever been signed, the two Koreas officially remain at war, although without any ongoing combat.

Republic of Korea

Despite initially being economically outperformed by its northern rival, South Korea eventually emerged from the ashes of the Korean War. It achieved rapid economic growth starting in the 1960s under the iron-fisted rule of President Park Chung-hee. After Park was assassinated in 1979, a coup lead by Chun Doo-hwan established another military dictatorship in 1980 and suppressed democratic movements at that time, perhaps one of the most notorious event is the Gwangju massacre that caused at least 200 deaths among protesters.

As one of the East Asian Tigers, the South Korean economy's industrialization and modernization efforts gained traction in the 1980s and 1990s. Per capita income rose to 20 times that of North Korea. In 1996, South Korea joined the OECD. Today, South Korea is an industrialized and developed economy with some of the world's leading high technology corporations, such as Samsung and LG.

Demands for greater freedom of speech and human rights led to nationwide demonstrations that led to democratic elections in 1987, just prior to the South Korean capital of Seoul hosting the 1988 Summer Olympic Games.

South Korea is now a liberal democracy and an economic powerhouse. The peace process with the North is still underway at a glacial pace, with little sign that the status quo will change anytime soon. In 2012 the country elected its first female president, Park Geun-hye. However, she was dramatically ejected from power in 2017 and subsequently convicted of corruption and abuse of power after widespread demonstrations over corruption that involved personal connections and Korea's largest corporations.

The cultural phenomenon is known as the Korean Wave (한류 hallyu) has swept most of Asia and many other parts of the world as South Korean film, television, music, food, and other aspects of culture have become popular. In 2012 Psy's Korean-language song "Gangnam Style" topped the charts in many Western countries.

People

Namdaemun Gate, Seoul

South Korea is a very homogeneous country, with over 95% of the population identifying themselves as ethnically Korean and speaking the Korean language. However, the demographics are changing, with immigrants having passed the one million mark for the first time in history. The largest minority are the Chinese, numbering around 440,000, though the majority of them are Chinese citizens of Korean ethnicity. There is a smaller community of local-born Han Chinese residents numbering just over 26,000, mostly descended from early 20th-century immigrants from Shandong, known as Hwagyo (화교) in Korean. There are also workers from Mongolia, Bangladesh, Southeast Asia, and other parts of the world. A community of 20,000 English teachers from anglophone nations are spread out throughout the country. A long-standing 30,000 American military personnel are stationed here. South Korea's large and growing economy has attracted people from all over the world. Seoul's leading financial center has brought many financial workers from North America, Europe, and Japan. Rural areas have seen farmers seek out wives from other countries such as China, Vietnam, and the Philippines to address the general shortage of Korean women in the countryside, and these communities can be seen in even the smallest towns nowadays.

South Korea has the world's lowest birth rates of only 0.7 children per woman (as of 2023), and with it a rapidly aging and declining population. How the country will deal with this demographic problem is unclear, with little change to policies to address the general resistance to immigration, traditional expectations that women give up their careers after motherhood, increasing costs of housing and living as well as the very high effort of raising even one child in the ultra-competitive education system. If trends continue then South Korea's population will fall by 50% as soon as 2100.

Government and politics

South Korea today is a full, vibrant and relatively stable democracy, with executive, judicial, and legislative branches of government. Technically a democracy since establishment in 1948, the country nevertheless experienced political repression, military coups and effective dictatorships. The sixth republic was declared in 1987 and stable democratic government has been experienced ever since.

The president is the head of state and is elected for just one five-year term. Party composition and naming changes frequently in South Korean politics, although conservative, liberal, and progressive platforms are usually represented. In general, left-wing parties tend to support reconciliation and more cooperation with North Korea, while right-wing parties tend to support closer ties with the United States and Japan, whilst taking a tougher stance against North Korea.

Although the military remains a powerful force in Korean politics (not surprising given that Japan, China, and North Korea surround the country), it is widely considered that another military coup is very unlikely.

Culture

Decoration of a royal palace, Changdeokgung, Seoul

Having been in the cultural sphere of China for much of its history, substantial Chinese influences are evident in traditional Korean culture. Nevertheless, many fundamental differences remain, and Korea has retained a distinct cultural identity from its larger neighbor. Koreans are fiercely proud of their heritage and their resistance to outside domination.

During the Joseon dynasty, Korea's dominant philosophy was a strict form of Confucianism, perhaps even more stringent than the Chinese original. People were separated into a rigid hierarchy, with the king at the apex, an elite of officials and warriors and a small group of nobility (양반 yangban) below him, a middle class of petty civil servants (중인 chungin) below them, and then a vast population of commoners (상민 sangmin) at the bottom. The educated were superior to the uneducated, women served men, and everybody stuck to a defined role or faced severe consequences. Korea adopted its version of the imperial examination system invented by and used in China to select officials, creating somewhat of a premodern meritocracy for the government like its Chinese counterpart, though, unlike the Chinese version, the Korean version was largely restricted to the yangban and chungin classes. Buddhism was suppressed mainly due to the widespread corruption and greed of monks and temples during the waning stages of the Goryeo dynasty. While the Joseon dynasty ceased to exist in 1910, its legacy lives on in Korean culture: education and hard work are valued above all else, employees are expected to be unquestioningly obedient to their bosses, and women still struggle for equal treatment.

Koreans believe that the things that set them the most apart from other Asian cultures are their cuisine, language, and Hangul script. Outsiders will note their extreme modernity, tempered by a well-developed artistic and architectural joyfulness. Nothing goes undecorated if it can be helped, and they have a knack for stylish interior design. South Korea also has a vibrant film and TV industry, and the country is one of only a few in the world where local films have a larger market share than Hollywood films.

South Koreans firmly hold on to many ancient traditions that go back thousands of years, yet paradoxically, they are often obsessed with the latest technology. Consumer devices with amazing advanced technology developed in Korea are often several years ahead of the rest of the world.

South Korea has a significant number of Christians (18% Protestants, 11% Roman Catholic) and Buddhists (23% practicing, 47% non-practicing), and churches can be found in the towns and temples, and monasteries on hills. Over a third of the country professes to follow no particular organized religion. However, most people (including Christians) are still strongly influenced by traditional Korean Buddhist and Confucian philosophies that seeped into the Korean cultural background. Islam and several religions of Korean origin also have a few followers in parts of the country.

The game of Go, called baduk in Korean, is a traditional pastime and some of the world's strongest players are Korean.

Holidays

Lunar New Year dates The year of the Dragon began on 4 Feb 2024 at 16:25, and the Lunar New Year was on 10 Feb 2024 The year of the Snake will begin on 3 Feb 2025 at 22:10, and the Lunar New Year will be on 29 January 2025 The year of the Horse will begin on 4 Feb 2026 at 4:02, and the Lunar New Year will be on 17 Feb 2026 Contrary to popular belief, the change of the zodiac does not occur on the first day of the Lunar New Year, but instead occurs on Li Chun (立春 lì chūn), the traditional Chinese start of spring.

Korea's traditional holidays mostly follow the lunar calendar and therefore fall on different days each year from the perspective of the Western Gregorian calendar. The two biggest, Lunar New Year and Chuseok, are family holidays where everybody returns to their hometowns en masse and all forms of transport are absolutely packed. It is worth planning your itinerary around these dates, as well as realizing that your best eating options may be noodle packets from a 7-Eleven! On the other holidays, you will not notice too much difference, however, all banks and government offices will be closed.

On Buddha's birthday temples are decorated by colored lanterns

• New Year's Day (신정 Sinjeong) — January 1
• Lunar New Year (설날 Seollal, also known as "Korean New Year" or 구정 Gujeong) — 1st day of 1st lunar month (January–February) — Families gather together, eat traditional foods, especially tteokguk (떡국), and perform an ancestral service. The public holiday lasts for three days, which includes the eve and second day. Many shops and restaurants close for three days, so it is not ideal for visiting.
• Independence Movement Day (삼일절 or 3·1절 Samiljeol, lit. "3-1 Day") — March 1 — In commemoration of the March 1st resistance movement against the invading Japanese Imperial Army in 1919.
• Children's Day (어린이날 Eorininal) — 5 May — It is a celebration of the value of children's personality and the pursuit of their happiness.
• Buddha's Birthday (부처님 오신 날 Bucheonnim Osin Nal or 사월 초파일 Sawol Chopail) — 8th day of the 4th lunar month (April–May) —A legal holiday in South Korea commemorating the birth of Shakyamuni Buddha(석가모니).
• Memorial Day (현충일 Hyeonchung-il) — June 6 — Commemorates Koreans who gave their lives to the nation.
• Constitution Day (제헌절 Jeheonjeol) — July 17 — National Day of the Republic of Korea, commemorating the enactment and promulgation of the Constitution of the Republic of Korea (Constitution) on 17 July 1948.
• Liberation Day (광복절 Gwangbokjeol) — August 15 — This day is actually the end of World War II with the official Japanese surrender to the Allied forces, which also meant Korea gaining independence after many decades of Japanese colonialism.
• Chuseok (추석, often translated as "Korean Thanksgiving") — 15th day of 8th lunar month (September–October) — Koreans celebrate by eating traditional foods, notably a rice cake called songpyeon (송편) and playing folk games. The public holiday lasts for 3 days and much like Lunar New Year, everything shuts down which makes visiting rather boring.
• National Foundation Day (개천절 Gaecheonjeol) — October 3 — The holiday's name means "day of the open sky," hence the name. In celebration of the first formation of the nation of ancient Korea.
• Hangul Day (한글날 Hangeulnal) — October 9 — Anniversary for the Korean alphabet
• Christmas (크리스마스 Keuriseumaseu, 기독탄신일 Gidoktansinil, or 성탄절 Seongtanjeol) — December 25 — A full public holiday mostly celebrated by young couples spending a romantic day together. Although about 30% of the country is Christian, there is very little public religious celebration in the media or on the streets.

Climate

South Korea
Climate chart (explanation)
J F M A M J J A S O N D       22     2 −6       24     4 −4       46     10 1       77     18 7       102     23 13       133     27 18       328     29 22       348     30 22       138     26 17       49     20 10       53     12 3       25     4 −3 Average max. and min. temperatures in °C Precipitation+Snow totals in mm Data for Seoul. South Korea tends to have a humid continental climate and a humid subtropical climate, and is affected by the East Asian monsoon.
Imperial conversion J F M A M J J A S O N D       0.9     35 21       0.9     39 25       1.8     50 34       3     64 45       4     73 55       5.2     80 64       13     84 71       14     85 72       5.4     78 62       1.9     67 50       2.1     53 37       1     40 26 Average max. and min. temperatures in °F Precipitation+Snow totals in inches

• Spring is an excellent time of year to be in Korea. The temperatures are warm, but not hot, and there's not too much rain either. However, spring is also when yellow dust storms blow over from China, making the air horrible to breathe. However, in May, temperatures are often closer to summer than spring.
• Summer starts with a dreary rainy season (장마철 jangma-cheol) in June and turns into a steambath in July-August, with extreme humidity and the temperature heading as high as 35 °C. Best avoided unless heading to the beaches.
• Autumn, starting in September, is perhaps the best time to be in Korea. Temperatures and humidity become more tolerable, fair days are common and the justly renowned fall colors make their appearance.
• Winter is a good time to go skiing or hot-spring hopping, and the Korean invention of ondol (온돌, floor heating) helps defrost any parts that froze outside. However, January and February can be bone-biting cold due to Siberian winds from the north. The south of the country (including Busan and Jeju) are relatively mild compared to the north (Seoul) during this season.

Electricity

Power plug and socket used in South Korea

South Korean households and hotels use the same dual round sockets for their electrical outlets as most of Continental Europe. Some hotels may provide an adapter for you to use; ask for one at the reception desk.

South Korean electrical outlets accept appliances with a voltage rating of 220 V at 60 Hz. If your appliance has this rating that includes 220 V (Such as 100-240 V that most laptop chargers now accept), you will be able to use the appliance with only a plug adapter. If it falls below or above this rating, you must purchase a transformer or a voltage adapter before leaving your country.

Some very old buildings and very new hotels and apartments are dual wired and have 110 V outlets (identifiable by the smaller dual flat sockets) and the regular South Korean variety, built specifically to accommodate the Japanese and Americans.

Read

A long and complicated relationship between the Western world and the South Korean nation has led to a plethora of literature on the country.

Books focused on Korean history:

• Battle for Korea: The Associated Press History of the Korean Conflict by Robert J. Dvorchak (1993) — Great journalistic photography accompanied by short descriptive narratives
• Korea Old and New: A History by Carter Eckert and Lee Ki-Baik (1991) — Simply stated writing, good overview of Korea's history
• Korea Witness: 135 Years of War, Crisis and New in the Land of the Morning Calm by Donald Kirk and Choe Sang Hun (2006) — Compilation of articles from foreign correspondents starting from 1871, notably from Jack London, a war correspondent from 1903–'04
• True Stories of the Korean Comfort Women by Keith Howard (1996) — Unflinching look at the atrocities committed during the Imperial Japanese occupation period

Books about Korean culture:

• The Koreans: Who They Are, What They Want, Where Their Future Lies by Michael Breen (1999) — Anecdotal accounts and insights of a British journalist on the country he spends half the year in; informative and entertaining
• Social Change in Korea published by Jimoondang (2008) — Compilation of articles written by academic experts on Korea
• The Discovery of Korea: History-Nature-Cultural Heritages-Art-Tradition-Cities by Yoo Myeong-jong (2005) — Amazing scenic views on Korea

Watch

South Korea has a substantial film industry, considering the size of the country. Many films can give you a good background to the country, and almost all DVDs will have good English subtitles.

The list below could include hundreds of films. However, the selection below will give you a good taste.

• Taegukgi: The Brotherhood of War (태극기 휘날리며) — A story of two brothers serving as soldiers during the Korean War.
• Joint Security Area (공동경비구역) — A rather haunting movie about soldiers on opposite sides of the Demilitarized Zone who strike up a tenuous friendship.
• May 18 (화려한 휴가) — Until 1987, South Korea was effectively a military dictatorship. This film is a historical drama set during the infamous Gwangju massacre when military dictator Chun Doo-hwan ordered the shooting of protesters in that city.
• 5th Republic (제5공화국) — Another history TV drama covering Chun Doo-hwan's rise to power and administration. The drama portrays historical figures at that time well, and some scenes and quotes have since became memetic in neighbouring countries.
• Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter... and Spring — A film set completely at an isolated lake in the mountains, which shows each season as a stage in the lives of a Buddhist monk and his adopted boy.
• Secret Sunshine (밀양) — A contemporary film about the nature of forgiveness set in the country town of Miryang.
• My Sassy Girl (엽기적인 그녀) — Romantic comedy that is often seen as a quintessential Korean movie experience, and especially well regarded by people from other Asian countries.
• The Host (괴물) — Monster horror film around the lives of a family in Seoul. A lot of footage of the Han river that flows through the middle of the city.
• Parasite (기생충) — Multi-award winning film tackling themes of class in Korea.
• Roaring Currents (명량) — It is based on the naval battle of Myeongnyang, which took place at the beginning of the Korean War against Japan.
• International Markets (국제시장) — The movie depicts a generation fleeing the Korean War and trying to make ends meet.
• To Busan (부산행) — A zombie movie from South Korea. Unlike conventional zombie movies, the zombies run around and move very fast.
• Snowy Train (설국열차) — It's an old favorite of director Bong Joon-ho, who made Parasite. Set on a train, it shows a very fresh and unconventional sense of class and direction.
• Assassination (암살) — Set in 1933 during the Japanese occupation of Korea, it shows the oppression of the country and the independence fighters who resisted it.

Visitor information

• Visit South Korea website

Talk

Handwritten hangul in an advertisement

See also: Korean phrasebook

South Koreans speak Korean, and knowing a few words of this will come in very handy. The language is rather drastically different from any Western language in its grammar, and pronunciation is rather difficult for the English speaker to get right (though not tonal). Depending on which part of the country you go to, different dialects are spoken, though standard Korean, which is based on the Seoul dialect, is understood and spoken by almost everyone. Most notably among the dialects, the Gyeongsang dialect spoken around Busan and Daegu is considered to be rather rough and aggressive compared to standard Korean, and the Jeju dialect spoken on Jeju Island is known for being almost incomprehensible to speakers of standard Korean.

Differences between North and South Korean Despite over 70 years of separation, the Korean language in both North Korea and South Korea is fundamentally the same. The main differences are the large number of English words that South Koreans have borrowed, whereas North Korean uses indigenous or Russian derived words instead. Descriptions of political and social structures are also entirely different as a direct result of the different ideological directions of both countries.

The Korean writing system is deceptively simple. Although it looks at first glance to be as complex as Chinese or Japanese, it is a unique and simple alphabetic writing system called hangul (한글 hangeul) where letters are stacked up into blocks that represent syllables. It was designed by a committee and look like simple lines, boxes, and little circles, but it is remarkably consistent, logical, and quick to pick up. A royal document from 1446 describing hangul said that "A wise man can acquaint himself with them before the morning is over; a stupid man can learn them in the space of ten days."

Learning to read hangul before you arrive in Korea will make traveling easier, as many signs and menus are written in hangul only. Furthermore, the Korean words for many common products are often English loan words, but will be written in hangul, such as 주스 (juseu, "juice") or 컴퓨터 (keompyuteo, "computer"). If you can read hangul, you'll find surviving in Korea surprisingly easy.

Korean words can sometimes be written with much more complex Chinese characters, known as hanja (한자, 漢字) in Korean; these were largely abolished since the late 1960s, but occasionally appear in restaurant menus, signs and advertising as an aesthetic choice, and a few basic characters are still widely understood. Nowadays, hanja are mainly used for disambiguation if the meaning is ambiguous when written in hangul; in such instances, the hanja is usually written in parentheses next to the hangul. Hanja is also used to mark Korean chess pieces, country names in some newspaper headlines, and personal names in some legal documents.

The transliteration of Korean words in Roman letters can be quite inconsistent, and adjacent signs for the same place such as Gwangalli and Kwanganri are common. In 2000, the government standardized the Revised Romanization system also used in Wikivoyage, but you will frequently encounter older McCune–Reischauer spellings and just plain weird spellings. Notably, words beginning with g, d, b, j may be spelled with k, t, p, ch instead, and the vowels eo and eu may be spelled o and u. The letters l, r and n also get swapped often, and the vowels i and u are sometimes written as ee and oo respectively. In foreign words imported into Korean, f turns into p, so a cup of keopi ("coffee") or a round of golpeu ("golf").

Most South Koreans will have learned some level of English at school, and many younger adults can work with the basics. Increased tourism from around East Asia means that basic English is the common way to communicate in shops and restaurants. However, it less common to find locals conversant in English, and you may have difficulty with advanced queries even in hotels and airports. Generally reading and writing comes much easier.

A typical experience for Western travelers in South Korea is to be approached by children interested in practicing their English skills. They will often take a picture of you for their school class as proof that they really talked to you.

Older folks may also still speak some Japanese. The city of Busan, being a short trip from Fukuoka in Japan, has more Japanese speakers per capita, and the dialect in Busan is more similar to Japanese in the same way that the Japanese dialect in Fukuoka also has a large Korean influence. However, many Koreans (especially older ones) still resent the Japanese for the atrocities committed during the occupation, so always try to address a Korean in English before Japanese. Thanks to the Korean Wave (hallyu) of Korean pop music and soap operas throughout East Asia, many shopkeepers in touristy areas speak some Japanese, Mandarin, or Cantonese.

Korean Sign Language (한국 수화 언어 Hanguk Suhwa Eoneo, or just 수화 suhwa, "signing") is an official language of South Korea since 2016, equal in status with spoken Korean. It is mutually intelligible with Japanese and Taiwanese Sign Languages, but not with Chinese Sign Language, Auslan, American Sign Language, or others.

Get in

	Note: Do not bring North Korean biographies, books, stamps, postcards, or anything with North Korean propaganda into South Korea. They will be confiscated on sight and you may be fined or jailed.
	(Information last updated 31 Dec 2023)

Prior to travel, eligible travelers must apply for a K-ETA or visa and must register their travel information and health status using South Korea's Q-CODE system.

For more information on entry regulations, see the Korea Tourism Organization's Travel Safety Website.

Visa policy of South Korea

  South Korea

  Visa-free - 180 days

  Visa-free - 90 days

  Visa-free - 60 days

  Visa-free - 30 days

  Visa required

Entry requirements

K-ETA During Visit Korea Year (2023-2024) In Celebration of Visit Korea Year which is ongoing until December 31, 2024, Citizens of 22 countries (Australia, Austria, Belgium, Canada, Denmark, Finland, France, Germany, Hong Kong, Italy, Japan, Macao, the Netherlands, New Zealand, Norway, Poland, Singapore, Spain, Sweden, Taiwan, the United Kingdom, and the United States (including Guam)) are exempt from applying for a K-ETA until the end of 2024. If you are a citizen of these countries, you can still apply for a K-ETA and which will valid until its expiration date. If you do not complete an K-ETA, you are required to submit an arrival card upon arrival.

• Citizens of Canada are allowed visa free entry for up to 180 days.
• Citizens of the European Union (except Cyprus, Portugal, and French territory of New Caledonia), Antigua and Barbuda, Australia, Bahamas, Barbados, Brazil, Chile, Colombia, Costa Rica, Dominica, Dominican Republic, Ecuador, Egypt, El Salvador, Grenada, Guatemala, Haiti, Hong Kong, Iceland, Israel, Jamaica, Japan, Liberia, Liechtenstein, Macau, Malaysia, Mexico, Morocco, New Zealand, Nicaragua, Norway, Panama, Peru, Saint Kitts and Nevis, Saint Lucia, Saint Vincent and the Grenadines, Serbia, Singapore, Suriname, Switzerland, Taiwan, Thailand, Turkey, the United States/American Samoa (Except Guam), Uruguay, and Venezuela can visit visa free for up to 90 days.
• Citizens from Lesotho, Portugal, and Russia can visit visa free for up to 60 days.
• Citizens of Albania, Andorra, Argentina, Bahrain, Bosnia and Herzegovina, Brunei, Cyprus, Eswatini, Fiji, Guam, Guyana, Honduras, Kazakhstan, Kiribati, Kuwait, the Marshall Islands, Mauritius, Monaco, Montenegro, F.S. Micronesia, Nauru, New Caledonia, Oman, Palau, Paraguay, Qatar, Samoa, San Marino, Saudi Arabia, Seychelles, South Africa, Tonga, Tunisia, Tuvalu, the United Arab Emirates, and Vatican City can stay visa free for up to 30 days.

Those arriving from a country or territory with visa-free arrangements must use the K-ETA electronic travel authorization system at least 72 hours before departure to South Korea. The electronic travel authorization costs ₩10,000 and is valid for two years.

Jeju is an autonomous island province where the K-ETA travel requirement is in place for visitors from visa-waiver nations. Besides the K-ETA, entry is permitted for everyone except citizens of Afghanistan, Bangladesh, Cameroon, Cuba, Egypt, Gambia, Ghana, Iran, Iraq, Kyrgyzstan, Kosovo, Myanmar, Nepal, Nigeria, North Macedonia, Palestine, Pakistan, Senegal, Somalia, Sri Lanka, Sudan, Syria, Uzbekistan, and Yemen for up to 30 days. If you enter Jeju without requiring a K-ETA and subsequently leave for the mainland, you will need to have a valid visa for the rest of South Korea.

South Korea is really good at keeping electronic track of everyone coming and going, so do not overstay your visa. Violations will likely result in you being banned from re-entering, and prosecution is a possibility.

Military personnel traveling under the U.S.–South Korea Status of Forces Agreement do not require a passport for entry, provided they hold a copy of their travel orders and a military ID. Their dependents, however, must have a passport and A-3 visa.

Most foreigners staying longer than 90 days must register with the authorities within 90 days of entry and obtain an Alien Registration Card. Contact local authorities for further information.

The Korean Immigration Service collects the biometric data (digital photos and fingerprints) of foreign visitors at ports of entry (international airports and seaports). Entry will be denied if any of these procedures is refused. Children under the age of 17 and foreign government and international organization officials and their accompanying immediate family members are exempt from this requirement.

By plane

South Korea has many international airports; however, only a few have scheduled services. South Korea has experienced an airport building frenzy over the last decade. Many large towns have dedicated functioning airports that handle only a handful of flights a week.

• Incheon International Airport (ICN ^IATA), about 1 hour west of Seoul, is the country's largest airport and is served by many international airlines. There are many options for flying there from locations throughout Asia, Europe, North America, and even routes to South America and Africa. It is also frequently rated as "the best run and best designed airport in the world". There are direct inter-city buses that travel from just outside the international arrival hall to many locations throughout South Korea. The airport has a metro line (express AREX 43 min and all-stop subway 56 min) that goes directly to both Seoul–Gimpo airport and Seoul Station.
• Seoul's Gimpo Airport (GMP ^IATA) offers domestic flights to most South Korean cities, and the international "city shuttle" services from Tokyo–Haneda, Beijing, Shanghai–Hongqiao and Taipei–Songshan are quite convenient. It is more centrally located to Seoul than Incheon. You can connect from Incheon airport either by train or by limousine bus.
• Busan's Gimhae International Airport (PUS ^IATA) has international connections from East and Southeast Asia, as well as Vladivostok, Guam, and Saipan. Gimhae also has a few flights a day directly to/from Seoul–Incheon, which is much more convenient than changing to Seoul–Gimpo airport after a long international flight. This service is intended for connecting passengers only and cannot be booked separately. The airport has a light rail line connecting Gimhae and West Busan.
• Jeju (CJU ^IATA) has flights from many South Korean cities and international flights from Kuala Lumpur and major Taiwanese, Japanese, and Chinese cities. The Seoul (Gimpo)—Jeju route is the busiest flight corridor in the world, and the island is well-served from other Korean airports.
• Airports at Daegu, Muan (close to Gwangju and Mokpo), Cheongju (close to Daejeon and Sejong), Yangyang also have international connections to major Japanese, Chinese, Taiwanese, and Vietnamese airports.

Flag carrier Korean Air (대한항공 Daehan Hanggong) and Asiana (아시아나 항공 Asiana Hanggong) are the principal full-service carriers from South Korea that fly around the world. Korean airlines' safety records have improved dramatically since the 1990s, and they are now just as safe as any Western airline. Several low-cost airlines offer domestic flights to Jeju from every airport in South Korea and international flights across Asia.

By train

Although there is a train track connecting the Korail network with North Korea and a (symbolic) Korail station on the border, there are no train services across to the North.

By boat

The services listed here may change frequently, and English language websites may not be updated with the current information. Verify before traveling.

The Beetle hydrofoil from Japan

Busan's International Passenger Terminal is the largest seaport in the country and offers ferry rides mostly to and from Japan. Two services run from Fukuoka to Busan, with the JR Beetle hydrofoil service managing the trip in just under three hours several times per day and the New Camelia in 5.5 hours daily. All other links are slower overnight ferries, such as Pukwan Ferry Company's services from Shimonoseki. A Busan–Osaka ferry is operated by Panstar Line Co., Ltd.. There are also multiple services from nearby Tsushima.

Incheon's International Ferry Terminal (연안부두 Yeonan Budu) has services from several cities in China, such as Weihai, Dandong, Qingdao and Tianjin. The largest operator is Jinchon, but Incheon Port has full listings on their website.

Pyeongtaek Port has several connections to cities in Shandong province, as well as cargo hopping options. There are multiple operators, but information is provided in the port authority's website.

Gunsan International Passenger Terminal has daily ferry connections from Shidao in Shandong province (Korean website).

There are also weekly departures from Vladivostok and Sakaiminato to Donghae operated by DBS Cruise Ferry Co.

By land

Due to the political and military situation with North Korea, entering South Korea overland is not possible. The border between North and South Korea is considered the most heavily fortified border in the world, and while some unauthorized crossings have occurred at the truce village of Panmunjeom, an attempt to cross the border anywhere would risk your life and the lives of soldiers on both sides.

If your North Korean tour includes a visit to Panmunjeom, you can briefly cross into South Korea within the confines of one of the conference rooms straddling the border. However, the southern door will guarded by a soldier, and you will not be allowed to proceed any further.

Get around

South Korea is fairly compact, and you can get almost anywhere very fast by train. Boats and planes can get you to Jeju - the Seoul-Jeju route being the busiest air route in the world. Subways are available in most of the cities, including metropolitan Seoul. Larger cities have service or are developing subways. Travel by bus or taxi is readily available, although bus services are more economical.

As South Korean national security laws mandate that navigation processing be done only on local servers, Google Maps does not give driving or walking directions in South Korea and can also be not up to date for some regions, lacking information on recent infrastructure changes such as bridges. It is advisable to install Naver Map and KakaoMap on your mobile phone for English language searching and directions. Unfortunately, the desktop web sites are in Korean only.

Smart cards

Seoul's public transportation smart card is known as T-money (티머니 Ti-meoni) card. This can be used on many local buses and subways throughout the country and some taxis. Fares and transfers up to 30 minutes are calculated automatically; tap on and tap off when riding on buses and trains. (In some buses in the countryside, you only need to tap on; watch locals to see what they do.) It even gives you a ₩100 discount on bus and subway rides, which is even more reason to use it. The card costs ₩4,000; it can be purchased at convenience stores displaying the T-money logo and at ticket vending machines in subway stations. You can get back your credit in cash afterward, less a ₩500 fee. Some retail shops may also accept payment by T-money. T-money is also usable on the public transportation systems in many other cities, so it is a good option for traveling around South Korea.

Other cities may have their own public transportation smart cards as well, such as Busan's Hanaro Card. Unlike T-money, these cards are often not usable outside their respective metropolitan areas, making them somewhat less useful for visitors unless you plan to only stay within that area.

By plane

Korean Air at Daegu airport

South Korea is a relatively small country with a fast and efficient train service, so flying is not the fastest way to get places unless you are going to the island of Jeju.

Nevertheless, plenty of airlines fly between the main cities at rates comparable to the KTX train. Most flights are with Korean Air or Asiana, however many new options exist with budget airlines such as T'way Air, Air Busan, Eastar Jet, Jin Air and Jeju Air (which despite the name also serves the busy Seoul–Gimpo to Busan route). Service is similar between full service and low-cost airlines on domestic flights; low-cost airlines offer free soft drinks and 15 kg of checked luggage.

By train

KTX train at Daejeon Station

Mugunghwa-ho

Main article: High-speed rail in South Korea

National train operator Korail (KR) connects major cities in South Korea. A large amount of money has been plowed into the network, and trains are now competitive with buses and planes on speed and price, with high safety standards and a good deal of comfort.

South Korea's flagship service is the high speed Korea Train eXpress (KTX) with services from Seoul to Busan, Yeosu, Mokpo, Masan, and Gangneung. The competing Super Rapid Train (SRT) also offers services on the core Seoul-Busan/Mokpo routes.

KTX and SRT trains use French TGV technology and Korean technology to travel at more than 300 km/h. The fastest non-stop trains travel between Busan and Seoul in just over two hours. There are vending machines on board that serve drinks and snacks and earphones, and cell phone chargers.

Seoul to Busan by train

Type	Time	Price
KTX First Class	2-2½ hr	₩83,700
KTX Standard	2-2½ hr	₩59,800
ITX-Saemaeul (express)	4 hr 45 min	₩42,600
Mugunghwa (semi-express)	5½ hr	₩28,600
All prices off-peak (M-Th), small surcharges apply for peak (F-Su)

Non-KTX trains are poetically ranked as ITX-Saemaeul (ITX-새마을, "New Village"), Mugunghwa (무궁화, "Rose of Sharon", which is the national flower of Korea) and Tonggeun (통근, "commuter"), corresponding roughly to express, semi-express and local commuter services. All ITX-Saemaeul and Mugunghwa trains can travel at up to 150 km/h. ITX-Saemaeul trains are a little pricier than buses, while Mugunghwa are about 30% cheaper. However, ITX-Saemaeul trains are incredibly comfortable, having seats comparable to business class seats on airplanes. Since the introduction of the KTX, there are much fewer ITX-Saemaeul and Mugunghwa services, but they are worth trying out. Tonggeun are cheapest of all, but long-distance, unairconditioned services have been phased out, and they're now limited to short regional commuter services in Gwangju.

Also, there is a ITX-Cheongchun service between Seoul and Chuncheon. It's a special version of ITX at that line.

Saemaeul and some Mugunghwa trains are equipped with power plugs on laptop seats.

Smoking is not permitted on any Korean trains or stations (including open platforms).

Tickets are much cheaper than in Japan but more expensive than other Asian countries — although the damage can be lowered by traveling on local trains rather than KTX. Buying tickets is fairly easy: self-service terminals accepting cash and credit cards are in multiple languages and are very simple to use. Station staff can usually speak basic English. Most stations are clean, modern, and have good signposting in Korean and English, and compared to China or Japan, Korea's rail system is very user-friendly.

Pre-booking any train tickets a day prior (be they KTX, ITX-Saemaeul, or Mugunghwa) is recommended for weekend trips, as all trains can be booked up for hours on end. On Sunday in particular, all but local trains may regularly be completely booked up. If you don't reserve tickets in advance when departing busy hubs such as Seoul or Busan, you may see your options reduced to "unallocated seating" on the slowest local trains (sitting on the floor in the un-air-conditioned space between carriages, or standing in the toilet for much of the trip). You are, however, free to sit on any seat that seems free until someone with the ticket to that seat shows up. If you are confident in your Korean, you can ask to reserve seats on available sections and travel standing up the rest of the way.

There are also tourist many trains that let you go to rural and scenic parts of Korea.

Seoul also has an extensive commuter train network that smoothly interoperates with the massive subway system, and Busan, Daejeon, Daegu, Gwangju and Incheon also have subway services.

Korail Pass

The Korail Pass is a rail pass only for non-resident foreigners staying less than six months in Korea, allowing unlimited travel for a set period on any Korail train (including KTX) and including free seat reservation. The pass is not valid for first-class or sleeping cars, but you can upgrade for half the price if you wish. The pass must be purchased at least five days before travel (preferably before arrival in Korea). It's not cheap as it needs a substantial amount of travel (e.g., Seoul–Busan round trip) to pay off and severe limitations on usage apply during Korean holidays and peak travel periods, including Lunar New Year and Chuseok. Prices as of May 2015 are for a 1-day pass ₩66,900, 3-day ₩93,100, 5-day ₩139,700, 7-day ₩168,400, and 10-day ₩194,400, with discounts for youth (age 13–25), students and groups.

Joint KR/JR Passes between Korea and Japan also exist, however, considering how much of a discount the JR Pass offers, and how strikingly little the KR Pass does by comparison, it usually makes sense to just get the JR Pass.

Rail cruises

Korail Tourism Development provides a rail cruise called Haerang, which enables the customers to travel to all the major sightseeing destinations in Korea with just one luxury train ride.

By bus

Express Bus

Interior of Udeung buses

Buses (버스 beoseu) remain the main mode of national transport, connecting all cities and towns. They're frequent, punctual, and fast, sometimes dangerously so, so fasten the belts you'll often find in the seats. Korean buses don’t have toilets, and rest stops are not standard on trips of less than 2 hours, so think twice about that bottle of tea at the terminal. Unlike trains, bus terminal staff and drivers are less likely to speak or understand English, and even signage is often only in Korean. Having your destination written down in hangul will be helpful.

There is a somewhat pointless division of long-distance buses into express buses (고속버스 gosok beoseu), which use toll expressways and are thus slightly faster but also more expensive, and intercity buses (시외버스 si-oe beoseu), which are a bit slower but go more places. Timetables, fares and tickets are available on their respective websites, which are Kobus and TxBus respectively. Whichever one you pick, you'll need to choose in advance, since in larger cities they depart from different terminals.

For additional comfort, look for udeung buses (우등 버스, glossed "Excellent" on the Kobus website) which have just three seats across instead of the usual four; these cost about 50% extra. However, some intercity buses use udeung buses without extra fares on highly competitive lines such as Seoul–Andong routes.

In addition, local inner-city bus (시내버스 si-nae beoseu) networks often connect directly neighboring cities, and Incheon Airport has its own dedicated network of airport limousine buses.

By boat

Ferry boats surround the peninsula and shuttle out to Korea's many islands. The main ports include Incheon, Mokpo, Pohang, and Busan. The most popular destinations are Jeju and Ulleungdo.

There is a daily service from Busan to Jeju. There are mostly undiscovered and scenic islands near Incheon that can seem almost deserted.

By car

An International Driving Permit (IDP) may be used to drive around South Korea. In general, road conditions are good in South Korea, and directional signs are in both Korean and English. Car rental rates start from ₩54,400/day for the smallest car with a week's rental. South Korea drives on the right in left-hand-drive cars. South Korea also follows the American practice of allowing cars to turn right at red lights as long as they (in theory) yield to pedestrians. In contrast, left turns on green lights are illegal unless there is a blue sign pointing left saying 비보호 or green left arrow.

If you are traveling in the big cities, especially Seoul or Busan, driving is not recommended as the roads often experience heavy traffic jams, and parking is expensive and difficult to find. Many drivers tend to get reckless under such conditions, weaving in and out of traffic. Drivers often try to speed past traffic lights when they are about to turn red, and several cars (including fully-loaded public transit buses) will typically run through lights after they have turned red, whether pedestrians are in the crosswalk or not.

Koreans consider driving rules as guidelines only and don't expect to be punished for parking illegally or cutting through a red light. This means that if you want to drive, you will need to do so assertively by pushing yourself into an intersection and forcing other cars to yield.

A GPS is highly recommended while navigating Seoul or Busan. Lanes end or turn into bus lanes with little to no warning, and it may not always be obvious where turns are allowed. A good rule of thumb is to stay in the middle lane as cars will often illegally park in the right lane while the left lane will become a turning lane with little warning. However, Google Maps and Apple Maps cannot be used for navigation in South Korea due to national security laws prohibiting the distribution of mapping data to other countries. You should use Naver Map or Kakao Map instead.

By taxi

Typical Korean Taxi

Taxis are convenient, if a somewhat pricey way of getting around the cities, and are sometimes the only practical way of reaching a place. Even in the major cities, you are extremely unlikely to get an English-speaking taxi driver, so it will be necessary to have the name of your destination written in Korean to show your taxi driver. Likewise, get your hotel's business card to show the taxi driver in case you get lost.

Although doing so is illegal, cab drivers, particularly the cheaper white cabs on busy Friday or Saturday nights, may deny service to short-distance fares. A very handy technique to counter this is to have your destination (hotel name, or the district (구 gu) and neighborhood (동 dong), in Korean of course) written in thick black ink on a large A4 sheet of paper and hold it to the traffic. Passing cab drivers responding to long-distance call outs, or with space in their cab in addition to an existing fare in that direction will often pick you up en route.

In particular, when hailing a cab, ensure you follow the local custom and wave it over with your hand extended but all your fingers extended downwards and beckoning as opposed to upwards in the Western fashion (this style is reserved for animals).

As of Nov 2023, it is illegal to refuse a short ride in a taxi, and it is also illegal to ride in a taxi while it is operating. By using apps such as Kakao Taxi, I.m Taxi, and uber, you can book a taxi without language difficulties and without worrying about being overcharged.

See

Tea fields in Boseong

Busan by night

A village man drinking tea in Hahoe Folk Village

Asian tourists have long discovered South Korea as a prime shopping, culinary and sightseeing destination. It is a relatively new travel destination for the Western world, but has gained popularity fast. And for good reason, as South Korea offers a most pleasant combination of ancient Asian features and all the amenities you would expect from a modern, high-tech nation. Despite its compact size, it boasts a broad range of fine attractions, and excellent infrastructure makes getting around easy.

• Seoul Most journeys begin in the nation's capital that never sleeps. This ancient place has seen centuries and wars come and go but seems to have come out stronger than ever. Popularly called the "Miracle on the Han River", it's one of the largest metropolitan economies in the world. It's the country's industrial epicenter, the birthplace of K-pop, a hotspot for South-Korean nightlife and fine dining and home to countless museums. The fabulous history and art collection of the National Museum of Korea (국립중앙박물관) reigns supreme and a visit there is a day well spent. The city has been rediscovering its historical treasures and improving city parks, adding to its charm. Downtown Seoul, where the old Joseon Dynasty city was, is where you'll find most of the palaces, Gyeongbokgung (경복궁), Changdeokgung (창덕궁) and Gwanghwamun (광화문). It is surrounded by a Fortress Wall, with the famous Namdaemun, one of the eight gates, being perhaps the main attraction. The Banpo bridge (반포대교) turns into beautiful colours at night, and the Yeouido Island (여의도), apart from the famous 63 Building has splendid parks for rollerblading/biking. Other sights are the Secret Garden (비원), Seodaemun (서대문), or the Seoul Tower (서울타워) accompanied by the famous Teddy Bear Museum. To get away from the buzz, follow the locals to Cheonggyecheon (청계천), one of the urban renewal projects and a popular public recreation space, or enjoy an afternoon tea in a traditional teahouse in Insadong.
• Busan is the country's second city and most significant port. Called the nation's summer capital, Koreans flock to this city's fine beaches, seafood restaurants and festivals. Haeundae beach (해운대) in Busan is the most famous in the country, with an atmosphere is comparable to southern France or California in the summer.
• Korean Demilitarized Zone (DMZ) On July 27th 1953, The Demilitarized Zone (DMZ) was established as a cease-fire agreement with a boundary area of 2km between North and South Koreas. Panmunjeom aka Joint Security Area (JSA) is the ‘truce village’ of the DMZ where tourists can view North and South Korea without much hostility. Here you can also enter one of the buildings that are located on the border aka Military Demarcation Line (MDL), which means you can actually cross into the North when entering those buildings. The border is indicated by a line where North and South Korean soldiers face each other coldly. The tour includes the nearby bridge of no return that used to be the main controlled crossing point between the countries. Also, the Third Tunnel of Aggression, created by North Korea (1.7 km long, 2 m high and about 73m below ground), was discovered in 1978. This tunnel is not more than an hour or 44 km away from Seoul.
• Bukhansan is just a stone's throw north of Seoul and one of the most visited national parks in the world. Some 836 meters high, Mount Bukhansan is a major landmark visible from large parts of the city and the park is home to the beautiful Bukhansanseong Fortress. The popular hike to get up there is well worth it, as you'll be rewarded with great views of the metropolis. The country has over 20 national parks, mostly mountainous such as Seoraksan National Park, but some also focus on marine and coastal nature. The lush green tea fields of Boseong offer an equally nice and peaceful get-a-way.
• Jeju Island If you don't mind the crowds, this volcanic and semi-tropical island offers a spectacular scenery and numerous natural sights, a relaxing and warm (especially in winter) atmosphere and plenty of activities. Don't miss the Lava tubes, Seongsan Ilchubong, Loveland, and South Korea's highest mountain Hallasan (1,950 m).
• Gochang, Hwasun and Ganghwa Dolmen Sites is a World Heritage and home to a significant part of all the dolmen in the world. Apart from the impressive megalithic stones, it has brought forward a highly important collection of archaeological finds.
• Gyeongju Once the nation's capital, it boasts numerous royal burial and World Heritage cultural sites, as well as relaxing resorts.
• Folk villages If you'd like to see a bit of Korean folklore, Hahoe Folk Village near Andong, Yangdong, the living museum-like Korean Folk Village in Yongin or Hanok Village in Jeonju are among the best.
• Festivals Korea is a country of festivals. No matter where you go, there's likely something happening close by. Watching or even joining in the bustling celebrations is often a fabulous and colorful experience. The Boryeong Mud Festival (보령머드축제) is a popular pick, when participants drench themselves in mud and take part in everything from mud wrestling to body painting. The nearby beach becomes something of a party apocalypse.
• National Treasures South Korea retains multiple state-owned intangible treasures, which make them popular tourist attractions.
• Coasts The coastline of South Korea dominates three seas, including both East and West. Its waters range from rugged beauty to subtropical beach resorts, including Busan.

Traditional arts

Korea was traditionally home to two types of theatre: talchum (탈춤) and pansori (판소리).

Talchum is a traditional type of dance performed by people wearing masks, often accompanied with singing. It originated in Hwanghae province in what is now North Korea, though it has since spread around the country. Traditional Hwanghae-style talchum is also performed in the South, often by North Korean refugees and their descendants.

Pansori is a type of musical storytelling involving a storyteller and a drummer, with the storyteller usually expected to use their voices and facial expressions for dramatic effect. Following contact with Western styles of drama, pansori evolved into changgeuk (창극) in the early 20th century, which is essentially Korean opera, with actors and an accompanying orchestra.

Gisaeng (기생) or kisaeng are the Korean equivalent of the Japanese geisha (or more accurately, courtesans known as oiran), and were historically sex workers trained in the arts of poetry, calligraphy and music, entertaining clients with their skills and conversation. While the tradition has largely died out in modern South Korea, gisaeng are often featured in Korean historical dramas, and many of their traditional arts are now being revived.

Do

Taekkyeon, one of Korea's older martial arts

For a definite list of activities refer to individual cities. However, some of the best ones are:

• Hiking With the country being covered in mountains, Korea is a fantastic destination with numerous hiking opportunities. Try Jirisan (지리산), Seoraksan (설악산) or go to South Korea's highest peak, the dormant volcano Hallasan on Jeju island. They offer great views, 1- to 3-day tracks, English sign posts/maps, huts (most of them heated), and can be organized easily. In autumn the leaves turn into beautiful colours, so the best seasons to go there are autumn and spring.
• Jjimjilbang Koreans love saunas! If you can get past everyone being naked, then this is an excellent way to feel refreshed after a hard day sightseeing. Even small towns will have one. They can also be used to stay overnight — this is especially convenient if you missed to make a reservation for an accommodation, everything is full or you are looking for a cheap accommodation. Weekends are extremely busy with families.
• Hot springs In common with their Japanese and Taiwanese neighbors, Koreans love their hot springs (온천, 溫泉 oncheon), and resorts can be found throughout the country. Etiquette usually require bathers to be nude. Many places also have saunas connected.
• Snowboarding/Skiing The Gangwon province offers ski decent opportunities in winter, which is very beautiful when it snows. See the Seoul guide for close to the city destinations, which you can reach by free public (ski) bus within 90 minutes.
• Eat Perhaps you have had Korean BBQ in your home country. The reality of Korean food is so much more diverse and tasty. Try something new delicious every each day! (Seafood, meat or vegetarian)
• Winter surfing Owing to local tidal conditions, the best surf is in the winter! Pohang and Busan are two places you can try this
• Karaoke/Singing Rooms Noraebang (노래방) is the same as Japanese Karaoke palors, popular and hard to miss wherever you go in metropolitan cities.
• Martial arts Learn martial arts such as the famous Taekwondo (태권도), Hapkido (합기도), and the dance-like martial art Taekkyeon (택견). You can also go and watch a competition or performance — for instance cultural festivals may feature traditional martial arts.
• Temple Stay Spend a few days meditating and learning about Buddhism at a Korean monastery.
• Water amusement parks are plentiful in the Gyeonggi and Gangwon provinces, such as Caribbean Bay in Yongin, Ocean World in Hongcheon, with a more Ancient Egyptian setting, and Ocean 700 in Pyeongchang. Tourists and locals usually go there in the summer.
• Yeondeunghoe is a traditional festival held during Buddha's birthday when the streets are hung with colorful lotus lanterns and can also involve celebratory parades.
• The board game Go, called baduk in Korean, is quite common and several of the world's top professional players are Korean.

Sports

Baseball was brought to Korea by American missionaries in 1904 and is the most popular sport in the country. Most cities have a team and the biggest are sponsored by the largest South Korean companies, and many South Korean players have become famous Major League Baseball players in the United States. The top baseball league in South Korea is the KBO League, featuring 10 teams from 8 cities. The South Korean national baseball team is also regarded as one of the strongest in the world, finishing second at the 2009 World Baseball Classic.

Soccer is becoming more important to South Korea over time, and is a sport shared by North and South. South Korea is one of the strongest teams in Asia and some of their players work have had successful careers in the top European leagues. The sport gained an incredible amount of short term popularity when the South Korean national team reached the World Cup semi-finals in 2002, and even today the country stops for World Cup matches. Unfortunately the enthusiasm for domestic and friendly international games is extremely low, and stadiums are usually mostly empty.

Other popular sports include golf and basketball. Badminton, table tennis and bowling are also popular and facilities for the public are widely available in cities. Korean martial arts such as taekwondo (태권도) are also popular. Golf particularly has a strong following, with membership fees for Korea's top golf clubs being more expensive than those in neighboring Japan or the United States. Many of the world's top female golfers are from Korea or of Korean descent. Archery is also a popular sport, with South Korea dominating the archery events at the Olympics.

As for winter sports, speed skating (especially short track) and figure skating are extremely popular due to the repeated success of South Korea in the Winter Olympics, with South Korea dominating the short track speed skating events. The city of Pyeongchang hosted the 2018 Winter Olympic Games.

Buy

Money

Exchange rates for South Korean won As of January 2024: US$1 ≈ ₩1,300 €1 ≈ ₩1,400 UK£1 ≈ ₩1,650 Japanese ¥100 ≈ ₩900 Chinese ¥1 ≈ ₩180 HK$1 ≈ ₩170 SG$1 ≈ ₩1,000 Exchange rates fluctuate. Current rates for these and other currencies are available from XE.com

South Korean bills and coins

The currency of South Korea is the South Korean won, denoted by ₩ (ISO code: KRW) and written 원 (won) in the Korean language.

Bills come in denominations of ₩1,000 (blue), ₩5,000 (red), ₩10,000 (green) and ₩50,000 (yellow). The ₩50,000 is very practical if you need to carry around a reasonable amount of cash, however it can be hard to use on goods or services with a value of less than ₩10,000. The ₩50,000 can be hard to find and often only provided by ATM's that display a picture of the yellow note on the outside.

₩100,000 "checks" are frequently used, and some of the checks go up to ₩10,000,000 in value. These checks are privately issued by banks and can be used instead of cash for larger purchases, such as hotel rooms.

Coins mainly come in denominations of ₩10, ₩50, ₩100 and ₩500. Very rare ₩1 and ₩5 coins do exist. Generally speaking it is rare to buy anything valued less than ₩100.

Banking and payment

Credit card acceptance in shops, hotels and other businesses on the other hand is very good, and all but the very cheapest restaurants and motels will accept Visa and MasterCard. Even small purchases such as ₩4,000 for a coffee are okay. This works well since credit cards have good exchange rates, however if you are using a foreign card then you should ensure with your bank that there isn't a fee for this foreign transaction.

ATMs are ubiquitous, although using a foreign card with them is rather hit and miss. There are however many special global ATMs which accept foreign cards. They can generally be found at Shinhan/Jeju Bank, airports, in areas frequented by foreigners, in major cities, some subway stations, and in many Family Mart convenience stores — most of the time indicated by the "Foreign Cards" button on the screen. Some banks, such as Citibank, have a fee of ₩3,500 for foreign cards. Before heading to the countryside where foreign cards are less likely to be accepted, be sure to have cash or another source of money.

T-money smart cards are an alternative source of payment accepted widely, especially for public transportation. (See § Smart cards.) Some other cities have their own smart cards, and topping up T-money outside of Seoul can be a problem but at Shinhan/Jeju Bank it should always be possible. You may need to ask the local cashier for help due to the Korean-only menus/buttons.

If you plan on staying in South Korea for a longer time, you'll probably want to set up a bank account at a Korean bank such as Woori Bank, which can then be used at the bank's ATMs throughout the country. (Even some non-local accounts can do this, e.g. Woori Bank accounts setup in China come with an ATM card that can be used with all its ATMs in South Korea.) Many banks will even allow you to open an account on a tourist visa, though the services you will be able to access will often be very limited. Some of the larger banks may have English-speaking staff on hand at their major branches.

Costs

South Korea is fairly expensive compared to most Asian countries, but is a little cheaper compared to other modern developed countries such as Japan and most Western countries. A frugal backpacker who enjoys eating, living and travelling Korean-style can easily squeeze by on under ₩60,000/day, but if you want top-class hotels and Western food even ₩200,000/day will not suffice. Seoul is more expensive than the rest of the country, and has become particularly expensive competing in many ways with Tokyo, but this has eased since the financial crisis.

Tipping

Tipping is not expected anywhere in South Korea and is not practiced by Koreans. It could be considered an insult between Koreans as it is regarded as giving someone charity, although people generally know of American tipping culture and would be understanding of a foreigner doing this.

Many hotels and a few tourist restaurants add 10% service charge on their bills. Bellhops, hotel maids, taxi drivers and bars frequented by Westerners will not reject any tips that you care to hand out.

Restaurants sometimes provide complimentary food or drinks to customers as a sign of generosity or to reward customer loyalty. Colloquially, this is known as "service".

Shopping

Namdaemun market in Seoul

At certain retail outlets with a "Tax Free Shopping" or a "Tax Refund Shopping" sign, you can obtain a voucher and get a large percentage (approx. 10%) of your purchase refunded for individual purchases between ₩30,000 and ₩200,000, and with a total limit of ₩1 million. When you leave South Korea, go to customs and have it stamped then go to the "Global Refund Korea" or "Korea Tax Refund" counters near the duty-free shops. However, to get a refund you must leave within 3 months of purchase.

Bargaining is common at outdoor markets and applies to everything they may have to offer. However, do not state a specific monetary amount. Instead, say "ssage juseyo" (싸게 주세요, "Cheaper, please."). Doing this once or twice will suffice. However, you will rarely be discounted more than a few dollars.

Korea is the ginseng (인삼 insam) capital of the world. Widely considered to have medicinal properties, it can be found in special mountain areas throughout Korea. A thick black paste made from ginseng is popular, as is ginseng tea and various other products. There are many grades of ginseng, with the best grades potentially fetching millions of US dollars at auctions. A good place to check out the different types of ginseng would be Gyeongdong Herbal Medicine Market in Seoul.

Visitors looking for traditional items to bring home can find a wide variety of choices. You can find a blue-jade celadon from the Goryeo Dynasty, handmade traditional costumes, paper kites and ceramic pieces that depict human emotions in their designs at the numerous markets and souvenir shops. Insadong in Seoul would be the first place to shop around. After a while one store might start to look like every other store but chances are you'll find what you need.

Keeping up with the latest fashion trends, shoppers and boutique owners alike flock the streets and markets every weekend. Centered largely in Seoul with popular places such as Dongdaemun, Mok dong Rodeo Street and Myeong dong, fashion centers can be divided into two large categories; markets and department stores. Markets are affordable and each shop will have trendy similar type clothing that appeal to the masses. Also, be aware that you cannot try on most tops. So better to know your size before shopping there. Though department stores will have areas or floors that have discounted items, they are considered overpriced and catering mostly to an older, wealthier crowd.

The traditional Korean garment known as the hanbok (한복), which is still worn by South Koreans for special occasions and historical re-enactments, and can be found in various garment markets. While a traditional hanbok requires visiting a specialist shop and customized fittings, making it rather expensive, more casual versions that are more practical for daily use and significantly cheaper can also be found. A popular place to get a traditional hanbok is the second floor of Gwangjang Market in Seoul, where you can find many traditional hanbok tailors, each with a wide array of fabrics to choose from. When wearing a hanbok, it should always be wrapped left over right; doing it the other way round is a major faux pass as that is only done when dressing the dead.

For all things considered antique, such as furniture, calligraphic works, ceramics and books, you can go to Jangangpyeong Antique Market in Seoul. Items over 50 years old cannot leave the country. Check with the Art and Antique Assessment Office at +82-32-740-2921.

Electronics such as mobile phones, tablets, laptops and other gadgets are widely available, especially in larger cities like Seoul and Busan. For the most part these same devices are available in most Western countries and the warranties may not be honored outside of Korea. You would also probably have to contend with having the instruction booklets and functions being written in Korean. Korean Rice Cookers are very popular with visitors from East Asia - with many more models and at a cheaper price than abroad - just be aware that 'voice activated' cookers may require you to speak Korean to them!

BTS, the first K-pop band to be invited to the White House

K-pop is a large element of the Korean Wave (hallyu) phenomenon that took much of Asia by storm at the beginning of the 21st century, and spread to the West in the 2020s, so you might want to stream the latest Korean music by popular K-pop singers and groups — and discover some of the lesser-known ones. K-pop artistes are signed by talent agencies and record companies at a very young age, and typically train arduously for many years before they are allowed to debut. These days, K-pop singers are recruited not just from South Korea, but also from across East Asia such as China, Japan, Thailand and Vietnam, and overseas Korean-American and Korean-Australian communities. Controversially, aspiring K-pop artists are made to sign contracts that give them little control over their private lives, often banning them from dating in order to maintain the illusion of "availability" to their fans. In terms of shopping, there are plenty of opportunities to buy merchandise — such as posters, t-shirts, mobile phone cases. Most music is now consumed as digital downloads, but there are still some music shops selling CD's to be found. And if you want to see them live, there is of course no better place than South Korea.

K-dramas are massively popular in Asia and streaming a drama will certainly last you many rainy afternoons. It is possible to visit many famous K-Drama locations and possibly buy related merchandize there. Many tourists like to hire traditional costumes from historical dramas and recreate the scenes. These days it is possible to stream recent K-Dramas around most of the world, although it is still possible to buy a series box set on DVD if you look hard enough (note that Korean DVD's will be locked to DVD region 3 and may not have foreign subtitles).

Eat

Example of a Korean meal: bibimbap with (from left) pickles, eomuk jorim sauteed fishcake, kimchi, pajeon pancake, a pot of gochujang and doenjang soup

See also: Korean cuisine

Korean cuisine is becoming increasingly popular outside of Korea, especially in other parts of East Asia and the U.S. It can be an acquired taste, with lots of spicy and fermented dishes, but it's addictive once you get used to it and Korean food is definitely in a class of its own, mixing spicy chilies and copious amounts of garlic with delicate ingredients like raw fish. Although Korean food is quite low in fat, a fact attested to by the observation that very few South Koreans are overweight, those with sodium-limited diets should beware, as Korean cuisine can be heavy in salt.

A Korean meal is centered around rice and soup and likely a fish or meat dish, invariably served with a vast assortment of small side dishes known as banchan (반찬). The humblest meal comes with three types while a royal banquet may well feature twenty types of banchan. In addition to kimchi, typical side dishes include bean sprouts (콩나물 kongnamul), spinach (시금치 shigeumchi), and small dried fish.

The ubiquitous kimchi (김치 gimchi), made from fermented cabbage and chili, accompanies nearly every meal and ranges from mild to roaringly spicy. In addition to the common cabbage type, kimchi can also be made from white radish (깍두기 ggakdugi), cucumbers (오이 소박이 oi-sobagi), chives (부추 김치 buchu gimchi) or pretty much any vegetable that can be pickled. Many different dishes are made using kimchi for flavoring, and kimchi is served as a side dish as well. It is not uncommon to find Korean tourists carrying a stash of tightly packed kimchi when travelling abroad.

Two more condiments found in almost every dish are doenjang (된장), a fermented soybean paste akin to Japanese miso, and gochujang (고추장), a spicy chili paste.

While many of these dishes can be found throughout Korea, every city also has its own regional specialties, such as dakgalbi (닭갈비) in the city of Chuncheon.

A common perception among Koreans is that foreigners don't like spicy food, so you might have to spend some time convincing people otherwise if you really want to eat something hot. And while Korean food undoubtedly has the neighboring bland-dieted Japanese and northern Chinese breathing fire, if you're accustomed to, say, Thai or Mexican food, you may wonder what the fuss is about.

Foreign food restaurants are also popular, albeit usually with a Korean twist. Fried chicken has been adopted and many believe it better than the American original. Pizzas are also ubiquitous although you may wonder quite where the inspirations behind the toppings came from. Vietnamese and Mexican food appeals to Koreans as well. Japanese restaurants of all varieties are very common. Strangely enough, authentic Chinese food is somewhat hard to come by, and Koreans often think of Korean Chinese dishes such as jajangmyeon (자장면, noodles topped with a thick brown sauce, derived from a northern Chinese dish) with tangsuyuk (탕수육, sweet and sour pork) as Chinese dining.

Etiquette

Chopsticks Korean style - made out of metal

Korean utensils (수저 sujeo) consist of a spoon (숟가락 sutgarak) and chopsticks (젓가락 jeotgarak). Unique in Asia, Koreans use chopsticks made of metal, which don't burn when used over a hot grill and are easier to wash and reuse. Restaurants typically provide stainless steel chopsticks, which unfortunately for the chopstick learner, are very difficult to use! These thin and slippery sticks are not as easy as the wooden or plastic chopsticks but you'll still manage with some fumbling.

Spoons are used to eat rice, soup, and porridge. (Koreans find it strange that their Asian neighbors eat rice with chopsticks.) Dongaseu (돈가스, Japanese-style tonkatsu or fried pork cutlet) is eaten with a fork and knife. Many Korean restaurants may also offer Western cutlery to a Westerner.

When eating as a group, communal dishes will be placed in the center and everybody can chopstick what they want, but you'll still get individual portions of rice and soup. Unless you are eating royal cuisine, most dishes are served family style.

In many traditional households, children were taught that it is impolite to speak during meals. Don't be surprised if there's complete silence while eating. People, particularly men, will use mealtimes to quickly eat up and move on to other things. This can be attributed to the short mealtimes during military service that most young Korean men must perform.

Some etiquette pointers:

• Do not leave chopsticks sticking upright in a dish, especially rice. This is only done when honoring the deceased. Similarly, a spoon sticking upright into a bowl of rice is also not a good sign.
• Do not pick up your chopsticks or start eating until the eldest at the table has begun to eat.
• Do not lift any plates or bowls off the table while eating, as Koreans consider this to be rude.
• Do not make noises by hitting your utensils on the food bowls and plates.

Restaurants

Going hungry in South Korea would be difficult. Everywhere you turn, there is always somewhere to eat. Korean restaurants can be divided into a few categories:

• Bunsik (분식) are snack eateries that have cheap, tasty food prepared quickly.
• Kogijip (고기집), literally meaning "meat house", are where you'll find grilled meat dishes and fixings.
• Hoejip (회집), "raw fish house", serve slices of fresh fish akin to Japanese sashimi, known as hwe in Korean, and free side dishes. You'll normally find these restaurants cluttering the shores of any waterway.
• Hansik (한식) serve the full-course Korean meal (한정식, hanjeongsik), a Korean haute cuisine that originated with banquets given at the royal palace. Traditionally served all at once, restaurants today will serve courses separately. The meal starts with a cold appetizer and juk (죽, porridge). The main dish includes seasoned meat and vegetable dishes that can be either steamed, boiled, fried or grilled. After the meal, you are served traditional drinks such as sikhye or sujeonggwa.
• Department stores have two types of food areas: a food hall in the basement and full service restaurants on the top levels. The food hall areas have take-away as well as eat-in areas. The full service restaurants are more expensive, but typically have the advantage of picture menus and good ambience.

Barbecues

Galbi on the grill and the fixings around it

Korean barbecue is probably the most popular Korean dish for Westerners. In Korea, it's split into bulgogi (불고기, thin cuts of marinated meat), galbi (갈비, ribs, usually unmarinated), and a few other categories. In these, a charcoal brazier is placed in the middle of the table, and you cook your choice of meats, adding garlic to the brazier for spice. A popular way of eating it is to wrap the meat with a lettuce or perilla leaf, adding shredded green onion salad (파무침 pa-muchim), raw or cooked garlic, shredded pickled radish (무채 muchae) and ssamjang (쌈장, a sauce made from doenjang, gochujang, and other flavorings) to your liking.

The cost of a barbecue meal depends largely on the meat chosen. In most Korean restaurants that serve meat, it is sold in units (usually 100 grams). Pork is by far the most common meat ordered; it's much cheaper than beef and according to diners tastier. You'll rarely see filet mignon; instead, common cuts of meat include ribs, unsalted pork bacon (삼겹살 samgyeopsal) and chicken stir-fried with veggies and spicy sauce (닭갈비 dak-galbi). Unmarinated meats tend to be higher quality, but in cheaper joints it's best to stick with the marinated stuff.

Rice dishes

Bibimbap (비빔밥) literally means "mixed rice", which is a pretty good description. It consists of a bowl of rice topped with vegetables and usually shreds of meat and an egg, which you mix up with your spoon, stirring in your preferred quantity of gochujang, and then devour. Particularly tasty is dolsot bibimbap (돌솥비빔밥), served in a piping hot stone bowl (watch your fingers!) that cooks the rice to a crisp on the bottom and edges.

Another healthy and tasty option is gimbap (김밥), sometimes dubbed "Korean sushi rolls". Gimbap contains rice, sesame seed, a Korean variety of spinach, pickled radish, and an optional meat such as minced beef or tuna, all neatly wrapped in dried seaweed, topped with sesame oil and sliced. A single roll makes a good snack or a whole meal depending on your appetite, and they travel well. What differentiates Korean gimbap and Japanese sushi is how they prepare rice: gimbap usually uses salt and sesame oil to flavor the rice, while sushi uses sugar and vinegar. Also, gimbap usually does not feature raw fish.

More of a snack than a meal is tteokbokki (떡볶이), which resembles a pile of steaming intestines at first sight, but is actually rice cakes (떡, tteok) in a sweet chili sauce that's much milder than it looks.

Fried rice (볶음밥 bokkeum-bap) is also popular in South Korea, often as an add-on at the end of a meal that is cooked on a tabletop stove (like bulgogi or dakgalbi). It can also be ordered as a standalone dish in some places; kimchi fried rice (김치볶음밥 gimchi-bokkeum-bap) is a popular comfort dish for South Koreans.

Soups and stews

Samgyetang chicken soup with ginseng

Soups are known as guk (국) or tang (탕), while jjigae (찌개) covers a wide variety of stews. The line is fuzzy, and a few dishes can be referred to with both (e.g. the fish soup-stew dongtae jjigae/dongtaetang), but in general, jjigae are spicier and thicker while guk/tang are milder. Both are always eaten with plenty of white rice on the side.

Common versions of jjigae include doenjang jjigae (된장찌개), made with doenjang, vegetables and shellfish, and gimchi jjigae (김치찌개), made with — you guessed it — kimchi. Sundubu jjigae (순두부찌개) uses soft tofu as the main ingredient, usually with minced pork added, but there's also a seafood version called haemul sundubu jjigae (해물 순두부찌개) where the meat is replaced by shrimp, squid and the like.

Budae jjigae (부대찌개) is an interesting type of Korean fusion food from the city of Uijeongbu, where a U.S. military base is located. During the Korean War, the then-impoverished locals put together a dish using scraps from the American bases such as spam, sausages, and pork and beans, and while recipes vary, most of them involve large quantities of fiery kimchi. Most places will bring you a big pan of stew and put it on a gas stove in the middle of the table. Many like to put ramyeon noodles (라면 사리) in the stew, which is optional.

Popular tang soups include seolleongtang (설렁탕), a milky white broth from ox bones and meat, gamjatang (감자탕), a stew of potatoes with pork spine and chilies, and doganitang (도가니탕), made from cow knees. One soup worth a special mention is samgyetang (삼계탕), which is a whole spring chicken stuffed with ginseng and rice. Thanks to the ginseng, it's often a little expensive, but the taste is quite mild. It's commonly eaten right before the hottest part of summer in warm broth in a sort of "eat the heat to beat the heat" tradition.

Guk are mostly side dishes like the seaweed soup miyeokguk (미역국) and the dumpling soup manduguk (만두국), but a few like the scary-looking pork spine and ox blood soup haejangguk (해장국), a popular hangover remedy, are substantial enough to be a meal.

Noodles

Naengmyeon cold buckwheat noodles

Koreans love noodles, and the terms kuksu (국수) and myeon (면) span a vast variety of types available. They're often sold in fast-food noodle shops for as little as ₩3000. Wheat-based noodles are a staple of Korea.

Naengmyeon (냉면) are a Korean specialty, originally from the north. The thin, chewy buckwheat noodles served in ice-cold beef broth are a popular summer dish — although it's traditionally a winter food! They're also a classic way to end a heavy, meaty barbecue meal. The key to the dish is the broth (육수 yuksu); the recipes of well known restaurants are usually closely guarded secrets. Generally comes in two distinct styles: Pyongyang mul naengmyeon with a clear broth, and Hamhung bibim naengmyeon with a spicy dressing and chewier potato noodles.

Japchae (잡채) are yam noodles, which are fried along with some vegetables (commonly cabbage, carrots, onions) and sometimes beef or odeng (fishcake). Mandu (만두) dumplings are also very popular and are served up in steamed or fried as an accompaniment to other foods, or boiled in soup to make a whole meal.

Ramyeon (라면) is Korea's variant of ramen, often served with — what else? — kimchi. Korean ramyeon is well known for its overall spiciness, at least when compared to Japanese ramen. The Shin Ramyun brand of instant noodles are exported to over 100 countries.

Jajangmyeon (자장면) is considered to be Chinese food by Koreans, being derived from northern Chinese zhájiàngmiàn, a wheat noodle dish served with a black sauce that usually includes minced pork, onions, cucumber, and garlic. It's typically served at (what are liberally described as) Chinese restaurants. Its sauce contains some caramel and therefore makes the overall dish sweet. A popular combination is jajangmyeon with "Chinese" sweet and sour pork and chicken.

Jjamppong (짬뽕) is a "Chinese" noodle dish comprising of noodles in a red spicy pork or seafood broth, originally derived from the Shandong dish chǎomǎmiàn. Often served with jajangmeyon in a special bowl split down the middle, this combination is known as jjamjjamyeon (짬짜면).

Finally, udong (우동) are thick wheat noodles, akin to Japanese udon.

Seafood

Hoe

Since Korea is a peninsula, you can find every type of seafood (해물 haemul), eaten both cooked and raw. Restaurants where you pick your own fish — or bring it from the fish market next door — are popular, but can be very expensive depending on what you order.

Hoe (회, pronounced roughly "hweh") is raw fish Korean-style (similar to sashimi), served with spicy cho-gochujang sauce (a mixture of gochujang and vinegar). Chobap (초밥) is raw fish with vinegared rice, similar to Japanese sushi. In both dishes, the bony parts not served raw are often made into a tasty but spicy soup called meuntang (매운탕).

Another cooked specialty is haemultang (해물탕), a spicy red hotpot stew filled crab, shrimp, fish, squid, vegetables and noodles.

Whale meat is available in a few restaurants in the cities and at festivals in smaller coastal towns, but is not easy to find and unlike Japan is not considered part of national culture. The city of Pohang has a long history of whaling, and its seafood market still openly offers whale. South Korea has outlawed whaling following the International Whaling Commission international moratorium in 1986, although makes an exception for whales caught by accident during regular fishing. Whale meat sourced from Japan has been sold in some restaurants, which is illegal (although the law is usually ignored). Whale restaurants are easy to identify, with pictures of whales on the outside leaving you in no doubt. If you choose to eat whale then you should understand that the species in question could be endangered and therefore a decision left to your own moral compass.

Other

Jeon (전), jijimi (지짐이), jijim (지짐), bindaetteok (빈대떡) and buchimgae (부침개) are all general terms for Korean-style pan-fried pancakes, which can be made of virtually anything. Pajeon (파전) is a Korean-style pan-fried pancake laden with spring onions (파 pa). Haemul pajeon (해물파전), which has seafood added, is particularly popular. Saengseonjeon (생선전) is made of small fillets of fish covered with egg and flour and then pan fried, and nokdu bindaetteok (녹두빈대떡) is made from ground mung bean and various vegetables and meat combined.

If barbecued meat is not to your taste, then try Korean-style beef tartar, known as yukhoe (육회). Raw beef is finely shredded and then some sesame oil, sesame, pine nuts and egg yolk are added, plus soy and sometimes gochujang to taste. It's also occasionally prepared with raw tuna or even chicken instead.

Sundae (순대, pron. "soon-deh") are Korean blood sausages made from a wide variety of ingredients, often including barley, potato noodles and pig blood. Sundae is very tasty in spicy sauce or soup.

A squirmy delicacy is raw octopus (산낙지 sannakji) — it's sliced to order, but keeps wiggling for another half hour as you try to remove its suction cups from your plate with your chopsticks. Sea squirts (멍게 meongge) are at least usually killed before eating, but you might be hard-pressed to tell the difference as the taste has been memorably described as "rubber dipped in ammonia".

Hound by the pound Yes, it's true — Koreans eat dog, although the practice has fallen considerably in the past 20 years. Technically it is illegal in South Korea to sell dog meat for human consumption, although until recently the ban was rarely enforced, and dog meat soup (보신탕 bosintang or 영양탕 yeongyangtang) is often eaten for invigoration during the hottest days of summer. It is not regularly consumed as a common food item and is generally only sold in specialty dog restaurants, so you're unlikely to end up chewing on Snoopy by accident. It is most commonly consumed as a spicy soup or stew or as suyuk (수육), which is just meat boiled with spices to eliminate smell and make the meat tender. South Koreans are aware of Western attitudes towards dogs and are unlikely to try it out with you. Potentially you could gain a lot of respect from your Korean friends if you give it a try, although younger Koreans you encounter most likely share Western attitudes towards dogs these days and it can easily go the other way. If you are interested, it is best to ask your Korean friends to take you to such a restaurant since they rarely advertise. If you do make the effort, a bowl can go for under ₩10,000 and you'll find that dog tastes broadly like beef or veal, if perhaps a tad gamier. Most South Koreans do not eat dog meat regularly and these days more of them are considering dogs to be pets rather than food. New laws passed in 2024 aim to eliminate the dog meat trade entirely by 2027, with jail time for butchering dogs or selling dog meat. Merely eating dog, however, will not be a crime, and the tradition is unlikely to disappear overnight.

Dietary restrictions

Vegetarians will have a hard time in Korea. As in most of East Asia, "meat" is understood to be the flesh of land animals, so seafood is not considered meat. Spam can also be confused as not being meat, so be specific in explaining what you do not eat. If you ask for "no gogi (고기)" they will probably just cook as usual and pick out the big chunks of meat. One good phrase is to say you are "chaesikjuwija" (채식주의자), a person who only eats vegetables. This may prompt questions from the server, so be prepared! It is probably best to have a very explicit list of foods you do and do not eat in Korean on a card or piece of paper to show restaurant servers and cooks. (See Korean phrasebook § Eating.) Or look for namul (나물), a variety of Korean-style edible grass and leaves dishes.

Most stews will use fish stock, especially myeolchi (멸치, anchovy). This will be your bane, and outside of reputable vegetarian restaurants, you should ask if you are ordering any stews, hotpots, or casseroles.

Spicy (red) kimchi will almost certainly have seafood, such as salted tiny shrimp, as an ingredient. Since it disappears into the brine, you will not be able to visually identify it. It is possible to find vegan spicy kimchi, as it is made by some Buddhist temples, but you will have to spend some effort to find some. Another type of kimchi called mulgimchi (물김치, "water kimchi") is vegan, as it is simply salted in a clear, white broth with many different vegetables. If you are willing to eat something flavored with brine shrimp, then kimchi will certainly take you a long way in Korea.

For lactose intolerant people, avoiding dairy products is straightforward as they are uncommon in traditional Korean cuisine.

As per Korea's Buddhist tradition, vegans and vegetarians are safe at Korean temple cuisine (사찰음식 sachal eumsik) restaurants, which uses no dairy, egg, or animal products, except perhaps honey. This cuisine has been in vogue, but it is considered to be a form of fine dining and tends to be rather expensive. Temple stays usually include vegetarian meals as part of the package.

There is an increasing number of vegetarian restaurants in Korea — most are in the larger or medium-sized places. Some of these are run by Seventh-Day Adventists or Hindus.

When out and about, the following vegetarian and vegan food is relatively easy to find and safe to order:

• Many of the banchan side dishes served with most meals are vegetarian, although the kimchi usually is not.
• Bibimbap (비빔밥) is a great vegan option of mixed rice and vegetables and found pretty much everywhere! Still, be careful because it is occasionally offered with ground beef, and often with a fried egg.
• Somandu (소만두) are Korean dumplings with vegetable and glass noodle filling. Stay clear of almost any other kind of dumpling.
• Japchae (잡채) are cold glass noodles in a vegetable broth, often with ice, but ensure that beef chunks are not added. Delicious in summer.
• Gimbap (김밥) are Korean sushi rolls with rice and pickled vegetables, and can be found everywhere. There are many varieties, but you should look for the ones without Spam or fishcake in the middle.

Drink

Drinkers rejoice — booze is cheap and Koreans are among the heaviest drinkers in the world. Due to the strict social norms in effect at the workplace, the drinking hall tends to be the only place where inhibitions can be released and personal relationships expressed. Significant business deals are closed not in the boardroom, but in the bar. Promotions, grants, and other business advancements are secured over drinks at singing rooms, late night raw fish restaurants, and restaurant-bars. Many Korean men are what would be considered heavy drinkers in the west, and as alcoholism is being recognized as an ailment, public moves have begun to attempt to curb alcohol intake. Don't be surprised to see businessmen in suits lying around sleeping it off, and be careful not to step in the puddles of vomit common on the sidewalks in the mornings.

The drinking age in South Korea is 19.

Nightlife

Compared to Western drinking habits, Koreans have adopted slightly different ways to enjoy their night out. Sure, you can find Western style bars easily, but going to a Korean style bar can be an interesting experience. Hofs (호프 hopeu, from German Hof, "court" or "yard" as in Hofbräuhaus) are just normal beer places, which serve beer and side dishes. The pojangmacha (포장마차), often shorted to just pocha (포차), is a roadside stall with a tent over it, serving soju along with numerous popular Korean comfort dishes to go with it. Customers are generally expected to order some side dish to go along with their drinks at most drinking establishments in Korea. Due to growing competition, many hofs have started to install various gadgets for entertainment.

Booking clubs are the Korean version of night clubs. What makes them interesting is the "booking" part of the name. It's basically a way to meet new people of the opposite sex by introduction of the waiters (who usually bring women to visit tables of men, but increasingly vice-versa). Booking clubs are slightly more expensive than normal bars and hofs, but can be extremely fun. These can be different from American-style clubs, in that in addition to a cover charge, you are pretty much expected to order booze and side dishes (which can be quite pricey in ₩200,000-₩500,000 range and up). But other than that, the dancing and atmosphere is about the same.

One of the customary things to do at a booking club is to "dress-up" your table or booth by purchasing expensive liquors and fruit plates, which signals your "status" to the other patrons of the club (especially your gender of interest). Scotch whisky is especially marked up a great deal in Korea, so don't be surprised to pay very high prices for that innocuous bottle of Johnnie Walker. On the other hand, it is a better value overall to buy a bottle of liquor or a "liquor set" than to purchase drinks individually.

On the other end of the spectrum, many locals go out to drink and eat with their friends at the many Korean grillhouses found throughout the city. It is not uncommon for people to consume several bottles of soju each, and mixing beer and hard liquor is encouraged. Group bonding over liquor and food is a cultural feature across South Korea.

For those who love singing as well as drinking, karaoke is popular and therefore widely available in South Korea, where it's called noraebang (노래방). In addition to Korean songs, larger establishments may include some Chinese, Japanese and English songs.

Etiquette

There are a few etiquette rules to observe when drinking with Koreans. You're not supposed to fill your own glass; instead, keep an eye on others' glasses, fill them up when they become empty (but not before), and they'll return the favor. It's considered polite to use both hands when pouring for somebody and when receiving a drink, and to turn your head away from seniors when drinking.

Younger people often have a difficult time refusing a drink from an older person, so be aware when asking someone younger than you if they want to drink more as they will often feel unable to say no to you. Of course, this works both ways. Oftentimes, if an older person feels you are not keeping up with the party, he may offer you his glass, which he will then fill and expect you to drink. It is considered polite to promptly return the empty glass and refill it.

Soju

Soju

The national drink of South Korea is soju (소주), a vodka-like alcoholic beverage (usually around 20% alcohol by volume). It's cheaper than any other drink — a 350 mL bottle can cost slightly over ₩3,000 at bars (as little as ₩1,100 at convenience stores!) — and also strong. It's usually made by fermenting starch from rice, barley, corn, potato, sweet potato, etc., to produce pure alcohol which is then diluted with water and other flavors. The manufacturing process leaves in a lot of extraneous chemicals, so be prepared for a four-alarm hangover in the morning, even after drinking a comparatively small amount.

Traditionally, soju was made by distilling rice wine and aging it, which created a smooth spirit of about 40%. This type of traditional soju can still be found, for example Andong Soju (안동 소주) — named after the town of Andong — and munbaeju (문배주). These can be expensive, but prices (and quality) vary considerably.

Historically, there were numerous brewers throughout the country until late Chosun dynasty and before Japanese colonization. However, by the Japanese colonization and the oppressive and economy-obsessed government in the 1960-'70s, using rice for making wine or spirits was strictly prohibited. This eliminated most of the traditional brewers in the country, and Korea was left with a few large distilleries (Jinro 진로, Gyeongwol 경월, Bohae 보해, Bobae 보배, Sunyang 선양, etc.) that basically made "chemical soju". Brewery distribution and markets were regionalized, and until the 1990s it was difficult to find a Jinro soju anywhere else than Seoul (you would have to pay premium even if you found one), Gyeongwol soju outside Gangwon, or Sunyang outside Chungcheong.

Also, there are soju cocktails such as "socol" (soju + Coke), ppyong-gari (soju + Pocari Sweat, a Japanese isotonic drink like flavorless Gatorade), so-maek (soju + beer), etc., all aimed at getting you drunk quicker and cheaper.

Rice wine

Traditional unfiltered rice wines in Korea are known as takju (탁주), literally "cloudy alcohol". In the most basic and traditional form, these are made by fermenting rice with nuruk (누룩), a mix of fungi and yeast that breaks down starch in rice into sugar and then alcohol over 3–5 days. Then this is strained, usually diluted to 4–6% and imbibed. However, as with the case of traditional soju, unless explicitly stated on the bottle most takju are made from wheat flour and other cheaper grains. Makgeolli (막걸리) is the simplest takju, fermented once and then strained, while in dongdongju (동동주) more rice is added once or more during the fermentation to boost the alcohol content and the flavor. Typically you can find a couple of rice grains floating in dongdongju as a result.

Cheongju vs. sake There are two major differences between Korean and Japanese rice wine. The first is that Korean wine uses nuruk, while Japanese wine uses koji. While both can be considered yeasts, nuruk contains various kinds of fungi and other microorganisms, while in koji a more selected breed of fungi does its job. The treatment of rice is also different: traditionally rice for making cheongju is washed "a hundred times" (백세 paekse), but for sake, the rice is polished until the grain size is as little as 50% of its original size. Therefore, some people comment that in general cheongju tastes more complex and earthy, while sake tastes cleaner and sweeter.

Yakju (약주) or cheongju (청주) is filtered rice wine, similar to the Japanese rice wine sake. The fermentation of rice is sustained for about 2 weeks or longer, strained, and then is kept still to have the suspended particles settle out. The end result is the clear wine on top, with about 12–15% alcohol. Various recipes exist, which involve a variety of ingredients and when and how to add them accordingly. Popular brands include Baekseju (백세주) and Dugyeonju (두견주).

Those with an interest in the wine production process and its history will want to visit the Traditional Korean Wine Museum in Jeonju.

Ginseng wine

One expensive but tasty type of alcohol you can find in Korea is Korean ginseng wine (인삼주 insamju), which is believed to have medicinal properties and is particularly popular among the elderly. It is made by fermenting Korean ginseng, just as the name implies.

Beer

Western-style lagers are also quite popular in Korea, with the three big brands being Cass, Hite (pronounced like "height") and OB, all of which are rather light and watery and cost around ₩1,500 per bottle at a supermarket. Hofs serve pints of beer in the ₩2,000-5,000 range, although imported beers can be much more expensive. You are expected to order food as well, and may even get served grilled squid or similar Korean pub grub without ordering, for a charge of ₩10,000 or so.

Tea

Yujacha and the yuzu jam it's made from

Like their Asian neighbors, Koreans drink a lot of tea (차 cha), most of it green tea (녹차 nokcha). However, the label cha is applied to a number of other tealike drinks as well:

• boricha (보리차), roasted barley tea, often served cold in summer, water substitute for many household
• insamcha (인삼차), ginseng tea
• oksusucha (옥수수차), roasted corn tea
• yujacha (유자차), yuzu jam with hot water, sweet and fragrant
• yulmucha (율무차), a thick white drink made from a barley-like plant called Job's tears

Like Chinese and Japanese teas, Korean teas are always drunk neat, without the addition of milk or sugar. However, Western-style milk tea is available at Western restaurants and the usual American fast-food chains.

Coffee

Coffee (커피 keopi) is an obsession in South Korea and widely available.

Coffee shops can be seen virtually everywhere in the country. There are a large number of chains such as Cafe Bene and Angel in Us as well as Starbucks, where a cup of milk-based coffee costs around ₩5,000. Do note that you are mostly paying for the cafe atmosphere rather than the quality of the coffee. It is worth to hunt out smaller independent coffee shops that take great pride in their coffee and charge a more reasonable price. Even in small countryside towns, the ubiquitous bread shops Tous le Jours and Paris Baguette will give you a decent latte for around ₩2,000. Aside from coffee, these cafes will usually sell food such as sandwiches, toasties, paninis and quesadillas as well as sweet options such as bingsu (Korean shaved ice), Korean-style toast, pastries and a wide variety of cakes, some even vegan. They tend to have much longer opening hours than their western counterparts and can be found open late into the night. 24-hour establishments can be found in the larger cities.

Younger South Koreans, in particular, drink a lot of iced Americano ('아이스 아메리카노' or commonly just '아아'/'Ah-Ah'), even during the coldest winter days! It's usually two shots of espresso with water and ice.

Streetside vending machines that will pour you a cupful of instant coffee mix for as little as ₩300, usually sweet and milky, but there is often a plain option. 24-hour self-service cafes (with no staff) with regular coffees and lattes are becoming common as well.

Other drinks

Some other traditional drinks worth keeping an eye out for:

• Sikhye (식혜), a very sweet, grainy rice drink served cold
• Sujeonggwa (수정과), a sweet, cinnamon-y drink made from persimmons served cold

Sleep

There’s plenty of accommodation in all price brackets in South Korea. Prices in Seoul are typically about twice that of anywhere else in the country.

Some higher-end hotels offer a choice of Western-style and Korean-style rooms. The main feature of Korean rooms is an elaborate floor-heating system known as ondol (온돌), where hot steam (or, these days, water or electricity) heats stone slabs under a layer of clay and oiled paper. There are no beds; instead, mattresses are laid directly on the floor. Other furniture is typically limited to some low tables (you're also expected to sit on the floor) and maybe a TV.

Motels

Some of the cheapest accommodation in South Korea are in what are called motels (모텔 motel) or yeogwan (여관), but a more accurate name would be sex hotels. Since Koreans often live with parents and extended family, motels are generally very cheap hotels targeted at young couples aiming to spend personal time together, complete with plastic beds, occasionally vibrating, with strategically placed mirrors on the ceiling, as well as a VCR and a variety of appropriate videos. However for the budget traveller, they can simply be inexpensive lodging, with rates as low as ₩25,000/night.

The easiest way to find a motel is to just look for the symbol "♨" and gaudy architecture, particularly near stations or highway exits. They're harder to find online, as they rarely if ever show up in English-language booking sites.

In some motels picking your room is very easy, as there will be room numbers, lit pictures and prices on the wall. The lower price is for a "rest" (휴식 hyusik) of 2–4 hours, while the higher price is the overnight rate. Press the button for the one you like, which will go dark, and proceed to check-in. You'll usually be expected to pay in advance, often to just a pair of hands behind a frosted glass window. English is rarely spoken, but the only word you need to know is sukbak (숙박, "staying"). You may or may not receive a key, but even if you don't, the staff can usually let you in and out on request — just don't lose your receipt!

Hotels

Full-service hotels can be found in all larger towns in Korea. Cheaper hotels blend into motels with rooms from ₩40,000, while three and four-star hotels are ₩100,000-200,000, and five-star luxury hotels can easily top ₩300,000. Outside peak season you can often get steep discounts from the rack rates, so be sure to ask when reserving.

Hanok

Hanok (한옥) are traditional Korean houses. Once considered to be old-fashioned and an impediment to modernization, many of these houses dating back to the Joseon dynasty are being renovated and opened to paying guests, operating similar to B&Bs or Japanese ryokan or minshuku. Amenities range from very basic backpacker-style to over-the-top luxury, with prices to match. Higher-end establishments typically provide the option of having a traditional Korean dinner, as well as a choice of either Western or traditional Korean-style breakfast. Guests would usually sleep on mattresses on the floor. Hanok accommodations can typically be found in old towns such as Bukchon in Seoul, as well as historical towns and cities such as Hahoe and Gyeongju.

Hostels and guesthouses

While not as common in South Korea as in other parts of Asia or the world, hostels and guesthouses can be found. Major cities, such as Seoul, will have a few dozen, while smaller cities may have a handful. Prices can vary widely, even within one hostel. In Seoul, mixed dorms average ₩15,000-25,000 per person; private rooms with a shared toilet and shower average ₩20,000-30,000 per person; and private ensuite rooms average ₩25,000-40,000 per person. Many hostels will have a common room with free TV, games, computers, and internet; some will have a public full kitchen and other amenities.

Minbak

In rural areas in and near national parks, you can find a minbak (민박). Most of these are just a room or two in someone's home — others are quite fancy and may be similar to motels/yeogwan or hotels. Generally, they have ondol rooms with maybe a TV and that's about it. You don't usually get your own bathroom in your room, although some of the fancier ones do have an en suite. Minbak usually run around ₩20,000 off-season, though the price may go up quite a bit during high season.

Homestay

Very similar in concept to a minbak, these aren't limited to just rural areas or near national parks. Since the World Cup in 2002, many families around the country have opened their doors and hearts to foreigners looking for a great place to sleep and a breakfast included in the price. These can run between ₩30,000 and ₩35,000 per night.

Pension

A fancier and costly version of rural minbak. Most of them are European-style detached bungalows, equipped with private shower/bath, TV, air conditioner, private kitchen and camping grills. Pensions usually run around ₩60,000-150,000 off-season and over ₩200,000 peak season depending on the size of the house. Pensions near Seoul (Gyeonggi, Incheon) usually costs twice or more the price.

Jjimjilbang

Inside a jjimjilbang

For the budget traveller, public bath houses known as jjimjilbang (찜질방) can offer a great way to sleep, besides a relaxing bath and sauna. (Some Korean spas don't offer overnight stay, like the "Spa Land Centum City" in Busan, and some can be limited in time, like the "Dragon Hill Spa" in Seoul, but they are exceptions.) Entrance costs around ₩5,000-12,000, and includes a robe or T-shirts/shorts (for mixed facilities and sleeping hall) to wear. However, when you leave, you have to take everything with you and pay to get back in.

The facilities can be expansive, including showers, public baths, restaurants, computer/video game rooms, a room with DVD movies, and a warm hall to sleep, mostly with mattresses and sometimes soft head rests available. These places are generally used by families or couples during the weekend, as well as Korean working men from the countryside on weekday evenings, but travellers are welcome. A jjimjilbang is no more awkward than any Western public bath — so go ahead.

Usually two lockers are provided, one for the shoes (at the entrance) and one for your clothes and everything else (near the bath entrance). A very large backpack may not fit, although you can usually leave it at reception.

Temples

South Korea offers many temple stays in all parts of the country. The basic idea is that you stay for one or more days living with the monks and participating in some of their rituals.

Jogye (조계사), Korea's largest Buddhist sect, runs a popular temple stay program where visitors get to spend 24 hours living at a Buddhist temple. Speaking Korean helps but is not necessary at some temples, but you will be expected to work at the temple and get up at 03:00 or 04:00 to participate in morning prayer with the monks, and all food served will be vegetarian. In exchange for two to three meals and a basic bed for the night, a donation of ₩50,000-80,000 is expected. Reservations are necessary and can be made at the Temple Stay site or via Korea Travel Phone (+82-2-1330).

Learn

Education is taken very seriously in South Korea, often to the point of obsession, and the country is home to several world class universities. For a country that has limited natural resources, Koreans believe that the only way to become competitive in a global world is to absorb knowledge. This militant drive for educational excellence and success is exactly why South Korea became a developed country in less than a century.

While this may sound impressive, the South Korean educational system does have its drawbacks. The brutally competitive nature of the system means that Koreans are faced with a lot of pressure from their parents and peers to succeed academically, and the system is often blamed for the country's high suicide rate and high underemployment rate.

The most prestigious general universities, collectively known as SKY, are Seoul National University (SNU), Yonsei University and Korea University, the former of which is widely regarded as the undisputed number one university in South Korea. Korea Advanced Institute of Science and Technology (KAIST) and Pohang University of Science and Technology (POSTECH) are regarded as the top universities specializing in science and engineering. Admission to these universities are fiercely competitive for South Koreans, but considerably easier for foreigners if your Korean language ability is up to scratch.

Others

Gate to Kukkiwon in Seoul, home of the World Taekwondo Academy

• Taekwondo (태권도 taegwondo, literally "the way of kicking and punching") — The quintessential Korean martial art that is also an Olympic sport, and you can study at any of the numerous schools all over the country.
• Cooking — Most major cities will offer Korean cooking classes to foreigners. Some temple stays may also include vegetarian cooking classes with the monks or nuns.
  • Kimchi — Many tourist packages nowadays include learning how to make a Korean staple dish kimchi.
• Changgeuk (창극) or pansori (판소리) — If you like music, this will be good for you. It's a unique traditional Korean form of singing. If you want to learn about pansori through film, Seopyeonje (서편제) (1993) would be an excellent choice.
• Korean language — Seoul National University, Korea University, Sogang University, and Yonsei University (in Seoul) provide Korean language programs. You can meet people from all over the world while studying Korean.
• Korean traditional dance — You can go to a dance studio and learn Korean traditional dance. You will wear hanbok, Korean traditional clothes.
• Baduk (바둑) — Korean name for the ancient Chinese board game called Go in English and Japanese. Many Koreans play the game, and among them are some of the world's finest players. There are professional tournaments and even schools that specialize in baduk.
• Janggi (장기) — Also known as Korean chess, a board game similar to Chinese chess, with which it shares its origins, though the rules of the two games have diverged significantly.

Work

Working in Korea can be a great way to experience the country. For English teachers the hours and pay are reasonable, however for other professions bear in mind that South Korea has some of the longest working hours globally, and frequent obligatory after-work drinking can be demanding. In addition, Korea isn't yet really set up to make entering the job market easy for foreigners. Reading and speaking Korean will definitely open up many more opportunities for you.

Foreigners must obtain an Employment Visa in order to legally work in South Korea, and will usually require a company based in South Korea to sponsor your application. For prospective teachers the school will almost always arrange this on your behalf. Citizens of Australia, New Zealand, Canada and Japan may apply for a one year Working Holiday Visa which allows for short term employment whilst on holiday in Korea.

The work culture is extremely hierarchical and formal. You are expected to wear suits (for men) or business dresses (for women) and be unquestioningly loyal to your superior(s) — ask them for permission before you do anything, obey orders from them without hesitation, arrive before they come to work, leave only after they have left, and work on weekends when they ask you to. Korean authority figures take any attempts to challenge their authority extremely seriously and will not hesitate to put you in your place if you say or do anything that makes them feel challenged.

Korean companies prioritise group efforts (collaboration and cohesiveness) over individual efforts. If you are managing a team of Korean workers, know that you are expected to demonstrate and exhibit good morals and good leadership qualities; they expect you to be a guide to them.

Korean workers are also expected to go out for food and drinks with their colleagues after work multiple times a week, which means getting home only when it is really late.

Teaching

Work as an English teacher is the most common type of work available to foreigners from English speaking countries, with the requirements of being able to speak English and a minimum level of education being a Bachelor's degree. Schools prefer native English speakers and many prefer North American accents. In most instances, native English speakers from the United States, Canada, Australia, New Zealand, South Africa, Ireland, and the United Kingdom are the only applicants that are usually considered.

The main employer of native English speaking teachers are private academies called hagwon (학원). Many parents enroll their children in order to catch up or overtake their peers, and therefore scheduled classes are often in the evenings and Saturdays. People interested in these teaching positions often find them via professional recruiters. There are pros and cons to teaching ESL in the hagwon system. On the plus side the money can be quite good. As of 2016, the average monthly salary is approximately ₩2,000,000 and basic housing is usually provided. It's often possible to live comfortably on half of one's salary and to save the rest.

On the negative side, hagwon are privately run and strictly for profit, and may only operate for a few years. As such it is important to research and evaluate each prospective employer before accepting an offer, since there are plenty of horror stories of unscrupulous academy owners and incompetent directors. Although you will have full employment rights in South Korea, there is practically very little you can do when an issue or dispute arises. The majority of English teachers have a good experience through the hagwon system.

University employment is also possible. Those who have a graduate-level degree, preferably in TESOL (Teaching English as a Second or Other Language), may find professional opportunities at the post secondary level preferable to teaching in private academies.

Racial discrimination South Korean employers tend to be more discriminatory towards non-white people, especially towards people of African and Indian ethnic origin. Although the official position is that all people are welcome, there are actually no laws related to racial discrimination in South Korea. This is largely based on economics; the stereotypical native English speaker is a white person, and many parents expect the teacher to look like that when they send their children to learn English. South Korean job applications usually require you to attach a photo of yourself, along with other information usually considered private in the western English speaking world such as height, weight and marital status. Many foreign non-white people are hired into hagwon, but be aware that there is a bias.

Some of the best positions are in the public sector, although in Seoul and Busan, schools have been phasing out foreign English teachers and replacing them with English-speaking South Koreans. Still, year-long public school positions are available through the government-funded EPIK Program in most provinces and the rapidly contracting GEPIK Program in Gyeonggi, with a few also handled by recruiter companies. Alternately, the TALK Program runs 6-month rural public school positions for non-graduates.

For more information about teaching English in Korea through the private-sector, visit Eslcafe, Worknplay, Eslstarter and Englishspectrum. For the public-sector, see the aforementioned EPIK program.

Daejeon full-time public elementary school positions stand apart from most in the country in that they consist of multiple part-time support positions at different schools. Most public school and university positions start at the beginning of March or September, however these are the more desirable jobs and must be applied for months before the start date.

South Korean Immigration is constantly changing the visa regulations for E-2 visa holders, so keep abreast of updates.

IT

South Korea is often promoted as the world's most wired country, and as such has a massive IT infrastructure. There is plenty of IT work if you can speak Korean, although local rates are much lower than in western countries.

Engineering

South Korea has a lot of opportunities for engineers, and often doesn't have a requirement for Korean language. Port cities such as Busan, Ulsan and Geoje have a demand for marine engineers.

Stay safe

Crime

South Korea is a very safe country, with reported crime rates much lower than in the U.S. and most European Union countries. Crime rates are comparable to other safe places such as Japan, Singapore and Hong Kong, and it is generally safe for women to walk around the streets alone at night. Violent crime is rare toward locals and tourists alike. For the most part, the only foreigners who encounter trouble in South Korea are drunken ones that provoke fights at bars or clubs.

If you do happen to encounter any trouble, police stations are located in every district, usually in walking distance from subway entrances and bus stops. While most police officers won't understand English, they do have interpreters on-call that can assist you.

Especially in Korea, there is a ritual of not touching other people's things, so if you go to a cafe or on the street, you may see people leaving their expensive laptops and cell phone bags on the seats to use the restroom.

Be careful when picking up lost items dropped on the street, since the legal system here can regard that as theft in itself.

Racism

South Korea is one of the most ethnically homogeneous countries in the world, and for many South Koreans, this is a point of pride. Racism in South Korea is systemic and gets featured in the news from time to time. There is no anti-discrimination legislation whatsoever, and non-Koreans and half-Koreans are often subjected to abuse and discrimination. The rise in immigration in recent years has increased visibility of racism. A small number of businesses, typically bars, nightclubs and saunas, have been known to ban foreigners (although in areas where American soldiers are based, this is often just to avoid the possibility of fights). Negativity aside, South Korea is gradually changing.

In South Korea, lighter skin has historically been associated with beauty, purity, and higher social status. This is precisely the reason why fair-skinned people will receive better treatment — for instance, easy access to employment and teaching opportunities from Koreans, whereas darker skinned people may be treated with a degree of derision and suspicion.

Most visitors to South Korea are extremely unlikely to encounter any problems at all. If you do experience racial abuse then you can call on the police to help, although realistically if no other offense has been committed then they will at most just try and reason with the abuser.

People from North Korea also experience discrimination in society, partly out of suspicion (North Korea has sent assassins and spies disguised as refugees) and partly out of the difficulty to integrate themselves into a vastly different society. Ethnic Koreans from China are also often regarded poorly due to being associated with low economic status and crime. People from Southeast Asia are also discriminated against since most immigrant workers in low-paid jobs come from that region.

If you feel strongly about having been racially discriminated against, then you can register a complaint with the National Human Rights Commission of Korea. This is an official government agency, although with limited enforcement powers.

Traffic

Motorcycles not in emergency service are banned from Expressways in South Korea.

With one of the highest rates of traffic deaths, South Korean motorists will speed through pedestrian crossings, jump red lights and come within a hair-width distance to pedestrians and other cars alike. Even when the light turns red, drivers will not stop. Motorcyclists are particularly reckless weaving in and out on crowded sidewalks. It is up to you to avoid them.

There is a lot of discussion about the reason for this, although it basically comes down to Koreans regarding traffic laws as guidelines that are nice ideas rather than rules to be obeyed.

Pedestrian crosswalks stay green for a very short period of time. When the walk signal is flashing and you are still at the curb, do not cross. Instead, you should wait and be ready for the light to turn green. The moment it turns green, wait for about 3 to 5 seconds and see if other pedestrians start to cross, and if all the traffic has indeed stopped, then walk briskly to cross safely. It is safer to take underground passageways at busy intersections. Most mopeds prefer to weave through pedestrians rather than wait with the rest of the traffic.

There are plenty of marked pedestrian crossings in Korea, and they are essentially ignored by all drivers. As a foreigner you can use them by stepping onto the crossing and directly staring down any approaching cars and they will usually yield. It is important for you to stay alert while crossing the roads. Taxis, buses, freight trucks, and delivery scooters are more likely to ignore traffic rules, since many of them are pressured to ignore rules by harsh timetables or their customers.

Illegal taxis

Illegal taxis are a problem and run even from the airport. Each Korean city has a different taxi scheme with a specific car color, so check out your destination city's taxi scheme before you arrive. At the airport, ignore anyone asking if you want a taxi at arrivals and head out to the official taxi rank.

Civil unrest

In the heart of the political center of Seoul, near Gwanghwamun and City Hall, you may witness political activists of one sort or another in the city center and demonstrations can grow to tens of thousands. You'll have to use discretion as violence during political demonstrations can happen, often with water cannons and tear gas, and also large crowds may pose safety issues. Fighting is always between the demonstrators and police, and foreigners are not targeted. Also, South Korean legislation prohibits non-South Koreans from engaging in political activities.

Local laws

South Korea has a draconian National Security Act (국가보안법, Gukga Boanbeop) that restricts any unauthorized contact with North Korea and its citizens. North Korean slogans, symbols, stamps, propaganda, websites, and literature are strictly prohibited in the country. Foreigners are not exempted from this law — a Chinese student who expressed pro-North Korean views on the Internet was prosecuted and deported from South Korea in 2014.

Gambling

Gambling is illegal for South Korean citizens, although a limited number of casinos are available for foreigners only in Seoul, Busan and Jeju island. You will need to bring your passport to enter these establishments.

Wildlife

Asian Giant Hornet

The Asian giant hornet (장수말벌, jangsu malbeol) or "commander bee" is usually seen around summer time; it is about 40 mm (1.6 in) long and can sting repeatedly and painfully. A hornet defending its nest or feeding spot will make a clicking sound to warn away intruders; if you encounter one, retreat. If you are stung, receive prompt medical attention, as prolonged exposure to the venom could cause permanent injury or even death.

There are very few other animals that can be dangerous in Korea. The Siberian tiger is sadly no longer found on the Korean Peninsula. Large wild boars can sometimes be found in forested areas and can be very dangerous if they attack. If you see a boar with piglets then keep well away since the mother will not hesitate to protect them.

Large sharks including the great white and hammerhead are being sighted more frequently off the coast of South Korea. To date there has never been a recorded attack on swimmers, although a few abalone divers have been killed in the past 20 years. The most popular beaches are closely monitored, and this is unlikely to be a real risk to you.

Stray cats are still common, and it is advisable to avoid them - they can scratch and bite.

Natural hazards

South Korea is considerably less prone to natural disasters than its neighbors. Earthquakes are rare occurrences, though minor ones occasionally occur in the southwest of the country. Tsunamis are a recognized hazard in coastal areas, although Japan's strategic position prevents most tsunamis from ever reaching Korea. While typhoons do not occur as often as in Japan, Taiwan or the Philippines, they are nevertheless an almost yearly occurrence, and are occasionally known to be deadly and cause major property damage.

Homosexuality

Although same-sex relationships are not recognized by the government, there are no laws against homosexuality in South Korea. Gay clubs and bars exist in the larger cities, though openly displaying your sexual orientation in public is still likely to be met with disapproval. South Korea has a large number of Evangelical Christians who generally strongly disapprove of homosexuality. Nevertheless, verbal and physical attacks against gay people are rare.

Conversely, platonic displays of physical affection between same-sex friends are very common, particularly when alcohol has been consumed, and holding hands with a same-sex romantic partner may be viewed in this light.

Conflict with North Korea

An understandable concern about traveling to South Korea is the possibility of war. However, while war has remained a distinct possibility ever since the end of the Korean war over 60 years ago, the North Koreans appear to have become very skilled at saber-rattling and limited provocations that are never allowed to escalate into out-and-out warfare. This is not to say that miscalculations could not spiral out of control, but simply that the odd missile launch, or loudly publicized border closure does not mean war is nigh.

If a full-scale war did break out between the North and South, it would almost certainly result in many casualties, military and civilian alike. If this were to happen when you are visiting Seoul, it would definitely be life-threatening. There was a great deal of brinkmanship following the appointment of Kim Jong-un as North Korea's leader, and open conflict seemed to become more likely. However, no big conflagration has broken out, and it is safe to say that the possibility of all-out war is very low, though it would be reasonable to weigh the risks when planning to visit South Korea.

There isn't really much you can do to mitigate the risk of military action. Find out the contact details of your embassy and be aware of the current situation when traveling. Most embassies will have an evacuation strategy for their nationals in the case of war. Also be aware that Seoul's Incheon International Airport is relatively close to the North Korean border, so therefore it may not be advisable to run there looking for a flight out.

Be extra careful when visiting the Korean Demilitarized Zone. Any attempt or pretence to cross the border line into North Korea and risk putting your life, the lives of your tour group members and military personnel on both sides at risk.

Emergency numbers

• Police: 112
• Fire and ambulance services: 119

Emergency-service English interpreters are available 24 hours a day.

Stay healthy

Fan Death An urban legend that is very prevalent in (and particular to) South Korea is the danger of fan death—that is, death occurring while sleeping in a room with an operating electric fan. Many Koreans accept it as fact without being able to provide a plausible explanation, though several theories have been floated (i.e. a vortex sucking the air out of your body is one of the more surprising ones). It may surprise you a great deal how seriously this is taken, with simple fans having elaborate safety settings. The correct explanation for this condition is straightforward hyperthermia (the body overheating), which sets in if the temperature and humidity are high, the sleeper is dehydrated, and a fan close by keeps evaporating the body's sweat. Eventually the body runs out of water due to sweat loss and becomes overheated. The risk is no greater in Korea than anywhere else with similar climate.

South Korean healthcare is known for its excellence in both research and clinical medicine, and most towns will be able to offer a high quality of healthcare. The sheer number of hospitals and specialized clinics in the country will also offer you a greater amount of choice. Healthcare is subsidized by the government and is relatively cheap compared to most western countries. Expatriate workers who have the required medical insurance card will experience further discounts. South Korea also promotes medical tourism where quality operations can be had for a fraction of the price of many other developed countries.

South Korea is especially known for having a thriving plastic surgery industry, and the vast majority of South Korean celebrities have undergone cosmetic surgery to one degree or another. It is also common for parents who can afford it to pay for their daughters to go under the knife to achieve the "perfect look". The downside is that seeing the top plastic surgeons is usually very expensive.

Most South Korean doctors can communicate well in English, being the most highly educated in the country. (Indeed, many have achieved their medical qualifications in the United States.) However, you may find them a little difficult to understand due to their Korean accent, so do ask them to slow down and go through things with you clearly. On the other hand, nurses will very rarely speak much, if any, English.

Traditional Chinese medicine, along with traditional Korean medicine (한의학 hanuihak or 향약 hyangyak), is highly regarded in South Korea and involves many traditional methods including acupuncture, heating and herbal medicine. Traditional Chinese medicine has deep roots and practitioners must undergo strict government certification in order to practice. Typically Koreans use Oriental medicine for chronic ailments such as back pain and Western medicine for sudden injuries. Due to the holistic nature of Oriental medicine (i.e. treating the whole body rather than a specific ailment) it is very hard to measure its effectiveness, but nevertheless it is a widely trusted part of the Korean medical system. Western medicine, however, does not generally recognize the effectiveness of the procedures in Oriental medicine.

A Korean pharmacy, with the word 약 (Yak) prominently displayed

Pharmacies are available everywhere, and are indicated by one very large word 약 (yak). As hospitals in South Korea are not allowed to dispense take-home prescriptions there will almost always be a separate pharmacy available there.

Although there are no official vaccinations that are required or recommended for visitors, Hepatitis A is known throughout the country and attacks the liver after the host ingests contaminated food or water. Once infected, time is the only cure. The Center for Disease Control designates the prevalence of infection in South Korea to be intermediate. A vaccine is available for Hepatitis A, so you might want to consider getting vaccinated before you travel to be safe.

Tap water in South Korea is perfectly safe to drink, although you may want to follow the local habits of boiling and filtering if only to get rid of the chlorine smell. Bottled mineral water from Jeju Island is also very popular. Fresh mountain spring water is available directly in wells around the country (especially Buddhist monasteries), and although these are generally safe, the water has not been treated in any way and could be unsafe.

Spring water Koreans are especially fond of drinking mountain spring water when hiking through mountains or at monasteries, although this water is completely untreated. If you see plastic (or metal) ladles provided that are obviously in use, then the water is probably safe. Some places in Korea have communal wells set up that supply fresh water, and in theory the local government will test from time to time in order to certify the safety. The certification (or warning) will be in Korean, so you may not know if a particular water source is safe.

Cope

Media

South Korea has several English language media sources for daily news and other information, such as the Yonhap News Agency.

Daily newspapers in English include the Hankyoreh, The Korea Times, The Korea Herald and The Chosun Ilbo.

For television, there is an English-language channel called Arirang TV available throughout the world on some cable subscriptions. AFN Korea is available to U.S. military community or via cable.

There are some English-language radio stations in South Korea such as TBS e-FM (101.3 FM) and AFN channel (1530 AM and 102.7 FM in Seoul).

Respect

Naming conventions and modes of address Korean names follow the East Asian order of family name followed by given name. Someone called 홍길동 (Hong Gil Dong) has the family name Hong and the given name Gil Dong. Koreans often, but not always, preserve their East Asian name order in English. However, many Koreans have an English nickname (which may simply be the initials of their given Korean name); when using it, they will use the Western name order. When addressing other people, Koreans generally use the other person's family and given name + -ssi (씨) for most situations. Addressing someone by just their given name is only done when addressing children of elementary school age or younger, and very close friends. Using just the family name is generally not done in Korea, as Koreans consider it to be condescending, since it implies that you are talking down to someone of a lower social status. (It would also be confusing, since nearly half of all Koreans have one of the three most common family names: Kim, Lee, or Park.) Ssi is the default suffix, but others you might encounter are: -nim (님) — People above you, from bosses up to deities, as well as customers -a/-ya (아/야) — Close friends, and junior family members -gun (군) — Young boys -yang (양) — Young girls To avoid being overly formal or familiar, stick with full name + -ssi unless the person tells you otherwise. In business settings, -ssi is often substituted with a job position/title, with the suffix -nim added to the back to the job position/title for people in a senior position to you. Often, the name is dropped altogether, so an employee may simply address his company's president as sajang-nim (사장님 "Honored Mr./Ms. President"). In English, it's okay to use just the family name, or family name plus initials of their given name. However, it's more proper to use their job title (even if it's a mouthful) than "Mr./Miss". Our example Hong Gil Dong from before might be called General Manager Hong, or General Manager G.D. Hong, or Mr. Hong if he's a low-level employee without a title. If unsure how to call someone, feel free to ask; even Koreans can get confused by it. They may also mix up the order of your name, referring to you as Mr. John or President Mary. (If your given name is Kim, to avoid confusion you may want to go by Kimberly/Kimball. If you're a Lee, you should perhaps use a different name.)

Coming from a land of strict Confucian hierarchy and etiquette, Koreans are regarded as reserved and well-mannered. As a visitor, you will not be expected to know every nuance, but making an effort will certainly be appreciated. The further you are away from metropolitan areas the more conservative the people are. Nevertheless, most South Koreans are welcoming towards foreign tourists, and as long as you show a modicum of respect towards their culture, will do their best to make your visit a pleasant one. American visitors can expect a particularly warm welcome, as most South Koreans admire American culture.

Social etiquette and breaches

• Much like their neighbours, Koreans place a solid emphasis on "saving face", thus, Koreans are generally indirect communicators. That being said, they tend to be a bit more straightforward and assertive than people in other East Asian countries. A "yes" doesn't mean "yes"; you have to read between the lines to figure out what someone means.
• Gestures and facial expressions are not commonly used when conversing, giving some the impression that Koreans are "stern".
• Personal appearance is very important. Korean women and men generally pay very close attention to their physical appearance. To get the most amount of respect, dress smartly and conservatively and groom yourself well.
• Koreans bow to each other to show their respect when they meet. They may also shake hands. (When shaking hands, particularly with someone older, support your right arm with your left hand.) However, with people you know well, a quick nod of the head and a simple "Annyeonghaseyo" (안녕하세요, "Hello") should suffice.
• It is very important to remove your shoes when entering many places in Korea. You are always expected to take off your shoes in someone's home. It is also required in many good restaurants (especially family-run ones), smaller hospitals, medical clinics and dentists. Leave your shoes by the front door; indoor slippers may be provided.
• It's common for Koreans to ask you personal questions. If you feel a question is too personal, answer indirectly.
• Koreans respect their elders and authority figures. If anyone in a position of authority (policeman, your superiors at work, a teacher) requests you to do something, you are expected to respect them and do it. In public transportation, you are always expected to give up your seat to someone older than you. Remember to compose yourself and behave maturely around those much older than you; elders and authority figures generally don't take kindly to being spoken to or addressed inappropriately.
• When picking something up or taking something from somebody older, always use two hands. If you have to use one hand, you can support your right arm with your left hand.
• South Korean households often have strict rules about recycling: for example, one bin may be for paper only and another in the kitchen may be for food/drink containers. Each district in Korea has its own unique recycling scheme. Garbage bags must be purchased from a supermarket and must be of the type designated for your local community.
• Never pour your drink when dining with Koreans, but always take the initiative to pour for others. When dining with Koreans, the oldest or most senior should always eat first.
• It is common to hear people talking loudly in restaurants as a sign of being happy and enjoying the food.
• Do not be surprised or taken aback if your Korean counterpart subtly denies praise or compliments coming from you. Koreans believe that denying a compliment shows humility and modesty. If you compliment a Korean, expect them to say "anieyo" (아니에요, "No"), "geureon malsseum maseyo" (그런 말씀 마세요, "Please don't say that"), or a variation thereof. Don't say "thank you" to a compliment.

Sensitive issues

Pride in the nation forms one of the key pillars of Korean culture. Saying what you like about the country might get you on someone's good side, while criticism of the country by a foreigner is likely to elicit a hostile response from Koreans.

Koreans are neither Chinese nor Japanese; they are a separate people with a unique culture, and will be deeply offended if you confuse them for anything else.

Avoid talking about North Korea. Relations between the two Koreas are incredibly tense: praising or talking positively about North Korea will engender strong reactions from people. On the other hand, do not criticize North Korea either, as its people are still regarded as fellow Koreans, and you are a foreigner.

There is significant ongoing friction with Japan because of the country's wars with and occupation by Japan, especially with the status of comfort women.

Cultural and historiographical disputes with China can be a sensitive issue, and South Koreans often accuse China of appropriating Korean history and culture, such as cuisine and clothes. This is further complicated by the fact that China today has territory that was part of historical Korean kingdoms, and a large ethnic Korean minority. Protests about these are generally less vocal than contemporary issues with Japan however.

Business etiquette

Business cards (명함 myeongham) in particular are treated very respectfully and formally. How you treat someone's business card is seen as representing how you will treat the person. Make sure to pack more than you'll need, as not having a business card to present is a serious faux pas. There's a lot of nuanced etiquette, but here are some basics:

• When presenting a business card, orient it so it's readable by the person you're giving it to, and use both hands to present or receive one. Juniors give their cards to seniors first; people of equal rank can exchange simultaneously using your right hand to give yours and left hand to receive theirs. Take the time to read the card and confirm their name and job title. (Korean business cards are often bilingual, sometimes on opposite sides of the card.)

• You can ask permission to write notes on the back of a card if you need to. It's disrespectful to fold a card or place it in your back pocket (where you'll sit on it!). Instead, you should arrange cards on the table (in order of seniority) to help you remember who's who. When it's time to leave, then you can pack the cards in a nice case to keep them pristine; if you don't have one, hold on to them until you're out of sight before pocketing them.

National issues

Given the long history of unwanted intervention in Korea by foreign nations, Koreans are understandably rather sensitive about political discussions. You should avoid discussing the following topics since they are never going to achieve anything but getting you onto someone's bad side:

• Japan's annexation and brutal colonization of Korea until 1945. In particular, do not display the Rising Sun Flag, such as on your t-shirt or badge on your backpack.
• Japan's perceived lack of sufficient recognition and apology over the sexual enslavement of Korean "comfort women" during World War II
• Japan's recurring territorial claims over the South Korean island of Dokdo
• The Korean war and anything to do with North Korea
• Bad behavior of individual members of the United States military stationed in South Korea
• Any deference of the South Korean military towards the United States military
• Any international sporting controversies where South Korean athletes are involved
• Do not refer to the sea east of South Korea as the "Sea of Japan" (even though this is by far the most accepted name internationally). Always refer to it as the "East Sea" (동해 Donghae).
• Domestic politics — as elsewhere in the world presently, Korean politics is bitterly divided between left and right. Many of the ideological issues are however quite different from those you may be familiar with in your home country, and Koreans generally do not take kindly to foreigners commenting about their domestic politics, even if your views happen to align with theirs.

Should your hosts bring any such topics up, it is best to just listen and avoid any debates.

Religion

Religion in South Korea has changed a great deal over time, with today's main religions of Buddhism and Christianity both having been oppressed over the past centuries. Today just under half of Koreans state that they have no religious affiliation. There are practically no tensions at all between the different groups, with religion being usually regarded as a personal choice.

Buddhism was historically the main religion in Korea (albeit often suppressed in favor of Confucianism), and Buddhist temples are major tourist attractions throughout the country. As in India, China, and other countries there are Buddhist swastikas representing good luck on display at religious buildings. You will notice they are actually drawn in reverse to the one used in Nazi Germany, and they in no way represent antisemitism. When visiting Buddhist temples you should be respectful by not making too much noise, eating or drinking.

South Korea has a high proportion of Christians (18% of the population are Protestant and 11% are Roman Catholic) and dozens of churches can be found in absolutely every major city. Protestants in South Korea tend to be strongly conservative and frequently highly evangelical, sending a large number of missionaries abroad (rivaling the United States in this regard). Catholics often combine elements of Buddhism, Confucianism and Korean shamanism into their faith. South Korea is also home to a myriad of new religions based on Christianity (such as the Unification Church), which may be deemed as controversial sects or cults or as apostasy or a heresy by others. It is common for both strangers and acquaintances to ask you to come to their church, although offense will not usually be taken if you decline.

Korean Shamanism, also known as Muism, is the indigenous religion of the Korean people since ancient times. Although it is professed by less than 1% of South Koreans today, its practices and beliefs are known to most and to some extent still practiced by many people, having been incorporated into both Christian and Buddhist rituals.

Confucianism was often promoted as the state ideology during Korea's history, and although it is not as strictly adhered to as in the past, the majority of Koreans will be familiar with its teachings and practices, and even today government officials are still required to sit Confucian examinations.

Smoking

While smoking in South Korea is not quite as popular as in Japan or China, many Korean men and an increasing number of South Korean women smoke, and it's fairly cheap compared to much of Europe and America. A pack of twenty costs around ₩5,000 and cigarettes can be bought from all convenience stores. Koreans favor mild cigarettes (around 6 mg tar) so Korean-made cigarettes may taste bland and flavorless compared to those from America or Europe, and even the South Korean-produced Western cigarettes are much lighter than the originals (e.g., full-strength Marlboro Reds in South Korea have only 8 mg tar, the same as Marlboro Lights in the U.S.). If you prefer stronger cigarettes, it's wise to bring some duty-free cigarettes with you.

Smoking is forbidden in public buildings, public transport and restaurants. Various establishments will tacitly allow smoking despite the ban, although they will never explicitly tell you that you can smoke, for fear of legal repercussions. Smoking in public is also banned, but this is largely unenforced and designated smoking areas are sparse.

Dedicated smoking rooms can be found around transport hubs and other large buildings.

Female smokers may give a negative impression to some Koreans, as smoking is not considered feminine here.

Connect

By phone

For calls to South Korea, the country code is +82. International dialing prefixes in South Korea vary by operator.

Mobile phones

See also: Mobile phones

South Korea shut down its last 2G network in 2021, so 2G (GSM or CDMA) mobile phones do not work. However, if you have a 3G phone with a 3G SIM card, you can probably roam onto the UMTS/W-CDMA 2100 networks of KT or SK Telecom; check with your home operator before you leave to be sure. 4G LTE has been made available in Korea; again, check with your provider. While 5G is also becoming available, providers have only so far made it available to select postpaid plans or inbound roaming agreements; prepaid users purchasing a local SIM in South Korea will not have access to 5G (as of August 2021).

The country has three service providers: KT, SK Telecom and LG U+. They offer prepaid mobile phone services ("pre-paid service" or "PPS"). Incoming calls are free. Phones and prepaid services can be acquired at any retail location found on any street (for Koreans). Second-hand phones are also available at selected stores in Seoul.

Mobile phone coverage is generally excellent, with the exception of some remote mountainous areas. SK Telecom has the best coverage, followed by KT and LG U+.

As a foreigner without Korean residency your choices are:

• Buy a prepaid SIM card from a KT Global or airport provider store
• Rent a phone from an airport (expensive — best for short visits)
• Using roaming on your phone if available from your home provider
• Borrow a phone from a Korean resident
• Have a Korean resident acquire another SIM card and lend it to you
• Use Internet telephony (e.g. Skype) over the many Wi-Fi spots available

You should be able to get a prepaid SIM card at one of the KT Global locations. Due to a loosening of the regulations, there is no longer a requirement that you have been in the country for 3 days already; you can apply for a prepaid SIM immediately upon arrival. The fee for a prepaid SIM card is ₩5,500, and you have to charge at least ₩10,000 at the spot. You must also have a compatible phone. All modern iPhones (3GS and later) should work.

SK Telecom and LG also offer mobile phone rental services, and some handsets also support GSM SIM roaming. They have outlets at the Incheon, Seoul–Gimpo and Busan–Gimhae airports. You can find service centers for KT SHOW and SK Telecom at Jeju airport as well.

You can rent a 4G WiBro device between ₩5,000–10,000 a day for unlimited access, although coverage is not always available outside larger cities and in enclosed areas.

The 1330 Korea Travel Phone service is a very useful service provided by the Korea Tourism organization. It is a 24-hour service and offered in four different languages (Korean, English, Japanese, and Chinese). The operator will answer questions on bus schedules, accommodation, museum hours, etc.

The internationally popular messaging app WhatsApp is not popular in South Korea. Most South Koreans use the local app KaKaoTalk instead.

By Internet

A PC bang in Seoul

South Korea is the world's most wired country and Internet cafes, known as PC bang (PC방), are ubiquitous through the country. PC shops are becoming more than just a place to go online and play games, they're becoming a place to eat. In fact, you'll be hard-pressed to find a food item you don't want to order, whether it's ramen, snacks, or burgers, as well as rice bowls, grilled pork belly, tonkatsu, or tteokbokki. You usually top up your card with a voucher for a PC through an unmanned terminal, and for food, you order through a message installed on your computer. Nowadays, you can also use Kakao Pay to pay with a QR code.

In addition, smoking is not allowed in PCCs, and you can only smoke in designated smoking rooms.

There is also a lot of free Wi-Fi available throughout South Korea.

Most households in South Korea do have broadband connections with Wi-Fi, and most are encrypted by default.

ollehWiFi is one of the most common Wi-Fi hotspots available and requires payment. The service is fast (30Mbps+) and prices are cheap at ₩1,100/hour or ₩3,300/day. You can buy the service on your device by credit card, or by cash or card in most convenience stores. ollehWiFi is available at most convenient stores, coffee shops, some marts, restaurants, intercity buses, and on all subways and subway stations in the Seoul Metropolitan Area.

The Starbucks Coffee chain also offers Wi-Fi, however you will require a South Korean phone number to use it. Many other coffee shops offer free Wi-Fi with no registration required. ollehWiFi should also be available in all Starbucks stores.

South Korean websites frequently require Windows and Microsoft Internet Explorer, especially those involving online payment. As elsewhere in Asia, a lot of services are becoming available primarily for mobile phones, with Kakao Talk being the most popular.

Especially in South Korea, free public Wi-Fi is available everywhere, thanks to wireless routers installed on public transportation. However, it's best to avoid doing security-critical work on public transportation or public Wi-Fi in public facilities.

By mail

Korea Post is fast, reliable and reasonably priced. Postage for a postcard anywhere in the world is ₩660, while letters and packages start from ₩480. If you want actual traditional stamps, be sure to ask for them, or else you will just get a printed label. On request, fancy "tourist" cancellations (Gwangwang Tongsin Ilbuin) for your stamps are available at selected post offices without additional charge. Korea Post accepts Visa and MasterCard for purchases over ₩1,000.

From October 01, 2014, it was changed from an old address unique to a "Road or Street Name"(Road Addresses) address. "Postal Code Finder by Korea Goverment Finder Site" , Most post offices are open only M-F 09:00-18:00.

Larger post offices also open Saturday mornings, and central offices in the main cities stay open late and are open on Sundays as well.